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Has anybody seen or have a diagram of deck and cockpit drains. Bilge pumps placements etc. I have the boat on the hard and replacing pumps, hoses etc. I'm sure there's some logic in place but to me it

Hi ! Note : There cannot be any such thing as a zinc prop nut. The prop would be lost right away ! However, a " prop nut anode " is attached by a bracket held on by the s/s prop nut. Btw, these are

Whether the zinc prop nut wastes away quickly or not it protects the prop. T27Owners@...> wrote: -- Cheers Brian

Hi , thx for reply , however, only semantics , but a zinc nut would waste away promptly . The s/s prop nut not only holds the prop on , but also holds the bracket to which the prop nut zinc anode is

If you hadn't posted to here before, welcome! The Tartan 27 Handbook available in the files area of the Yahoo group has some discussion and sometimes illustrations about each of those things. If

[T27Owners] <T27Owners@...> wrote: A little under two years. These are on my todo list. In addition to being on the hard, my mast is also unstepped. Though, I am not quite sure how to do

Hi Jeremy, If you don't want to do all this fiberglass work; A simple solution is to put a thru hull fitting in and cap it off.?My 2 cents. DaveT27 #427

Oh, and one other thought... they make gelcoat repair kits that are just small amounts of polyester/styrene and its catalyst, and pigments, and a few odds and ends to go with. If you wanted to play

Hi Jeremy, More or less. Polyester bonds to polyester better than it bonds to epoxy, but epoxy bonds well to both. Probably? General process was to spray mould release in to the mould, spray gelcoat

RegJust use epoxy and glass. Probably thicken it with fumed silica, it makes it easier to build layers, you can fair the thickened epoxy somewhat. Then a final two coats of epoxy to seal everything.

Hello, I know just enough to be dangerous! I removed an old depth sounder and have a nickel sized hole in the bottom of my boat below the waterline now. All I need to do now is glass over the hole. I

I would lean towards blue silicone exhaust hose. It ages very well. I have heater hose and have not touched it since we bought her a year ago. A haul out is in the plans. I figure I should really drop

We keep DAMSELv in Manatee Pocket, Stuart Fl. I noticed a classic 27 getting a paint job at Salerno Marine. Is that any one on this group? (no name as she is all sanded down)

Ron, The zinc prop nut is the most practical solution to anodizing your boat.? Many sailboats have exposed shaft and a strut that they can apply a collar type zinc to but with the T27 that is not an

Hygelig has a Yanmar 2 cyl diesel with a 1" shaft. A prop nut anode was used . Is this common among other T27/2 owners ? Ron S/V Hygelig

Main by North with shelf and leach adjustments good condition a bit soiled no tears $300 150% genoa, no tears, fair condition, $150 Two working jibs, no tears, fair condition, $100 each also main

I spliced on dynema 3 years ago. Looked great when I hauled in the spring Jon 560 Sent from my iPhone

Which sails do you have and how much you asking for them. Please email at kpcola@....

Changing out my centerboard cable and hose. Currently have 1/8" SS cable and 1" ID heater hose. Has anybody used Dyeema for the cable. Never liked how the cable wrapped on itself tended to get kinked