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Re: FOR SALE: 1970 Hull #471 "Chickadee"
A caution about FB Market Place, last time I sold something it was crazy. Too many people just click the buttons and you end up with hundreds of messages. It was in manageable. I have been told that you need to shout serious inquiries only at the beginning of the description. Also you I got offers that were jokes. Just a warning.
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John Kiltie #226 On Sep 11, 2022, at 10:05 AM, EeBe4 <ebreeden4@...> wrote: |
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FOR SALE: 1970 Hull #471 "Chickadee"
Great sailing boat. Quite a few improvements since I've owned her (2-3 yrs)
To list a few:
Videos here: Asking $4,500 Email if interested ebreeden4@.... Thanks |
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Re: Standing Rigging
Does anyone have a picture?or specs for the older style SS strap that goes on the masthead?? Unfortunately, I have not been able to find this pc and will need to make one. Thanks, On Thu, Jun 16, 2022 at 4:50 AM lm53187 <muellerl@...> wrote: If it hasn't been in the water since 82, your rigging might be fine depending on how it was stored. That's 40 less years of outside exposure, shock-loading, and other problems that age the rigging and eventually require replacement. It's worth the close look and inspection. That said, you've also got the mast down now... it's a good time to take care of all the preventative maintenance.? |
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Re: Atomic 4 issues
Thanks Scott-
Your ideas are really helpful, and I've spent the afternoon looking at the 2 websites you mentioned. Electric makes the most sense for my needs, and now I just need to explore the details, whether inboard or outboard. I'll post what I finally decide to do, but thanks for your suggestions. |
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Re: Atomic 4 issues
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýJeremy,I made a custom stainless offset and used a motor mount and can put on a nice Honda 9.9 extra long shaft that places the prop at the same depth as the inboard prop. ?Works well. ?Not particularly attractive but very functional? Steve Bufe
Wolfington body company
Cell 610.308.5657
On Jun 24, 2022, at 3:48 PM, jeremy@... wrote:
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Re: Atomic 4 issues
When my A4 reaches the point where it is not worth fixing, I will probably install an electric inboard. The big cost with electric propulsion is the battery system. But all I need is enough range to get in and out of the slip. It doesn't take much battery power to move a T27 in and out of the marina in a no wake zone. It takes a lot of power to get up to hull speed. It takes a lot less to go a knot or two. Using a diesel just to get in and out of the marina is a diesel engine's worst nightmare -- because it never gets up to operating temp. If there is no wind -- then I don't know why I'd leave the slip in the first place :p If the wind dies while I am out sailing about -- then I guess I'll just have to wait it out. I'd rather spend a night sleeping on the water now and then than spend a couple weeks and lots of $$ on engine repairs all the time. I've sailed a lot on Colgate 26s with outboard motors. They are flakey, tend to clunk around on the motor mount a lot, and look ugly. But it gets the job done. It does mean less drag -- plus you can glass over some holes in the boat and reduce your chances of sinking due to a failed seacock. If I definitely wanted to be able to motor a significant distance -- then I would install a diesel. But.. I really don't want to install a diesel. On Fri, Jun 24, 2022 at 12:27 PM Ned Wood <nwood@...> wrote: This is my 2nd summer with Rocinante #760. Sadly, I've spent many weeks unable to sail because of issues with my Atomic 4. When this engine runs, it purrs and provides excellent power. But too often it refuses to behave as it should. My latest predicament is that it is stuck in forward gear- no neutral, no reverse. My mechanic, who is very knowledgeable of Atomic 4's (especially mine) is puzzled, and we have been speaking with Moyer Marine to try to understand the issue. |
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Re: Atomic 4 issues
Hi Ned,
