Hi Bill,
I would say NO!
what kind of material would you use to afix mechanicaly, the pipe
nipples and caps back on to the ctrboard trunk, that you can apply
while water, with force is shooting through the holes and would then
cure in water !

my nipples and caps are glassed in !

steve

okay, who laughed at my nipples ?

Hey bob,
got pics ?
steve

For any one interested:
I started recoring the decks today. Cut out the cockpit floor. I
wanted to cut all of the section to be done at one time (the less
days covered in fiberglass the better), but decided to at least start
in sections. I used a circular saw set at 3/8" and then a cut off
wheel in a grinder to finish the corners. Top skin popped off fairly
easily. Most of the balsa core was mush though some was still like
new. A putty knife and a wooden mallet cleaned up the blasa core
nicely, and I used a fat screw driver to clean out the edges. Then a
fat grinding wheel over entire inside and underside of top skin.
Other than all the fun fiberglass dust, went pretty quickly and
easily. Interestingly the square of plywood around the gas fill (She
now has a yanmar diesel with a separate fill but the old gas fill
fitting is still in the cockpit floor) was wet but solid. Says alot
for the quality of plywood back in the 60's. Tomrrow I plan to cut
Marine ply pieces to fit in place of the balsa core. If weather
holds, on Monday I'll epoxy in two layers of glass mat then marine
ply and two more layers of mat and then the top skin. Then it's off
on vacation for a week (what!?! I thought boat work was vacation!!).
I know some folks say to use foam core and some say marine ply. I'm a
wood man, and foam core while it doesn't rot still turns to mush when
water gets in. I've seen plenty of rotton foam core decks and hulls
to have the opinion that good marine ply will last longer if water
does get in. Foam or ply, the key is to encapsulate it in epoxy and
don't let the water in.
I'll keep you all updated as project moves along.
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

I am going to second Bob and Mathias that this is not a job you want to do with the boat in the water.
Inspect the lowered board, yes. Disconnecting it, no.
I'm not even sure if a marine engineer would attempt this with a diver.
How many boat related tasks have you embarked upon that you thought would be easy only to find out that with our old boats there are complications.
I would not want to be switching to a plan B or C with someone under the boat or the center board lying in mud.
As Mathias said, this job was hard enough to do while on the hard.
That said, I have not attempted this in either medium (air or water).
My $.02
Caleb
T27 #328 Odalisque

What keeps the boat from sinking? With all that water running in it is
possible that the boat will lower itself onto your center board or
somebodies limbs, no? This just seams like a bad idea all around to me.
For the hassle and trouble it might be worth just having the boat
hauled and do it in the sling. Plus boat projects never go as easily or
quickly as planned. Just my 2 cents.
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

Question-1 yes. 2 thin strip of closed cell foam.
R.E.W.
--- ksmith4312 <ksmith4312@...> wrote:

The way my box is configured, it looks like the ice is loaded from
topside and there is a seperation between the ice and the food storage.

Someone put a drain in the food storage area that ties into the port
side scupper which of course is leaking.

Seems to me that the area between the ice and food storage should be
sealed to the point of no water in the food storage area. Yes/No?

Also has anyone found a way, short of sealing the outside hatch, to
make it more water tight.

