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Re: Thru Hulls

 

Caleb,
?
Wallowed out is the wrong description. The holes were simply drilled to large originally. I believe I will try to put a little glass mat in first and then thread them using the new bronze thru hulls. If I fill them completely I then have to invest in yet another hole saw. I already have about 9 different sizes, none being what I need save the new one I have already bought for the 3/4 replacement. Note that?you need a?slightly smaller one for it to work correctly. I don't recall the exact size for those who are interested.
?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79


--- On Wed, 8/27/08, calebjess@... wrote:
From: calebjess@...
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Thru Hulls
To: T27Owners@...
Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 3:28 PM

Billy Ray,
I am not quite sure what you mean by 'wallowed' but I get the idea that
the hull is not in such great shape where the thru hull used to be.
You could use 5200 to patch it up. If it were me I wold want to sand
the hull to removed the 'wallowed' parts and then I would use the West
System w/colloidal silica AND cloth to completely cover the old hole
(build up several layers of cloth to hull thickness). I would then
re-drill the holes (3/4" and 1 1/4").
In terms of replacement hardware and installation I would follow most
of the advice on this guys website:

He has some great info on the hardware and excellent pictures detailing
the installation process.
I should add his page to the links section if I have not done so
already.
Good luck and let us know how it works out for you.

Caleb Davison
T27 #328 Odalisque

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Davis <backstay13@yahoo. com>
To: T27Owners@yahoogrou ps.com
Sent: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 1:29 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Thru Hulls

Guys,

I am still in the middle of replacing all 7 original thru hulls. Two of
the original openings (one 3/4 and one 1 1/4) are so wallowed out that
I will have to use a boat load of 5200 sealer to assure they will stay
in place. I am considering using some of the West System epoxy and
fairing compound to line the holes and there by assure a better, firmer
seal with the 5200. I'm sure someone has dealt with a similar issue?
Your opinions would be welcome. I have some thin glass mat that I may
be able to line the holes with. Would that make more sense?

Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79
Re: Thru Hulls

 

Billy Ray,
I am not quite sure what you mean by 'wallowed' but I get the idea that the hull is not in such great shape where the thru hull used to be.
You could use 5200 to patch it up. If it were me I wold want to sand the hull to removed the 'wallowed' parts and then I would use the West System w/colloidal silica AND cloth to completely cover the old hole (build up several layers of cloth to hull thickness). I would then re-drill the holes (3/4" and 1 1/4").
In terms of replacement hardware and installation I would follow most of the advice on this guys website:
He has some great info on the hardware and excellent pictures detailing the installation process.
I should add his page to the links section if I have not done so already.
Good luck and let us know how it works out for you.

Caleb Davison
T27 #328 Odalisque

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Davis <backstay13@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 1:29 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Thru Hulls

Guys,

I am still in the middle of replacing all 7 original thru hulls. Two of the original openings (one 3/4 and one 1 1/4) are so wallowed out that I will have to use a boat load of 5200 sealer to assure they will stay in place. I am considering using some of the West System epoxy and fairing compound to line the holes and there by assure a better, firmer seal with the 5200. I'm sure someone has dealt with a similar issue? Your opinions would be welcome. I have some thin glass mat that I may be able to line the holes with. Would that make more sense?

Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79
Re: Thru Hulls

 

Steve,
?
Having just pulled out?my 1964 original thru hulls I'm glad I did. In fact I'm sure I would have been in trouble if I had not. My thru hulls were in fact pipe nibs with opposing threads on both ends. Only two were difficult to extract but two came out virtually by hand with the original caulk just crumbling away. The next time you have her out of the water just put a big pipe wrench on one and it likely will come out with very little effort. I elected to go from?1/2 to 3/4 on both the sink drain and the engine intake. Both were clogged up, I discovered.
?
I keep promising to post some pictures and will try again but without Internet access at home?and I can't do it at work, it may be awhile.
?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79
?
PS: Thanks Chris and my complements to whoever posted all those pictures recently. I'm impressed with your interior work and envious.


