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Re: Help with 24x5B processor board A5 and option 5 timer trigger


 

I plan to replace the MUX (U2530) this weekend and wonder if I can put solder mask on the guard traces between signal pins?? I would use Circuit Works CW2500 epoxy which is good to 350 C.? I cant think of any downside and it would help avoid solder shorts.? The guard traces are very close to the signal pins and shorts mean rework with solder braid.? 14 pins at this pitch are sure to get one that needs touch up.?
I haven't decided yet whether I will do hand soldering or hot air.? I purchased a griddle at Walmart for $18.00 to act as a preheater and calibrated it with my IR temperature meter.? Its easy to hold the temperature around 170 C.? I will use a hand held fan to cool the board after soldering and before lifting it off the griddle so I don't temperature shock the board.? But I may loose my nerve and just hand solder the new part.? Either way, I think solder mask over the guard traces would help keep the solder from overflowing.

On ?Monday?, ?April? ?23?, ?2018? ?09?:?02?:?08? ?AM? ?CDT, Chuck Harris <cfharris@...> wrote:

As I said, you must heat the bottom of the board
to 100-150C.? This is well below the solder melt
temperature, and cool enough that it won't damage
parts.? Then when you use your hot air, you can
keep its temperature throttled back to 300-350C,
and you will only have to heat the joint for a
couple of seconds.

When you try to do all the heating and melting with
just hot air at the top of the board, you have to
way overheat the parts to get the solder to melt.

The underboard heater doesn't have to be anything
fancy, it could be a hot plate made to warm your
coffee cup.

I use a commercial product, which cost about $100,
and has temperature control.? Search: quartz under
board heater.

I also use a beaker stirrer that has a temperature
controlled heater.? With that I can even reflow
smaller boards.

A teflon coated frying pan, or griddle, would work
too.. you will have to do something to throttle
the heat down, and the sides get in the way.

If you must use a soldering iron, use something
with a chisel tip, and lots of flux.? You can wipe
the tip over the leads.

-Chuck Harris

machineguy59 via Groups.Io wrote:
? Thank you.? I have the right jumpers in the right place.? I also found a J103 on the schematic and put a jumper on it as shown on the schematic.? The scope now powers on without incident except the trace vertical positions, and intensity knobs do not change trace position or intensity.? I am using the screen bias adjustment as an intensity control.
I am resigned to the idea that my soldering technique cooked the new MUX (U2530) when I installed it.? That has never happened to me before.? So I am planning a new method to hand solder U2530 with a temperature controlled, 1 mm tip soldering iron.? Using 63/37 tin/lead solder and a temperature of 270 degrees.? I am considering high temperature epoxy to coat the guard traces between each pin of U2530.? Ordinarily, this would be overkill but I want to be certain the package is not damaged this time.? Comments?

? ? On ?Monday?, ?April? ?23?, ?2018? ?01?:?49?:?48? ?AM? ?CDT, satbeginner <castellcorunas@...> wrote:

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