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Hull and Deck Color
hello everyone
if i get to recore my decks i will also be painting my decks and hull. i'm leaning towards two-part perfection by interlux. the decks will be one color this time to keep it simple. they will be off white to a cream color (love that island packet color). i will use the interlux non-skid prduct for those areas, either mixing in the paint or broadcasting it. i would like the hull to be close to the tartan blue, as it is already blue. what color is that? perfection has, royal blue, flag blue, and mauritius blue. when i first bought the boat the p.o. had painted the transom white and i changed it back to blue using one-part brightside and i think i used sapphire blue which was just not quite dark enough, but the gelcote on the rest of the hull was pretty faded and it kind of blended. i'm sure imron or awlgrip has the exact match but not easy for a d.i.y. job. steve k. #196 |
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Re: Masthead light
Bob
Hi Eric,
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I recently purchased an LED Tri Anchor light. Gives you nav lights and an anchor light all in one unit. It is very bright (especially for an LED)and has .5 amp draw. They are a bit pricy but very nice. I haven't installed it yet but a friend of mine got one and he loves it. The photo diode automatically turns the anchor lite on and off when the sun goes down and up. They are built very solid as opposed to the plastic lights on most mastheads. If you google around you can find a deal or two. I got mine for just uder $300. Info is available at . Welcome to the group! Bob SV Gabba Hey 1964 #90 --- In T27Owners@..., "Eric Macom" <ericpmac@...> wrote:
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Re: Masthead light
Welcome Eric,
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Our hull (#328, I am a half owner as well) has no mast head light and I believe that was the way that Tartan made them initially. Yes, it is quite common on vessels of our vintage(s). You can add the mast head tricolor light if you want to be more 'compliant' with current CG lighting rules. If you are planning more long distance cruising then this is probably a good idea. I have not done this with our boat yet as we mostly race locally on the Hudson River. We always carry a flashlight so we can illuminate the sails if there is any question. If we ever blinded a tug boat captain with our lights and he hit us we would probably be found guilty for part of the blame though. Lights at the top of the mast can be a bit scary until you get used to them. I experienced this on a bigger boat (51') on the open ocean where the mast was rocking back and forth and it looked like a UFO above me. I got over it though and it was nice to be able to see the windex at night even if it was moving around. Night sailing on the ocean is a bit wicked on the senses. Caleb D. #328 'Odalisque', 1967, NY -----Original Message-----
From: Steve <skolar@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 11:32 pm Subject: [T27Owners] Re: Masthead light hi eric on a sailing vessel 20meters (about 60')or less a steaming light should be located about 15' or more off the deck facing forward on the mast. this light should not be displayed while under sail. a masthead (top of the mast) light could be a few different lights. all around white, anchor light. with no other nav. lights displayed. a tri-color light, stb. red, port green and stern white, while under only sail. the important detail to remember is if your engine is running or not. engine on, even if you have sails up, you are a power driven vessel and your lights should be displayed as such. engine off, sails up, port, starboard and stern light at deck level or tri-color at masthead. i would think it was common for the older tartans to have a switch for running lights, port and starboard lights (mine are on the dorad boxes) and stern and a seperate switch for just the steaming light. on my boat i have 3-switches for nav. lights, a switch for running lights (port,starboard,stern at deck level and steaming light up the mast) and a switch for the masthead tri-color light and a switch for the masthead anchor light. as a bonus the stern light of the tri-color light, lites up the windex hope this gave you some answers. as allways, consult the chapman seamanship bible, steve k. #196 --- In T27Owners@..., "Eric Macom" <ericpmac@...> wrote:
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Re: Masthead light
hi eric
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on a sailing vessel 20meters (about 60')or less a steaming light should be located about 15' or more off the deck facing forward on the mast. this light should not be displayed while under sail. a masthead (top of the mast) light could be a few different lights. all around white, anchor light. with no other nav. lights displayed. a tri-color light, stb. red, port green and stern white, while under only sail. the important detail to remember is if your engine is running or not. engine on, even if you have sails up, you are a power driven vessel and your lights should be displayed as such. engine off, sails up, port, starboard and stern light at deck level or tri-color at masthead. i would think it was common for the older tartans to have a switch for running lights, port and starboard lights (mine are on the dorad boxes) and stern and a seperate switch for just the steaming light. on my boat i have 3-switches for nav. lights, a switch for running lights (port,starboard,stern at deck level and steaming light up the mast) and a switch for the masthead tri-color light and a switch for the masthead anchor light. as a bonus the stern light of the tri-color light, lites up the windex hope this gave you some answers. as allways, consult the chapman seamanship bible, steve k. #196 --- In T27Owners@..., "Eric Macom" <ericpmac@...> wrote:
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Masthead light
Hello,
New to the group... have enjoyed reading through the many threads of discussion. As a recent co-owner of a T27 1978 vintage, I've just noticed that the boat has a steaming light but no light at the masthead. Would anyone know if this is common for this vintage? Has anyone undertaken the task of adding a light and wiring? Thanks, Eric |
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Re: Deck Recoring Project
--- On Sun, 9/21/08, Bob wrote: From: Bob |
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Re: Extra Portlights?