--- On Wed, 8/27/08, Steven Cook wrote:
From: Steven Cook
Subject: RE: [T27Owners] Thru Hulls
To: t27owners@...
Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 2:28 PM

I was wondering if others have photos of their thu hull replacements?
?
I have all the originals in my Hull #220.
?
Replacement of these is on my 2 year to-do list

Often a pic. is worth a thousand words
?
Steve



To: T27Owners@yahoogrou ps.com
From: uni@cyburban. com
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:18:58 -0400
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Thru Hulls


My two cents worth on what I think you are talking about.
?
Sealer is a product that is used to seal small distances between two surfaces. An example is where a threaded fitting is threaded into a bronze thru hull in the full. Sealant is used where the fitting is attached and is in contact with the hull. If the annular area, that is the space in between the ID of the hole and the OD of the fitting, going through the hole is large, maybe using an epoxy filler with the correct fill to make it stronger is the solution. I do not like large open areas that do not have some component of added strength to them. In fact, one might want to put some glass inside the hull, fill the areas that should be filled and drill the correct size hole to receiver the fitting, might be a good idea. I have done this many time on many boats over the years.
?
I had to replace my center board cable etc. this year. I will not go into the board component of the problem and the resulting solution, but will address the pipe part of the problem.
?
What is meant by the pipe part of the problem? The pipe part of the problem is where the cable has warn through the pipe nipple that is "glassed into the centerboard housing in keel. In may case the pipe was worn through to the point that it was cutting the glass attachment to the trunk. I removed the nipple that was in the boat. I bought a new bronze one. Since the id of the nipple is large and the wire smaller, I found a bronze reducer and a smaller pipe nipple that fit inside the nipple going into the trunk. I found that the angle of the small nipple when installed was not true to what I thought it should be. As a result, I used a hammer and hit the outside of the adapter into the hole of the larger nipple but with out a supper hard blow, but also making sure that it was in line with what I felt the cable should go is goes. This fix permits the smaller nipple to be a wear time and something that should be check prior to putting the boat in the water in the Spring and more so replaced if any wear is found on this smaller pipe. I think that if the cable is good, then the replacement is very easy for the smaller pipe nipple.
?
Now the big stuff relative the place whereby the cable has cut through the large pipe nipple and into the trunk. Replace the pipe as above. Prior to inserting it for good to some degree, apply some light lub on the threads of the nipple. Then take a small amount of epoxy and apply it to where the threaded hole is in the trunk that is cut. Apply some of the epoxy to the lubed fitting. Screw it in to the place where you want it and do not make it too tight. Let the epoxy get hard and remove the nipple. The inside of the threaded section should look good and be a complete encasement or more so the threads of the trunk should be 100%defined. That means with some sealant on the cleaned threaded surfaces, you will not have a leaking nipple in the board.
?
I use a piece of hose that fits the top of the nipple. It goes up into the area next to the centerboard winch. At the end, for some reason unknown to me, I put another piece of smaller hose of a plastic nipple to take the wear on that end. I set it up so the wire cable goes through, but when wound?never touches the plastic nipple over the cable.
?
That is the short of the fix.
?
One thing with a new cable and the swage end in the board, make sure that one attempts to make the covering of the hole where the swage is as well as where the cable goes through the end or top of the board as water proof as possible with a sealant that will take paint as one has to prime the board and paint it with antiflolowing paint, like Micron 66. Note that you have to do the inside of the trunk as well.
?
Regards,
Chris Becker
Tartan 27, Number 511 1971
?
?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Davis
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 1:29 PM
Subject: [T27Owners] Thru Hulls

Guys,
?
I am still in the middle of replacing all 7 original?thru hulls. Two of the original openings (one 3/4 and one 1 1/4) are so?wallowed out?that I will have to use a boat load of 5200 sealer to assure they will stay in place. I am considering using some of the West System epoxy and fairing compound to line the holes and there by assure a better, firmer seal with the 5200. I'm sure someone has dealt with a similar issue? Your opinions would be welcome. I have some thin glass mat that I?may be able to?line the holes with. Would that make more sense?
?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79




See what people are saying about Windows Live. Check out featured posts.

