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Re: Welcome New Guy
Hi Caleb,
Thanks so much. I'm having her trucked ($$$). I would love to have sailed her down but my schedule doesn't allow it. I'll be sailing her on Old Hickory Lake which is a part of the intracoastal waterway. From the Great Lakes to the Gulf, we're in the middle. Someday very soon I'll make that trip. She has a Yanmar 2GM diesel, new rigging (standing and running), Hood R.F, and lots of little details. The previous owner was the second owner and he loved her very much. Family outgrew her. He ook very good care of her and is an awsome guy. I love the way she sails and for me as a single handed sailer who just wants a little more "heft" to my boat... she's perfect. Cheers |
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Welcome New Guy
Hello Chris,
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Congratulations on your T27 #466. They are really great old boats if you maintain them a bit. They are nice sailors too, and quite forgiving. How do you propose to get #466 back to Nashville, TN? Will you sail her down to the Chesapeake and then have her hauled? Will you be calling one of the lakes outside Nashville your home port? What engine does #466 have? Welcome! Caleb D. #328 Odalisque, 1967 -----Original Message-----
From: chrisd4700 <chrisd4700@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 2:38 pm Subject: [T27Owners] New guy Hi Everyone, I've been poking around here for a while now and have been a member but just pulled the trigger on my very own T-27 this weekend. I'm the proud owner of Hull # 466. She's in NJ right now but I'm trying to get her to Nashville. Yes, an unlikely destination but the web grows a bit bigger now. I'll be checking in I'm sure for all the particulars and all of your worldly advise. This is my first centerboard boat but it didin't seem to difficult to get a handle on. Boys these boats sail well. I fell in love and I can't wait to learn all the little tricks and details. I'll post some photos when I have them, I just wanted to introduce myself. Thanks. Chris DiCroce #466 Nashville Yahoo! Groups Links ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. |
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New guy
Hi Everyone,
I've been poking around here for a while now and have been a member but just pulled the trigger on my very own T-27 this weekend. I'm the proud owner of Hull # 466. She's in NJ right now but I'm trying to get her to Nashville. Yes, an unlikely destination but the web grows a bit bigger now. I'll be checking in I'm sure for all the particulars and all of your worldly advise. This is my first centerboard boat but it didin't seem to difficult to get a handle on. Boys these boats sail well. I fell in love and I can't wait to learn all the little tricks and details. I'll post some photos when I have them, I just wanted to introduce myself. Thanks. Chris DiCroce #466 Nashville |
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Re: teak maintenance
emma peal
An old-timer once told me to use spic& span - that was
when they had the old, strong, must-rinse formula. Now I am using Jabsco (?) with bleach: this is something that house painters use to remove mildew and dirt before painting trim. It works very much like the Wolman deck cleaner, which "lifts" the grey gunk off, and you just use a scrubbie (3M) on it after waiting a few minutes and rinse thoroughly. You can also use Oxy clean ( no kidding! and much cheaper) You may have to do it twice, but it is less wearing on the teak than acid. The pink of the teak comes up better when you don't use bleach, but I think the bleach is best on the first wash. Then I usually use a light coat of that Norweigan teak oil, the name escapes me. Have to do it every year, but it is less work than scraping, sanding & urethaning... Diane, T27 Triumph --- ackermwi <back22@...> wrote: Recent discussions have touched on teak maintenance. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool. |
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Re: Sheave Block Replaced???
? ? I also would appreciate some?feedback on that question as I will be dealing with the same issue in the next few months and I hate wire halyards! ? I have heard there are add-on mast caps that can be inserted at top of you mast but don't know where to find them or if that is even a reasonable solution. ? Billy Ray Davis -?Scarlet #79 tartan27plee wrote:
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Re: teak maintenance
ackermwi
Caleb,
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thanks for the response. The link is pretty thorough, although I think started feeling depressed towards then end when he mentioned six coats! Ah, well, at least working on the boat isn't actually at all like 'work':) I think I'll start by using Don Casey's suggestion of light cleaner first and see how it goes. --Bill --- In T27Owners@..., calebjess@... wrote:
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Re: teak maintenance
My plan for the teak has been to use a really thin 30% low v non blushing epoxy to 70% xylol. mix? to deeply penetrate the wood and create a base for the varnish.. then I just used my orbital sander with 220 grit to smooth things out and am researching varnishes for finish coat... I'll post the pics when I'm done.. I agree with you Caleb that actually leaving a a surface veneer of epoxy on? the wood will lead to problems in the future since the wood is going to expand and contract, I think the key is to modify the wood fibres to create a more stable base for a finish.. especially the toe rails if they are submerged once in a while.