--- On Sun, 9/21/08, Bob wrote: From: Bob |
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Extra Portlights?
Bob
I am adding port lights to the v-berth and am trying to get them all to
match. Does anyone have one of your old origional aluminum or a set of 2 bronze 7"X14" (13 5/8" x 6 3/4" or slighty larger cutout) with trim ring, that they want to get rid of? I can trade a bronze 5"x12" (12.5" x 5.5" cutout) or cash. Bob SV Gabba Hey 1964 #90 |
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Re: Deck Recoring Project
Bob
Entire Starboard Side Deck is done(saving the seams)! Had to tackle
it myself today, but it went smoothly. Its cooling down quite abit here and it's also been cloudy the last couple days. Perfect weather for epoxying decks. I posted two more photos. One is of the weight pile of sand buckets, and paint cans. I've been piling on just enough weight spread out evenly (over seams and center) to just make epoxy squeeze out the seems. Don't worry about pretty seams yet as you will be grinding them out and taping and fairing them anyhow, just try and get them level with surrounding edges. I do find that the top skin and all will settle in about 1/8" after a few minutes of weight. The other photo shows one way a crazy boat owner in hot and humid NC deals with the Giant Yellow Death Orb (the sun). Took me just over a gallon of West System epoxy for the entire side deck. Hey Bill, How'd you do your seams? I'm planning on grinding a 4" bevel (2" on each side of seam). A layer of 2" fiberglass tape, 3" strip of chop mat, and then a layer of 4" fiberglass tape. Followed by lots of sanding and fairing. Bob SV Gabba Hey 1964 #90 |
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Re: Coring
Bob
Sounds like good technique. I would encourage the chop mat or some
kind of glass cloth. But I think you will be all right with your 7 gallons of epoxy. I read that the chop mat compresses well to help fill in between the old and new layers which can end up a little uneven from grinding. plus it's just more strength. I agree that the hard part is getting all the old balsa out from under the lips. A putty knife and flat head screw driver worked for me, plus a lot of time and digging. I'm not convinced on this foam stuff, so you go with the balsa. Like you said it will last at least another 45 years. Sealing it well is the key. My deck seems to be the same 1/2" thickness balsa for and aft of the chain plates. They must have switched some where from #80-#90. Also I use two buckets of sand, one at each end of the section and the rest is full paint cans with a few more paint cans piled on top. Put as much weight over the seams as in the middle to help the evenness. thanks for posting. Always good to hear how other did it. Bob SV Gabba Hey 1964 #90 --- In T27Owners@..., Bill Davis <backstay13@...> wrote: mine. ?done anything like this. I used a cordless skill saw (metal cutting blade) and cut off the top deck almost identical to the way Bob pictures show and you cannot get all the way to the rub rail or the cabin as the saw will not allow that and your don't want to, in my estimation. I worked on two approximately 3 foot sections at a time as West System seems to set up faster the larger the quantity. I peeled off the top layer of fiberglass and found some balsa was like brand new but most was like mush. You then have to remove all, not most but all of the old balsa especially next to the rub rail and cabin under the lips then I replaced it with balsa (I've been told I should have used foam but the next guy in 40 + years can worry about that) and lathered it up with West System then put the old deck back down. The key to putting it back together is you need plenty of weights (I believe Bob used buckets full of sand) to place on the old top until?the?WestSystem?sets up. Note that you will have significant fairing to do the more you don't get it level and even.?I didn't put enough weight on one section and ended up having to drill 30 odd holes and filling them several times with more West System. Also note that all my cabin tops and side decks aft of the chain plates were 1/2 inch balsa and forward of the chain plates was 3/4 inch balsa. I replaced them with the same size balsa and didn't have to use more glass. I filled all the gaps with hardened?West System and than faired as need. Scarlet isn't in the water yet but I bet the 7 odd gallons of epoxy will keep her in one piece for a long long time. ?out the old rotten balsa under the lips is the hard part! ?strand mat then the ply then another layer of mat then the original topskin? a bi-axle fabic be better or just over kill ?wrote: under the bow cleat as well as around the chain plates. The area aroundthe winch's is either a?plywood core or solid glass (I didn't open itup as it was solid).of? doing.cored?funds. likebutI can't say where or how much as mine is solid (not squishy mystartsdecks) and I'm not getting into them. andfiberglassrecoreing the roof of the cabin and asks is this solidhereor cored here or there, I would like to be able to give soundadvice,thats all. Iaroundwinter.don'thave to tap the boat rebuild fund I plan on doing it thisSo I can dream about fiberglass work, is the "area" LOL! glassthemast and hatch over the v-berth and it's side walls solid orbackcored ?coreing |