Re: Thru Hulls

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I was wondering if others have photos of their thu hull replacements?
?
I have all the originals in my Hull #220.
?
Replacement of these is on my 2 year to-do list

Often a pic. is worth a thousand words
?
Steve



To: T27Owners@...
From: uni@...
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:18:58 -0400
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Thru Hulls


My two cents worth on what I think you are talking about.
?
Sealer is a product that is used to seal small distances between two surfaces. An example is where a threaded fitting is threaded into a bronze thru hull in the full. Sealant is used where the fitting is attached and is in contact with the hull. If the annular area, that is the space in between the ID of the hole and the OD of the fitting, going through the hole is large, maybe using an epoxy filler with the correct fill to make it stronger is the solution. I do not like large open areas that do not have some component of added strength to them. In fact, one might want to put some glass inside the hull, fill the areas that should be filled and drill the correct size hole to receiver the fitting, might be a good idea. I have done this many time on many boats over the years.
?
I had to replace my center board cable etc. this year. I will not go into the board component of the problem and the resulting solution, but will address the pipe part of the problem.
?
What is meant by the pipe part of the problem? The pipe part of the problem is where the cable has warn through the pipe nipple that is "glassed into the centerboard housing in keel. In may case the pipe was worn through to the point that it was cutting the glass attachment to the trunk. I removed the nipple that was in the boat. I bought a new bronze one. Since the id of the nipple is large and the wire smaller, I found a bronze reducer and a smaller pipe nipple that fit inside the nipple going into the trunk. I found that the angle of the small nipple when installed was not true to what I thought it should be. As a result, I used a hammer and hit the outside of the adapter into the hole of the larger nipple but with out a supper hard blow, but also making sure that it was in line with what I felt the cable should go is goes. This fix permits the smaller nipple to be a wear time and something that should be check prior to putting the boat in the water in the Spring and more so replaced if any wear is found on this smaller pipe. I think that if the cable is good, then the replacement is very easy for the smaller pipe nipple.
?
Now the big stuff relative the place whereby the cable has cut through the large pipe nipple and into the trunk. Replace the pipe as above. Prior to inserting it for good to some degree, apply some light lub on the threads of the nipple. Then take a small amount of epoxy and apply it to where the threaded hole is in the trunk that is cut. Apply some of the epoxy to the lubed fitting. Screw it in to the place where you want it and do not make it too tight. Let the epoxy get hard and remove the nipple. The inside of the threaded section should look good and be a complete encasement or more so the threads of the trunk should be 100% defined. That means with some sealant on the cleaned threaded surfaces, you will not have a leaking nipple in the board.
?
I use a piece of hose that fits the top of the nipple. It goes up into the area next to the centerboard winch. At the end, for some reason unknown to me, I put another piece of smaller hose of a plastic nipple to take the wear on that end. I set it up so the wire cable goes through, but when wound?never touches the plastic nipple over the cable.
?
That is the short of the fix.
?
One thing with a new cable and the swage end in the board, make sure that one attempts to make the covering of the hole where the swage is as well as where the cable goes through the end or top of the board as water proof as possible with a sealant that will take paint as one has to prime the board and paint it with antiflolowing paint, like Micron 66. Note that you have to do the inside of the trunk as well.
?
Regards,
Chris Becker
Tartan 27, Number 511 1971
?
?
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Davis
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 1:29 PM
Subject: [T27Owners] Thru Hulls

Guys,
?
I am still in the middle of replacing all 7 original?thru hulls. Two of the original openings (one 3/4 and one 1 1/4) are so?wallowed out?that I will have to use a boat load of 5200 sealer to assure they will stay in place. I am considering using some of the West System epoxy and fairing compound to line the holes and there by assure a better, firmer seal with the 5200. I'm sure someone has dealt with a similar issue? Your opinions would be welcome. I have some thin glass mat that I?may be able to?line the holes with. Would that make more sense?
?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79




See what people are saying about Windows Live. Check out featured posts.

