Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
The original pennants were wire, I think 7x7 but maybe 7x19. ? Either way they have a minimum bending radius which is significantly greater that the diameter of the smaller (wire side) spindle on the centerboard winch drum, which is why they fail: they¡¯re regularly wound too tight. ? To the point about the Dyneema pennant and chafing, be aware that New England Ropes makes a Dyneema chafe sleeve. ? When I replaced the wire pennant, which was nothing but meathooks, I used a Dyneema pennant, encased in a NER Dyneema sleeve. ? At a minimum it should buy me some longevity. ? It¡¯s important to secure both ends of the sleeve; I sewed it through the pennant. ?If you don¡¯t, and the top end of the sleeve slips down past the bronze fitting atop the centerboard trunk, the sleeve will bunch up inside the trunk with the actual pennant running through it, forming a bellows and prevent you from raising the board fully. ?AMHIK. ? ??
-----Original Message-----
From: jeremy@...
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Apr 18, 2022 11:51 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
While you are monkeying about with that bit -- you should be aware that the fairlead has a tendency to rub on the aft portion of the pipe and can saw through it over time. In the battle between bronze and stainless steel, the stainless steel will win everytime.
You should see if that problem exists on your particular boat.
This photo album is incomplete, but you can see the damage that was done and some of the repairs,
I inserted a tube in the existing tube to reinforce it. I strengthened the existing tube connection to the hull with some additional fiberglass. And, not shown at all, I created a plug with a hole in the middle that goes in the hose to try to keep the fairlead cable better centered to minimize rubbing on the fairlead pipe.
Other people have replaced the fairlead cable with dyneema, since the dyneema is unlikely to saw through the bronze.. Dyneema is plenty strong, but sensitive to abrasion. So if you are in the great lakes where hard growth is not a big issue, that can work. If you are someplace where barnacles are likely to grow, you might find that they slice up a dyneema fairlead.
Another thing to be concerned about is the point further forward where the centerboard pivots. The centerboard can rust through there and the whole centerboard can fall off. Unfortunately, inspecting that is a major pain because you need to drop the centerboard to inspect it. That means you need to have the boat blocked up high enough to lower the centerboard all the way, and done in a way that does not block the centerboard trunk. And then after you inspect it, you have to get it in place and get the holes aligned to reinsert the pin. That last bit usually takes me more than an hour (sadly, I had to do it twice during a single haul out).
Honestly, if you are going to inspect the centerboard, I would simply expect it to be a big project where you have to lower it, do some significant repairs to it and repaint it, create a new centerboard pin, and then reinstall it. Because it is annoying to inspect, people seldom do. Though you mentioned you are on good terms with the previous owner -- so you can ask when they last inspected it (if ever).
- jeremy
Hey all, just picked up a 66 Tartan 27. Already love it but noticed the area where the cable for center board fits through was loose and actually not sealed.. glad I noticed before the splash. Anyway I can¡¯t seem to find out the best solution for fixing. I was thinking just pushing the metal sleeve back through the hull and using 4200 to seal her up. Would love a more permanent solution. Any help appreciated!? 
|
Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
While you are monkeying about with that bit -- you should be aware that the fairlead has a tendency to rub on the aft portion of the pipe and can saw through it over time. In the battle between bronze and stainless steel, the stainless steel will win everytime.
You should see if that problem exists on your particular boat.
