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Re: used sunfish experience
Hi John, Where in Upstate Ny are you located? I am located in
Brewerton,NY and I am also looking for a Sunfish for this summer.If you come accross any that you dont want please let me know.I looked at one tonight for 650.00 with the trailer that had to many patches on the hull for me,I am still looking.I came across a 20 + year old Lazer but the guy wanted 1200.00 for it,These people are nuts. Thanks Mike |
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Re: Boat weight and replacement lines
kendall
--- In sunfish_sailor@..., "Wayne Carney" <wcarney@f...>
wrote: Hi Bob,materials or epoxy filler. The last step is to sand the repair smooth to match theWiley err, the last step is paint and polish! just kiddin, just want to add that you should sand an area large enough around the repair area that the repair is all on bare glass, paint and gell coat don't hold the resin well enough to last, and while you may have done everything right, it won't turn out or last as well. use a good filler to smooth out the area, bondo works, but you may want to try something more non-absorbent, like gorilla hair, it's not as expensive as regular marine grade material, and being fiberglass it adds strength to the surface, after the final patch, and if you take your time and sand it well, you'll have a hard time finding where the patch actually is after paint. ken. |
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Re: Boat weight and replacement lines
Wayne Carney
Hi Bob,
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I will venture a guess-timate of $100 to $200 to have a boat shop fix your hull. Boat repairs tend to be a bit labor intensive so the price gets up there quickly. If you are game to learn a little fiberglass repair, fixing a crack or hole at a curve is no more difficult than one on a flat surface. If the crack goes through to the inside it will be best to install an inspection port for access. You will want to lay in a strip or two of fiberglass cloth on the inside to back up the repair spot. Beyond that it's a matter of scraping and opening the crack to clean away any loose material back to undamaged glass. Then filling the area with fiberglass materials or epoxy filler. The last step is to sand the repair smooth to match the surrounding hull. Check out, "The Fiberglass Repair and Construction Handbook" by Jack Wiley Good Luck, Wayne -----Original Message----- |
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Re: used sunfish experience
Gail M. Turluck
If the whole cockpit tub was full of water and froze, that might have done
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it. Sometimes kids jumping in it can do it. Sometimes it's damage from trailing. If the boats need to be stored outside, upside down and covered is best. --G ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail M. Turluck Sunfish 24186 -----Original Message-----
From: newtosail [mailto:newtosail@...] Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 11:49 AM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: [sunfish_sailor] used sunfish experience Thanks for your input Gail & Wayne. Since I have no experience in fiberglass repair, I'll hold out for another chance. Is it anyone's guess as to what caused the crack? The owner seemed as surprised as I was disappointed to see it. I wondered if it was the fact that it had been stored upright, outside (on it's trailer for the last few years,) going thru our upstate NY freeze/thaws with the plug left in. But that's only a guess. John If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Yahoo! Groups Links a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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used sunfish experience
newtosail
Thanks for your input Gail & Wayne. Since I have no experience in
fiberglass repair, I'll hold out for another chance. Is it anyone's guess as to what caused the crack? The owner seemed as surprised as I was disappointed to see it. I wondered if it was the fact that it had been stored upright, outside (on it's trailer for the last few years,) going thru our upstate NY freeze/thaws with the plug left in. But that's only a guess. John |
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Re: used sunfish experience
Wayne Carney
Hi John,
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I bought one of those boats. Literally took four people to carry. Like Gail said they take patience to restore. If all else is in good shape the boat may be a worthy investment, but IMHO, not for $500. Mine cost $75 w/o trailer. Given the neglect factor I'd say $150 w/trailer tops! If you keep looking, $500 to $800 should get you a Fish that can be sailed right now today without much more than some ding and dent repair. Wayne -----Original Message----- |
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Re: used sunfish experience
Gail M. Turluck
As with all hulls, it's salvageable, but depends on your patience and