Re: Thru Hulls

CHRISTIAN BECKER
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

My two cents worth on what I think you are talking about.
?
Sealer is a product that is used to seal small distances between two surfaces. An example is where a threaded fitting is threaded into a bronze thru hull in the full. Sealant is used where the fitting is attached and is in contact with the hull. If the annular area, that is the space in between the ID of the hole and the OD of the fitting, going through the hole is large, maybe using an epoxy filler with the correct fill to make it stronger is the solution. I do not like large open areas that do not have some component of added strength to them. In fact, one might want to put some glass inside the hull, fill the areas that should be filled and drill the correct size hole to receiver the fitting, might be a good idea. I have done this many time on many boats over the years.
?
I had to replace my center board cable etc. this year. I will not go into the board component of the problem and the resulting solution, but will address the pipe part of the problem.
?
What is meant by the pipe part of the problem? The pipe part of the problem is where the cable has warn through the pipe nipple that is "glassed into the centerboard housing in keel. In may case the pipe was worn through to the point that it was cutting the glass attachment to the trunk. I removed the nipple that was in the boat. I bought a new bronze one. Since the id of the nipple is large and the wire smaller, I found a bronze reducer and a smaller pipe nipple that fit inside the nipple going into the trunk. I found that the angle of the small nipple when installed was not true to what I thought it should be. As a result, I used a hammer and hit the outside of the adapter into the hole of the larger nipple but with out a supper hard blow, but also making sure that it was in line with what I felt the cable should go is goes. This fix permits the smaller nipple to be a wear time and something that should be check prior to putting the boat in the water in the Spring and more so replaced if any wear is found on this smaller pipe. I think that if the cable is good, then the replacement is very easy for the smaller pipe nipple.
?
Now the big stuff relative the place whereby the cable has cut through the large pipe nipple and into the trunk. Replace the pipe as above. Prior to inserting it for good to some degree, apply some light lub on the threads of the nipple. Then take a small amount of epoxy and apply it to where the threaded hole is in the trunk that is cut. Apply some of the epoxy to the lubed fitting. Screw it in to the place where you want it and do not make it too tight. Let the epoxy get hard and remove the nipple. The inside of the threaded section should look good and be a complete encasement or more so the threads of the trunk should be 100% defined. That means with some sealant on the cleaned threaded surfaces, you will not have a leaking nipple in the board.
?
I use a piece of hose that fits the top of the nipple. It goes up into the area next to the centerboard winch. At the end, for some reason unknown to me, I put another piece of smaller hose of a plastic nipple to take the wear on that end. I set it up so the wire cable goes through, but when wound?never touches the plastic nipple over the cable.
?
That is the short of the fix.
?
One thing with a new cable and the swage end in the board, make sure that one attempts to make the covering of the hole where the swage is as well as where the cable goes through the end or top of the board as water proof as possible with a sealant that will take paint as one has to prime the board and paint it with antiflolowing paint, like Micron 66. Note that you have to do the inside of the trunk as well.
?
Regards,
Chris Becker
Tartan 27, Number 511 1971
?
?

----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Davis
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 1:29 PM
Subject: [T27Owners] Thru Hulls

Guys,
?
I am still in the middle of replacing all 7 original?thru hulls. Two of the original openings (one 3/4 and one 1 1/4) are so?wallowed out?that I will have to use a boat load of 5200 sealer to assure they will stay in place. I am considering using some of the West System epoxy and fairing compound to line the holes and there by assure a better, firmer seal with the 5200. I'm sure someone has dealt with a similar issue? Your opinions would be welcome. I have some thin glass mat that I?may be able to?line the holes with. Would that make more sense?
?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79
Thru Hulls

 

Guys,
?
I am still in the middle of replacing all 7 original?thru hulls. Two of the original openings (one 3/4 and one 1 1/4) are so?wallowed out?that I will have to use a boat load of 5200 sealer to assure they will stay in place. I am considering using some of the West System epoxy and fairing compound to line the holes and there by assure a better, firmer seal with the 5200. I'm sure someone has dealt with a similar issue? Your opinions would be welcome. I have some thin glass mat that I?may be able to?line the holes with. Would that make more sense?
?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79
Re: Running Rigging

ksmith4312
 

--- In T27Owners@..., "daiksan" <daiksan@...> wrote:

--- In T27Owners@..., "ksmith4312" <ksmith4312@> wrote:

I have hull #442 1970. There are two halyards I suspect are for
additional head sails. The configuration is: Regular foresail
hank
on
with halyard, then a halyard running from just below the masthead
to
the front of the mast has a lot of line, for spinnaker maybe?
then
another halyard located below the spreaders also with a lot of
line.

The history I have read indicates a performance boat built to
race
on
the bay in maryland. So I am thinking these two were added for
more
sail. All the foresails on board are hank on, do not see even a
pair
of
John Candy's pants LOL. Oh and no spinnaker/whisker poles on
board.
I think youi are correct, the upper is a spiniker, and the lower
is
probably a topping lift for the pole that is no longer there. g
good luck, daiksan 156
daiksan 156:

Thanks, kind of figured that was it just wanted
confirmation my thinking was correct.
Re: Icebox condensation

 


Thanks for posting the pics, they gave me some great ideas..... The icebox issues seem to be a (pardon the pun) hot topic.
?I hated removing it at the time especially after spending a lot of time trying to get it to stop leaking but was happy once i saw the space open up...... I actually removed the cockpit hatch and glassed over the? area...It seemed to be a major source of water intrusion.
?The diverter valve is a great idea as is the holding tank.. I have a rubber bladder under the stb V-berth directly in fron of the head which leads to a jumble of hoses so? I will eventually have to replumb.

