¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
Date

Re: Hurricane Ike

Bob
 

Thank you for the info Brian. Good advice. Glad to hear you made it
through alright.

Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90




--- In T27Owners@..., <brian@...> wrote:

I was very lucky that my boat suffered no damage at all. There
were a
few things I wanted to share that might help others when facing a
storm.



1) I was on a floating dock. This single thing seems to make
an
enormous difference in the amount of damage boats suffered. The
fixed
piers were decimated at my marina and look like a Giant scattered
boats.

2) I took the time to double up lines, and then lead the tails
back
to the boat and secure them again. Yes it seemed like overkill,
but my
boat has no storm damage.

3) I secured everything I could not remove, including roller
furler, boom, tiller, etc. I removed anything I could, including
outboard, grill, bimini, etc.

4) I knew I had a cockpit drain that was leaking, I used some
instant-foam to fill it. I'll dig it out later, but that single
thing
probably kept a lot of water out of my boat. I had 3 inches of
water in
the cockpit where leaves and crap had clogged the working drain.

Just figured I'd share my experiences. The devastation that Ike
caused
is unimaginable unless you are there. There were many boats that
simply
yanked their pilings out or broke them off and took them with them
inland. I don't think a single floating pier lost a boat. That in
and
of itself is stunning. There were several entire piers that were
obliterated and the boats destroyed.



I have a picture of my old slip ( a fixed slip) where the boat was
thrown from the water and placed in between the other boats on the
dock
itself. It's simply amazing. I'll try to post it.



One other thing, many boats suffered sail damage because owners
did not
remove the furling sails. Many other boats suffered because old or
undersized lines were used. A true tragedy. Part of my storm plan
was
having a spare set of docklines that had never been used. When the
storm warning was forecast I went down and used those to secure the
boat. My thinking was that they would be at maximum strength with
no
damage.



Houston is currently closed to recreational boating due to many
submerged (sunk) obstacles and shifted nav-aids.



I also have to think that our good old boats had a lot to do with
the
survival. They are built tough and well made.



Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company www.txshirts.com <>

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand


Hurricane Ike

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I was very lucky that my boat suffered no damage at all.? There were a few things I wanted to share that might help others when facing a storm.

?

1)????? I was on a floating dock.? This single thing seems to make an enormous difference in the amount of damage boats suffered.? The fixed piers were decimated at my marina and look like a Giant scattered boats.

2)????? I took the time to double up lines, and then lead the tails back to the boat and secure them again.? Yes it seemed like overkill, but my boat has no storm damage.?

3)????? I secured everything I could not remove, including roller furler, boom, tiller, etc.? I removed anything I could, including outboard, grill, bimini, etc.

4)????? I knew I had a cockpit drain that was leaking, I used some instant-foam to fill it.? I¡¯ll dig it out later, but that single thing probably kept a lot of water out of my boat.? I had 3 inches of water in the cockpit where leaves and crap had clogged the working drain.

Just figured I¡¯d share my experiences.? The devastation that Ike caused is unimaginable unless you are there.? There were many boats that simply yanked their pilings out or broke them off and took them with them inland.? I don¡¯t think a single floating pier lost a boat.? That in and of itself is stunning.? There were several entire piers that were obliterated and the boats destroyed.

?

I have a picture of my old slip ( a fixed slip) where the boat was thrown from the water and placed in between the other boats on the dock itself.? It¡¯s simply amazing.? I¡¯ll try to post it.

?

One other thing, many boats suffered sail damage because owners? did not remove the furling sails.? Many other boats suffered because old or undersized lines were used.? A true tragedy.? Part of my storm plan was having a spare set of docklines that had never been used.? When the storm warning was forecast I went down and used those to secure the boat.? My thinking was that they would be at maximum strength with no damage.

?

Houston is currently closed to recreational boating due to many submerged (sunk) obstacles and shifted nav-aids.?

?

I also have to think that our good old boats had a lot to do with the survival.? They are built tough and well made.

?

Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand


Re: coring

 

Bob,
?
Thanks for responding. I was only thinking about maybe 5 feet of your thick?matt?for say 10 -20?feet of my thinner matt. That much would probably last me for years. I''ve finished about 98% of the glass work on Scarlet and I'm not looking for any more fiberglass projects for a long long time. It makes me itch just typing this email!
?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlett #79


--- On Wed, 9/17/08, Bob wrote:
From: Bob
Subject: [T27Owners] Re: coring
To: T27Owners@...
Date: Wednesday, September 17, 2008, 12:04 PM

Billy Ray,
I kinda way overestimated the amount of mat I would need. The caption
was more of a joke, but when I'm done with the decks I'll probably be
looking to get rid of it. I don't need anymore cloth though, thanks
for the offer. Shipping on the roll will probably kill you anyhow. As
it is currently a 100 lb roll.
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

--- In T27Owners@yahoogrou ps.com, Bill Davis wrote:
>
> Bob,
> ?
> I?saw a picture?posted of rough glass matt?which I believe you
posted with the caption, does anyone need chop matt cloth?
> ?
> I have a about 900 feet of medium to fine cloth fiberglass matt
that is approximately 30 inch's wide. It would be suitable for a top
or finish coat, in my opinion.
> ?
> I don't have a current need for chop matt cloth but likely will in
the future. I would be glad to trade. Let me know if you are
interested or anyone else for that matter.
> ?
> Billy Ray Davis
> Scarlet #79
>



Re: coring

Bob
 

Billy Ray,
I kinda way overestimated the amount of mat I would need. The caption
was more of a joke, but when I'm done with the decks I'll probably be
looking to get rid of it. I don't need anymore cloth though, thanks
for the offer. Shipping on the roll will probably kill you anyhow. As
it is currently a 100 lb roll.
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

--- In T27Owners@..., Bill Davis <backstay13@...> wrote:

Bob,
?
I?saw a picture?posted of rough glass matt?which I believe you
posted with the caption, does anyone need chop matt cloth?
?
I have a about 900 feet of medium to fine cloth fiberglass matt
that is approximately 30 inch's wide. It would be suitable for a top
or finish coat, in my opinion.
?
I don't have a current need for chop matt cloth but likely will in
the future. I would be glad to trade. Let me know if you are
interested or anyone else for that matter.
?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79


Re: Cutlass Bearing... bad link sorry...

 




Re: coring

 

Bob,
?
I?saw a picture?posted of rough glass matt?which I believe you posted with the caption, does anyone need chop matt cloth?
?
I have a about 900 feet of medium to fine cloth fiberglass matt that is approximately 30 inch's wide. It would be suitable for a top or finish coat, in my opinion.
?
I don't have a current need for chop matt cloth but likely will in the future. I would be glad to trade. Let me know if you are interested or anyone else for that matter.
?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79


--- On Mon, 9/15/08, Bob wrote:
From: Bob
Subject: [T27Owners] Re: coring
To: T27Owners@...
Date: Monday, September 15, 2008, 5:30 PM

Chris,
One Layer of wetted out 1.5oz fiberglass mat above and below will
compress enough for a good fit. Thickened epoxy as well just to make
sure. Nice thing about plywood coring is you can almost add as much
weight as you want on top to clamp it down without low spots
occuring. You can almost walk on it dry fitted.
I did remove the old core under the lip and the new core slides under
lips on each side. Some of the worst old coring was under those lips.
I'll try to get a photo tomorrow of a strip sitting on top of the
lips so you can see how far under they extend. About 3/4" under each
lip. Extra thickened epoxy will be needed to fill the left over gap
under the lips.
Ask away. That's why I post each step of the way. And I'm not always
clear in my explanations. Sounds Like I helped a few of you get up
the courage to tackle this project. It took a little courage for me
to get started. I saw a post somewhere on the basics of each step and
Don Casey's This Old Boat has a good section on it as well. Neither
give the dirty details though, so I hope I am filling those in.
Fairly easy, just a lot of steps and you do need to think through
each step thoroughly before starting. I think the cockpit floor was a
good spot for me to start as it is probably the most forgiving as far
as cosmetics. Each section gets easier as I go.

Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

--- In T27Owners@yahoogrou ps.com, "chrisd4700" wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> Are you going to put the wetted out matt under the side deck coring
as
> well? Doesn't look like you have the room for that? Or...are you
> just going to do thickened epoxy, core, more thickened epoxy (to
fill
> gaps), top skin?
>
> Looks fantastic.
>
> One more question, on the side decks, have you removed the core
under
> the one inch lip on each side and slid the new core in underneath?
Or
> is it cut flush? Seems like if you didn't get it under that lip,
> you'd have a weak area of where the old core butted up against the
new.
>
> Sorry for the million questions, I just want to understand your
> process and do it correctly when I do it.
>
> thanks
> c
> #466
>



Re: Cutlass Bearing

 

The old site had so much great info on it... Here's a link from a from a former T-27 owner...
http://www.keeldragger.com/Projects/CutlassBearing.aspx
I pulled the prop shaft last year to polish it around the packing gland...It was in pretty rough shape.
I decided to hold off on the cutlass bearing since there was very little play in the shaft and from what I learned apparently replacing it involves drinking quite a lot of beer and a lot of cursing...
good luck
Rich


Olin Stevens

 

It is sad news, that of Olin's passing. I owe him a great amount of
thanks for the joy he's brought to me, my family and friends. We've
shared some wonderful times on my old Tartan 27. The joy he's brought
to people all over the world is amazing and that we get to correspond
and interact with each other on this site due to his boat is quite
cool and remarkable in and of itself. Kyle, thank you for letting us
know... we were all wrapped up in the fiberglass dust indeed.

