I added afew more pictures of my progress. Got new plywood cut and
fitted today. The deck is a wierd composition. Basically 3 types of
deck laminate. One is straight fiberglass, the second is fiberglassed
with end grain balsa, and the third is fiberglass with plywood. The
non cored is obvious as it is thinner than the rest of the deck and
makes a nice solid sound when tapped with a plastic hammer. The balsa
and plywood cored deck is indistinguishable from each other but make
a more hollow thunk (especially where it's mush). I am finding that
some areas that I expect to be all balsa is both balsa and plywood.
I've been lucky so far that non of the plywood really needs
replacing. But I have ended up doing the ply areas that I thought
were balsa. The area in front of the companion way (or aft of the
companionway) is a mix of both. The coring stops at the edge of the
companion way before the icebox hatch but extends all the way to the
side deck on starboard side. I cut all the way over, but had I known
I would have saved the little bit of side deck to do with the rest of
the side deck. Again I expected balsa but instead the bit of side
deck is ply. I'm sure there is balsa further up though next to the
cabin. I also imagine that as the years went on the actual coring
plan probably changed. so one might want to drill for a smaple before
cutting specific areas. In the end it will all be solid and won't
really matter I guess.
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

No I have not YET. But may soon. I have two potential buyers right now. I deleted it because I can't really show the boat this week and I was getting flooded with emails wanting to see the boat. I need to manage and screen people better. Too many no shows and I end us wasting the weekend waiting for people instead of going out and enjoy the summer.

Here's the ad if and a link for photos if you need to reference it or forward it to people.

Tartan 27 A true classic cruiser designed by Sparkman & Stephen. Hull number 213. This boat has been extensively rebuilt/restored with professional workmanship including:
? New getcoat
? New portlights
? New interior teak & mahogany
? New paint job
? Complete rebuilt of the Atomic 4 engine
? New starter
? New water pump
? New thermostat
? All teak exterior has been replaced
I ran out of time, got married, started a family and now I am looking for a good home for this great boat. This boat will need someone with the skill and desire to complete finish where I left off. It’s already 90% done. The interior was completely cleaned out and redone. But I have not gotten to the final touches of selecting electronics, head, cushions and etc. The boat is super clean and well restored. Includes roller furling, 2 sets of mainsails (one with full battens), 3 sets of genoas, and sail cover. This boat was designed to sleep 4 people.

The hull is sound and in great condition with an exceptional survey report.

Serious buyers only, no scammers, no wire transfer.

$2,500. This boat ranges from $6K to $25K on yachtworld.com. Finish the restoration and sell it for a profit or I hope the buyer will keep it and sail it.

Click on this link to see photo gallery of the boat.

You deleted the craiglisting, have you sold the boat?

I was the Art Director at SAIL magazine when I came across Sailboat Transporter's trailers.
The are built like no others, and I wouldn't trust anything but the strongest for a boat like the
T27. Here's their link and an article we wrote about the company at SAIL.





Good luck. Tell him Paul Lee sent you, may be he will give you a good deal.

Paul

Hi Chris
You can start by looking at my boat pics to get an idea of what a
trailer looks like for a T27.
It is all alluminum, 4 axle and it weighs a ton, really, I'm not sure
of it's exact weight but when empty it is almost impossible to move
without a tow of sorts.
One year relocating the empty trailer my buddy hauled it with his s-
10 and I'm not sure if he was pulling the trailer or if the trailer
was pushing him. It was almost too much for that truck till we got to
the interstate and got the mass rolling, early morning, weekend, off
season no traffic sunday.
I think the biggest problem is that fourth axle, it's a bear to turn
with but supports the load nicely. I think each axle is rated #3500.
I've pulled it, boat on, with a F-150 VERY SLOWLY tops 35-40 mph on
the interstate for that short ride from the marina to home, 10 miles
backroads, 2-3 miles interstate, just once, that winter while under
warranty, there was a premature bearing failure in the F-150 rear
end, I think a combination of the tounge weight and the aprox.
#10,000 had someting to do with that. Now my F-350 that I used to
have just snickered at the boat and said "how far and how fast ya
want to go".
It's a great trailer, easy to sand and bottom paint on it, and can
still move it around in the yard with the right vehicle.

Steve
Bella Domenica #196

Hi Everyone,

I'm looking for a trailer. Who isn't right? I seem to remember there
being a set of plans to built a trailer in the "Files" section some
time back. Am I crazy? My imagination?

I know how large a vehicle would be needed to pull such a monster but
I'm really tired of paying to haul it and deal with renting jack
stands, etc... to work on my boat. I want to pull the trigger and get
a trailer. If anyone has any leads, I'd love to hear from you.

And to all the folks on the East coast, I'm glad you faired well
through Hana.