开云体育

1. Move the boat if you can to a place where you can stand on the bottom while working on the centerboard inspection. Note that I have only said inspection. The reason is that I think one can drop the board, see what it looks like and put it back in without too much trouble and without loosing the board. I would approach this process with all the stops pulled out that you can muster in terms of safety and common sense. In other words, with the pin in, drop the board down say half way with the two separate line to catch it under the keel where the board comes out, see that you have about 2 feet of the bottom of the board out of the boat and tie some lines around the bottom of the board and around the sides. Think of a net holding the bottom of the board as a base line for this part. Oh yes, you will need extra people to do this. Another thing to think about is that you might need the net of lines on the bottom to assist you in lifting the board up into the trunk to get to the pin. Buy the way, I would take some lip stick and make some marks on the bottom and the board for ref. to assist you in putting the board back in for pin alignment. I would put some with the board up in the truck as and some with the board at an angle and with the board straight down. The reason is that to get the pin aligned is a many feat out of the water and in the water.
2. ?People should note reading this, many of the same concepts expressed here are for removal and insertion out of the water.
3. I would see how the board feels for buoyancy and handling at this time with the pin in. If for any reason, one feels that the concept of handling the heavy board is too much for them, this is the time to opt out. The only reasons to drop the board is to see the area around the pin and remove the board from the boat to repair it in any fashion. When doing so, I would install a new pennant. Make is longer than the old one. The reason is that you can cut is down in length, but one cannot make it longer.
4. If you have decided to go the full trip, you will have the board out or under the boat. I would use the centerboard winch to assist my placing the boat into the trunk, post inspection. I would use any of the line support system to get the board back up to a level and attitude within the trunk per your reference markings in lipstick. With the board in place, I would put the drift in and use it to be the temp board pin. Then I would move the board and drive in the new pin, driving out the drive. Lub is good in all cases here. Anything like water pump lub.
5. With the pin in to the correct depth meaning that the pin is in equally from both sides, put the caps on and use the correct pipe sealing material here as one does not want to have these leak.
6. If the cable has be replaced, attach it to the winch in such a manner that when the winch is in the up position, the board is up tight.
7. Take a shower and have a drink. You have done something that might not have been done prior, but can be done with planning and as my Spanish teacher?said 50 years ago, usa la cabazza or something like that which means using one's head.
8. Please do not plan to paint that board or the trunk with the board out while the boat is in the water. It will not work. JOKE

I have a mast with the external track.I am thinking of
selling sections from it. Bob-
--- glidden_34 <glidden_34@...> wrote:

Hi Steve,

You have quite a list there, best I can tell the
chainplates are good.
The aft has already been done ;) I will confirm the
main plates
tomorrow, but I know they have been done before.

I have most of the hardware off the deck and will
finish prep and
paint this weekend ;) port lights are removed, I am
pulling the
dorade boxes, and winches and will be ready for
sanding / paint.

The A4 and wiring are a winter project becasue they
can be done in
the cold.. snows here in NE on occassion.If I pull
it all the way out
it will get a complete rebuild. I am debating
trading the ignition
system for electronic, but I sort of like the idea,
of having a spare
ignition setup on board.

I understand the bow and arrow effect, and I am not
considering
splicing the mast, unless I get some sort of lining
that takes it all
the way through the deck from the base. I read and
like the idea of
the carbon fiber wrap. I don't think it flooded, it
sat under trees,
and it got water inside and the line is like a
bathtub ring. There is
already a manual / electric bildge pump plumbed
through, my bildge is
presently dry. Cable to swing keel is supple, not
brittle, but I am
going after the pennant, (have to dig a hole first).
In order to be
able to drop the board.
The cabin is almost ready for paint, I haven't
decided to replace the
drains in the cockpit yet. We got about 10 inches of
rain in two days
here, and they drains kept up. I have already had
all the drain /
scupper hoses off, pain to get to, but not
impossible.
Above the waterline, hull paint is good, it is
getting a new boot
stripe, and I am replacing all the through hulls
before I put new
barrier coat below the waterline. The good thing so
far, the boat is
only a couple miles from my home, and I am averaging
12 hours per
week working on it, and with three days off and no
rain to speak of
in the forcast, this weekend is going to be huge...

I am only aware of one soft spot on the deck, and I
am going after it
from below.

I am leaving the through hull for the head discharge
overboard, but I
am trying to find a better place for the holding
tank. There is a new
(er) stainless 25 gallon water tank built in under
the V-berth which
I am not presently interested in removing, it is
pressurized to the
sink. Suppose a macerator might be in my future, but
that will likely
be after next season.

I am going to be looking for a new(er) 155% genoa, I
understand she
will like a larger head sail. I do have a spinnaker
pole I think I
will be parting company with.

Well I should be in bed... tomorrow is the beggining
of a weekend of
work. My Nephew is making me all new grab rails, to
go over my new
paint ;) and I have someone who did autobody
professionally is going
to buff and rewax when the paint is done and the new
name is in place.