This photo album is incomplete, but you can see the damage that was done and some of the repairs, I inserted a tube in the existing tube to reinforce it. I strengthened the existing tube connection to the hull with some additional fiberglass. And, not shown at all, I created a plug with a hole in the middle that goes in the hose to try to keep the fairlead cable better centered to minimize rubbing on the fairlead pipe. Other people have replaced the fairlead cable with dyneema, since the dyneema is unlikely to saw through the bronze.. Dyneema is plenty strong, but sensitive to abrasion. So if you are in the great lakes where hard growth is not a big issue, that can work. If you are someplace where barnacles are likely to grow, you might find that they slice up a dyneema fairlead. Another thing to be concerned about is the point further forward where the centerboard pivots. The centerboard can rust through there and the whole centerboard can fall off. Unfortunately, inspecting that is a major pain because you need to drop the centerboard to inspect it. That means you need to have the boat blocked up high enough to lower the centerboard all the way, and done in a way that does not block the centerboard trunk. And then after you inspect it, you have to get it in place and get the holes aligned to reinsert the pin. That last bit usually takes me more than an hour (sadly, I had to do it twice during a single haul out). Honestly, if you are going to inspect the centerboard, I would simply expect it to be a big project where you have to lower it, do some significant repairs to it and repaint it, create a new centerboard pin, and then reinstall it. Because it is annoying to inspect, people seldom do. Though you mentioned you are on good terms with the previous owner -- so you can ask when they last inspected it (if ever). - jeremy
Hey all, just picked up a 66 Tartan 27. Already love it but noticed the area where the cable for center board fits through was loose and actually not sealed.. glad I noticed before the splash. Anyway I can¡¯t seem to find out the best solution for fixing. I was thinking just pushing the metal sleeve back through the hull and using 4200 to seal her up. Would love a more permanent solution. Any help appreciated!? 
|
Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
I don't actually know if my hanging-on-by-a-thread thru-hulls where 3M
4200/5200, but Daniel probably doesn't know either. If the boat has
been out of water for a long time, that's a lot of time (probably)
polysulphide has been seeing 80-90F temps instead of much cooler water
temps. "Your Mileage May Vary" goes back to at least 1991 Usenet and
still seems to hold. Up to Daniel to decide what he's concerned about
and what he isn't, but there's wisdom in dealing with things while
you're on the hard that you are concerned about instead of suddenly
deciding later that you should have, and this is a fairly easy thing.
It's definitely true that most things are probably fine. I've jumped
on and sailed with new sailors who just bought a boat, and had no idea
what shape she was in. Usually the brand new skipper is a much larger
liability than the boat, no matter how gnarled the boat. So, tl;dr,
this is an opportunity to deal that now if you might later decide you
should have done it now. I definitely often take solace in the
thought that "well, she's survived this long, this is probably ok",
especially when waves are breaking over the deck and the rigging is
whistling.
Cheers,
-scott
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 4/18/22, wrsteinesq@... <wrsteinesq@...> wrote: Certainly, fair points. ?And we ARE talking about holes in the bottom of the
boat. ?My reply was intended to address the more specific point Scott
raised, that of things specifically bedded in 4200/5200. ? My experience may
be different from others, but I have been unable to separate 5200 bonds I
know I made in the early 1980s, when they were more than 30 years old.
YMMV.
-----Original Message-----
From: jeremy@...
To: [email protected]
Cc: scrottie@... <scrottie@...>
Sent: Mon, Apr 18, 2022 10:36 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
On Mon, Apr 18, 2022 at 7:34 AM Warren Stein via groups.io
<wrsteinesq@...> wrote:
As to the 4200/5200 comments, I¡¯d say first, how would you know? ? Or at
least, how would you know without trying to remove them?? I¡¯m personally
unaware of there being a longevity problem with either of those two
products.
I think the point is to rebed anything that would typically be bedded with a
compound like 4200. It doesn't matter what was actually used -- only that
you do not know when it was last done or how good of a job they did. Those
products do last a long time, but not forever, and there are not that many
things to rebed. So, you might as well do it and then not have to worry
about it for another decade.
- jeremy
|
Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
Certainly, fair points. ?And we ARE talking about holes in the bottom of the boat. ?My reply was intended to address the more specific point Scott raised, that of things specifically bedded in 4200/5200. ? My experience may be different from others, but I have been unable to separate 5200 bonds I know I made in the early 1980s, when they were more than 30 years old. ? YMMV.
-----Original Message-----
From: jeremy@...
To: [email protected]
Cc: scrottie@... <scrottie@...>
Sent: Mon, Apr 18, 2022 10:36 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
On Mon, Apr 18, 2022 at 7:34 AM Warren Stein via <wrsteinesq= [email protected]> wrote:
As to the 4200/5200 comments, I¡¯d say first, how would you know? ? Or at least, how would you know without trying to remove them?? I¡¯m personally unaware of there being a longevity problem with either of those two products.