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ability to fiberglass. Drying it out will take at least the summer. See other postings to learn about how that works. Once you drain it, you can sail it, but then be sure to open inspection ports and be aggressive in your drying efforts. The crack repair would need to be done to slow how quickly water gets into the hull. There's been a lot written about water vapor and penetration into the Styrofoam, and it's all true. You need time and low humidity to cause the water that has been absorbed by the Styrofoam to migrate back out. If you're wanting something for this summer and don't want to have to spend a lot of time babysitting the boat to dry it out, then, yes, I'd keep looking. The advantage with the old boats is they're built with a stiffer mat than that used today. The disadvantage is that the old rudder mounting system also is a leak source, as by now you can be guaranteed that the wood block that backs up the screw into the bottom of the hull has rotted. (I've replaced enough of them, so I know ...) It's likely you can pull it out with your bare hand. It's relatively easy to install an inspection port on the top deck, replace the wood block and seal it with silicone. Then it will be good to go for another 20 years or so. Some people also choose to change to the modern rudder system, but that's become a rather pricey option these days. --G ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail M. Turluck Sunfish 24186 -----Original Message-----
From: newtosail [mailto:newtosail@...] Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 9:15 AM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: [sunfish_sailor] used sunfish experience I'm grateful that I stumbled upon this group. Your posting of what to look for when buying a used sunfish was very helpful when I checked one out that appeared in yesterday's paper ($500.00 w/ trailer!) I was able to determine it's age (1965) and, most importantly, was informed enough (thanks to your sharing) to know that maybe I should pass on this one. It had been stored under a deck for a few years under it's cover, plug in place, on it's trailer whose tongue was sitting in the dirt. The cover, heavy w/ water, sank in at the cockpit. We bailed that out and lifted off the cover. Everything looked promising, eventhough there was still water in the actual cockpit. My wife continued bailing, while I checked out the spars and sail. My excitment wained when she pointed to an open crack that ran the length of the cockpit floor. When I tried to pick up the tongue of the trailer (with the sunfish loaded) the owner poined out that the reason I couldn't lift it was because it was a very heavy boat that took four people to move the hull alone (and here I was hoping for something I could car top!) I'm hoping that you will let me know if I was correct to pass on this one. My conclusion was that, even if the cost to repair the crack was do-able, I wondered if the hull would EVER dry out. Water had seeped into the crack, filling the interior (from the bow up since the trailer was not level.) Was this boats' demise due to the plug being left in while storing, or because it was stored upright? Other than being waterlogged and the crack, it was in very good shape considering it's age. Thanks, in advance, for your input. John If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Yahoo! Groups Links a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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used sunfish experience
newtosail
I'm grateful that I stumbled upon this group. Your posting of what
to look for when buying a used sunfish was very helpful when I checked one out that appeared in yesterday's paper ($500.00 w/ trailer!) I was able to determine it's age (1965) and, most importantly, was informed enough (thanks to your sharing) to know that maybe I should pass on this one. It had been stored under a deck for a few years under it's cover, plug in place, on it's trailer whose tongue was sitting in the dirt. The cover, heavy w/ water, sank in at the cockpit. We bailed that out and lifted off the cover. Everything looked promising, eventhough there was still water in the actual cockpit. My wife continued bailing, while I checked out the spars and sail. My excitment wained when she pointed to an open crack that ran the length of the cockpit floor. When I tried to pick up the tongue of the trailer (with the sunfish loaded) the owner poined out that the reason I couldn't lift it was because it was a very heavy boat that took four people to move the hull alone (and here I was hoping for something I could car top!) I'm hoping that you will let me know if I was correct to pass on this one. My conclusion was that, even if the cost to repair the crack was do-able, I wondered if the hull would EVER dry out. Water had seeped into the crack, filling the interior (from the bow up since the trailer was not level.) Was this boats' demise due to the plug being left in while storing, or because it was stored upright? Other than being waterlogged and the crack, it was in very good shape considering it's age. Thanks, in advance, for your input. John |
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Re: Boat weight and replacement lines
bobmichigan2004
Thank you for the response, Wayne.