Rich
Re: Icebox condensation

Bob
 

Rich,
I posted a couple pics of the pantry on the photo page. I haven't
made doors yet. The diverter valve in the upper right will allow for
rain collection from the deck scuppers to the water tank in the V-
birth. The upper left locker has room for a small 12 pac cooler. Make
sure you can open the lid of the cooler when accessing from the
cockpit hatch. My first cooler ran into this problem. You can see
that the lower locker is quite large. One could make a roomy single
locker or closet here as well, good spot for a wet locker too.
I also posted a pic of my custom holding tank in the head. Turned out
nicely and still a comfortable sit on the toilet, though you can't
stretch out too much.
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90


--- In T27Owners@..., Richard Shearley <rshearley@...>
wrote:

Bob do you happen to have any pictures of your pantry?
I'm in the process of doing something similar without the top
access feature...

Thanks,
Rich
Re: Ice box

daiksan
 

--- In T27Owners@..., "ksmith4312" <ksmith4312@...> wrote:

If you take it out might as well rebed the coaming and anything else
that is blocked by the icebox. Mine just started driping
yesterday.
My guess is it is a leak from the port coaming, that has saturated
the
insulation. Sure do not want to redo the icebox. Espeically as I
use
it more for a pantry than anything else.
Be careful, 156 has a thru hull fitting there, behind the ice box,
for the deck drain/ice box drain. impossible to reach
daiksan 156
Re: Running Rigging

daiksan
 

--- In T27Owners@..., "ksmith4312" <ksmith4312@...> wrote:

I have hull #442 1970. There are two halyards I suspect are for
additional head sails. The configuration is: Regular foresail hank
on
with halyard, then a halyard running from just below the masthead to
the front of the mast has a lot of line, for spinnaker maybe? then
another halyard located below the spreaders also with a lot of line.

The history I have read indicates a performance boat built to race
on
the bay in maryland. So I am thinking these two were added for more
sail. All the foresails on board are hank on, do not see even a pair
of
John Candy's pants LOL. Oh and no spinnaker/whisker poles on board.
I think youi are correct, the upper is a spiniker, and the lower is
probably a topping lift for the pole that is no longer there. g
good luck, daiksan 156
Running Rigging

ksmith4312
 

I have hull #442 1970. There are two halyards I suspect are for
additional head sails. The configuration is: Regular foresail hank on
with halyard, then a halyard running from just below the masthead to
the front of the mast has a lot of line, for spinnaker maybe? then
another halyard located below the spreaders also with a lot of line.

The history I have read indicates a performance boat built to race on
the bay in maryland. So I am thinking these two were added for more
sail. All the foresails on board are hank on, do not see even a pair of
John Candy's pants LOL. Oh and no spinnaker/whisker poles on board.
Ice box

ksmith4312
 

If you take it out might as well rebed the coaming and anything else
that is blocked by the icebox. Mine just started driping yesterday.
My guess is it is a leak from the port coaming, that has saturated the
insulation. Sure do not want to redo the icebox. Espeically as I use
it more for a pantry than anything else.
Re: Icebox condensation

 

Bob do you happen to have any pictures of your pantry?
I'm in the process of doing something similar without the top access feature...

Thanks,
Rich
Re: Icebox condensation

 

Scott-Duplicate your box in glass.Rap with 2-4" rigid
close cell foam .Add 2 knee braces to bulkhead and to
stainless tabs to the edge where the cabin turns and
hang your new box.The ice box almost cools without
ice.
R.E.W
--- Bob <screeminbob@...> wrote:e

Hi Scott,
Most likely all your condensation is actually
collecting inside the
insulation making a nice mess of things, and leaking
out.
Unfortunately the way the icebox is mounted (glass
tabbed) makes it
very difficult to redo the insulation. You'll end up
cutting it out
any way. also the Stainless liner is very thin and
probably wouldn't
survive the redo. A drip tray would only be a
bandaid and not fix the
problem. I installed a 3 locker pantry (2 uppers and
a large lower)
with the upper left locker still being accessed
through the cockpit
hatch. I can fit a small cooler for drinks and such
in this locker.
You can make the locker larger to fit a larger
cooler.
Best of luck,
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