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Re: Coring
--- On Fri, 9/19/08, Steve wrote: From: Steve |
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Re: Coring
hi bill
so in rebuilding this sandwich, did you like bob after removing the skin and core and grinding the "liner" skin, lay down chopped strand mat then the ply then another layer of mat then the original top skin? does the mat have enough structural strenght for this job or would a bi-axle fabic be better or just over kill ? has anybody used mas epoxy? there formula doesn't produce the amine blush that has to be washed off for adding more layers or fairing epoxies? any and all input is welcomed steve k. #196 --- In T27Owners@..., Bill Davis <backstay13@...> wrote: the bow cleat as well as around the chain plates. The area around the winch's is either a?plywood core or solid glass (I didn't open it up as it was solid). ?doing. ?funds. But the opportunity of a free space inside a pole barn with aof a compressor.lot of mushy feeling decks under my feet and the "dull thump" of aboat sits, so don't know about that yet, but the bridge deck and cabintop sounded solid and the stern sounded solid up to the winch stands.and myalso patched a crude hole that was hacked out for a shore powerplugin the hanging locker. Some if not all of the cabin top is coredbutI can't say where or how much as mine is solid (not squishy like fiberglassdecks) and I'm not getting into them. Ihereor cored here or there, I would like to be able to give soundadvice,thats all. winter.don'thave to tap the boat rebuild fund I plan on doing it this backtheSo I can dream about fiberglass work, is the "area" LOL! aroundormast and hatch over the v-berth and it's side walls solid glasscored ?coreing Ireally don't remember coreing in the side walls. |
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Re: Coring
--- On Fri, 9/19/08, Steve wrote: From: Steve |
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Re: Hurricane Ike
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýYea, my goal was to basically immobilize everything on the boat that could be immobilized. ? Brian Greul Texas Shirt Company 713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax) Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand |
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Re: Coring
Bob
thanks for the info. well I might be starting this coreing project sooner than later. I didn't want to start the refit of my boat till I had all the funds. But the opportunity of a free space inside a pole barn with a concrete floor could be in my near future. It's not insulated or heated but the weather should be fine for the next month or two. Has anybody tried vacuum bagging ? west systems sell a kit with a venturi vacuum generator, runs off of a compressor. Spent a couple minutes on the deck this afternoon and there are a lot of mushy feeling decks under my feet and the "dull thump" of a plastic hammer really told the story. Foredeck and some side deck. Has anybody done their fore deck with also replacing that 2 x 4 that runs fore and aft under the deck ? The cockpit has about 2 inches of water in it, just the way the boat sits, so don't know about that yet, but the bridge deck and cabin top sounded solid and the stern sounded solid up to the winch stands. I was also happy to find that the areas around the chain plates sounded like solid glass. long enough post. Steve K. #196 --- In T27Owners@..., "Bob" <screeminbob@...> wrote: plug in the hanging locker. Some if not all of the cabin top is coredbut I can't say where or how much as mine is solid (not squishy like mythe ormast and hatch over the v-berth and it's side walls solid glass Icored ?coreing really don't remember coreing in the side walls. |
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Re: Hurricane Ike
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Re: coring
Bob
Billy Ray,
I don't care to trade but I can send you 5 feet of it when I'm done. It's 1.5 oz chop mat so make sure its thicker than what you have. Bob SV Gabba Hey 1964 #90 --- In T27Owners@..., Bill Davis <backstay13@...> wrote: thick?matt?for say 10 -20?feet of my thinner matt. That much would probably last me for years. I''ve finished about 98% of the glass work on Scarlet and I'm not looking for any more fiberglass projects for a long long time. It makes me itch just typing this email! ? |
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