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Re: Russ Cobb
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On Sep 23, 2017, at 11:22 AM, RC sailor24u@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:
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Re: self furling system and main halyard pulleys
You will likely want to add a small self tailer for the halyards. Usually on the cabin top.
My only thoughts on the roller furler is CDI are very popular. I have one, But that said, CDI does not use a traditional halyard. And this is a small gripe, but I once broke a head stay fitting and it was only the Halyard and jib luff that held the rig while we scrambled to pull a spinaker halyard tight on a fore deck cleat. On a CDI the jib luff is tensioned directly on the foil with an internal halyard and down haul. It is simple and elegant. There is just no load sharing with a halyard and sail luf.? ? |
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Re: self furling system and main halyard pulleys
A good sail maker should be able to fit your Genny to roller furling. ?When I switched for much the same reasoning, I bought harken along with new 150 Genny totaled about 3k some 6-7 years ago. Made all the difference as I'm mid 70s On Sep 13, 2017 9:38 AM, "bscott@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:
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Re: self furling system and main halyard pulleys
Sheet tension while furling is a must on the dinghies in any wind but I
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haven't strictly needed to on the Tartan unless its blowing. It does help. -s On 0, "Marty Levenson martylev@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:
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Re: self furling system and main halyard pulleys
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýWe always keep tension on the jib sheet as we furl. No problem with jamming on any tack in the past twenty plus years. I imagine others do the same? Not sure if our system is large or small: no basis for comparison.? Marty Levenson? Poseidon? 1967 T 27 ? sent by carrier pigeon ? On Sep 13, 2017, at 7:33 AM, Scott Walters scott@... [T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote:
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Re: self furling system and main halyard pulleys
I inherited a cabin top winch for the main halyard. One simple block
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bolted to the mast at deck height routes it back to a clutch in front of the winch. Jib halyard winch is on the mast but I also inherited a Harken roller furler on the jib. Four reefing lines for two reefing points and the vang are also routed back to the cabintop and clutches. I'll take photos later. People ask about setting this up now and then. Local sailing club, Cal Sailing, mostly sails dinghies and the Harken roller furlers constantly get fouled. I don't know, but I suspect that size matters. Given a choice between a smaller unit and a larger one, go for the larger one. The dinghies often can only be furled on a run or else the furling line fouls itself inside the unit from the jerking and flogging and a larger drum gives more leverage. Cheers, -scott On 0, "bscott@... [T27Owners]" <T27Owners@...> wrote:
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Re: self furling system and main halyard pulleys
Hello Bob, Our boat came with a Hood 705 furler on it. It has worked great for the 6 years we have sailed Eagle. We have a 150% genoa on it now, but when we go for new sails we will do a 130 or 120, since for the area we sail the 150 is usually too much. Our sails are old so this may not apply to newer sails, but when we reef, the sail is even baggier so we need to reef further to depower. You will need to have the hanks removed on the headsail you have now and have a luff tape installed to accommodate whatever furler you find. Eagle also came with the main halyard and one reef line run back to the cockpit. I had to remove it all and put it back on the mast because of all the friction. It was miserable to use. It obviously was not run very fair. Having turned 60 myself, I know where you are coming from. So far I do not mind going to the mast, even single handing. But I did keep the parts for down the road. Be very careful how you route the system! Fred Liesegang Eagle #662 |
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self furling system and main halyard pulleys
I'd like to add a self furling jib system this winter. ?Are there any recommendations on which are best or how to find used ones? ?Can i use my large genoa on such a device or do i need to buy a sail for this? (Hope not). This is mostly about safety for me, ?climbing onto the deck to pull sails is getting trickier for me as I have passed the 60 yr old mark. I would also like to install deck pulleys to enable me to hoist the main from the cockpit as well. ?I only have the big jib winches to work with, ? should i add one or can i use the ones i have. ? Any advice welcome. I expect to pull the mast down this winter so that I can do this work, ?maybe upgrade the halyards while i'm at it.? thanks Bob |
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Re: Top side primer
Ive used lots of grit products, sand, walnut shells, salt (really, leaves grabby voids when disolved), assorted commercial products including soft sand....mixed in paint, shakered over it, even paint gun applied (blown into applied paint like an Awlgrip tech said) Some are more grippy than others, some look much better, some are a challenge to apply equally and looking good, but they all suffer from looking not so great after paint wears off the grit, and it will. Consider kiwi grip, I was expecting only so so results.... very pleased Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE Smartphone |
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Re: Top side primer
I am looking at soft sand , saw this on youtube Boatworks? Bill Talbot Scot Free #27 On Monday, September 11, 2017 9:31 PM, "mainesail113@... mainesail113@... [T27Owners]" wrote:
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I've gone over to kiwi grip, totally pleased. Takes a little while to figure timing for the texture you ver going back. I sand old grip almost flat, no need to go all the way, since this isn't paint...check it out...Will Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE Smartphone |
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Re: Top side primer
I would be very interested to hear how you prep non-skid. I am working on another boat ( a J24) that I need to prime and paint the inside of. It is very coarse, similar to non skid, and peeling, so someone before me did not do it right. I will follow this most closely! Sailing our T27 tonight! Fred Liesegang #662 Eagle |
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Re: Top side primer
I decided to use petit EZ Primer , 2 coats. It is a high build up which will fill crazing and any pin holes with easy sanding between coats. I re-used the orig. skins ?because they were in very good shape ?considering they are 55 years old. The old skins went down flush and I used 1708 fiberglass 2 layers to cover joints and it came out so smooth with minimum fairing. I used Silver Tip Quick Fair from Jamestown Dist. went on just like joint compound and feathered out wonderful. Thanks and I will post pictures of progress Bill Talbot Scot Free #27 On Sunday, September 10, 2017 7:27 PM, "scotthoehn@... [T27Owners]" wrote:
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I'm a few months ahead of you with the same projects, I sprayed my decks with a 2 part epoxy primer called Jotun jotamastic (or preferably jotun penguard hb) it is really good stuff and reasonably priced, but I'm not sure how widely available it is. I think 2 part is recommended since you are covering new glass. A trick I just learned was to prime it once then fair all the imperfections, they become really obvious after the first coat, another reason to use two part.
If you go for one part, I agree that the rustloleum topside paint is really good, mine still looked good after 5 years on the decks. Good luck. Scott |
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Re: Shift [1 Attachment]
I recently had to buy one and am in the middle of the nightmare of installing it. It was designed for thinner fiberglass, so I have to sand down the inside area where the mechanism, moves to allow it to move.
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Monica Malone PsyD
monicam@... -----Original Message----- From: Bill talbot talbot.bill@... [T27Owners] To: yahoogroups Sent: Sun, Sep 10, 2017 6:11 pm Subject: [T27Owners] Shift [1 Attachment]
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[Attachment(s) from Bill talbot included below]
Does any one have one of these ?
Sent from my iPhone |
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Re: Top side primer
I'm a few months ahead of you with the same projects, I sprayed my decks with a 2 part epoxy primer called Jotun jotamastic (or preferably jotun penguard hb) it is really good stuff and reasonably priced, but I'm not sure how widely available it is. I think 2 part is recommended since you are covering new glass. A trick I just learned was to prime it once then fair all the imperfections, they become really obvious after the first coat, another reason to use two part.
If you go for one part, I agree that the rustloleum topside paint is really good, mine still looked good after 5 years on the decks. Good luck. Scott |
Bob Riker