Peace
#466


A Legend

Kyle Erlandsen
 

Seems this group is slightly late to the news.? Maybe too much fiberglass dust.
He was a big influence on both my dad and myself.
?
Kyle E.
?
?
The End of a Legend
Not many people deserve the title of legend, But Olin Stephens certainly does. Sadly, the legend is gone as he passed away over the weekend. A wonderful man by all accounts, the body of work of Sparkman and Stephens, the design breakthroughs, and the sheer beauty of their work remains as a testament to the incredible boats they graced our sport with. Of all his brilliant accomplishments, designing eight of the nine America's Cup winners between 1937 and 1980 most certainly stands unmatched. Truly the end of an era and one worth a few moments of your time in . Thanks to for the photograph.
?
GUEST COMMENTARY
(With the recent passing of Olin Stephens, this article was written by David
Pedrick, a prot¨¦g¨¦ from 1970-77 and one of Stephens¡¯ great admirers since
boyhood)

It¡¯s daunting to think of the number of sailors and industry professionals
who have benefitted from Olin Stephens¡¯ genius, whether through the
adrenalin of racing or the serenity of cruising. Spanning from Lightnings to
J-Class yachts, from blue-water cruising and ocean racing to virtually every
important offshore racing event on the planet, Olin crafted designs that
countless crews and the seas themselves have loved.

Olin always kept his sights on the next thing. He could see and admit
publicly the weaknesses of any particular design, and was constantly
figuring out the next improvements to make. When asked about why he didn¡¯t
copyright his designs, he explained that, if someone was copying your past
work, that¡¯s right where you wanted them ¨C behind you. Nevertheless, he
shared his ideas generously by contributing for decades to the technical
development of the sport of yacht racing.

I¡¯ve held a special fondness for Olin, who gave me my start as a yacht
designer in 1970. He soon trusted me with an increasing share of creative
and technical work on major projects, including the America¡¯s Cup and
emerging Maxi racers. With his office hours full of telephone calls and
letter dictation, he used the quiet time of his evenings and train commute
to advance his own ideas. Among the special memories that I have of Olin is
often starting the day with an update on what he had been working on the
evening before, and being asked to take it further during the day. I¡¯d pass
it back to him at the end of the day, and so it would go from one study to
the next.

A few years ago, after I introduced Olin ¨C my most significant mentor ¨C at
an event at the New York Yacht Club, he told a story about his early mentor,
whom he called ¨C even at age 97 ¨C ¡°Mr. Crane.¡± After a few more stories of
his early years in the Six Metre Class, in crisp detail and with humor and
humility, all of us in the room felt the special privilege of having had
that time with him. Throughout his fifty years as an active and amazing
designer, and thirty more in an active and amazing retirement, Olin¡¯s
standards of intellectual challenge and integrity never faltered, and will
shine on every bit as brightly as all the trophies that his creations have
captured.


Re: A4 engine removal

 

Hi Mark
As far as I know it comes out the companionway.
Just to be safe and not damage the hatch I'll be removeing mine when I
pull my A4, just a couple screws on each side that hold the trim on
also hold the hatch on.
If your going to pull the A4 are you also going to service the cutless
bearing, stern tube, hose between stern tube and stuffing box ?
Pull your prop off first and disconnect the shaft pull the A4 and you
can then think about it. At least with the prop off the rest is easy,
if your mechanicly inclined and have the body of a four year old.
Steve k.


A4 engine removal

 

Hi,

Quick question before I get into something I can't really get out of.
It looks to me like the A4 will fit through the companionway and out of
the hold. Does anyone know if I need to remove the companionway hatch
cover, or will it come out with it slid open?

I have a two car garage now ;), and other than the engine turns by hand
I know nothing about it, so I was going to pull it and go over it as my
winter project.

I'll post some pictures this weekend after I get the port lights put
back in, the new paint looks like glass ;)

BTW - Thanks to screaminbob for all the pics and detail about the re-
core.