I've used Cetol and have experimented with other finishes on the last couple of boats I owned and they do a good job but pale next to a nice varnish... weather here on Cape Cod great for sailing... too bad the O'day doesn't like anything over 10 knots... I've got a few people interested in buying it though... Rich
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Re: teak maintenance
Bill,
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There is a link that you should read about teak care/maintenance: My personal experience with working with the one and two part teak cleaners was pretty good. They got most (if not all) of the really dark spots to lighten up before finishing. These cleaners can raise up the grain a bit so it is best to do a light hand sanding on the spots you have treated. On sanding, I reccommend using the wet/dry black sandpaper as when the paper gets full of dust you just soak it in water for a minute or two and it is (nearly) as good as new and ready to be used again. The finer the grit the better (120, 180, 220 etc) as it will wear the teak down less and leave a nice smooth surface. I always put teak oil on bare teak as I am a sucker for the way it brings out the color and grain. Let it dry and re-coat as necessary but wipe down with acetone before finishing. I am also a sucker for the way varnished teak looks but I am getting quite tired of the maintenance the varnish requires especially on the toe/rub rail. The varnish on the wood in my cabin has held up wonderfully but all of the external teak requires a lot of work to keep it looking it's best. While I have not put any Cetol on my external teak (yet) I have applied it to a friends 32' Endeavor. The trick with Cetol seems to be to use either the Marine or Teak Cetol first, applying at least 2 coats and then topping it with another 2 coats of the clear stuff. This is what other boat owners who use Cetol have told me. The annual maintenance for Cetol seems to be to do the lightest of sanding prior to putting a fresh coat of Clear Cetol in the spring. Cetol looks pretty good on teak as long as you don't get varnish envy while looking at someones beautifully varnished boat. There is also a finish called Bristol Finish which is supposed to be quite durable but is fairly expensive that I have not used. I think the finish is more like a varnish finish but tougher. Your mileage on the use of clear epoxy may vary from mine. I used it on the lazarette covers and it is starting to yellow where it is separating from the wood. I am chipping away at the yellow spots in the hope that I wont have to sand all the epoxy coating off. I also only put varnish on top of the clear epoxy and it might have held up better had I used a Cetol product to protect the epoxy from UV rays. Even though an employee at Worst Marine swore to me that he did it on his boat and it had held up great I still think it is more work than necessary with potentially questionable benefits. Good luck with your external teak. Caleb D #328 Odalisque -----Original Message-----
From: ackermwi <back22@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 11:02 pm Subject: [T27Owners] teak maintenance Recent discussions have touched on teak maintenance. So far I've heard about epoxy, but with a response that it's not working too well after 3 years. the other recommendation was for Cetol. Anybody have other recommendations? Is anyone cleaning teak successfully by any means other than sanding? Re Cetol, there are 3 types for marine apps: Lite, Marine and Teak. Any recommendations which one? I understand that the Teak type contains a new type of UV inhibitor, which should be a plus. --Bill #327 Yahoo! Groups Links ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. |
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teak maintenance
ackermwi
Recent discussions have touched on teak maintenance. So far I've
heard about epoxy, but with a response that it's not working too well after 3 years. the other recommendation was for Cetol. Anybody have other recommendations? Is anyone cleaning teak successfully by any means other than sanding? Re Cetol, there are 3 types for marine apps: Lite, Marine and Teak. Any recommendations which one? I understand that the Teak type contains a new type of UV inhibitor, which should be a plus. --Bill #327 |
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Re: LOLA 438
Richard,
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Glad to hear that you are making progress in restoring Lola T27 #438. I wish you well with all your projects and the ice box removal one has been a happy experience for most owners who have done it (I have not, yet). It is gratifying to know that your engine is in good shape so doing the work yourself can be quite satisfying. Do you still have an A4 engine or did you upgrade to a diesel? I can't remember which engine you have. I have the 'epoxy bug' myself. Several years ago I used West System clear hardener on some of the external teak before varnishing. I am not that impressed by the performance of the epoxy over teak after a few (3) years. Many edges on the lazarettes are where the epoxy is separating from the wood. Maybe part of that problem stems from my addiction to teak oil and what it does for feak. I think that one of the least maintenance prone finishes might be Cetol rather than varnish or epoxy with a sealer. I have a love-hate relationship with the teak toe/rub rail on my boat. The overhang at the hull/deck joint sticks out about 2" and is not really a blue water design and my teak toe/rub rail has taken a beating on occasion. I guess I will replace it if and when I try to to sell. So far this summer I have raced my T7 a bunch of times on the Hudson and have been playing with my 19' Lightning sailboat in Long Island Sound. There is a high pressure system over us at the moment and there is almost no wind so swimming has been an important activity lately, O not to mention fishing and clamming in moderation. I hope you get some time on the water this summer and fall as the winds pick up. I hope I do too. Caleb #328 Odalisque, 1967 -----Original Message-----