I am wondering whether I should take the coaming
boards off, but that
will be an on-site, it seems like a good idea
decision

Mark
Higher Powered ll
'65 Tartan 27 #109


--- In T27Owners@..., "Steve"
<skolar@...> wrote:

Hi Mark
I somehow lost the last letter that I tried to

post so here

goes..again...
The garboard drain plug, that i mentioned is at

the aft end of the

ctrboard trunk, the pivot for the ctrboard is at

the fwd end of the

ctrboard trunk.

here is a list of things i will be doing when i

rebuild my boat
that

has been on the hard 10 yrs.it will serve as a

guide of things you

should look at on your boat for structural and

water integrity.

some things you should replace....
1)chainplates, port,starboard,aft and rebed the

stem plate.

here is where the fein multimaster will come in

handy.

what i have learned is do not cover the chainplate

tang or the

mounting
bolts in glass. leave them exposed so they do not

become oxygen

starved.
this oxygen starvation leeds to corrosion even

with stainless.

2)thru hulls with backing plates, all hoses.
spartan seacocks and trident hose. the spartan

seacocks properly

maintained will last a long time.
i will be eliminating the head discharge thru hull

and the cockpit

scupper thru hull. the head goes to the holding

tank, y-valve for

pump-
out or over board discharge. i will be adding two

more scuppers aft

in
the cockpit and route them out the transom. better

drainage in and

out
of the water.

3)i'm pulling my a4 out for light service, replace

all

gaskets,painting
and so forth. while it's out of the way pull the

prop shaft,
replace

cutless bearing, stern tube and the stuffing box

hose. keep it
simple

keep the stuffing box. my wife works for an

insurance co. and i
have

a
few stories of boats sinking because of dripless

seal systems. keep

it
simple. also going to pull the "monel" gas tank

for a good cleaning

add
a fuel gauge replace all hose, electric fuel pump

and filter
system.

if
your boat has the original "monel"fuel tank keep

it, it's the best

material for the job.

4)replace the pennant (cable) that runs down to

the ctrboard and

reinforce the attachment point on the ctrboard.

replace the hose
that

keeps water out of the boat that the pennant runs

through. i had
read

somewhere about chafe protection so the cable

doesn't cut the hose

using wood or brass or something sacraficial. take

the pivot
bearing

apart (pipe niple and cap each side) clean or

replace and glass in.

5)fix that mast. the splice sounds like a good

idea. just keep in

mind

=== message truncated ===

Hi Mark,

Steves list sounds pretty good, and so does yours.

Do the Comings. I just pulled mine and it was pretty easy. Just a
bunch of long screws from under the deck and the bunch inside the
cabin next to the window. entire coming and corner piece can come off
in one piece. On my boat these were backed with washers not much
bigger than the screw head and were pulling up into the fiberglass.
All should come out pretty easy. I had one screw on each coming that
was glassed in to the bulkhead tabbing. I was able to approximate its
location (Inline with the other screws) and use a chisle to break
away just enough glass to get at the screw head. The winch stands
were the only pain in the butt. I had to drill out the two winch
stand coming bolts. Stainless steel in aluminum makes for self
welding corrosion. the Stands left a dimple in the deck from over
tightening of the bolts. Will put a teak pad between deck and stands
plus inside backing block. I scored a nice set of murray self tailing
winches for $65. I also plan to add a backing strip under the deck
for the coming screws.
Best of luck,
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

If you don't mind getting a lot of water into your boat I guess you could pull the pin. I really wouldn't recommend it. It took me almost 1 hour to get it back in even being out of the water and I had help too.

Matthias
Carpe Diem
1970 T27 #484
Green Cove Springs FL
(Tropical Storm"Fay" Survivor)

Hi Steve,

You have quite a list there, best I can tell the chainplates are good.
The aft has already been done ;) I will confirm the main plates
tomorrow, but I know they have been done before.

I have most of the hardware off the deck and will finish prep and
paint this weekend ;) port lights are removed, I am pulling the
dorade boxes, and winches and will be ready for sanding / paint.

The A4 and wiring are a winter project becasue they can be done in
the cold.. snows here in NE on occassion.If I pull it all the way out
it will get a complete rebuild. I am debating trading the ignition
system for electronic, but I sort of like the idea, of having a spare
ignition setup on board.

