Re: Hinged Mast alternatives??
Hull 593 has a hinged mast. The mast was cut about 8 inches above the deck and a hinge inserted. We expected to need stays on the boom but they carried no load when lowering.?
Doubled the topping lift with the main halyard.
Lowered to pulpit.
Un pinned hinge and set on the dock.
Had the bow line tight so the mast head came down over the dock.
Had two friend to help with pitching and catching.
Boom at 90 degrees.
Handy arrangement.? Had planned to build an A-frame but found this boat and the hinge was a bonus.
Engineering drawing show how to dip the mast head for fixed bridges to 45 degrees.
Makes Hurricane storage easy...
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Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
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Re: What size wire rope do you use for the centerboard pennant?
Hello Jeremy,
Oh OK. The two models do have many very subtle differences. You are welcome! Good luck on the project!
Fred
On Thursday, February 6, 2020, 03:06:13 PM EST, <jeremy@...> wrote:
Fred,
I looked into this option more. I have a much older boat with an external lead keel. For that design there is barely any clearance between the lead keel and the centerboard where the pennant attaches. So there isn't room to use a shackle. I guess that is why they designed the cable to enter through the top of the board instead of using a shackle.
Thanks for the idea though!
- jeremy
On Wed, Feb 5, 2020 at 3:53 PM fred4936 via Groups.Io <fred4936= [email protected]> wrote:
When I do mine, I put a thimble on both ends of the wire, then use the appropriate oval? sleeves, making sure the wire sticks out at least one diameter of the wire.. From the eye w/thimble I found a shackle that just fits inside the trunk, The pin is wired in place so it can't back out. Hope this helps.
Fred Liesegang Eagle #662
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020, 03:23:50 PM EST, < jeremy@...> wrote:
Ahoy!
I am inching ever closer to having a working solution. I have one more question. How small should I make the loop at the end of the cable? For some reason that I do not understand, I am supposed to use an oval sleeve instead of a stop sleeve. With the oval sleeve I have to make a loop at the end? of the cable-- even though the loop doesn't go around anything. Looking at the minimum bending radius for a 1/8" 7x19 wire, that loop should have a pretty big radius -- 2-5/8". Clearly a loop that big won't fit inside the 0.5" pipe in the centerboard. Since the loop isn't load bearing, perhaps I should just make it as small as possible? Or should I make the loop big and it just sticks out the side and rubs on the centerboard trunk (potentially getting caught on stuff?). Or maybe I am missing something? - jeremy On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 4:46 PM Jeremy Shaw < jeremy@...> wrote: Hello,
What size wire do you use for the centerboard pennant. I originally ordered the replacement cable from Tartan, but it seems it is only 1/8". That has a working load of 340lbs and a breaking strength around 1760lbs -- so, it should be plenty. But is it worthwhile to go up to a larger size ?
At what point is the diameter too big?
I know some people are experimenting with dyneema, but I am going to wait to hear how that works out before making the switch. Among other things, last time I got hauled out I couldn't drop my centerboard because a bunch of mussels, barnacles, or other hard, pointy things started growing in the centerboard trunk and actually jammed the centerboard in place.
If those things started scraping on my centerboard pennant, I think stainless steel would fair better than dyneema.
- jeremy
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Re: What size wire rope do you use for the centerboard pennant?
Fred,
I looked into this option more. I have a much older boat with an external lead keel. For that design there is barely any clearance between the lead keel and the centerboard where the pennant attaches. So there isn't room to use a shackle. I guess that is why they designed the cable to enter through the top of the board instead of using a shackle.
Thanks for the idea though!
- jeremy
On Wed, Feb 5, 2020 at 3:53 PM fred4936 via Groups.Io <fred4936= [email protected]> wrote:
When I do mine, I put a thimble on both ends of the wire, then use the appropriate oval? sleeves, making sure the wire sticks out at least one diameter of the wire.. From the eye w/thimble I found a shackle that just fits inside the trunk, The pin is wired in place so it can't back out. Hope this helps.
