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New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118


maurygallaher
 

Hello, everyone!

Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on something
like the waybackmachine or other archives?

I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project is
currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.

After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
(about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is MIA,
so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been out
for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections are
dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice about
looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
general.

Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull numbers
had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want hundreds
of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on your
ear.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.


daiksan
 

--- In T27Owners@..., "maurygallaher" <gallaher@...>
wrote:

Hello, everyone!

Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on
something
like the waybackmachine or other archives?

I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project
is
currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.

After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
(about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is
MIA,
so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been
out
for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections
are
dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice
about
looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
general.

Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull
numbers
had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want
hundreds
of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on
your
ear.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.
Maury, is it possible that one of the the plates has 7/16 hole for
the lower shroud connection? I just picked up my new plates today.
we are goingwith a 3 1/2 wide by 18" x 1/4 (only needs 3/16 thick)
with 6 3/8"holes to be bolted inbetween the old plates (cut off
below the deck skin)and below them as well. I went with 3/8 holes
for all the clevis pins. I left the glassed gusset intact to bolt
everything to. I think we will use some king of bushing through the
old gusset at the bolts.
good luck, D
I had cover plates made up as well for better leak protection.


 

Maury,
I tried numerous web archive sites to get at the details of the old forum with limited success.? Good luck to you in this pursuit.

A few things struck me about your post:? "
centerboard is MIA..., my bilge is full of lead bricks..., there is always a wet spot there like its getting enough drips to keep it from drying out" (on the keel).? Perhaps your centerboard is MIA and is not there and marine life lives in the trunk that has been left empty.? The lead bricks in the bilge would explain the previous owners attempt to balance the weight of the boat better if the centerboard were missing (T27 centerboard weighs @ 150# - down low).? You will enjoy sailing this boat much better with a working centerboard so I suggest you do what it takes to restore this valuable control features when you can.

As far as weeping, or water slowly dripping out of the hull, our 1967 T27 shows modest signs of this not far from where you indicated.? Your bilge should be dry for the winter to minimize the risk of water seeping into the fiberglass (GRP, FRP) hull.

As for chainplate sizes, I have only fixed our aft chainplate and not replaced my stbd or port chainplates so I do not know what to tell you.? The only documentation on the rigging I have is:
Standing Rigging
?
Lower Shrouds-------- 7/32"
Upper Shrouds-------- 3/16"
Forestay?------------? ?3/16"
Backstay??------------ 3/16"
Lifelines???-------------??9/32" including vinyl 3/16" wire
Genoa Tracks?--------- 1"
Mainsheet traveler??----?7/8??? many have up graded to 1"
Spreaders?-------------?7? degrees above Horizontal
Which comes from here:? http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UNI7R523vw0Cb9oHfwO49xLQeRi7usitLpsMfx6_Qcd95Eq0N6vDUFbi2mYpNdOCQT5DXC8xw7AwA5ZnTeIVMQ/information.htm


Good luck with #118.
Caleb

?

From: maurygallaher
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 8:58 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

Hello, everyone!

Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on something
like the waybackmachine or other archives?

I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project is
currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.

After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
(about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is MIA,
so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been out
for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections are
dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice about
looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
general.

Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull numbers
had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want hundreds
of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on your
ear.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.




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Guys,
?
I am restoring hull number 79 (1963-64 I believe) and while she hasn't been in the water in many years I still had weeping for at least 6 months after I put her in my barn. She had been outside and had all the classic deck issues we all would expect. Even after a year inside she still had loads of wet deck balsa which I am sure had something to do with the weeping. I should complete that part of the project this weekend! Chainplates are next!
?
I inherited 4 - 50 odd pound lead pigs in the bilge and she does have a centerboard. My understanding is she came from Mackinaw Island via WV where I found her. My question is having never actually sailed on a T-27, are they?so tender that I need to keep the lead? I'll be sailing on Lake Murray in SC and we seldon see winds of 15 knots or more.
?
Advice from old salts is always welcome!
?
Billy Ray Davis Jr - Scarlett #79

calebjess@... wrote:
Maury,
I tried numerous web archive sites to get at the details of the old forum with limited success.? Good luck to you in this pursuit.

A few things struck me about your post:? "
centerboard is MIA..., my bilge is full of lead bricks..., there is always a wet spot there like its getting enough drips to keep it from drying out" (on the keel).? Perhaps your centerboard is MIA and is not there and marine life lives in the trunk that has been left empty.? The lead bricks in the bilge would explain the previous owners attempt to balance the weight of the boat better if the centerboard were missing (T27 centerboard weighs @ 150# - down low).? You will enjoy sailing this boat much better with a working centerboard so I suggest you do what it takes to restore this valuable control features when you can.

As far as weeping, or water slowly dripping out of the hull, our 1967 T27 shows modest signs of this not far from where you indicated.? Your bilge should be dry for the winter to minimize the risk of water seeping into the fiberglass (GRP, FRP) hull.