Chris
#466

Back to Work! Hanna came and went without much trouble. Water got so
low afterwards that all the crab pots were sticking out of the water.
Now the Recore has resumed. Went after the section in front of the
companion way today. Was much easier to work with than the cockpit
floor as I didn't have to kneel or lay on the lockers and reach down
below me to work. On the other hand the cockpit was an easy rectangle
with 4 walls as saw guides. Also I can now stand in my cockpit. It is
nice and solid. what a difference! I found the area I'm working on now
is part balsa and part plywood. Again the balsa was mush but the ply
was fairly solid. I thought it would be easier to cut right up to the
edge of the coring instead of leaving the lip you have to leave when
cutting next to the bulkheads. Tartan didn't lay in the balsa or
plywood exactly square or straight and I ended up cutting through thin
noncored fiberglass by accident in a few spots. oops! nothing major,
easy fix since I'm already doing this project. Count on leaving a lip
all the way around your cutout section. You can figure rough location
of edges by looking under the deck for the raised (upside down) areas.
Give yourself an inch or two inward from apparent edge and cut there.
The old ply wood was a little tricky as I had to cut it a second time
with the blade depth just low enough to cut though the ply and not into
the bottom skin. Again Tartan didn't lay these core pieces exactly
level so your depth of cut will change. I cut just deep enough to be
able to break out the last layer of plywood with a chisel, screwdriver
or putty knife. If your entire deck is mush this will be alot easier,
but as I said my old plywood coring is in decent shape. Top skin off,
old coring out and cleaned up both inside sufaces with the grinder. By
The way...Grinding Fiberglass SUCKS! I have a full paper suit with
hoody and repirator. I still ich all over! Some folks say they did this
project from the underside. i just can't imagine it with the mess,
working above your head, and the mess. did I mention the mess and how
much fun fiberglass dust is. My favorite is when I pull off the
respirator and then a few minutes later I realize there is a 4 foot
stream of snot hanging out of my nose. Sorry, no pics of that one.
Again, overall went fairly easy and cleaned up nicely. I'll try to take
some more pictures tomorrow and get the new coring cut and fitted. For
you folks getting ready to tackle this project indoors, make sure you
think about the dust. You make alot really quick and I'm sure we all
know that fiberglass dust doesn't just vacuum right up. If anyone has
good suggestions on dealing with it I'd love to hear it.
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

Well Hanna is here. Actually right next store. The eye (it has a loosly
formed eye for a tropicl storm )is maybe within 60-100 miles away as I
write this. we are right in the SE quadrant tucked into one of the
clear spots between arms of the storm with little rain so far. looks
like everything around us is getting very wet though. Wind is blowing
hard. Only up to 52 mph so far about 6 minues ago with average
sustained at 27mph. Been through worse here. A few branches flying
around and some garbage can lids. Heavy winds through masts and lines
is always an eerie sound to me. Sunrise found a little hole in the
clouds for a minute or two and was very pretty. Thanks to everyone
that expressed concern and offered a place to stay.
Bob
Oriental, NC
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

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I purchased this boat when I was still the Art Director at SAIL magazine. The previous
owner spent 6 years restoring it to the condition it is today. After I bought it, I rebuilt the
Atomic 4 engine (30hp) with the advice and help of Don Moyer (the Atomic guru). We also
preformed an engine flush, which people rarely do, but the benefits are 10 folds. After the
rebuilt and flushing, the engine then winterized for storage. All these projects were then
turned into SAIL magazine articles slated to run something next year. So you can say this
was a project boat for SAIL magazine with the technical know-how of the SAIL staff.

What the boat needs/lacks are all electronics, cushions, head, galley sink & stove. That's
it. It would require some woodworking skills to rebuild a galley sink&stove area. It was
originally removed when the previous owner changed the chain plates. I still have the
originally stove wish I will include. I see what's missing as cosmetic and vary depending on
personal taste on brand of electronics and etc.

Anyway, I really debated hard about selling the beautiful classic boat, but I have to be
realistic and know that I won't have time for the next 5-6 years. I want to make sure the
boat goes to good hands. Someone who can appreciate it and more importantly, finished
the restoration and sail it.

I am located in Malden, MA. The boat in in my backyard.

Paul





--- In T27Owners@..., peter kennedy <peterscommitment@...> wrote:

what does it still need?? does it have a 2 or 3 blade prop? where are you located? im in

mass near boston.

--- On Thu, 9/4/08, tartan27plee <tartan27plee@...> wrote:

From: tartan27plee <tartan27plee@...>
Subject: [T27Owners] For Sale - My wonderfully nearly done restored T27
To: T27Owners@...
Date: Thursday, September 4, 2008, 10:21 PM







I have just posted my Tartan 27 #213 on Craigslist.org.
It is in beautiful condition, but there's still 10-15% more work that needs to be done to
complete the restoration. I just ran out of time with a new baby as an addition to our

family.

