I bought a 5113 that had one of the caps bad ¨C almost open, but no leakage that I could see.
I was able to remove the cap using a diagonal cutter on one leg, and a carefully placed hacksaw blade (only) between the cap body and the circuit board. Once the body was removed, I removed the tabs from the circuit board with a regular soldering iron and solder wick. I don¡¯t remember which polarity of the power supply was bad in this scope.
I found a much smaller Panasonic replacement cap from Digi-Key. The replacement has a pair of through hole radial leads, which needed to be bent outwards to fit the wider hole spacing on the board.
You scored well with the 5L4. They seem to be somewhat rare, or perhaps for users doing audio work, which does not have its frequency range growing as technology moves on, their old 5L4N continues to work fine, so they don¡¯t end up in the surplus market.
Steve
---In TekScopes@..., <edbreya@...> wrote :
Yes, as I recall, it's a real PITA to get at those caps. I think your option to add parallel caps may be best, if there's room to fit them and the extra wiring in there. If the old caps haven't already leaked, but are electrically open or high-Z, then I doubt they ever will leak - the guts are essentially disconnected from the outside world. They usually fail due to chemical disintegration of the tabs that connect the capacitor slug to the can or the terminal lugs. The actual cap element is often still like new inside, but disconnected.
Ed