Fred Liesegang Eagle #662
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020, 03:23:50 PM EST, < jeremy@...> wrote:
Ahoy!
I am inching ever closer to having a working solution. I have one more question. How small should I make the loop at the end of the cable? For some reason that I do not understand, I am supposed to use an oval sleeve instead of a stop sleeve. With the oval sleeve I have to make a loop at the end? of the cable-- even though the loop doesn't go around anything. Looking at the minimum bending radius for a 1/8" 7x19 wire, that loop should have a pretty big radius -- 2-5/8". Clearly a loop that big won't fit inside the 0.5" pipe in the centerboard. Since the loop isn't load bearing, perhaps I should just make it as small as possible? Or should I make the loop big and it just sticks out the side and rubs on the centerboard trunk (potentially getting caught on stuff?). Or maybe I am missing something? - jeremy On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 4:46 PM Jeremy Shaw < jeremy@...> wrote: Hello,
What size wire do you use for the centerboard pennant. I originally ordered the replacement cable from Tartan, but it seems it is only 1/8". That has a working load of 340lbs and a breaking strength around 1760lbs -- so, it should be plenty. But is it worthwhile to go up to a larger size ?
At what point is the diameter too big?
I know some people are experimenting with dyneema, but I am going to wait to hear how that works out before making the switch. Among other things, last time I got hauled out I couldn't drop my centerboard because a bunch of mussels, barnacles, or other hard, pointy things started growing in the centerboard trunk and actually jammed the centerboard in place.
If those things started scraping on my centerboard pennant, I think stainless steel would fair better than dyneema.
- jeremy
|
Re: What size wire rope do you use for the centerboard pennant?
I have considered that approach. One advantage of that solution is that it makes it easier to remove the centerboard for painting or other maintenance without having to cut and recrimp. On the other hand, I will probably only drop the centerboard every 5 to 10 years -- and so it will probably need a new pennant cable anyway. My boat normally lives on a cradle when it is hauled. I can't drop the centerboard there, so it is something I have to go out of my way to do.
- jeremy
On Wed, Feb 5, 2020 at 3:53 PM fred4936 via Groups.Io <fred4936= [email protected]> wrote:
When I do mine, I put a thimble on both ends of the wire, then use the appropriate oval? sleeves, making sure the wire sticks out at least one diameter of the wire.. From the eye w/thimble I found a shackle that just fits inside the trunk, The pin is wired in place so it can't back out. Hope this helps.
Fred Liesegang Eagle #662
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020, 03:23:50 PM EST, < jeremy@...> wrote:
Ahoy!
I am inching ever closer to having a working solution. I have one more question. How small should I make the loop at the end of the cable? For some reason that I do not understand, I am supposed to use an oval sleeve instead of a stop sleeve. With the oval sleeve I have to make a loop at the end? of the cable-- even though the loop doesn't go around anything. Looking at the minimum bending radius for a 1/8" 7x19 wire, that loop should have a pretty big radius -- 2-5/8". Clearly a loop that big won't fit inside the 0.5" pipe in the centerboard. Since the loop isn't load bearing, perhaps I should just make it as small as possible? Or should I make the loop big and it just sticks out the side and rubs on the centerboard trunk (potentially getting caught on stuff?). Or maybe I am missing something? - jeremy On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 4:46 PM Jeremy Shaw < jeremy@...> wrote: Hello,
What size wire do you use for the centerboard pennant. I originally ordered the replacement cable from Tartan, but it seems it is only 1/8". That has a working load of 340lbs and a breaking strength around 1760lbs -- so, it should be plenty. But is it worthwhile to go up to a larger size ?
At what point is the diameter too big?
I know some people are experimenting with dyneema, but I am going to wait to hear how that works out before making the switch. Among other things, last time I got hauled out I couldn't drop my centerboard because a bunch of mussels, barnacles, or other hard, pointy things started growing in the centerboard trunk and actually jammed the centerboard in place.
