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Re: Mast Partners
Hi Bill,
My buddy used spar tite on his Pearson 10M and it looks great. It takes the place of the rubber wedges and seals that area from water as well. He's got a real slick boot over the whole deal and supposedly when you pull the mast, it stays with the mast and pops out of the hull, provided you applied it all correctly. You should investigate that stuff. I think the Tartan web site even lists it for sale. I purchased some on another site for about 10 bucks cheaper but wanted to see if anyone had input before I used it. If I do it soon, I'll shoot some photos to you and let you know how easy the whole thing is. best, c |
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Re: Mast Partners
Chris, ? I need the same thing. Any ideas, resource information would be appreciated. ? Billy Ray Davis Scarlet #79 chrisd4700 wrote:
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Re: Pulling the engine
CHRISTIAN BECKER
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýIn rough numbers the engine weighs about 450
pounds. The boom will take the load. Attempt to down boom as far as you can into
the center of the boat at the entry to the cabin. Using a sling to remove some
of the engine weight from the boat, slide out the engine on wood. It is easier
to do than one thinks. When the engine is in the area where you can attach a
handy Billy or boom vang, take up on the handy bill to get the engine to the
boom. Then with the topping lift and a person, lift out the engine from the
boat. When it is high enough, you can swing the whole thing off the boat. I
would suggest that you use the main halyard as a back up safety line for the
lift.
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Good Luck
Chris Becker
Tartan 27 Number 511
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Re: Recommendations for Cabin Interior Paint?
CHRISTIAN BECKER
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAbout six months ago when I was looking at another
boat that had a bad case of mildew on the inside surface, I found out two
things. First, there are special paints that are good looking that provide a
high level of mildew resistance with test reports to support it. Second, having
a lot of air moving in the boat helps too. Another thing is to use Clorox in
solution to clean the surfaces. This should be done prior to painting with the
deal/concept to kill the spoors on the surface. When the paint or any paint is
applied, the spoors will still be there otherwise and cause the problem to come
to the surface again.
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There is a two part paint on the internet that
appears to be very good.
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With respect to gloss, I like and suggest a semi or
non gloss look to compliment the wood trim. By the way, it is a good thing to
remove, sand, and strip the wood at this point in time. After removing all the
finish, I would use a product that I have used for 50 years called ALBINO bleach
system. It is a two part and removes all the black from the wood. The wood will
need to dry for a few days prior to the next phase of work. If it is teak and it
is inside, then get a good flat or semi gloss product for it. If the teak is on
the outside, leave it bare and wash it twice a year with dishwasher gel and lots
of water.
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Make sure that you use a good grade of tape to tape
out the surfaces from each other. Another idea is to put wood grain or white
counter top material on the surfaces. That may reduce the work to some degree
and reduce the work to keep it up.
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One might like to look into the interior designs of
yachts of olden times and see what they looked like. One builder in Bristol used
white and wood trim. It looked great for years.
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Well that is all I have to say on the
topics.
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Regards to all,
Chris Becker
Tartan 27 511
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Re: Recommendations for Cabin Interior Paint?
Matthias Klemm
I used a generic gloss white industrial oil based enamel sold at Home Depot by the gallon ($25) and it works great. It's very tuff. But it takes a while for the fresh paint odor to go away. To the contrary to most people here I like the gloss because there is no way for mildew stains to settle in. Also this particular paint was very forgiving with my shoddy prep job.
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Matthias On May 8, 2008, at 7:41 PM, jyowen3 wrote:
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Re: Recommendations for Cabin Interior Paint?
I recently repainted the head. sanded and brushed pretty well, put on two coats of the precoat (suggested over old paint, required on fiberglass) and then used the interlux enamel. For the raised floor of the head I used the same process, but easypoxy as the paint. Both worked fine: preferred the lower gloss of the interlux. Did all the wood in five coats of flat epiphanes varnish...came out really nice.
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Now the problem is the head is by far the nicest part of the interior... Marty "Poseidon" Vancouver ____________________________ On 8-May-08, at 4:41 PM, jyowen3 wrote:
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Re: Recommendations for Cabin Interior Paint?
I'm in the process of doing mine.