See the link and many photos on
. craigslist. org/gbs/boa/ 827832616. html

Paul
macplee@yahoo. com

I have just posted my Tartan 27 #213 on Craigslist.org.
It is in beautiful condition, but there's still 10-15% more work that needs to be done to
complete the restoration. I just ran out of time with a new baby as an addition to our family.

See the link and many photos on


Paul
macplee@...

Hi Bob
I'm sure your glad that cockpit floor is done and good luck with Hanna,
she looks like a lot of rain and very very wind at this point, hope she
doesn't get her strenght back. Ike looks like the real deal. We start
getting the remmenants of Gostuve (spelling) tommorrow.
I'm happy to know that you and others have done this recoring thing
that I should be able to also do it.
If I can put the money aside I would like to do it this winter, that is
refurbish the boat.
There are numerous storage units available for rent in our area. A 16'
x 40' unit rents for $350 a month and heat for about 6 months runs
about $20 a month, if you get a unit that has other units on each side
of ya.
I figure that if I keep a temp. of about 65 degrees when doing epoxy
work, I'll have plenty of working time with the epoxy. I would like to
vacum bag the areas for clamping ability and pulling out excess resin.
I have soft spots on the foredeck, side decks and cockpit floor to
replace probably the stern also.
Good luck with the weather
Steve

Cockpit floor is epoxied in! whew! Went well but as always with these
old boats I had a few small hicups, but was able to deal with them.
SHADE is very important. For the epoxy and your noggin. I used 206
slow hardner as it is still hitting around 90 here and knew I would
need extra time anyhow. I didn't take into acount that decks get
around UberHOT in 90 degree weather. So some of the thickened epoxy I
shoved under the lip kicked before I could get the board in place.
Luckily my wife was walking by and heard the cursing. She Rocks as
she came on board and held a big sheet of cardboard as shade for me
and the cockpit. I was able to bust the kicked epoxy out with a
chisle and get new epoxy in place as I needed it. Otherwise it all
went quickly and well. Looking back, I should of had a fan blowing
into the cockpit as well to slow the epoxy kicking. Also lucky was
that I had everything cut and ready to go before I started. I thought
I would have more time between steps, but in the end found I barely
had enough. The wife saved my butt as well as the project. I think I
chugged half a gallon of water when I was finally able to sit down. A
few hours later, I picked up the paint cans (gallon jugs of water
would work well also) and plywood I used as clamping pressure. Floor
looked great, and came out level with a very slight lean toward the
scuppers. PERFECT! Now I am running around packing up tools and
materials and buttoning down boats, as Hanna is headed straight for
us. Hurrican Season is so much FUN!
Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

I've got some photos of the cockpit floor recoring in my photo album. I
got new marine ply cut and dry fitted right now. Hopefully will do
epoxy tomorrow. I'll shove thickened epoxy under the edge lips and wet
out the bottom surface. Lay down some wetted out glass mat. Wet out the
plywood. Stick into position and fill cracks in between pieces. another
layer of wetted out mat. wet out topskin underside and put in position.
laydown a piece of plastic and a piece of plywood to fit over whole
floor and top off with a bunch of paint cans. Plastic, ply and paint
cans are to clamp down layers evenly and flat. I'm going to do all the
seams together when the other sections are done. the coring I cut out
in one piece to size then cut into 6 smaller pieces. this gives you an
1/8" saw blade gap inbetween each piece. The gap filled with thickened
epoxy gives a more solid joint than having the pieces butted against
each other. tecnically a scarf joint would be best but seriously anal
and I'd like to finish this project this year. I decided to keep the
old gas fill where it is as it will make a good spot for a temporary
cockpit table leg. I'll put an endcap on the inside of the fill. and
leave the gas cap in place when no table.

I know, I know...I'm supposed to be on vacation. Well, we've got a
couple of hurricans heading our way (NC coast), so we decided to stay
and prepare for them. Looks like Hanna will be hitting us Saturday
morning. Good time to have your decks tore up. Glad I only did one
section at a time.

Bob
SV Gabba Hey
1964 #90

Bill,
If your nipples are exposed perhaps it is time to put a bra or shirt on your centerboard trunk!!!
If you have experience working underwater with SCUBA equipment, underwater light etc. you should be able to inspect your board with no problem. You could probably do it with just SNORKEL gear if you are feeling robust. If you have limited underwater skills I would not try to lower the board while in the water.
BTW, the nipples (or bolts) on our centerboard pivot pin T27 are exposed as well.
Caleb D.
T27 #328 'Odalisque' 1967

well, thank you all for the comments regarding inspecting the c/b on
the water, and especially thank you, Steve.

Having read the pro's and cons (mostly cons), I think I'm not brave or
desperate enough to be the first to drop the board intentionally while
on the water. It seems like it would be possible since it's only
slightly below the water line, but difficult and uncertain. I hate
uncertain when I don't have a backup plan.

And, for full disclosure, I checked and my nipples are exposed.

--Bill #327

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