Caleb,
thanks for the response. The link is pretty thorough, although I
think started feeling depressed towards then end when he mentioned six
coats! Ah, well, at least working on the boat isn't actually at all
like 'work':)
I think I'll start by using Don Casey's suggestion of light cleaner
first and see how it goes. --Bill
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--- In T27Owners@..., calebjess@... wrote:
Bill,
There is a link that you should read about teak care/maintenance:
My personal experience with working with the one and two part teak
cleaners was pretty good. They got most (if not all) of the really
dark spots to lighten up before finishing. These cleaners can raise up
the grain a bit so it is best to do a light hand sanding on the spots
you have treated.
On sanding, I reccommend using the wet/dry black sandpaper as when the
paper gets full of dust you just soak it in water for a minute or two
and it is (nearly) as good as new and ready to be used again. The
finer the grit the better (120, 180, 220 etc) as it will wear the teak
down less and leave a nice smooth surface. I always put teak oil on
bare teak as I am a sucker for the way it brings out the color and
grain. Let it dry and re-coat as necessary but wipe down with acetone
before finishing.
I am also a sucker for the way varnished teak looks but I am getting
quite tired of the maintenance the varnish requires especially on the
toe/rub rail. The varnish on the wood in my cabin has held up
wonderfully but all of the external teak requires a lot of work to keep
it looking it's best.
While I have not put any Cetol on my external teak (yet) I have applied
it to a friends 32' Endeavor. The trick with Cetol seems to be to use
either the Marine or Teak Cetol first, applying at least 2 coats and
then topping it with another 2 coats of the clear stuff. This is what
other boat owners who use Cetol have told me. The annual maintenance
for Cetol seems to be to do the lightest of sanding prior to putting a
fresh coat of Clear Cetol in the spring. Cetol looks pretty good on
teak as long as you don't get varnish envy while looking at someones
beautifully varnished boat.
There is also a finish called Bristol Finish which is supposed to be
quite durable but is fairly expensive that I have not used. I think
the finish is more like a varnish finish but tougher.
Your mileage on the use of clear epoxy may vary from mine. I used it
on the lazarette covers and it is starting to yellow where it is
separating from the wood. I am chipping away at the yellow spots in
the hope that I wont have to sand all the epoxy coating off. I also
only put varnish on top of the clear epoxy and it might have held up
better had I used a Cetol product to protect the epoxy from UV rays.
Even though an employee at Worst Marine swore to me that he did it on
his boat and it had held up great I still think it is more work than
necessary with potentially questionable benefits.
Good luck with your external teak.
Caleb D
#328 Odalisque
-----Original Message-----
From: ackermwi <back22@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 11:02 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] teak maintenance
Recent discussions have touched on teak maintenance. So far I've
heard about epoxy, but with a response that it's not working too well
after 3 years. the other recommendation was for Cetol.
Anybody have other recommendations?
Is anyone cleaning teak successfully by any means other than sanding?
Re Cetol, there are 3 types for marine apps: Lite, Marine and Teak.
Any recommendations which one? I understand that the Teak type
contains a new type of UV inhibitor, which should be a plus.
--Bill #327
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