I think the point is to rebed anything that would typically be bedded with a compound like 4200. It doesn't matter what was actually used -- only that you do not know when it was last done or how good of a job they did. Those products do last a long time, but not forever, and there are not that many things to rebed. So, you might as well do it and then not have to worry about it for another decade.
|
Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
On Mon, Apr 18, 2022 at 7:34 AM Warren Stein via <wrsteinesq= [email protected]> wrote:
As to the 4200/5200 comments, I¡¯d say first, how would you know? ? Or at least, how would you know without trying to remove them?? I¡¯m personally unaware of there being a longevity problem with either of those two products.
I think the point is to rebed anything that would typically be bedded with a compound like 4200. It doesn't matter what was actually used -- only that you do not know when it was last done or how good of a job they did. Those products do last a long time, but not forever, and there are not that many things to rebed. So, you might as well do it and then not have to worry about it for another decade.
- jeremy
|
Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
5200 does last a long time. The recommendation to rebed every 10
years seems to be well on the conservative side. But it does turn to
chalk eventually. On #93, when I got around to the cockpit scupper
thru-hulls, which were already not original (large plastic
thru-hulls), I barely touched the retaining nuts and the thru-hulls
rotated freely. The 4200/5200/whatever polysulphide sealant that was
hanging on was only the top part of what was in the hull. All of the
sealant behind the outside flange of the thru-hull was wet dust.
I'm sure the hot California summers are a big part of that. You can
walk around and just see masts sticking out of the water in slips.
Things like this get sent out to the Cal Sailing Club discussion list
now and then:
Probably fine, and different people relate to maintenance and risk
differently. Sometimes ideas of maintenance to do while you're on the
hard is helpful, sometimes not.
Agreed on bronze. The Tartan 27 Handbook suggests replacing original
bronze on account of reports of catastrophic failure from
de-zincification of the original bronze, but if the original bronze
was replaced at some point, keep using that.
How alarmist to be is an un-solvable question. Different people have
different levels of concern and attention for dealing with stuff. A
lot of people happily sail for many years and then sell the boat
without ever thinking about it. I'm not going to stop mentioning
thru-hulls as something to maybe think about given an opportunity to
address it, when you have no idea how long ago it was last redone, tho
=) In this case, it seems maybe she's a wee bit due, looking at those
pics.
Daniel, I'd gladly kick back a beer with you, but be warned, old man
opinions are not a scarce commodity =)
Cheers,
-scott
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 4/18/22, wrsteinesq@... <wrsteinesq@...> wrote: First, congrats on the boat! While I would agree with Scott regarding
assuming the worst, I might not be quite as categorical. Bronze fittings,
if they¡¯re of good quality, last for many decades; that¡¯s a main reason
they¡¯re used. The telltale sign of being too far gone is a pinkish cast to
them. That¡¯s usually caused by the bronze de-zincifying, usually caused by
galvanic corrosion. If they¡¯re headed that way, then yes, by all means,
replace them. But if not, and they appear in all ways sound, I¡¯m not sure
that removing them just because they¡¯re old is really necessary.
As to the 4200/5200 comments, I¡¯d say first, how would you know? Or at
least, how would you know without trying to remove them? I¡¯m personally
unaware of there being a longevity problem with either of those two
products. And as to the 5200, well, there¡¯s a reason it¡¯s called ¡°The
Devil¡¯s Glue.¡± I can¡¯t recall where, but somebody markets a solvent for
it, but without that, good luck removing anything bedded in 5200. But I
have also read that Tartan DID use plain pipe just fiberglassed into the
hull for certain applications, i.e. NOT a thru-hull, just a glassed-in pipe.
That¡¯s bad enough, but since it¡¯s almost impossible to find small bronze,
as opposed to brass, pipe, if you found any of those, I¡¯d suspect they might
be brass, and yeah, they should go and be replaced with a proper thru-hull.