If those things started scraping on my centerboard pennant, I think stainless steel would fair better than dyneema.
- jeremy
|
Re: What size wire rope do you use for the centerboard pennant?
When I do mine, I put a thimble on both ends of the wire, then use the appropriate oval? sleeves, making sure the wire sticks out at least one diameter of the wire.. From the eye w/thimble I found a shackle that just fits inside the trunk, The pin is wired in place so it can't back out. Hope this helps.
Fred Liesegang Eagle #662
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020, 03:23:50 PM EST, <jeremy@...> wrote:
Ahoy!
I am inching ever closer to having a working solution. I have one more question. How small should I make the loop at the end of the cable? For some reason that I do not understand, I am supposed to use an oval sleeve instead of a stop sleeve. With the oval sleeve I have to make a loop at the end? of the cable-- even though the loop doesn't go around anything. Looking at the minimum bending radius for a 1/8" 7x19 wire, that loop should have a pretty big radius -- 2-5/8". Clearly a loop that big won't fit inside the 0.5" pipe in the centerboard. Since the loop isn't load bearing, perhaps I should just make it as small as possible? Or should I make the loop big and it just sticks out the side and rubs on the centerboard trunk (potentially getting caught on stuff?). Or maybe I am missing something? - jeremy
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 4:46 PM Jeremy Shaw < jeremy@...> wrote: Hello,
What size wire do you use for the centerboard pennant. I originally ordered the replacement cable from Tartan, but it seems it is only 1/8". That has a working load of 340lbs and a breaking strength around 1760lbs -- so, it should be plenty. But is it worthwhile to go up to a larger size ?
At what point is the diameter too big?
I know some people are experimenting with dyneema, but I am going to wait to hear how that works out before making the switch. Among other things, last time I got hauled out I couldn't drop my centerboard because a bunch of mussels, barnacles, or other hard, pointy things started growing in the centerboard trunk and actually jammed the centerboard in place.
If those things started scraping on my centerboard pennant, I think stainless steel would fair better than dyneema.
- jeremy
|
Re: What size wire rope do you use for the centerboard pennant?
Ahoy!
I am inching ever closer to having a working solution. I have one more question. How small should I make the loop at the end of the cable? For some reason that I do not understand, I am supposed to use an oval sleeve instead of a stop sleeve. With the oval sleeve I have to make a loop at the end? of the cable-- even though the loop doesn't go around anything. Looking at the minimum bending radius for a 1/8" 7x19 wire, that loop should have a pretty big radius -- 2-5/8". Clearly a loop that big won't fit inside the 0.5" pipe in the centerboard. Since the loop isn't load bearing, perhaps I should just make it as small as possible? Or should I make the loop big and it just sticks out the side and rubs on the centerboard trunk (potentially getting caught on stuff?). Or maybe I am missing something? - jeremy
On Sat, Jan 25, 2020 at 4:46 PM Jeremy Shaw < jeremy@...> wrote: Hello,
What size wire do you use for the centerboard pennant. I originally ordered the replacement cable from Tartan, but it seems it is only 1/8". That has a working load of 340lbs and a breaking strength around 1760lbs -- so, it should be plenty. But is it worthwhile to go up to a larger size ?
At what point is the diameter too big?
I know some people are experimenting with dyneema, but I am going to wait to hear how that works out before making the switch. Among other things, last time I got hauled out I couldn't drop my centerboard because a bunch of mussels, barnacles, or other hard, pointy things started growing in the centerboard trunk and actually jammed the centerboard in place.
If those things started scraping on my centerboard pennant, I think stainless steel would fair better than dyneema.
- jeremy
|
Of those who might have the Farymann diesel, has anyone experienced carbon buildup at the exhaust elbo?? I see where this is a problem on other diesel engines
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Re: T-27 equipment for sale
So far nobody has said they wanted to buy it. Just asked questions. I dont even have a price for it. Open to suggestion. You can use rickg1952@... if it is easier.? Thanks, Rick? ??