I understand the bow and arrow effect, and I am not considering
splicing the mast, unless I get some sort of lining that takes it all
the way through the deck from the base. I read and like the idea of
the carbon fiber wrap. I don't think it flooded, it sat under trees,
and it got water inside and the line is like a bathtub ring. There is
already a manual / electric bildge pump plumbed through, my bildge is
presently dry. Cable to swing keel is supple, not brittle, but I am
going after the pennant, (have to dig a hole first). In order to be
able to drop the board.
The cabin is almost ready for paint, I haven't decided to replace the
drains in the cockpit yet. We got about 10 inches of rain in two days
here, and they drains kept up. I have already had all the drain /
scupper hoses off, pain to get to, but not impossible.
Above the waterline, hull paint is good, it is getting a new boot
stripe, and I am replacing all the through hulls before I put new
barrier coat below the waterline. The good thing so far, the boat is
only a couple miles from my home, and I am averaging 12 hours per
week working on it, and with three days off and no rain to speak of
in the forcast, this weekend is going to be huge...

I am only aware of one soft spot on the deck, and I am going after it
from below.

I am leaving the through hull for the head discharge overboard, but I
am trying to find a better place for the holding tank. There is a new
(er) stainless 25 gallon water tank built in under the V-berth which
I am not presently interested in removing, it is pressurized to the
sink. Suppose a macerator might be in my future, but that will likely
be after next season.

I am going to be looking for a new(er) 155% genoa, I understand she
will like a larger head sail. I do have a spinnaker pole I think I
will be parting company with.

Well I should be in bed... tomorrow is the beggining of a weekend of
work. My Nephew is making me all new grab rails, to go over my new
paint ;) and I have someone who did autobody professionally is going
to buff and rewax when the paint is done and the new name is in place.

I am wondering whether I should take the coaming boards off, but that
will be an on-site, it seems like a good idea decision

Mark
Higher Powered ll
'65 Tartan 27 #109


--- In T27Owners@..., "Steve" <skolar@...> wrote:

Hi Mark
I somehow lost the last letter that I tried to post so here
goes..again...
The garboard drain plug, that i mentioned is at the aft end of the
ctrboard trunk, the pivot for the ctrboard is at the fwd end of the
ctrboard trunk.

here is a list of things i will be doing when i rebuild my boat

that

has been on the hard 10 yrs.it will serve as a guide of things you
should look at on your boat for structural and water integrity.

some things you should replace....
1)chainplates, port,starboard,aft and rebed the stem plate.
here is where the fein multimaster will come in handy.
what i have learned is do not cover the chainplate tang or the
mounting
bolts in glass. leave them exposed so they do not become oxygen
starved.
this oxygen starvation leeds to corrosion even with stainless.

2)thru hulls with backing plates, all hoses.
spartan seacocks and trident hose. the spartan seacocks properly
maintained will last a long time.
i will be eliminating the head discharge thru hull and the cockpit
scupper thru hull. the head goes to the holding tank, y-valve for
pump-
out or over board discharge. i will be adding two more scuppers aft
in
the cockpit and route them out the transom. better drainage in and
out
of the water.

3)i'm pulling my a4 out for light service, replace all
gaskets,painting
and so forth. while it's out of the way pull the prop shaft,

replace

cutless bearing, stern tube and the stuffing box hose. keep it

simple

keep the stuffing box. my wife works for an insurance co. and i

have

a
few stories of boats sinking because of dripless seal systems. keep
it
simple. also going to pull the "monel" gas tank for a good cleaning
add
a fuel gauge replace all hose, electric fuel pump and filter

system.

if
your boat has the original "monel"fuel tank keep it, it's the best
material for the job.

4)replace the pennant (cable) that runs down to the ctrboard and
reinforce the attachment point on the ctrboard. replace the hose

that

keeps water out of the boat that the pennant runs through. i had

read

somewhere about chafe protection so the cable doesn't cut the hose
using wood or brass or something sacraficial. take the pivot

bearing

apart (pipe niple and cap each side) clean or replace and glass in.

5)fix that mast. the splice sounds like a good idea. just keep in
mind
the pressure that you put on a bow and arrow when you draw back,
simalar physics with the bottom of the mast taking all the pressure
and
check that mast step for corrosion and the wooden support structure
for
rot.

6)soft spots on the deck ? hardware backing plates ? brown stains

on

the inside where hardware is or isn't ?
rebed all hardware properly, over drilling holes and filling with
epoxy
and redrilling. good bedding compound not 3m 5200.
stantions. i will be using a hole saw just in side of the mounting
bolts to remove the deck skin and digging out the core past the
mounting holes all around refilling with thickened epoxy and
redrilling
and rebeding. i have some soft spots on the deck and will be
attacking
from the top. cut the skin, dig out the core, clean the bottom

skin,

recore, replace skin and vacum bag for clamping pressure and to
remove
excess epoxy.