From: rshearley <rshearley@...> To: T27Owners@... Sent: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 8:51 pm Subject: [T27Owners] LOLA 438 Thought I'd take a minute to update the progress of LOLA I've been plugging away at restoring her for almost a year now.. The engine is 90% done - just need to update the wiring. I pulled all the hardware and all the teak off the deck and ended up using penetrating epoxy to seal it all. Hopefully this will address the crazing issues. I sanded the hull and treated it to epoxy also. I used a non-blushing epoxy thinned with 50% xylene. Epoxyproducts.com... excellent company. I've been refinishing all the teak. the rubrail has been a pain but was OK enough to refinish. I ended up removing it also... the boat is almost completely stripped inside and out. The coaming boards removal prompted me to pull the ice box and invloved some finish woodworking involving a maul and a sawzall! I think a lot of water was getting in through the ice box cockpit hatch so i glassed over it.. This has really opened up the cabin. The topsides and hull are just about ready for paint. I'm not 100% sure on paint... either interlux brightside poly, Interlux perfection 2 part or system 3 water borne LPU.. Anyone have any input? I've become addicted to epoxy and think I'm going to use it on the brightwork also... as well as the interior... Then just use a poly with UV protection to finish it... I'm looking to reduce future maintenance... I'm using an aluminum polyurethane to paint the mast, the winch bases and possibly the ports... I tried polishing them but there's just too much weathering . Eventually I'd like to replace the ports with opening ones... I've posted a few pics and will add more when I get a little more work done... I've got the O'day 22 for sale so have to finish by next spring! thanks again for keeping the forum alive and well! Rich Yahoo! Groups Links ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. |
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LOLA 438
Thought I'd take a minute to update the progress of LOLA
I've been plugging away at restoring her for almost a year now.. The engine is 90% done - just need to update the wiring. I pulled all the hardware and all the teak off the deck and ended up using penetrating epoxy to seal it all. Hopefully this will address the crazing issues. I sanded the hull and treated it to epoxy also. I used a non-blushing epoxy thinned with 50% xylene. Epoxyproducts.com... excellent company. I've been refinishing all the teak. the rubrail has been a pain but was OK enough to refinish. I ended up removing it also... the boat is almost completely stripped inside and out. The coaming boards removal prompted me to pull the ice box and invloved some finish woodworking involving a maul and a sawzall! I think a lot of water was getting in through the ice box cockpit hatch so i glassed over it.. This has really opened up the cabin. The topsides and hull are just about ready for paint. I'm not 100% sure on paint... either interlux brightside poly, Interlux perfection 2 part or system 3 water borne LPU.. Anyone have any input? I've become addicted to epoxy and think I'm going to use it on the brightwork also... as well as the interior... Then just use a poly with UV protection to finish it... I'm looking to reduce future maintenance... I'm using an aluminum polyurethane to paint the mast, the winch bases and possibly the ports... I tried polishing them but there's just too much weathering . Eventually I'd like to replace the ports with opening ones... I've posted a few pics and will add more when I get a little more work done... I've got the O'day 22 for sale so have to finish by next spring! thanks again for keeping the forum alive and well! Rich |
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Re: hull # location
Thanks for your responses.
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We found it's 26. --- In T27Owners@..., "ackermwi" <back22@...> wrote:
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Re: hull # location
ackermwi
Another way you might find your hull number is to check on the bill
or former registration, if you have these. Before the HIN system was required, only the hull number existed, so many states use that as the HIN. For example, hull 327 would be listed as T27327 or something similar. --Bill Ackerman --- In T27Owners@..., "ginkirkendall" <ginkirk@...> wrote: of thing?owners &have a 1962 Tartan 27 but don't know the hull #. |
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Re: hull # location
tartan27plee
Your best bet is to call up the previous owner and ask if he knows the hull #. He/she will
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most likely know. Then you can order a replacement on Tartan Yachts web site. A 1962 T27 should in the range of hull #12-49. Good luck! --- In T27Owners@..., "ginkirkendall" <ginkirk@...> wrote:
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Re: hull # location
--- In T27Owners@..., Bill Davis <backstay13@...> wrote:
companionway hatch.
oo - OK. That's no longer with us. Will Tartan provide that kind of thing?
b=10&m=s&o=0 & have a 1962 Tartan 27 but don't know the hull #. |
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Re: hull # location
My plate (1964 Hull #79)?is located?on the aft end of the companionway hatch. ? Bill Davis? ginkirkendall wrote:
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