Mark -n- Kim
Higher Powered II


Re: coring

Bob
 

Chris,
One Layer of wetted out 1.5oz fiberglass mat above and below will
compress enough for a good fit. Thickened epoxy as well just to make
sure. Nice thing about plywood coring is you can almost add as much
weight as you want on top to clamp it down without low spots
occuring. You can almost walk on it dry fitted.
I did remove the old core under the lip and the new core slides under
lips on each side. Some of the worst old coring was under those lips.
I'll try to get a photo tomorrow of a strip sitting on top of the
lips so you can see how far under they extend. About 3/4" under each
lip. Extra thickened epoxy will be needed to fill the left over gap
under the lips.
Ask away. That's why I post each step of the way. And I'm not always
clear in my explanations. Sounds Like I helped a few of you get up
the courage to tackle this project. It took a little courage for me
to get started. I saw a post somewhere on the basics of each step and
Don Casey's This Old Boat has a good section on it as well. Neither
give the dirty details though, so I hope I am filling those in.
Fairly easy, just a lot of steps and you do need to think through
each step thoroughly before starting. I think the cockpit floor was a
good spot for me to start as it is probably the most forgiving as far
as cosmetics. Each section gets easier as I go.

Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90



--- In T27Owners@..., "chrisd4700" <chrisd4700@...> wrote:

Bob,

Are you going to put the wetted out matt under the side deck coring
as
well? Doesn't look like you have the room for that? Or...are you
just going to do thickened epoxy, core, more thickened epoxy (to
fill
gaps), top skin?

Looks fantastic.

One more question, on the side decks, have you removed the core
under
the one inch lip on each side and slid the new core in underneath?
Or
is it cut flush? Seems like if you didn't get it under that lip,
you'd have a weak area of where the old core butted up against the
new.

Sorry for the million questions, I just want to understand your
process and do it correctly when I do it.

thanks
c
#466


coring

 

Bob,

Are you going to put the wetted out matt under the side deck coring as
well? Doesn't look like you have the room for that? Or...are you
just going to do thickened epoxy, core, more thickened epoxy (to fill
gaps), top skin?

Looks fantastic.

One more question, on the side decks, have you removed the core under
the one inch lip on each side and slid the new core in underneath? Or
is it cut flush? Seems like if you didn't get it under that lip,
you'd have a weak area of where the old core butted up against the new.

Sorry for the million questions, I just want to understand your
process and do it correctly when I do it.

thanks
c
#466


Re: Deck Recoring Project

Bob
 

Starboard Side Deck has new coring cut and dry fitted. I cut top skin
in half so as to break it up into two sections. Whole side deck was
too big an area to epoxy all at once. More photos posted. I cut 4
inch wide strips and cut about 1 inch short from toe rail to cabin
side. This allows me to place strip in deck cavity at an angel then
spin it into alignment with both ends under the edge lips and then
slide it up tight to the previous strip. You can see in the photos
the last few I cut in half at an angle as there wasn't enough space
to spin them in. I cut two pieces of 1/4 ply to fit around chain
plates (were it origionally was 3/4" inch. and then the 1/2" strips
fit right over them. With better planning I could have only needed to
cut two pieces in half, but I don't think it matters much. All fits
nicely. If rain holds off tomorrow I'll be epoxying at least the
forst half of the side deck.

Steve: I also posted pictures of the chain plates and knees for you.
I personally prefer this configuration to being completly glassed in
as it fasilitates easier inspection as well as repair if needed. Only
change I am making is adding stainless steel chainplate backing
strips to the side presently with just washers and nuts.

Let me know if anyone affected by Ike needs anything. I got real
lucky with Hanna, and need to spread the karma.

Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90


Re: Ike

 

Agree. Been watching the news and thinking about all of you in Ike's path----hoping you're safe and your property/possessions survive.? R/Tom & Kathy in Titiusville, Fl
Irish Miss T27 #258

----- Original Message ----
From: Adam
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 3:34:13 AM
Subject: [T27Owners] Ike

Just want to send regards to Brian G, who I think sails out of Galveston, and anyone else down there.? 1900 was a long time ago; let's hope it stays that way.





Ike

 

Just want to send regards to Brian G, who I think sails out of Galveston, and anyone else down there.? 1900 was a long time ago; let's hope it stays that way.