As for chainplate sizes, I have only fixed our aft chainplate and not replaced my stbd or port chainplates so I do not know what to tell you.? The only documentation on the rigging I have is:
Standing Rigging
?
Lower Shrouds-------- 7/32"
Upper Shrouds-------- 3/16"
Forestay?------------? ?3/16"
Backstay??------------ 3/16"
Lifelines???-------------??9/32" including vinyl 3/16" wire
Genoa Tracks?--------- 1"
Mainsheet traveler??----?7/8??? many have up graded to 1"
Spreaders?-------------?7? degrees above Horizontal
Which comes from here:? http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UNI7R523vw0Cb9oHfwO49xLQeRi7usitLpsMfx6_Qcd95Eq0N6vDUFbi2mYpNdOCQT5DXC8xw7AwA5ZnTeIVMQ/information.htm


Good luck with #118.
Caleb

?
From: maurygallaher net>
To: T27Owners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 8:58 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

Hello, everyone!

Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on something
like the waybackmachine or other archives?

I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project is
currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.

After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
(about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is MIA,
so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been out
for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections are
dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice about
looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
general.

Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull numbers
had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want hundreds
of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on your
ear.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.




Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
<*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:T27Owners-digest@yahoogroups.com
mailto:T27Owners-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: T27Owners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free !


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¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I have hull #71 and no lead pigs.? I think the PO (prev. owner) probably was trying to increase the ballast weight.? The boat sails fine without the CB.? My CB fell out during routine maintenance last year.? It was a hack job replacement anyhow.? Mine is a 1964 and yours is probably the same year.?

If you need info feel free to email me directly? or contact me through the t-27.com site.

?

Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand


 

Thanks for the replies. That's good information.

I finally braved the dripping goop from the barnacles and got under the keel with a flashlight. It looks like the inside of the trunk is dry, so I'm guessing that the source of the water is between the trunk and the rudder. Does anyone know what's inside there? It sounds hollow to me.

Also, I removed the some of the paint from the hull below the waterline and the glass seems to have lots of hairline cracks. Its unclear how deep they go. I was told that, all things considered, a couple of layers of glass and a proper paint job would be an appropriate repair given the age of the hull.

Can anyone comment on the status of their mid 1960's hulls. Any information about your experiences dealing with hull issues would be much appreciated.

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Bill Davis <backstay13@...>

Guys,

I am restoring hull number 79 (1963-64 I believe) and while she hasn't been in
the water in many years I still had weeping for at least 6 months after I put
her in my barn. She had been outside and had all the classic deck issues we all
would expect. Even after a year inside she still had loads of wet deck balsa
which I am sure had something to do with the weeping. I should complete that
part of the project this weekend! Chainplates are next!

I inherited 4 - 50 odd pound lead pigs in the bilge and she does have a
centerboard. My understanding is she came from Mackinaw Island via WV where I
found her. My question is having never actually sailed on a T-27, are they so
tender that I need to keep the lead? I'll be sailing on Lake Murray in SC and we
seldon see winds of 15 knots or more.

Advice from old salts is always welcome!

Billy Ray Davis Jr - Scarlett #79

calebjess@... wrote:
Maury,
I tried numerous web archive sites to get at the details of the old forum with
limited success. Good luck to you in this pursuit.

A few things struck me about your post: "centerboard is MIA..., my bilge is
full of lead bricks..., there is always a wet spot there like its getting enough
drips to keep it from drying out" (on the keel). Perhaps your centerboard is
MIA and is not there and marine life lives in the trunk that has been left
empty. The lead bricks in the bilge would explain the previous owners attempt
to balance the weight of the boat better if the centerboard were missing (T27
centerboard weighs @ 150# - down low). You will enjoy sailing this boat much
better with a working centerboard so I suggest you do what it takes to restore
this valuable control features when you can.

As far as weeping, or water slowly dripping out of the hull, our 1967 T27 shows
modest signs of this not far from where you indicated. Your bilge should be dry
for the winter to minimize the risk of water seeping into the fiberglass (GRP,
FRP) hull.

As for chainplate sizes, I have only fixed our aft chainplate and not replaced
my stbd or port chainplates so I do not know what to tell you. The only
documentation on the rigging I have is: Standing Rigging
Lower Shrouds-------- 7/32"
Upper Shrouds-------- 3/16"
Forestay ------------ 3/16"
Backstay ------------ 3/16"
Lifelines ------------- 9/32" including vinyl 3/16" wire
Genoa Tracks --------- 1"
Mainsheet traveler ---- 7/8 many have up graded to 1"
Spreaders ------------- 7 degrees above Horizontal
Which comes from here:

DUFbi2mYpNdOCQT5DXC8xw7AwA5ZnTeIVMQ/information.htm



Good luck with #118.
Caleb



From: maurygallaher <gallaher@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 8:58 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118


Hello, everyone!

Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on something
like the waybackmachine or other archives?

I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project is
currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.

After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
(about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is MIA,
so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been out
for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections are
dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice about
looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
general.

Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull numbers
had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want hundreds
of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on your
ear.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.




Yahoo! Groups Links



---------------------------------
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!