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There was just some discussion on the Cal Sailing list of electric outboards. That might be a thought. Main downside seems to be range, which is not an issue if you're just pushing into and out of the slip. My Kubota diesel, with a fair amount of maintenance, has been reliable so far, but I try to have backups for things so there's a long shaft 55 thrust-pound Minn Kota stuffed in the starboard cockpit locker. That does move the boat, and being able to swivel it to steer is handy. This is more in the $200 range than the $2000 range. It has its own single 12 volt battery that also runs a backup bilge pump. I'd love to be able to pop it on to get in and out of the slip and keep it stowed otherwise, and not have any other motor but I'm not that confident right now. An outboard isn't a great fashion statement but my two cents is if you aren't going to do whatever is needed to make the inboard happy, go for the outboard and save grief and money. Or if you want to keep an inboard that's not completely reliable and just have a backup to possibly have to limp in when its calm, a simple, cheap trolling motor can work. Higher end, people here are having good luck with Torqeedo outboards. That and start at about $3,000. The club has a bunch of gas powered outboards and they're unreliable at best and only as reliable as they are because they constantly get run and get fresh gas, and people get trained on dealing with them. It seems like around 9.9HP or so, companies try to make them at least a bit reliable, but below that, it's like a lawnmower with a propeller. I'm not sure I'd trade the diesel inboard for a gas outboard because that seems like trading one set of maintenance problems for another. One other person who has posted on here has gone electric inboard, had good thing sto say about it, and I'm thinking about that too. Last time I was hauled out in a DIY yard, someone there had a Westsail they were refitting including installing a electric, and it sounds like it's served them well. It's a lot fewer potential points of a failure and a lot less expensive than a new diesel, but then HP and range each come at a premium, which could be a good trade off if you're just pushing in and out. I can definitely relate to wanting to do less work on things and more sailing. Good luck! -scott On 6/24/22, Ned Wood <nwood@...> wrote:
This is my 2nd summer with Rocinante #760. Sadly, I've spent many weeks |
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Re: Mast wiring
I rewired my mast two years ago. ?Similar problem. ?My main blockage appeared near the spreaders. ?Some of the original wiring was a tangled mess and there was styrofoam in the mast. ?I used a long hardwood stick about 3/4¡± square and 25 ft. long. ?I inserted a screw cross wise at one end of the stick to use as a hook. ?With much probing and turning of the stick, I was able to snag old wiring and foam and pull it out. ?I started out using some old wiring to pull cord the full length of mast. ?I was then able to pull some new wiring, but eventually could pull now more until I removed the old wiring and foam with my long stick and makeshift hook. ?It took a couple of days overall with much probing with snakes and snagging old wiring. ?Once old junk was removed, pulling the rest of the new cabling was simple. ?I have masthead tricolor (with anchor light), VHF antenna ?and wind sensor at masthead and steaming / foredeck light and spreader lights installed at the spreaders. ?All lights are LED. ?I get some slapping with new wiring. ?I used 16-2 or 16-3 wire as required for each lighting fixture. ?I was able to drill and tap for new stainless fasteners. ?Use blue Locktite to insulate the stainless screws from the aluminum. ?It prevents the dissimilar metal corrosion as well as keeping the machine screws from backing out.?
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Re: Mast wiring
Steel rod of that length would probably be expensive. ?But iron pipe from your big-box store might not be too bad. ?You can get it in 20¡¯ lengths; or if that¡¯s a problem to transport, you could use shorter lengths and couplings. ? You could beat the snoodle out of one end of it with a hammer. ?Maybe even put an end cap to hammer on. ?And/or cut some teeth on the business end of the pipe. ?And/or heat the business end with a torch. ? ?Just don¡¯t light the foam on fire, because if it catches fire and burns, you might have a LOT of very localized heat which could damage the mast. ?Have a hose handy.? -----Original Message-----
From: Scott Walters <scrottie@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Fri, Jun 17, 2022 7:52 am Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Mast wiring Steel rod would be the logical thing.? Google turns up
which says acetone for dissolving styrofoam.? I've accidentally dissolved styrofoam so it's definitely possible, but didn't make a note of exactly what did it.? Trying to spray paint styrofoam usually does not go well.? I'd avoid strong acids for the sake of the aluminium but goog is saying acetone is fine. It seems more likely that foam would be polyurethane foam (like the popular Great Stuff expandable canned foam from the hardware store) though, and and says "time to get out the tools".? If you get a chunk out and its kind of rubbery and yellow, it's polyurethane. Cheers, -scott On 6/17/22, acc_t@... <acc_t@...> wrote: > Great story Scott - but I doubt that water pressure will work in this case. > There are at least two blockages. One about ten feet down from the top, > another about six feet up from the base and who knows what in between. > And they occupy the entire cross section of the mast. > They do seem to be styrofoam-like. I'll try poking at them with a long steel > rod that I happen to have, and report back. > > Hmmm - is there anything that will dissolve styrofoam and not attack > aluminum? > |