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 8:33 PM Carl Damm < cfdamm@...> wrote: I could be second inline for the tiller head if lm53187 doesn't take it. Mine is worn but working.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
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Re: T-27 equipment for sale
I could be second inline for the tiller head if lm53187 doesn't take it. Mine is worn but working.
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
|
Re: T-27 equipment for sale
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Show quoted text
On Feb 3, 2020, at 11:49 AM, Rick Gengarelly <rickg1952@...> wrote:
? On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 11:43 AM Warren Stein via Groups.Io <wrsteinesq= [email protected]> wrote: Rick, I had asked about the teak cockpit sole.? Is it available?? What would you ask for it?? Thanks! On Feb 3, 2020, at 11:27 AM, Rick Gengarelly <rickg1952@...> wrote:
? That I have. I havent priced it. If your interested I will gladly.? Thanks, Rick On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 11:21 AM lm53187 < muellerl@...> wrote: What about the fitting/connection between the rudder post and tiller??
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Re: T-27 equipment for sale
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Show quoted text
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 11:50 AM < jeremy@...> wrote: Do you have this mechanism that goes on the end of the boom?
- jeremy
On Sat, Feb 1, 2020 at 10:03 AM Rick Gengarelly < rickg1952@...> wrote: Mast, boom, standing rigging, stanchions with lines, tiller, sails, teak cockpit sole, etc.. reasonable prices..??
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Re: T-27 equipment for sale
Do you have this mechanism that goes on the end of the boom?
- jeremy
On Sat, Feb 1, 2020 at 10:03 AM Rick Gengarelly < rickg1952@...> wrote: Mast, boom, standing rigging, stanchions with lines, tiller, sails, teak cockpit sole, etc.. reasonable prices..??
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Re: T-27 equipment for sale
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Show quoted text
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 11:43 AM Warren Stein via Groups.Io <wrsteinesq= [email protected]> wrote: Rick, I had asked about the teak cockpit sole.? Is it available?? What would you ask for it?? Thanks! On Feb 3, 2020, at 11:27 AM, Rick Gengarelly <rickg1952@...> wrote:
? That I have. I havent priced it. If your interested I will gladly.? Thanks, Rick On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 11:21 AM lm53187 < muellerl@...> wrote: What about the fitting/connection between the rudder post and tiller??
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Re: T-27 equipment for sale
Rick, I had asked about the teak cockpit sole. ?Is it available? ?What would you ask for it? ?Thanks!
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On Feb 3, 2020, at 11:27 AM, Rick Gengarelly <rickg1952@...> wrote:
? That I have. I havent priced it. If your interested I will gladly.? Thanks, Rick On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 11:21 AM lm53187 < muellerl@...> wrote: What about the fitting/connection between the rudder post and tiller??
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Re: T-27 equipment for sale
That I have. I havent priced it. If your interested I will gladly.? Thanks, Rick
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 11:21 AM lm53187 < muellerl@...> wrote: What about the fitting/connection between the rudder post and tiller??
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Re: T-27 equipment for sale
What about the fitting/connection between the rudder post and tiller??
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Re: T-27 equipment for sale
No rudder. It would have been an excellent part to keep but couldnt under the circumstances. Sorry.?
Rick
On Sun, Feb 2, 2020 at 7:57 PM Carl Damm < cfdamm@...> wrote: Rudder??
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
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Re: T-27 equipment for sale
Rudder??
--
Carl Damm
DAMSELv
1976 #593
Stuart Fl
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On Sat, Feb 1, 2020 at 9:19 PM David Smith < dsmith@...> wrote:
Hi Rick.
Are there hank on or for a roller furling?
Thanks..? Dave
David Smith
Professor of Art
Edgewood College
CAUTION: This email did not originate from Edgewood College. Do not click links or open attachments unless you've verified the content is safe.
I have very usable working jib and genoa with no tears from my Tartan 27 for cheap; $25 each.?
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