---------------------------------
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Matthias Klemm
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Just glass and paint won¡¯t do it. The fiberglass and paint itself is not waterproof. You will need some kind of barriercoat. ?I had the same problem and just ground out the cracks down to the fiberglass and faired with marine filler. Then I barrier coated the underwater portion of the hull. Usually you end up with 4 coats, 3 barrier and 1 primer to receive the bottom paint. So far it¡¯s holding up beautifully.

?

Matthias

?

From: T27Owners@... [mailto:T27Owners@...] On Behalf Of gallaher@...
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:08
To: T27Owners@...
Subject: Re: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118

?

Thanks for the replies. That's good information.

I finally braved the dripping goop from the barnacles and got under the keel with a flashlight. It looks like the inside of the trunk is dry, so I'm guessing that the source of the water is between the trunk and the rudder. Does anyone know what's inside there? It sounds hollow to me.

Also, I removed the some of the paint from the hull below the waterline and the glass seems to have lots of hairline cracks. Its unclear how deep they go. I was told that, all things considered, a couple of layers of glass and a proper paint job would be an appropriate repair given the age of the hull.

Can anyone comment on the status of their mid 1960's hulls. Any information about your experiences dealing with hull issues would be much appreciated.

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Bill Davis <backstay13@...>
>
> Guys,
>
> I am restoring hull number 79 (1963-64 I believe) and while she hasn't been in
> the water in many years I still had weeping for at least 6 months after I put
> her in my barn. She had been outside and had all the classic deck issues we all
> would expect. Even after a year inside she still had loads of wet deck balsa
> which I am sure had something to do with the weeping. I should complete that
> part of the project this weekend! Chainplates are next!
>
> I inherited 4 - 50 odd pound lead pigs in the bilge and she does have a
> centerboard. My understanding is she came from Mackinaw Island via WV where I
> found her. My question is having never actually sailed on a T-27, are they so
> tender that I need to keep the lead? I'll be sailing on Lake Murray in SC and we
> seldon see winds of 15 knots or more.
>
> Advice from old salts is always welcome!
>
> Billy Ray Davis Jr - Scarlett #79
>
> calebjess@... wrote:
> Maury,
> I tried numerous web archive sites to get at the details of the old forum with
> limited success. Good luck to you in this pursuit.
>
> A few things struck me about your post: "centerboard is MIA..., my bilge is
> full of lead bricks..., there is always a wet spot there like its getting enough
> drips to keep it from drying out" (on the keel). Perhaps your centerboard is
> MIA and is not there and marine life lives in the trunk that has been left
> empty. The lead bricks in the bilge would explain the previous owners attempt
> to balance the weight of the boat better if the centerboard were missing (T27
> centerboard weighs @ 150# - down low). You will enjoy sailing this boat much
> better with a working centerboard so I suggest you do what it takes to restore
> this valuable control features when you can.
>
> As far as weeping, or water slowly dripping out of the hull, our 1967 T27 shows
> modest signs of this not far from where you indicated. Your bilge should be dry
> for the winter to minimize the risk of water seeping into the fiberglass (GRP,
> FRP) hull.
>
> As for chainplate sizes, I have only fixed our aft chainplate and not replaced
> my stbd or port chainplates so I do not know what to tell you. The only
> documentation on the rigging I have is: Standing Rigging
> Lower Shrouds-------- 7/32"
> Upper Shrouds-------- 3/16"
> Forestay ------------ 3/16"
> Backstay ------------ 3/16"
> Lifelines ------------- 9/32" including vinyl 3/16" wire
> Genoa Tracks --------- 1"
> Mainsheet traveler ---- 7/8 many have up graded to 1"
> Spreaders ------------- 7 degrees above Horizontal
> Which comes from here:
>
> DUFbi2mYpNdOCQT5DXC8xw7AwA5ZnTeIVMQ/information.htm
>
>
>
> Good luck with #118.
> Caleb
>
>
>
> From: maurygallaher <gallaher@...>
> To: T27Owners@...
> Sent: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 8:58 pm
> Subject: [T27Owners] New Owner already has a dozen projects on hull 118
>
>
> Hello, everyone!
>
> Does anyone know if the old t-27.com stuff is available on something
> like the waybackmachine or other archives?
>
> I've seen the posts on the chain plate replacements. That project is
> currently underway. Is there any difference between the inner and
> outer chainplates. They looked the same to me.
>
> After haul out, I noticed that the blocks placed under the keel
> (about 8 inches from the end) are always wet. The centerboard is MIA,
> so it might just be years of marine life draining, but its been out
> for weeks and there is always a wet spot there like its getting
> enough drips to keep it from drying out. The aft sections of the
> bilge still have a little water in them and the forward sections are
> dry. I'm concerned about the keel bolts. Anyone have any advice about
> looking into this? Any advice about inspecting the keel bolts in
> general.
>
> Also, my bilge is full of lead bricks. I read that later hull numbers
> had the ballast encased in the keel. Can anyone shed some light on
> this. A friend made a very lucid remark that you don't want hundreds
> of pounds of lead coming out of the bilge if you get knocked on your
> ear.
>
> Anyway, thanks in advance for the info. Glad to be here.
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.