I¡¯d also add to your checklist, the rudderpost heel fitting, all the way
down there at the bottom. I have encountered one which was not only
extremely worn, making for a lot of sloppiness; but was also cracked all
along one side! The rudder and its post are pretty heavy, and if that
heel fitting ever gave way, I wouldn¡¯t count on the tiller fitting being
tight enough to keep it attached to the boat, and ooops, there goes your
rudder.
Warren Stein, Hull No. 90, Seanachie
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Walters <scrottie@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Apr 18, 2022 7:53 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
Welcome to the list, and congrats on the boat!
Should have mentioned it to Christopher as well but the forum has a
little database feature, and there's an "Owners list" in there:
/g/T27Owners/table?id=14720
Please feel free to add yourself and your boat (I'm 1965 hull #93).
There's going to be an echo in here, but fiberglass epoxy layout.
Gently sand the bronze to get the oxide off (I keep a roll of
plumber's sandpaper cloth handy... the cloth backing makes it a lot
easier to use for hand sanding on fussy handles) and expose and rough
up fiberglass on the top of the centerboard trunk for at least a few
inches around. Scrape or grind off the old filler used to seal that.
Clean up particles with a clean rag and solvent, then do some
fiberglass and epoxy layup, maybe to 1/4" thick, going between the
trunk and pipe, replacing whatever was there (polyester filler
maybe?).
Since you're currently on the hard, it's a good chance to remove
thru-hulls you don't want and rebed ones you do. If you don't know
when that was last done, assume the worst. Original bronze should be
replaced and anything bedded with 4200/5200 should be rebedded. It's
also a chance to service the stuffing box I guess (still have a
dripless seal, which requires more maintenance and is even more
impossible to service on the water). Apologies if this is something
you're already well aware of.
Cheers,
-scott
On 4/17/22, dfeatherstone90@... <dfeatherstone90@...> wrote:
Hey all, just picked up a 66 Tartan 27. Already love it but noticed the
area
where the cable for center board fits through was loose and actually not
sealed.. glad I noticed before the splash. Anyway I can¡¯t seem to find
out
the best solution for fixing. I was thinking just pushing the metal
sleeve
back through the hull and using 4200 to seal her up. Would love a more
permanent solution. Any help appreciated!
|
Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
Thanks for the info here! I need to get my materials and strategy mapped out but this is very helpful!?
On Mon, Apr 18, 2022 at 8:34 AM Warren Stein via <wrsteinesq= [email protected]> wrote:
First, congrats on the boat!? While I would agree with Scott regarding assuming the worst, I might not be quite as categorical. ? Bronze fittings, if they¡¯re of good quality, last for many decades; that¡¯s a main reason they¡¯re used. ? The telltale sign of being too far gone is a pinkish cast to them.? That¡¯s usually caused by the bronze de-zincifying, usually caused by galvanic corrosion.? If they¡¯re headed that way, then yes, by all means, replace them. ? But if not, and they appear in all ways sound, I¡¯m not sure that removing them just because they¡¯re old is really necessary.?
As to the 4200/5200 comments, I¡¯d say first, how would you know? ? Or at least, how would you know without trying to remove them?? I¡¯m personally unaware of there being a longevity problem with either of those two products.? And as to the 5200, well, there¡¯s a reason it¡¯s called ¡°The Devil¡¯s Glue.¡± ? I can¡¯t recall where, but somebody markets a solvent for it, but without that, good luck removing anything bedded in 5200.? But I have also read that Tartan DID use plain pipe just fiberglassed into the hull for certain applications, i.e. NOT a thru-hull, just a glassed-in pipe. ? That¡¯s bad enough, but since it¡¯s almost impossible to find small bronze, as opposed to brass, pipe, if you found any of those, I¡¯d suspect they might be brass, and yeah, they should go and be replaced with a proper thru-hull. ??
I¡¯d also add to your checklist, the rudderpost heel fitting, all the way down there at the bottom. ? I have encountered one which was not only extremely worn, making for a lot of sloppiness; but was also cracked all along one side! ? ?The rudder and its post are pretty heavy, and if that heel fitting ever gave way, I wouldn¡¯t count on the tiller fitting being tight enough to keep it attached to the boat, and ooops, there goes your rudder. ?
