Those particular caps are pretty durable and well-made, so not very likely to just open up on their own, as many others do. Before replacement, I'd advise checking the input bridge rectifier too, to make sure it hasn't shorted, which can take out the caps, or vice versa. I had that happen on a 7904, which I think uses the same parts in that section - the rectifier and one of the big caps were shot - I'm pretty sure the rectifier went first.
I happened to have a couple of spare caps, so it was easy to get going again. I did save the husk of the bad one for restuffing if ever necessary. This is easy to do, as long as you can find a newer type cap that can fit inside the original can. Besides having at least the same voltage rating, and similar capacitance, also consider the ripple current rating - this should be no problem since newer types are usually better in all respects.
In the case of these "computer style" cans, unlike with the twist-lock types, you have to modify the base to provide solderable connection points inside. I found it easiest to just drill and tap (#4-40) through the rest of the depth of the aluminum screw posts, and attach solder lugs inside - the external #10-32 screws remain the same. This way, the electrical and mechanical connections are the same as before, for board-mounting. For clamp mounting, you can instead use pigtail leads passed through an extra hole drilled in the base.
Ed