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Re: Mast wiring
Or for a really crazy idea, how about treating the mast like a potato cannon? ? Cheap hairspray for fuel, a solid plug for one end of the mast, with an ignition source in it? ? The foam¡¯s got to be weaker than the aluminum, and maybe the solid plug isn¡¯t TOO well secured, so if it turns out that there¡¯s 3¡¯ of solid foam, the plug dislodges instead of blowing up the mast? ?I did say it¡¯s a crazy idea¡ -----Original Message-----
From: Scott Walters <scrottie@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Fri, Jun 17, 2022 7:52 am Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Mast wiring Steel rod would be the logical thing.? Google turns up
which says acetone for dissolving styrofoam.? I've accidentally dissolved styrofoam so it's definitely possible, but didn't make a note of exactly what did it.? Trying to spray paint styrofoam usually does not go well.? I'd avoid strong acids for the sake of the aluminium but goog is saying acetone is fine. It seems more likely that foam would be polyurethane foam (like the popular Great Stuff expandable canned foam from the hardware store) though, and and says "time to get out the tools".? If you get a chunk out and its kind of rubbery and yellow, it's polyurethane. Cheers, -scott On 6/17/22, acc_t@... <acc_t@...> wrote: > Great story Scott - but I doubt that water pressure will work in this case. > There are at least two blockages. One about ten feet down from the top, > another about six feet up from the base and who knows what in between. > And they occupy the entire cross section of the mast. > They do seem to be styrofoam-like. I'll try poking at them with a long steel > rod that I happen to have, and report back. > > Hmmm - is there anything that will dissolve styrofoam and not attack > aluminum? > |
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Re: Mast wiring
Assuming that you are willing to risk damage to whatever wires, etc. may already be inside your mast, how about renting a powered rotary plumber¡¯s snake? ?Chew right thru that foam. ? ?? -----Original Message-----
From: Scott Walters <scrottie@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Thu, Jun 16, 2022 9:32 am Subject: Re: [T27Owners] Mast wiring This is probably goofy and unhelpful, but I'm reminded of the
frequently occuring problem of wetvac hose clogs, and the easiest way to clear them...? running water through.? If you run out of other ideas, hoist up one end and put the garden hose in it.? Water pressure per square inch is a function of the depth of the water and 40 feet, by , is about 17psi, if you stood it bolt upright and filled it with water. At a 45 degree angle, half that. This is probably another braindead thing, but I got tired of water running in to the bilge during heavy rains, so I put a bunch of polyurathane foam in the mast above the deck level and stuck a poker through an existing disused rivet/bolt hole also above deck level but a bit lower than the foam and and poked up through the polyurathane, effectively causing the same problem you are now dealing with.? Oops. Anyway, bats got in to the house last night, probably lured in by the fresh baked strawberry rhubarb pie.? Couldn't possibily be a coincidence.? So if water doesn't work, maybe try luring badgers in to the mast. Good luck.? Let us know how it goes.? Sadly, this might not be the bottom of the barrel. -scott (sending in duplicate but from the correct address hoping one copy, no more, no less, goes through) On 6/15/22, acc_t@... <acc_t@...> wrote: > We unstepped the mast last fall and just now are getting around to upgrading > the lights and wiring on the mast. > To my surprise it seems that a snake cannot be run down the inside of the > mast. > There are at least two blocks of an unknown material in the mast and there > seems to be no way to get new wires past them. > Or even pull an existing wire through. > > Has anyone encountered this? > And if so, how to remove then? Or get through them? > > Thanks > Barry > |
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Re: Mast wiring
Steel rod would be the logical thing. Google turns up
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which says acetone for dissolving styrofoam. I've accidentally dissolved styrofoam so it's definitely possible, but didn't make a note of exactly what did it. Trying to spray paint styrofoam usually does not go well. I'd avoid strong acids for the sake of the aluminium but goog is saying acetone is fine. It seems more likely that foam would be polyurethane foam (like the popular Great Stuff expandable canned foam from the hardware store) though, and and says "time to get out the tools". If you get a chunk out and its kind of rubbery and yellow, it's polyurethane. Cheers, -scott On 6/17/22, acc_t@... <acc_t@...> wrote:
Great story Scott - but I doubt that water pressure will work in this case. |
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