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Gail et al,

A Note on stuff to buff and clean.

Barkeeper's Friend was mentioned and I would like to say it is also Sailor's
friend. The grit it contains is Feldspar which is not nearly as abrasive as
the silica (sand) found in popular cleansers. I'd place it about half way
between Soft Scrub and Ajax. But that's not the best part. It also contains
Oxalic acid (instead of bleach). This mild acid cleans stains caused by rust
and corrosion out of fiberglass beautifully.


Wayne

Wayne,
Thanks a million!
ron
--- Wayne Carney <wcarney@...> wrote:

Hi Ron,

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Fair Winds,

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: ron elfenbein [mailto:elfenber@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 3:27 PM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: RE: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Got lucky today


HI all,

How does one get off this list? thanks
Ron

=====
Ron Elfenbein, MD



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Hi Ron,

This unsubscribe information is at the bottom of every email post.

If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor,
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... there's no need to put anything in the email body.


You can also log on to the group web site and click on "Leave Group".


Sorry you are leaving.

Fair Winds,

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: ron elfenbein [mailto:elfenber@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 3:27 PM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: RE: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Got lucky today


HI all,

How does one get off this list? thanks
Ron

The bracket is a custom design, protected, etc., and it needs to be backed
up inside the hull. The kit comes with those parts. That gets you the
stern bracket.

The rudder, rudder head/spring system, tiller (it's different), and hiking
stick all come as one unit. Finding used ones in serviceable condition is a
difficult process, at best.

I recommend new simply because you get started knowing what you have will
work. I've changed 3 boats over and it's been worth the hassle and expense.

Keep in mind, a new Sunfish today is about $3,000. So those bargains you
find in a barn or garage are worth a few extra dollars to update them.

Keep enjoying!

~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
Sunfish 24186
ISCA Masters Coordinator
USSCA Secretary
USSCA Masters Coordinator
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
"Arts is a bridge to walk across to a new life."
"Be prepared to act on your dreams just in case they do come true."
William Strickland, President and CEO, Manchester Craftsmen's Guild,
Pittsburgh, PA

It will kick up, but it all depends on how tightly you screw down the wing
nut. AND, BE REALLY SURE you keep track of the pin with the little hinged
piece on it. They don't make those any more. Somehow, when least expected,
they disappear. While you can use a bolt and a wing nut in place of it,
it's very handy.

The other thing with that system is that in a really big blow, sometimes no
matter how hard you tighten the wing nut on top, the rudder pops out
unintentionally. Occasionally I had to persuade the bottom brass piece up
(with a few hammer "taps"), to be able to keep it tight enough on windy days
that it didn't pop out. It's just an inconvenience once you're comfortable
with how the whole set up works.

You need to find that fine point of adjustment where you can line up the
rudder and tiller so the rudder blade is vertical, rock it down with the
tiller suddenly, and if everything is adjusted just right, it will pop into
the little valley in the bottom piece of the assembly and stay in. You
might need to tighten the wing nut after you get it popped in like this. If
you can, mess about with it in your back yard with the transom high enough
off the grass (propped up) that you can fiddle with it a long time until you
get the idea of how it all goes together.

As you approach shore, again, if you tightened the wing nut on top to keep
the rudder from popping out, then it's best to loosen it close to shore so
the rudder WILL pop out should it hit the bottom, or you can jerk sharply on
the tiller forward to have it pop out at the right moment. Again, more
practice here. You might even be able to mark the threads on the screw/wing
nut assembly if that's helpful for you.

Good luck!

~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
Sunfish 24186
ISCA Masters Coordinator
USSCA Secretary
USSCA Masters Coordinator
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
"Arts is a bridge to walk across to a new life."
"Be prepared to act on your dreams just in case they do come true."
William Strickland, President and CEO, Manchester Craftsmen's Guild,
Pittsburgh, PA

I just looked at the diagram in the files section.I would like to
thank who ever put that there it was very helpful.I am learning
something new every day.

Mike

If you have the rudder cant you just bolt a stock gudgeon on? Why is
the kit so expensive? is it because it contains the rudder? I am
sure there are a ton of old rudders out there and the bracket cant
cost much.

Mike


--- In sunfish_sailor@..., "Gail M. Turluck"
<turluck@c...> wrote:

Well, you could by the kit and new rudder set up and change it

over. It's

not as cheap as it used to be, though.

Check to make sure the screw into the bottom of the hull is truly

sound. If

it really wasn't sailed at all then it's probably OK. Those older

boats got

the water inside of them because the wood got wet, rotted, and

then leaked.

That whole setup is best replaced by the modern rudder rig if you

can afford

it.

No matter what, enjoy! Just make sure you drain the hull every

time you

sail it and you'll be fine.

The first 'Fish I owned was an oldie that I changed over. I've

changed 2

others ... It's a 1/2 day job once you have the parts and supplies
together.

Gail

~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
Sunfish 24186
ISCA Masters Coordinator
USSCA Secretary
USSCA Masters Coordinator
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
"Arts is a bridge to walk across to a new life."
"Be prepared to act on your dreams just in case they do come true."
William Strickland, President and CEO, Manchester Craftsmen's

Guild,

Pittsburgh, PA

-----Original Message-----
From: pibracing [mailto:mcerio02@t...]
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 8:38 AM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Got lucky today


I didnt realize 73 would have the new style ruder and storage
compartment.I checked my number's and what I have is a 1970.I dont
mind not having the storage compartment but the kickup ruder would

be

nice.I really love this boat,its the perfect color and its in

really

good shape and it's the same year I was born.