Warren Stein, Hull No. 90, Seanachie
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Walters < scrottie@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Apr 18, 2022 7:53 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
Welcome to the list, and congrats on the boat! Should have mentioned it to Christopher as well but the forum has a little database feature, and there's an "Owners list" in there: /g/T27Owners/table?id=14720Please feel free to add yourself and your boat? (I'm 1965 hull #93). There's going to be an echo in here, but fiberglass epoxy layout. Gently sand the bronze to get the oxide off (I keep a roll of plumber's sandpaper cloth handy... the cloth backing makes it a lot easier to use for hand sanding on fussy handles) and expose and rough up fiberglass on the top of the centerboard trunk for at least a few inches around.? Scrape or grind off the old filler used to seal that. Clean up particles with a clean rag and solvent, then do some fiberglass and epoxy layup, maybe to 1/4" thick, going between the trunk and pipe, replacing whatever was there (polyester filler maybe?). Since you're currently on the hard, it's a good chance to remove thru-hulls you don't want and rebed ones you do.? If you don't know when that was last done, assume the worst.? Original bronze should be replaced and anything bedded with 4200/5200 should be rebedded.? It's also a chance to service the stuffing box I guess (still have a dripless seal, which requires more maintenance and is even more impossible to service on the water).? Apologies if this is something you're already well aware of. Cheers, -scott
On 4/17/22, dfeatherstone90@... < dfeatherstone90@...> wrote: > Hey all, just picked up a 66 Tartan 27. Already love it but noticed the area > where the cable for center board fits through was loose and actually not > sealed.. glad I noticed before the splash. Anyway I can¡¯t seem to find out > the best solution for fixing. I was thinking just pushing the metal sleeve > back through the hull and using 4200 to seal her up. Would love a more > permanent solution. Any help appreciated! >
|
Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
First, congrats on the boat! ?While I would agree with Scott regarding assuming the worst, I might not be quite as categorical. ? Bronze fittings, if they¡¯re of good quality, last for many decades; that¡¯s a main reason they¡¯re used. ? The telltale sign of being too far gone is a pinkish cast to them. ?That¡¯s usually caused by the bronze de-zincifying, usually caused by galvanic corrosion. ?If they¡¯re headed that way, then yes, by all means, replace them. ? But if not, and they appear in all ways sound, I¡¯m not sure that removing them just because they¡¯re old is really necessary.?
As to the 4200/5200 comments, I¡¯d say first, how would you know? ? Or at least, how would you know without trying to remove them? ?I¡¯m personally unaware of there being a longevity problem with either of those two products. ?And as to the 5200, well, there¡¯s a reason it¡¯s called ¡°The Devil¡¯s Glue.¡± ? I can¡¯t recall where, but somebody markets a solvent for it, but without that, good luck removing anything bedded in 5200. ?But I have also read that Tartan DID use plain pipe just fiberglassed into the hull for certain applications, i.e. NOT a thru-hull, just a glassed-in pipe. ? That¡¯s bad enough, but since it¡¯s almost impossible to find small bronze, as opposed to brass, pipe, if you found any of those, I¡¯d suspect they might be brass, and yeah, they should go and be replaced with a proper thru-hull. ??
I¡¯d also add to your checklist, the rudderpost heel fitting, all the way down there at the bottom. ? I have encountered one which was not only extremely worn, making for a lot of sloppiness; but was also cracked all along one side! ? ?The rudder and its post are pretty heavy, and if that heel fitting ever gave way, I wouldn¡¯t count on the tiller fitting being tight enough to keep it attached to the boat, and ooops, there goes your rudder. ?