--- In T27Owners@..., "Scott Kendall"
<thephoenix215@...>
wrote:

Does anyone have a solution for the condensation
that forms on the
bottom of the AFT port icechest on the bottom
which ends up
dripping
down on the port berth down by the engine? I have
seen some folks
remove the dry storage cabinet and icebox all
together to make more
room in cabin, but has anyone come up with an
insulation method or
drip tray to funnel this moisture to a drain?
Re: Icebox condensation

 

Scott-Duplicate your box in glass.Rap with 2-4" rigid
close cell foam .Add 2 knee braces to bulkhead and to
stainless tabs to the edge where the cabin turns and
hang your new box.The ice box almost cools without
ice.
R.E.W
--- Bob <screeminbob@...> wrote:e

Hi Scott,
Most likely all your condensation is actually
collecting inside the
insulation making a nice mess of things, and leaking
out.
Unfortunately the way the icebox is mounted (glass
tabbed) makes it
very difficult to redo the insulation. You'll end up
cutting it out
any way. also the Stainless liner is very thin and
probably wouldn't
survive the redo. A drip tray would only be a
bandaid and not fix the
problem. I installed a 3 locker pantry (2 uppers and
a large lower)
with the upper left locker still being accessed
through the cockpit
hatch. I can fit a small cooler for drinks and such
in this locker.
You can make the locker larger to fit a larger
cooler.
Best of luck,
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

--- In T27Owners@..., "Scott Kendall"
<thephoenix215@...>
wrote:

Does anyone have a solution for the condensation
that forms on the
bottom of the AFT port icechest on the bottom
which ends up
dripping
down on the port berth down by the engine? I have
seen some folks
remove the dry storage cabinet and icebox all
together to make more
room in cabin, but has anyone come up with an
insulation method or
drip tray to funnel this moisture to a drain?
Re: Icebox condensation

Bob
 

Hi Scott,
Most likely all your condensation is actually collecting inside the
insulation making a nice mess of things, and leaking out.
Unfortunately the way the icebox is mounted (glass tabbed) makes it
very difficult to redo the insulation. You'll end up cutting it out
any way. also the Stainless liner is very thin and probably wouldn't
survive the redo. A drip tray would only be a bandaid and not fix the
problem. I installed a 3 locker pantry (2 uppers and a large lower)
with the upper left locker still being accessed through the cockpit
hatch. I can fit a small cooler for drinks and such in this locker.
You can make the locker larger to fit a larger cooler.
Best of luck,
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

--- In T27Owners@..., "Scott Kendall" <thephoenix215@...>
wrote:

Does anyone have a solution for the condensation that forms on the
bottom of the AFT port icechest on the bottom which ends up
dripping
down on the port berth down by the engine? I have seen some folks
remove the dry storage cabinet and icebox all together to make more
room in cabin, but has anyone come up with an insulation method or
drip tray to funnel this moisture to a drain?
Icebox condensation

Scott Kendall
 

Does anyone have a solution for the condensation that forms on the
bottom of the AFT port icechest on the bottom which ends up dripping
down on the port berth down by the engine? I have seen some folks
remove the dry storage cabinet and icebox all together to make more
room in cabin, but has anyone come up with an insulation method or
drip tray to funnel this moisture to a drain?
Re: Prop Shaft Length

Kyle Erlandsen
 

Been lurking for a while.

?

Watch out when you go from wire rope to hi-tech halyards on old boats.? The sheaves are usually beat up and worn, as well as the surrounding area, as a result of the cutting action of the steel.? The hi-tech stuff is awesome but needs to have smooth surfaces to ride on.

?

Kyle (looking for Hull #2) Erlandsen



----- Original Message ----
From: "brian@..."
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 9:14:03 AM
Subject: [T27Owners] Re: Prop Shaft Length

Speaking of sheaves, I found that I can use a hi-tech line that is the same size as cable for my main halyard.? I had to go up the mast to thread it through, but it works just fine.

?

Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand
Re: Prop Shaft Length

[email protected]
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Speaking of sheaves, I found that I can use a hi-tech line that is the same size as cable for my main halyard.? I had to go up the mast to thread it through, but it works just fine.

?

Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand
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