7)tired yet ?

8)i will be removing the icebox to get at the port deck scupper and
it's hose and the bolts for the port coaming and glassing in the
hatch,
big hole to let water in must be sealed. not sure what i'll do

about

keeping beverages cold, cooler? build a box ? i have a adler-

barbour

installed in it which is very nice.

9)electrical. ancor wire and waterproof connectors, ratchet

crimper,

heat shrink. remove anything from the engine compartment that is

not

ignition proof ( non sparking device ) switches, panels, buss bars,
battery charger, etc.....
i always had my blower running when the engine was on.
i will be rewring the boat compleatly

Marvel Mystery oil is the a4's best friend, go to the don moyer

site

for more info, mine ran so smooth that at idle you didn't know it

was

running. also a tip, there is a rubber donut insulator where the
points
and the coil wire enters the distributor, if that voltage is ran to
ground without that insulator it won't run, don't ask how i know.

okay i'm tired of typing this a second time, if you have questions

or

thoughts just post them.


so, a small list to start with.
put in the time, buy the best parts you can afford, make sure it's
for
marine use.
once you sail her and get caught in some weather and see how secure
you
feel in her you will understand the passion that we all have for

our

T27's

steve
"Bella Domenica"
T27 #196
Lake Erie

Does anyone know if centerboard can be dropped for inspection with boat
in water? I can see the cable from below using mask/snorkel and it's
OK, but how can pivot point be checked?

Thanks.

Bill
#327

Hi Mark
I somehow lost the last letter that I tried to post so here
goes..again...
The garboard drain plug, that i mentioned is at the aft end of the
ctrboard trunk, the pivot for the ctrboard is at the fwd end of the
ctrboard trunk.

here is a list of things i will be doing when i rebuild my boat that
has been on the hard 10 yrs.it will serve as a guide of things you
should look at on your boat for structural and water integrity.

some things you should replace....
1)chainplates, port,starboard,aft and rebed the stem plate.
here is where the fein multimaster will come in handy.
what i have learned is do not cover the chainplate tang or the
mounting
bolts in glass. leave them exposed so they do not become oxygen
starved.
this oxygen starvation leeds to corrosion even with stainless.

2)thru hulls with backing plates, all hoses.
spartan seacocks and trident hose. the spartan seacocks properly
maintained will last a long time.
i will be eliminating the head discharge thru hull and the cockpit
scupper thru hull. the head goes to the holding tank, y-valve for
pump-
out or over board discharge. i will be adding two more scuppers aft
in
the cockpit and route them out the transom. better drainage in and
out
of the water.

3)i'm pulling my a4 out for light service, replace all
gaskets,painting
and so forth. while it's out of the way pull the prop shaft, replace
cutless bearing, stern tube and the stuffing box hose. keep it simple
keep the stuffing box. my wife works for an insurance co. and i have
a
few stories of boats sinking because of dripless seal systems. keep
it
simple. also going to pull the "monel" gas tank for a good cleaning
add
a fuel gauge replace all hose, electric fuel pump and filter system.
if
your boat has the original "monel"fuel tank keep it, it's the best
material for the job.

4)replace the pennant (cable) that runs down to the ctrboard and
reinforce the attachment point on the ctrboard. replace the hose that
keeps water out of the boat that the pennant runs through. i had read
somewhere about chafe protection so the cable doesn't cut the hose
using wood or brass or something sacraficial. take the pivot bearing
apart (pipe niple and cap each side) clean or replace and glass in.

5)fix that mast. the splice sounds like a good idea. just keep in
mind
the pressure that you put on a bow and arrow when you draw back,
simalar physics with the bottom of the mast taking all the pressure
and
check that mast step for corrosion and the wooden support structure
for
rot.