Warren Stein, Hull No. 90, Seanachie
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Walters <scrottie@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Apr 18, 2022 7:53 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
Welcome to the list, and congrats on the boat! Should have mentioned it to Christopher as well but the forum has a little database feature, and there's an "Owners list" in there: /g/T27Owners/table?id=14720Please feel free to add yourself and your boat? (I'm 1965 hull #93). There's going to be an echo in here, but fiberglass epoxy layout. Gently sand the bronze to get the oxide off (I keep a roll of plumber's sandpaper cloth handy... the cloth backing makes it a lot easier to use for hand sanding on fussy handles) and expose and rough up fiberglass on the top of the centerboard trunk for at least a few inches around.? Scrape or grind off the old filler used to seal that. Clean up particles with a clean rag and solvent, then do some fiberglass and epoxy layup, maybe to 1/4" thick, going between the trunk and pipe, replacing whatever was there (polyester filler maybe?). Since you're currently on the hard, it's a good chance to remove thru-hulls you don't want and rebed ones you do.? If you don't know when that was last done, assume the worst.? Original bronze should be replaced and anything bedded with 4200/5200 should be rebedded.? It's also a chance to service the stuffing box I guess (still have a dripless seal, which requires more maintenance and is even more impossible to service on the water).? Apologies if this is something you're already well aware of. Cheers, -scott
On 4/17/22, dfeatherstone90@... < dfeatherstone90@...> wrote: > Hey all, just picked up a 66 Tartan 27. Already love it but noticed the area > where the cable for center board fits through was loose and actually not > sealed.. glad I noticed before the splash. Anyway I can¡¯t seem to find out > the best solution for fixing. I was thinking just pushing the metal sleeve > back through the hull and using 4200 to seal her up. Would love a more > permanent solution. Any help appreciated! >
|
Hi Christopher, Ha, youtube suggested that to me while scrolling suggestions on there, about a week ago. Been watching a lot of Sampson Boat Co/Tally Ho Project, Roger Barnes' dinghy cruising channel, and other boaty things. Only a few episodes in, but your electrical panel looks absolutely perfect. Mine is full of skeletons. Was remembering that there's an owners database at /g/T27Owners/table?id=14720 if you're keen. I'm #93 in there. I have a tube roller but no idea how to bend tubing to match the changing curve radiuses of the deck from bow to stern. Anyone have any thoughts on this? No idea. Or very little. I've seen mild steel conduit radiused to make a small greenhouse structure. A large piece of ply was put down, a batten bent along the surface of it between points and pinned in place with nails to re-create the needed curve, wooden stops screwed in to place, and the conduit bent against the stops using an extra length of the conduit as a long lever. Something with more spring than mild steel, bending exactly to stops along a curve wouldn't work. Cheers, -scott On 4/16/22, Christopher Kohler <ckohler0529@...> wrote: Thanks everyone who replied. As far as pictures go, I have very few stills
because I have been video documenting my refit on YouTube. Here is a link
to the most recent video. . I have another
question for everyone. I want to replace the wire lifelines with solid
tubing, either aluminum or stainless. Anyone have any experience with
that? I have a tube roller but no idea how to bend tubing to match the
changing curve radiuses of the deck from bow to stern. Anyone have any
thoughts on this?
Thanks,
Christopher Kohler
On Sat, Mar 5, 2022, 12:29 PM Scott Walters <scrottie@...> wrote:
Hi Christopher,
I think I remember the topic coming up in the past...
/g/T27Owners/message/7225?p=%2C%2C%2C20%2C0%2C0%2C0%3A%3Arelevance%2C%2Cpowerboat+trailer%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C36167914
talks about seeing large trucks being unable to pull boats up the
ramp.
/g/T27Owners/message/2372?p=%2C%2C%2C20%2C0%2C0%2C0%3A%3Arelevance%2C%2Cpowerboat+trailer%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C36162489
has a discussion from someone who did this, it looks like (and also a
close serial number to my 93).
But mostly just wanted to say welcome and thanks for joining us. At
any point you'd like to share pics, I at least always enjoy seeing
them.
Cheers,
-scott
On 3/5/22, Christopher Kohler <ckohler0529@...> wrote:
Hi Everyone,
My name is Christopher and I am new to the group. I have been
restoring
hull # 372 for the last few years. Has anyone had any experience modifying
a used powerboat trailer to safely fit the Tartan 27?
Thx.
|
Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
Scott you¡¯re my dang hero. That was an excellent explanation of the job.?
I have serviced the stuffing box and this is my last hurdle. Thankfully the previous owner is cool and will probably lend a hand so I think I can tackle that. I owe you many beers if you¡¯re ever in Maine.?
Dan?