?First I removed as much loose paint as I could by sanding and wire brushing, I didn't get too carried away.. then used a penetrating epoxy, I got a no blush basic epoy from epoxyproducts.com ( no blush is important since regular epoxy will leave what is essentially a wax and hard to paint over) and thinned it about 15% with Xylene. ?I ended up painting using a west marine one part polyurethane since they had a buy one get one free for $29... similar to easypoxy. My problem which seems to be common to our boats has been damp and mildew.. I would avoid any latex paint since, I don't care what the manufacturer says, it will peel in a damp environment. I try to be green and really like the sound of system three water borne paint but it's soo pricey, I have heard of people using exterior enamel house paint with good results but I wanted a surface that was more rugged. Where the surface is smooth? It almost looks like gelcoat.. I used a roll and tip technique as best I could... The epoxy seems to have really sealed any loose flakes I missed? and the finish is going to be easy to clean. It may be overkill but since I have all the ports out and the hull stripped I only want to do it once.? Paint and materialswill end up costing? around $120.. I've also been trying the same technique with the painted woodwork with decent results. Unfortunately progress pretty much halted since my right arm is in a cast until August... Good luck... Rich
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Re: Recommendations for Cabin Interior Paint?
Interlux-Brightside Polyurethane - add flattening
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agent to reduce gloss. --- jyowen3 <jordan@...> wrote: Does anyone have any particular recommendations for |
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Re: Recommendations for Cabin Interior Paint?
Interlux-Brightside Polyurethane - add flattening
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agent to reduce gloss. --- jyowen3 <jordan@...> wrote: Does anyone have any particular recommendations for |
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Re: Back stay!
Marty,
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I did this on #328 a few years ago and I should have kept the bolts outside of the 'knee wall' at the transom as you suggest. When I get to the Stbd and Port chainplates I intend to do it this way. There was only soil left where the enclosed plywood (?) had been and it was ready to go. Our aft chain plate lifted up about 1/8" with a major twang to the whole rigging before we understood what was going on or caught wind of it. What is buried in fiberglass can kill you. It does not mean that you are paranoid. Caleb D #328 Odalisque, '67 Nyack, NY --- In T27Owners@..., Marty Levenson <martylev@...> wrote:
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Re: Mast Length
There should be a stainless plate that the mast
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stands on.Sole aka floor. --- Armando Morell <morell_21114@...> wrote: --------------------------------- I have to admit my ignorance. what is the sole surface and the step plate? am --- On Wed, 5/7/08, Robert Wrock <bobwrock@...>
wrote: From: Robert Wrock <bobwrock@...> Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Mast Length To: T27Owners@... Date: Wednesday, May 7, 2008, 10:22 AM I bought a nos mast that has the updated 4 sheave head.The new mast measures 38'3".My old one measures 38'.I believe they reduced the hight of the step.My question - is your step plate lower than the top of your sole surface and by aprox.how much? Thanks Bob- --- Armando Morell <morell_21114@ yahoo.com> wrote: ------------ --------- --------- --- I own a 1974 but not sure what you need measured. hull 555 armando --- On Sun, 5/4/08, bobwrock <bobwrock@yahoo. com> wrote: From: bobwrock <bobwrock@yahoo. com> Subject: [T27Owners] Mast Length To: T27Owners@yahoogrou ps.com Date: Sunday, May 4, 2008, 8:17 PM I have two masts- 1965-38' 1975-38'3" Question-Was the step lowered 3" or was the Mast height raised 3"in 1975? If anyone owns a 1974 or newer please give the measurement between mast step and top of sole.Also aprox.1965-measurem ent between mast step and top of sole. Thanks,Bob- ------------ --------- --------- --- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. |
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Re: Mast Length
--- On Wed, 5/7/08, Robert Wrock wrote: From: Robert Wrock Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. |
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Re: Mast Length
I bought a nos mast that has the updated 4 sheave
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head.The new mast measures 38'3".My old one measures 38'.I believe they reduced the hight of the step.My question - is your step plate lower than the top of your sole surface and by aprox.how much? Thanks Bob- --- Armando Morell <morell_21114@...> wrote: --------------------------------- I own a 1974 but not sure what you need measured. hull 555 armando --- On Sun, 5/4/08, bobwrock <bobwrock@...>
wrote: From: bobwrock <bobwrock@...> Subject: [T27Owners] Mast Length To: T27Owners@... Date: Sunday, May 4, 2008, 8:17 PM I have two masts- 1965-38' 1975-38'3" Question-Was the step lowered 3" or was the Mast height raised 3"in 1975? If anyone owns a 1974 or newer please give the measurement between mast step and top of sole.Also aprox.1965-measurem ent between mast step and top of sole. Thanks,Bob- --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. |
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Re: Back stay!