Re: Bilge Pump

 

I was doing some work on the engine today and since I have a 3/4 garden hose hooked up to the water pump, I watched how fast the 5 gal bucket emptied... I was impressed. Even though I've made fun of people for doing it in the past, I'm going to add a catastrophic T diverting attachment to the raw water intake hose before the filter to enable bilge pumping. I also have a rule automatic 500 gpm low down in the bulge and a manual whale gusher on the opposite side? as well as an additional? whale gusher? forward for the waste pump out that can be quickly converted to a bilge pump. Just remember that the less volume of water ahead of the pump means the less back flow into the bilge when it shuts down. Theoretically one could end up with a constantly cycling auto bilge pump with enough outlet hose...
Ideally one would run a very low capacity automatic pump with minimal hose diameter and length for final bilge water removal.
?Don't forget the oil absorbent sausage..
Put wooden bungs next to each through hull and know how to locate them all in the dark. Depending on the type of valve at each through hull, frequent operation and a few drips of whatever lubricant is recommended each season to help with ease of operation. I can't imagine anyone still not using quarter turn ball valves, but....
While I'm on the subject I really don't like the drip-less shaft packing, an automatic bilge pump will easily handle any water that leaks by and water is such a superb heat absorber..... When drip-less packings? fail they tend to do so in a way that leads to shaft seizing and breaking and to the use of best bilge pump known to man....
?A scared sailor with a bucket...
Some great posts recently keep up the good work.
Rich

_


Re: Deck Recoring Project

Bob
 

I got the starboard side deck cut out today. I posted some Photos of
the area with the old coring and the chain plate area. Most of it is
balsa core. A little bit of ply extending up from under the winch
stand (area already tackled). And a bit around the chain plates. The
chain plate ply was I believe 3/4". The chain plates had been redone,
I think from underneath, but deck area done poorly and water was
getting in pretty easily. This is the worst condition plywood I have
found so far but still a pain in the arse to dig out. The rest is all
balsa core. a small dry spot at mid side deck, but it is coming out
as it is in between two nasty wet areas. The balsa at the fore area
of my cutout is dry and solid as seems to be the rest of the
foredeck, so I will leave that area alone.

To answer Steves questions:
The chain plate knees were rebuilt already and are still solid. They
were done in a manner so that the chain plates sit on the outside of
the knees and bolt through the knees. I am beefing up this situation
by adding a stainless steel backing chain plate on the other side of
the knee. presently just washers and nuts.I'll get some pics for you.
Then the deck area I will just core around them with 3/4" ply again
and epoxy in around them. Last but not least lots of 4000 UV fast
cure, or your sealant of choice, under the chain plate dressing
plates (the little plate that screws to the deck over the chain
plate). As for the Bondo type stuff...I don't know. It may be epoxy
with fairing compound thickner in it. I guess he was trying to fair
the chain plates from the inside. I don't know. didn't work very
well. Anyway, it's gone now. I am always amazed at what some people
do to their boats, or worse even what they do to other peoples boats.

A friend of mine had his T27 chain plate rip through his deck while
under sail last week. Previous owner had redone the chainplates, but
water was getting into the knee and rotted out the wood coring and
blam, big hole in his side deck. Luckily the mast stayed up and no
one was hurt. Moral of the Story: 1. Don't cut corners, DO IT RIGHT!
2. Just because the previous owner says it was redone, or that they
worked for So and So :) Don't ignore it. Make sure it was done right!

Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90


Recore

 

Hey Bob,

Man, you're kicking butt on that stuff. Let me ask you if:
1. you've done the chain plates
2. If not, are you going to just lay in core around them and glass
Around them or are you going to remove them, fill, replace the glass
and then re-cut or drill them out?

This is the area I'm having to do. What is all that pink stuff in
there? I looks like a "Bondo" type material?

Thanks bud.
c


Re: Coring

Bob
 

Side walls are diffinitly not cored as I have removed all ports and
also patched a crude hole that was hacked out for a shore power plug
in the hanging locker. Some if not all of the cabin top is cored but
I can't say where or how much as mine is solid (not squishy like my
decks) and I'm not getting into them.
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

--- In T27Owners@..., "Steve" <skolar@...> wrote:

To Caleb and Adam
I'm not pressing the issue but when I or we or somebody starts
recoreing the roof of the cabin and asks is this solid fiberglass
here
or cored here or there, I would like to be able to give sound
advice,
thats all.
Actually I'll need the advice.
I have yet to cut open anything on my boat, but if the wife and I
don't
have to tap the boat rebuild fund I plan on doing it this winter.
So I can dream about fiberglass work, is the "area" LOL! around the
mast and hatch over the v-berth and it's side walls solid glass or
cored ?
Is the main cabin roof and side walls solid or cored ?
If any of the above answers are cored, what thickness is the
coreing
and what material was it?
If my memory serves me (not) when rebedding the ports years back I
really don't remember coreing in the side walls.
Steve K.