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Re: Centerboard Cable thru hull question.

Warren Stein All Messages By This Member #10095 The original pennants were wire, I think 7x7 but maybe 7x19. ? Either way they have a minimum bending radius which is significantly greater that the diameter of the smaller (wire side) spindle on the centerboard winch drum, which is why they fail: they’re regularly wound too tight. ? To the point about the Dyneema pennant and chafing, be aware that New England Ropes makes a Dyneema chafe sleeve. ? When I replaced the wire pennant, which was nothing but meathooks, I used a Dyneema pennant, encased in a NER Dyneema sleeve. ? At a minimum it should buy me some longevity. ? It’s important to secure both ends of the sleeve; I sewed it through the pennant. ?If you don’t, and the top end of the sleeve slips down past the bronze fitting atop the centerboard trunk, the sleeve will bunch up inside the trunk with the actual pennant running through it, forming a bellows and prevent you from raising the board fully. ?AMHIK. ? ?? toggle quoted message Show quoted text -----Original Message----- From: jeremy@... To: [email protected] Sent: Mon, Apr 18, 2022 11:51 am Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Centerboard Cable thru hull question. While you are monkeying about with that bit -- you should be aware that the fairlead has a tendency to rub on the aft portion of the pipe and can saw through it over time. In the battle between bronze and stainless steel, the stainless steel will win everytime. You should see if that problem exists on your particular boat. This photo album is incomplete, but you can see the damage that was done and some of the repairs, I inserted a tube in the existing tube to reinforce it. I strengthened the existing tube connection to the hull with some additional fiberglass. And, not shown at all, I created a plug with a hole in the middle that goes in the hose to try to keep the fairlead cable better centered to minimize rubbing on the fairlead pipe. Other people have replaced the fairlead cable with dyneema, since the dyneema is unlikely to saw through the bronze.. Dyneema is plenty strong, but sensitive to abrasion. So if you are in the great lakes where hard growth is not a big issue, that can work. If you are someplace where barnacles are likely to grow, you might find that they slice up a dyneema fairlead. Another thing to be concerned about is the point further forward where the centerboard pivots. The centerboard can rust through there and the whole centerboard can fall off. Unfortunately, inspecting that is a major pain because you need to drop the centerboard to inspect it. That means you need to have the boat blocked up high enough to lower the centerboard all the way, and done in a way that does not block the centerboard trunk. And then after you inspect it, you have to get it in place and get the holes aligned to reinsert the pin. That last bit usually takes me more than an hour (sadly, I had to do it twice during a single haul out). Honestly, if you are going to inspect the centerboard, I would simply expect it to be a big project where you have to lower it, do some significant repairs to it and repaint it, create a new centerboard pin, and then reinstall it. Because it is annoying to inspect, people seldom do. Though you mentioned you are on good terms with the previous owner -- so you can ask when they last inspected it (if ever). - jeremy On Sun, Apr 17, 2022 at 9:36 PM <dfeatherstone90@...> wrote: Hey all, just picked up a 66 Tartan 27. Already love it but noticed the area where the cable for center board fits through was loose and actually not sealed.. glad I noticed before the splash. Anyway I can’t seem to find out the best solution for fixing. I was thinking just pushing the metal sleeve back through the hull and using 4200 to seal her up. Would love a more permanent solution. Any help appreciated!?

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#10095

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