6)soft spots on the deck ? hardware backing plates ? brown stains on
the inside where hardware is or isn't ?
rebed all hardware properly, over drilling holes and filling with
epoxy
and redrilling. good bedding compound not 3m 5200.
stantions. i will be using a hole saw just in side of the mounting
bolts to remove the deck skin and digging out the core past the
mounting holes all around refilling with thickened epoxy and
redrilling
and rebeding. i have some soft spots on the deck and will be
attacking
from the top. cut the skin, dig out the core, clean the bottom skin,
recore, replace skin and vacum bag for clamping pressure and to
remove
excess epoxy.

7)tired yet ?

8)i will be removing the icebox to get at the port deck scupper and
it's hose and the bolts for the port coaming and glassing in the
hatch,
big hole to let water in must be sealed. not sure what i'll do about
keeping beverages cold, cooler? build a box ? i have a adler-barbour
installed in it which is very nice.

9)electrical. ancor wire and waterproof connectors, ratchet crimper,
heat shrink. remove anything from the engine compartment that is not
ignition proof ( non sparking device ) switches, panels, buss bars,
battery charger, etc.....
i always had my blower running when the engine was on.
i will be rewring the boat compleatly

Marvel Mystery oil is the a4's best friend, go to the don moyer site
for more info, mine ran so smooth that at idle you didn't know it was
running. also a tip, there is a rubber donut insulator where the
points
and the coil wire enters the distributor, if that voltage is ran to
ground without that insulator it won't run, don't ask how i know.

okay i'm tired of typing this a second time, if you have questions or
thoughts just post them.


so, a small list to start with.
put in the time, buy the best parts you can afford, make sure it's
for
marine use.
once you sail her and get caught in some weather and see how secure
you
feel in her you will understand the passion that we all have for our
T27's

steve
"Bella Domenica"
T27 #196
Lake Erie

Hi Mark
Was your boat flooded while sitting on the hard ?
If it was, something one of the PO did, I'm the fifth owner, was to
install a "garboard" plug on the port side.
It's located at the bottom of the bilge just behind the centerboard
pivot in that deep well thats located in that area.
My baby has been on the hard about ten years and has never filled with
water but that hole has let a few mice in, but she is looking at a
serious refurbishment, about all the mice did was to leave a lot of
droppings and pull the stuffing out of the heat shield around the
exhaust.
you have a lot of work ahead of you, but it will be worth it.
If you haven't done so yet buy a Fein multimaster, it will save you
hours of work and ask any questions you have you will get plenty of
advice.

Steve
Bella Domenica
1966 T27 #196
Lake Erie

Is boat still available? Is it possible to see and conduct a self-survey?

Thanks

Lou

It appears I have an oil leak on my engine as the bilge is filled with
oil and the engine has no oil in it. It does not appear to be burning
too much as there is no blue smoke coming out of exhaust. Does anyone
have any experience with oil leaking out of A4 or a good method to
find the source and/or fix the problem?

Sorry People,
I meant "NOT squared" instead of "NUT Squared" as in hole needs to be
drilled perpendicular to the hull arc. Like a T.
Thanks for the Heads Up Chris.
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

Hi Billy,
I just did all my through hulls a month or so ago. easy fix for your
problem is to go the next size up. Those through hull nipples are
mostly all undersized to begin with. Most likely your 1 1/4 inch is
your toilet out and should be 1 1/2" any way. make the 3/4" to 1" and
fit with apropriate sized thru hulls. A couple of hole saws are cheap
compared to all the epoxy, and such. if you need the 3/4 to be 3/4
then put a 1" to 3/4" reducer on the thru hull. My sink drain is 5/8
so I have a 3/4 thu hull with a 5/8 reducer. best of luck. some of
your origional thru hulls are nut squared to the hull and will
present a problem anyhow. If you redrill them larger than you can
square them and take care of that problem as well. My philosophy is
do your thru hulls correctly and solid. If all else fails at least
you know your boat will still float. best of luck.

Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90







--- In T27Owners@..., Bill Davis <backstay13@...> wrote:

Guys,
?
I am still in the middle of replacing all 7 original?thru hulls.

Two of the original openings (one 3/4 and one 1 1/4) are so?wallowed
out?that I will have to use a boat load of 5200 sealer to assure they
will stay in place. I am considering using some of the West System
epoxy and fairing compound to line the holes and there by assure a
better, firmer seal with the 5200. I'm sure someone has dealt with a
similar issue? Your opinions would be welcome. I have some thin glass
mat that I?may be able to?line the holes with. Would that make more
sense?

?
Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79