I did weigh the boat last night. It weighs 149 lbs, so not too bad I think. Did I read somewhere that 138 lbs was the "factory" weight? In looking more closely at the damage to the hull, it is right on the starboard corner if the stern. I'm not sure that I want to try to repair it myself because it is not a flat surface. Any guess as to how much something like this would be to repair? The crack/hole is about an inch and a half long, maybe one-eighth of an inch wide. Thanks for the help and advice. Bob |
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Re: Boat weight and replacement lines
Wayne Carney
Hi Bob,
Well, as I drained the water out through the drain plug (it probablyEek! is right.... OK, now let's reverse that process and blow a little air into the hull. While doing this go around the boat with a spray bottle filled with soapy water and spray all the edges, nooks, and crannies. Now instead of a hiss you will be looking for bubbles that indicate all the leaks. See: for a good technique that won't blow the seams apart. I assume that if I repairJudging by your description you may have lucked out and the foam floatation hasn't taken up much water at all. It is my theory that floatation blocks immersed in water take up little or no water while blocks constantly exposed to warm humid air take up a lot. This is based on the idea that closed cell foam is designed to be impervious to water in it's liquid state, however, we have observed over and over the cell wall material succumbs to osmosis when presented with water in it's vapor state. Therefore, I believe a boat with a little leak that never gets dried out is at higher risk than a boat with a noticeable hole that takes on gallons, but gets emptied and well dried between uses. So, this is why installing an inspection port is crucial even on boats that don't appear to have any leaks what so ever. Really, the factory should have been installing inspection ports as part of the design long ago. [stepping down off of my soap box] ... Sure thing, fix the leaks and go sailing. Another question I have concerns the centerboard/daggerboard (not"Daggerboard", typically "centerboard" is the term used to describe one that is attached to the boat and swings into position as opposed to a, Dagger-board which is "stabbed" through a slot or "trunk". The bottom-leading edge has been damaged Sure, use a hand-held wire brush to clean the exposed wood grain. Fill the dings and chips with a plastic wood filler -or- better yet (assuming you have some knowledge of fiberglass repair) make your own filler using polyester resin and milled glass fibers. Sand and shape the repair then varnish or polyurethane as desired. Personally, I'd refinish the entire board. If the splitting wood runs up the board and appears to threaten the integrity of the whole board, you can wrap it or lay on several layers of fiberglass cloth in the usual fiberglass repair manner. Last questions. The halyard shows a lot of wear, suggestions on whatI don't know the line lengths off the top of my head.... probably something we should post in our library of information, eh? I'll work on that one..... You probably have several bona-fied Sunfish dealers within a reasonable driving distance (unless you are in the UP) 8^) They can fit you with the right stuff. If there isn't a dealer, or any sailboat shop for that matter, in your vicinity contact Dan at Wind Line Sails There are many Sunfish dealers, Dan is just a personal favorite because of all the help he's given me and his devotion to promoting the sailing sport at every level. Hail the group again if this doesn't help or you have more questions. Wayne |
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Boat weight and replacement lines
bobmichigan2004
My Dad recently gave me his '73 AMF Sunfish. I knew nothing of the
proper way to store it so it sat upright on its trailer wrapped in a blue tarp for about a year (he had it stored in his garage for years). Well, surprise, surprise, when I went to get it ready to sail last weekend the cockpit and hull were full of water. Nit-wit that I am, I did not leave the drain plug open so rain water filled the cockpit and leaked into the hull through the air vent (at least that is how I think it got in the hull). Pretty stupid on my part. Well, as I drained the water out through the drain plug (it probably took 25 minutes, eek!) I could hear air being sucked into the hull in two places: a small hissing at the mast hole/step and another at one corner of the stern. I could not tell where in the mast step the hole was, but it was a very, very little hiss. The hole in the stern is more obvious, as it looks like the boat was dropped on that corner at some point and cracked. The hissing was easily heard while standing a few feet from the boat as it drained. This morning, I read through the posts on this forum about drying out the hull. I will try to weigh the boat tonight or tomorrow after work. I suspect it weighs less than 200 lbs because I could easily lift and slide it back on to the trailer myself. It may weigh quite a bit less than that. From what I read here, I assume that if I repair the small crack in the stern that it would cause the boat no real damage to sail it weighing in the 150 to 200 lb range? If it is that heavy, I will install an inspection port and begin the suggested drying methods, but I would like to sail it this summer, and it soulds like the drying times are measured in months. Another question I have concerns the centerboard/daggerboard (not sure which term is correct). The bottom-leading edge has been damaged over the years by running it aground. The wood is quite smashed/frayed for maybe a length of an inch or two, to a depth of maybe a half an inch, maybe a bit less. I'm not sure what the right words are to describe its condition, but you can see the individual wood fibers all seperated where it is damaged. Any sugestions on how to repair this? Last questions. The halyard shows a lot of wear, suggestions on what type of line and where to buy it? Also the outhaul lines were both broken. What is the correct type of line to replace them? Thanks for the help/advice. Bob |
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Re: minifish
Hi: for those looking for fish I sent this message out
last year. The boat is still for sale I notice. The guy just put it out in his driveway. I don't know if the proce is the same: Hi: I'm in Central NY. Someone in my neighborhood has an AMF Windflight14 for sail. It looks almost exactly like a Sunfish and judging by the hardware on it is the same vintage as my Sunfish (1972). The price is $1000.00 for boat and trailor. I could find no information about a Windflight online except that there is someone else in the country that has one for sale for $750.00. No one I talked to has ever heard of this boat. I could get the telephone number of the seller if you're interested. Bob Curley --- newtosail <newtosail@...> wrote: The minifish is in Odessa, NY. If this is a do-able __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. |
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Re: minifish
newtosail
The minifish is in Odessa, NY. If this is a do-able location, I can
e-mail you the link to the add. Thank you for the info on the minifish. --- In sunfish_sailor@..., "mrobersom" <mroberso@r...> wrote: I have sailed a minifish. It is a smaller version of a sunfish.The minifish is best for smaller sailors. They make an excellent boatfor kids. That is actually why I am writing you. I am looking for a |
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Re: minifish
Wayne Carney
Hmmmm..., I'm 6' 200+lb and I have fun with a Sunfish. It's a little
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cramped, but still lots of fun and about the easiest boat there is to set up. I believe more people learn on Sunfish and there are more Sunfish in existence than any other sailboat. If you can find one, the Holder-12 is a Laser like boat with a bit more beam (width). They were once marketed by HobieCat, but now out of production. I've seen used ones in nice shape for around $800. A little bit bigger boat, but great to learn on is the Hobie One-14. Again, out of production, but a great sailing boat for under $1800 when they can be found. Wayne -----Original Message----- |
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Re: minifish
mrobersom
I have sailed a minifish. It is a smaller version of a sunfish.
