Hi Mark
I somehow lost the last letter that I tried to post so here
goes..again...
The garboard drain plug, that i mentioned is at the aft end of the
ctrboard trunk, the pivot for the ctrboard is at the fwd end of the
ctrboard trunk.
here is a list of things i will be doing when i rebuild my boat that
has been on the hard 10 yrs.it will serve as a guide of things you
should look at on your boat for structural and water integrity.
some things you should replace....
1)chainplates, port,starboard,aft and rebed the stem plate.
here is where the fein multimaster will come in handy.
what i have learned is do not cover the chainplate tang or the
mounting
bolts in glass. leave them exposed so they do not become oxygen
starved.
this oxygen starvation leeds to corrosion even with stainless.
2)thru hulls with backing plates, all hoses.
spartan seacocks and trident hose. the spartan seacocks properly
maintained will last a long time.
i will be eliminating the head discharge thru hull and the cockpit
scupper thru hull. the head goes to the holding tank, y-valve for
pump-
out or over board discharge. i will be adding two more scuppers aft
in
the cockpit and route them out the transom. better drainage in and
out
of the water.
3)i'm pulling my a4 out for light service, replace all
gaskets,painting
and so forth. while it's out of the way pull the prop shaft, replace
cutless bearing, stern tube and the stuffing box hose. keep it simple
keep the stuffing box. my wife works for an insurance co. and i have
a
few stories of boats sinking because of dripless seal systems. keep
it
simple. also going to pull the "monel" gas tank for a good cleaning
add
a fuel gauge replace all hose, electric fuel pump and filter system.
if
your boat has the original "monel"fuel tank keep it, it's the best
material for the job.
4)replace the pennant (cable) that runs down to the ctrboard and
reinforce the attachment point on the ctrboard. replace the hose that
keeps water out of the boat that the pennant runs through. i had read
somewhere about chafe protection so the cable doesn't cut the hose
using wood or brass or something sacraficial. take the pivot bearing
apart (pipe niple and cap each side) clean or replace and glass in.
5)fix that mast. the splice sounds like a good idea. just keep in
mind
the pressure that you put on a bow and arrow when you draw back,
simalar physics with the bottom of the mast taking all the pressure
and
check that mast step for corrosion and the wooden support structure
for
rot.
6)soft spots on the deck ? hardware backing plates ? brown stains on
the inside where hardware is or isn't ?
rebed all hardware properly, over drilling holes and filling with
epoxy
and redrilling. good bedding compound not 3m 5200.
stantions. i will be using a hole saw just in side of the mounting
bolts to remove the deck skin and digging out the core past the
mounting holes all around refilling with thickened epoxy and
redrilling
and rebeding. i have some soft spots on the deck and will be
attacking
from the top. cut the skin, dig out the core, clean the bottom skin,
recore, replace skin and vacum bag for clamping pressure and to
remove
excess epoxy.
7)tired yet ?
8)i will be removing the icebox to get at the port deck scupper and
it's hose and the bolts for the port coaming and glassing in the
hatch,
big hole to let water in must be sealed. not sure what i'll do about
keeping beverages cold, cooler? build a box ? i have a adler-barbour
installed in it which is very nice.
9)electrical. ancor wire and waterproof connectors, ratchet crimper,
heat shrink. remove anything from the engine compartment that is not
ignition proof ( non sparking device ) switches, panels, buss bars,
battery charger, etc.....
i always had my blower running when the engine was on.
i will be rewring the boat compleatly
Marvel Mystery oil is the a4's best friend, go to the don moyer site
for more info, mine ran so smooth that at idle you didn't know it was
running. also a tip, there is a rubber donut insulator where the
points
and the coil wire enters the distributor, if that voltage is ran to
ground without that insulator it won't run, don't ask how i know.
okay i'm tired of typing this a second time, if you have questions or
thoughts just post them.
so, a small list to start with.
put in the time, buy the best parts you can afford, make sure it's
for
marine use.
once you sail her and get caught in some weather and see how secure
you
feel in her you will understand the passion that we all have for our
T27's
steve
"Bella Domenica"
T27 #196
Lake Erie