Dear Tartan list,
Today I bit the bullet and and opened up the fiberglass encasing the backstay tang on our 1967 T27. Good thing I did: the bolts were almost corroded through and the plywood was wet and rotten...I removed much of it with my bare hands. I want to emphasize that there was no external indication of a problem. I had intended to do this for a couple years, and now am amazed it held together this long. I made a new "knee" and glassed it in...the 6 new stainless bolts (old were galvanized) will be longer, and go through the glass as well as the knee. a structural engineer boat owner neighbor wanted me to use one or two stainless plates bent at 90 degrees...bolted to the hull and to the tang. I was tempted as that is sure to be even stronger, but what I am doing is much stronger than the original (which lasted 40 years). Hope that is useful, Marty ("Poseidon", Vancouver) |
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Re: Mast Length
--- On Sun, 5/4/08, bobwrock wrote: From: bobwrock Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. |
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Re: Chainplate relocation comment
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýWe have a lot of light air here in Texas¡ so a 130 on a furler is a piece of cake to manage¡. J ? As for the AC, the ¡°sole¡± (aka floor to the rest of the world) had to come out.? As did the sides with the cute little doors.? I simply installed the v-berth ¡°piece¡± and it¡¯s permanent now.? I also added an aluminum angle across the opening to ensure that the patch never falls down on the AC.? I installed a couple of pieces of wood and used some liquid nails to get me out of the need to fiberglass in there.? The AC weighs about 60# and so it just sits there¡ It can¡¯t go very far in any direction so I don¡¯t worry about it.? It¡¯s been in 5 foot chop and I haven¡¯t had any issues with it. ? I built a plywood face for the new opening under the v-berth patch.? I put the inlet there.? I built a filter box behind it, or rather something I could set a filter in to change periodically.?? A $1 filter from HomeDepot is better than a special filter from west marine. ? I use the Head as my plenum.? I route all the AC output into the bottom of the head.? At the top of the head there are two adjustable vents fore and two aft.? This allows me to split the AC to all forward or all back.? I can¡¯t have AC when I¡¯m not at the dock, and when you are at the dock, using the shoebox toilet is only for emergencies.? J? I call it the shoebox toilet because it¡¯s so damn cramped.? You basically have to drop your pants, step in, close the door, sit down and do your thing.? Etc.? lol.? I have the smallest head I could find in there.? I removed one of the shelves behind there and installed a lectra-san that someone had abandoned.? I got it for $25 at the local resale shop because they thought it was dead.? It needed a new macerator motor and to have the electrodes cleaned in sulfuric acid (per lectra sans procedure).? It beats the hell out of having a holding tank.? Besides which our water is so murky the discharge is cleaner.? And yes, it¡¯s legal (for now). ? My only remaining gripe/project is no shower¡ I am planning to put in a cockpit shower somehow.? The drain is built in, just have to do the pressure water thing and find somewhere to stash the hose.? Not like I¡¯d drink water out of that tank anyhow.? J ? Btw, I highly recommend the SailRite Ultra Feed¡. They¡¯ve been great with support.? I changed my furler¡¯s sacrificial cover.? It took me about 6 hours and $60 of material.? The sail maker wanted $600!? I also made a sail cover for $150..? I¡¯m going to be remaking the bimini.? The sailmaker didn¡¯t do what I asked, it¡¯s been there a while, and it¡¯s the wrong color.? I explicitly told the sailmaker not to put holes in the deck¡. He did and then sealed them with silicone.? GRRR.? I had to rebed it with 5200.? I¡¯m going to remake the interior upholstery¡ which will pay for the machine a couple times itself. ? Brian Hotpuppy Too #71 |