On Mon, Apr 18, 2022 at 7:53 AM Scott Walters < scrottie@...> wrote: Welcome to the list, and congrats on the boat!
Should have mentioned it to Christopher as well but the forum has a
little database feature, and there's an "Owners list" in there:
/g/T27Owners/table?id=14720
Please feel free to add yourself and your boat? (I'm 1965 hull #93).
There's going to be an echo in here, but fiberglass epoxy layout.
Gently sand the bronze to get the oxide off (I keep a roll of
plumber's sandpaper cloth handy... the cloth backing makes it a lot
easier to use for hand sanding on fussy handles) and expose and rough
up fiberglass on the top of the centerboard trunk for at least a few
inches around.? Scrape or grind off the old filler used to seal that.
Clean up particles with a clean rag and solvent, then do some
fiberglass and epoxy layup, maybe to 1/4" thick, going between the
trunk and pipe, replacing whatever was there (polyester filler
maybe?).
Since you're currently on the hard, it's a good chance to remove
thru-hulls you don't want and rebed ones you do.? If you don't know
when that was last done, assume the worst.? Original bronze should be
replaced and anything bedded with 4200/5200 should be rebedded.? It's
also a chance to service the stuffing box I guess (still have a
dripless seal, which requires more maintenance and is even more
impossible to service on the water).? Apologies if this is something
you're already well aware of.
Cheers,
-scott
On 4/17/22, dfeatherstone90@... <dfeatherstone90@...> wrote:
> Hey all, just picked up a 66 Tartan 27. Already love it but noticed the area
> where the cable for center board fits through was loose and actually not
> sealed.. glad I noticed before the splash. Anyway I can¡¯t seem to find out
> the best solution for fixing. I was thinking just pushing the metal sleeve
> back through the hull and using 4200 to seal her up. Would love a more
> permanent solution. Any help appreciated!
>
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Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
Welcome to the list, and congrats on the boat! Should have mentioned it to Christopher as well but the forum has a little database feature, and there's an "Owners list" in there: /g/T27Owners/table?id=14720Please feel free to add yourself and your boat (I'm 1965 hull #93). There's going to be an echo in here, but fiberglass epoxy layout. Gently sand the bronze to get the oxide off (I keep a roll of plumber's sandpaper cloth handy... the cloth backing makes it a lot easier to use for hand sanding on fussy handles) and expose and rough up fiberglass on the top of the centerboard trunk for at least a few inches around. Scrape or grind off the old filler used to seal that. Clean up particles with a clean rag and solvent, then do some fiberglass and epoxy layup, maybe to 1/4" thick, going between the trunk and pipe, replacing whatever was there (polyester filler maybe?). Since you're currently on the hard, it's a good chance to remove thru-hulls you don't want and rebed ones you do. If you don't know when that was last done, assume the worst. Original bronze should be replaced and anything bedded with 4200/5200 should be rebedded. It's also a chance to service the stuffing box I guess (still have a dripless seal, which requires more maintenance and is even more impossible to service on the water). Apologies if this is something you're already well aware of. Cheers, -scott
On 4/17/22, dfeatherstone90@... <dfeatherstone90@...> wrote: Hey all, just picked up a 66 Tartan 27. Already love it but noticed the area
where the cable for center board fits through was loose and actually not
sealed.. glad I noticed before the splash. Anyway I can¡¯t seem to find out
the best solution for fixing. I was thinking just pushing the metal sleeve
back through the hull and using 4200 to seal her up. Would love a more
permanent solution. Any help appreciated!
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Centerboard Cable thru hull question.
Hey all, just picked up a 66 Tartan 27. Already love it but noticed the area where the cable for center board fits through was loose and actually not sealed.. glad I noticed before the splash. Anyway I can¡¯t seem to find out the best solution for fixing. I was thinking just pushing the metal sleeve back through the hull and using 4200 to seal her up. Would love a more permanent solution. Any help appreciated!?  
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Thanks everyone who replied.? As far as pictures go, I have very few stills because I have been video documenting my refit on YouTube. Here is a link to the most recent video.??. I have another question?for everyone.? I want to replace the wire lifelines with solid tubing,? either aluminum or stainless.? Anyone have any experience with that?? I have a tube roller but no idea how to bend tubing to match the changing curve radiuses of the deck from bow to stern. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Thanks,?
