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Hello Jim,
I`m glad I was helpful.
On your comments about taking out the big capacitors, I can't be more glad that you didn't have problems. you're either very lucky, or very, very good with the solder sucker (or both).
I had to do the same on mine, I consider myself very good at desoldering using a solder sucker and always did this kind of job on double-sided, through-hole plated boards without hassle... and I had a real bad time taking mine out.
I lifted at least 3 or four pads from the capacitor side, and stripped out an equal number of through-hole vias.
It was a real pain to put it back together, without having to make ugly wire jumpers. (I used tiny bits of component leads and wires, to make back the connections between both sides, using the available space around the capacitor pins, sometimes making the pins a bit thinner, to make room for the interconnecting wires inside the holes.
Nevertheless, since you mentioned that you had to wiggle them a little bit for them to come out, I recommend you make a careful inspection of all the through-hole vias and make sure they're in good shape.
The adhesive that sticks the copper to the board on those ancient boards are not top notch compared to modern boards and they won't stand a second desoldering session so, you don't want to be forced to take them out once again, just because you overlooked some through-hole via.

Regarding your question about C1713 (couldn't find a C1712), when I got my 464 on 2016, this one was already replaced by an aluminum electro (of 25V).
This fact gives room for assumption that the original Tantalum of 25V failed in that position, and I wouldn't hesitate in shuffling a 35V tantalum, or even a regular aluminum electrolytic there.
However, in face of the majority of other Tant caps that are infamous for failing in those scopes (of which Tek sometimes would use a 15V cap on a 15V rail), this one spec'd at 25V is not so badly spec'd after all.
This winding of the transformer seems to be something about 10Vac, and it puts just about 14V (rectified) across this capacitor so, I think that even 25V there will do fine but, if you can fit a 35V capacitor there, it's the best case scenario.
Ah... in time... if what you're worried about this, is that it's a 25V cap on a +140V supply (actually +154 unreg)... no fears... it's hooked to the +140V supply at its negative side so, it only "sees" the difference (which is about 14V).

Rgrds,

Fabio