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Decent little boat. It may be a little tight for your 6'2 frame. The minifish is best for smaller sailors. They make an excellent boat for kids. That is actually why I am writing you. I am looking for a minifish. What is the location of the minifish in question? --- In sunfish_sailor@..., "newtosail" <newtosail@y...> wrote:
Well, forget my previous post requesting more info about the |
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minifish
newtosail
Well, forget my previous post requesting more info about the
minifish. Tthe person selling it didn't know anything about it (incluuding the age.) He said that it belonged to his deceased uncle. I'm thinking that if both the buyer and the seller don't know what they are looking at, it might not be worth the two hour drive to check it out; Caveat Emptor. But I appreciate this resource. If anyone has comments regarding the appropriateness of a sunfish or a laser for a middleaged, 6'2 beginner, I'd appreciate hearing from you. I took a few lessons last year and had the choice of a keeled 18'hunter, a sunfish, or a laser. I went with the keel because I thought it'd be easier on my back to not have to duck under the boom and I wouldn't have to worry about getting wet. Now, as I look at used boats, I'm finding that my budget and ability doesn't allow me to get a boat similar to what I was instructed on. So, as soon as the sailing program begins this year, I intend to take lessons on the kind of boat that I should have tried in the first place. |
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minifish
newtosail
There is an add in our paper for a 12' minifish, complete, excellent
condition for $475 but no year mentioned. I've left a message for more info. Is this boat as good as a sunfish? Should I hold out for the real thing? Anyone able to share more info about them (ease of transport, set up, & availability of parts?) I'm looking for something I can car top and use on a whim. Thank you. |
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Re: Wipeout
Wayne Carney
Hi Ken,
And cold water saps strength so quick it's amazing....Once you have experienced the phenomena you gain a lot of respect fast. We haven't had much of a Spring here in Colorado. It went from Snow and 30's to 80's in just one week. The quick warm-up gives a false sense of Summer. We just had a High Schooler swim across a small lake on a bet a week or so ago. He didn't make it. I practice recovery with, and make anyoneVERY GOOD idea. I know a lot of people who claim they can sail. I only know a few sailors. Wayne
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Re: Wipeout
kendall
--- In sunfish_sailor@..., "Wayne Carney" <wcarney@f...>
wrote: Hi Ken,drill is one of the first things a new boat owner should master. It's one of thefirst classes taught in any good sailing course. And it's why so manymembers of this group are so adamant about new sailors learning the skill early.daggerboard and flipped it upright, and rolled back on deck without ever gettingin the water. It's all a matter of practice.Oh yeah, I hadn't practiced on the sprite, as I'd sailed a similar boat, that was 5-6" longer,with 6inch less beam, and had no trouble righting it during capsize drills,but that 6" extra beam is what made the difference. And cold water saps strength so quick it's amazing to people who don't live up north, it was also the first time I had ever even considered leaving the boat and heading for shore. I had the PFD on because I knew the water was cold. since then though, any boat I get, unless it is identical to others I am familiar with I practice recovery with, and make anyone who wants to take it out prove they can right it, which doesn't exactly cause a line to form! ken. |
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Re: Wipeout
Wayne Carney
Hi Ken,
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Each boat has it's own technique as you discovered. The capsize drill is one of the first things a new boat owner should master. It's one of the first classes taught in any good sailing course. And it's why so many members of this group are so adamant about new sailors learning the skill early. Fortunately, the SunFish is one of the easier ones to right. I have capsized, stayed on the up-side gunwale, leaned on the daggerboard and flipped it upright, and rolled back on deck without ever getting in the water. It's all a matter of practice. I hope you were wearing a PFD during your incident. Cold water is very unforgiving. I'm glad you are still with us. Wayne -----Original Message----- Good on you then! gives you the confidence to push that extra little |
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