Christopher Kohler?
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Thanks, Caleb. I'd like to try it. I have a fantastic fabricator who has already made multiple missing parts for this boat, so the handle shouldn't be a problem.
-----Original Message-----
From: Caleb Davison via groups.io <calebjess@...>
To: [email protected] < [email protected]>
Sent: Tue, Apr 5, 2022 12:40 am
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Roller furling boom
Monica,
Please remember that the "roller furling" gear on the original boom requires a special handle to make the boom rotate.? You could fabricate your own handle of sorts but almost no one uses the "roller furling" boom as it was originally intended.? For almost the same amount of work the main sail can be reefed with the standard slab reefing and it will have a much superior shape than the original "roller furling" boom could deliver.
That said, if you don't have a T27 boom then this is definitely a step up from what you do have.
Good luck.
Caleb D.
T27 #328
-----Original Message-----
From: Monica <monicam@...>
To: [email protected] < [email protected]>
Sent: Mon, Apr 4, 2022 8:14 pm
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Roller furling boom
May I come get it this weekend ? Either SaT or Sun, whichever is more convenient for you. Bron Yr Aur would love this !
-----Original Message-----
From: William Fleischer via groups.io <fleischerwilliam@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Apr 4, 2022 2:38 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Roller furling boom
roller furling boom. No handle. Located Long Island N.Y. ?
come and get it.?
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Monica,
Please remember that the "roller furling" gear on the original boom requires a special handle to make the boom rotate.? You could fabricate your own handle of sorts but almost no one uses the "roller furling" boom as it was originally intended.? For almost the same amount of work the main sail can be reefed with the standard slab reefing and it will have a much superior shape than the original "roller furling" boom could deliver.
That said, if you don't have a T27 boom then this is definitely a step up from what you do have.
Good luck.
Caleb D.
T27 #328
-----Original Message-----
From: Monica <monicam@...>
To: [email protected] < [email protected]>
Sent: Mon, Apr 4, 2022 8:14 pm
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Roller furling boom
May I come get it this weekend ? Either SaT or Sun, whichever is more convenient for you. Bron Yr Aur would love this !
-----Original Message-----
From: William Fleischer via groups.io <fleischerwilliam@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Apr 4, 2022 2:38 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Roller furling boom
roller furling boom. No handle. Located Long Island N.Y. ?
come and get it.?
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May I come get it this weekend ? Either SaT or Sun, whichever is more convenient for you. Bron Yr Aur would love this !
-----Original Message-----
From: William Fleischer via groups.io <fleischerwilliam@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Mon, Apr 4, 2022 2:38 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Roller furling boom
roller furling boom. No handle. Located Long Island N.Y. ?
come and get it.?
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roller furling boom. No handle. Located Long Island N.Y. ?
come and get it.?
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I keep mine on a trailer.? It was originally a sailboat trailer but for a different boat.? You will want at least two axels.? Spec on our boats is 7500 lbs but the crane has told me 8-9 thousand pounds.? I pull it with an old T100 but I'm only going a couple miles and never over 30 mph.? You'll want a 2500 at least if you are on the highway.? I have trailer launched it once using an a frame to step the mast but never tried to retrieve it.??
Hope that helps,
Daniel
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On 3/5/22, Christopher Kohler <ckohler0529@...> wrote: Hi Everyone,
My name is Christopher and I am new to the group. I have been restoring
hull # 372 for the last few years. Has anyone had any experience modifying
a used powerboat trailer to safely fit the Tartan 27?
Thx.
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Yes. I took a trailer designed for a powerboat and added a cradle I picked up for $500
It works great.
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On Mar 5, 2022, at 9:38 AM, Christopher Kohler <ckohler0529@...> wrote:
?
Hi Everyone,
My name is Christopher and I am new to the group. I have been restoring hull # 372 for the last few years. Has anyone had any experience modifying a used powerboat trailer to safely fit the Tartan 27?
Thx.
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