Mike



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Service.

I didnt realize the old style would kick up.All the original
hardware is there and in mint condition.I have not had a chance to
see how everything works yet.

Thanks
Mike


--- In sunfish_sailor@..., "Wayne Carney" <wcarney@f...>
wrote:

Mike,

If you want to convert to the "new" style rudder you can buy a kit

for

around $350.
see:

The kit plus an inspection/access port and a little Do-it-Yourself

time is

what it takes.


The old style rudder does Kick-up. If all the brass hardware is

there and

adjusted properly it can work just fine. There's a diagram of the

old style

rudder setup in the group FILES area. Look for "Rudder Assembly"

(from old

catalog).


Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: pibracing [mailto:mcerio02@t...]
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 6:38 AM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Got lucky today


I didnt realize 73 would have the new style ruder and storage
compartment.I checked my number's and what I have is a 1970.I

dont

mind not having the storage compartment but the kickup ruder

would be

nice.I really love this boat,its the perfect color and its in

really

good shape and it's the same year I was born.

Mike

Well, you could by the kit and new rudder set up and change it over. It's
not as cheap as it used to be, though.

Check to make sure the screw into the bottom of the hull is truly sound. If
it really wasn't sailed at all then it's probably OK. Those older boats got
the water inside of them because the wood got wet, rotted, and then leaked.
That whole setup is best replaced by the modern rudder rig if you can afford
it.

No matter what, enjoy! Just make sure you drain the hull every time you
sail it and you'll be fine.

The first 'Fish I owned was an oldie that I changed over. I've changed 2
others ... It's a 1/2 day job once you have the parts and supplies
together.

Gail

~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
Sunfish 24186
ISCA Masters Coordinator
USSCA Secretary
USSCA Masters Coordinator
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
"Arts is a bridge to walk across to a new life."
"Be prepared to act on your dreams just in case they do come true."
William Strickland, President and CEO, Manchester Craftsmen's Guild,
Pittsburgh, PA

Answers within, below ...

Gail
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~

HI all,

How does one get off this list? thanks
Ron

--- Wayne Carney <wcarney@...> wrote:

Mike,

If you want to convert to the "new" style rudder you
can buy a kit for
around $350.
see:


The kit plus an inspection/access port and a little
Do-it-Yourself time is
what it takes.


The old style rudder does Kick-up. If all the brass
hardware is there and
adjusted properly it can work just fine. There's a
diagram of the old style
rudder setup in the group FILES area. Look for
"Rudder Assembly" (from old
catalog).


Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: pibracing [mailto:mcerio02@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 6:38 AM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Got lucky today


I didnt realize 73 would have the new style ruder

and storage

compartment.I checked my number's and what I have

is a 1970.I dont

mind not having the storage compartment but the

kickup ruder would be

nice.I really love this boat,its the perfect color

and its in really

good shape and it's the same year I was born.

Mike

=====
Ron Elfenbein, MD

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

Mike,

If you want to convert to the "new" style rudder you can buy a kit for
around $350.
see:

The kit plus an inspection/access port and a little Do-it-Yourself time is
what it takes.


The old style rudder does Kick-up. If all the brass hardware is there and
adjusted properly it can work just fine. There's a diagram of the old style
rudder setup in the group FILES area. Look for "Rudder Assembly" (from old
catalog).


Wayne

I didnt realize 73 would have the new style ruder and storage
compartment.I checked my number's and what I have is a 1970.I dont
mind not having the storage compartment but the kickup ruder would be
nice.I really love this boat,its the perfect color and its in really
good shape and it's the same year I was born.

Mike

On Sat, 26 Jun 2004, Gail M. Turluck wrote:

people asked how it got so shiny! Consider buffing and tefloning before you
consider paint.

Can you tell us more about tefloning?

Or, if you're not racing, a little Ajax or Bar Keeper's Friend will
remove the worst of the dark splotches, followed by your favorite
bathtub shower cleaner

Why "if not racing"?


Thanks,

Charles Neuman

They're getting to be RARE finds. Congratulations! New enough it has the
modern rudder! Probably the storage cuddy too ...

Gail

~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
Sunfish 24186
ISCA Masters Coordinator
USSCA Secretary
USSCA Masters Coordinator
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
"Arts is a bridge to walk across to a new life."
"Be prepared to act on your dreams just in case they do come true."
William Strickland, President and CEO, Manchester Craftsmen's Guild,
Pittsburgh, PA

Before you paint, make sure you want to have to maintain a painted finish.
In addition to the added weight of the paint you are adding, be aware that
it scratches. I have had a number of Sunfish. One we completely removed
the paint from a deck and then buffed the deck. It was so close to new that
people asked how it got so shiny! Consider buffing and tefloning before you
consider paint. All the work you have to do to prep for paint could just as
well be used with a buffing wheel and compound, restoring a shiny finish to
the gel ... Or, if you're not racing, a little Ajax or Bar Keeper's Friend
will remove the worst of the dark splotches, followed by your favorite
bathtub shower cleaner, and the white will be REALLY white and plenty easy
to maintain with routine cleaning. Those bathtub spray on shower cleaners
do an amazing job of getting all sorts of crud off a hull ... Just rinse
really thoroughly ... and don't let it sit real long.

I've known too many people who spent weeks doing a paint job, had one bad
landing, scratched the finish and were never seen again. Sunfish launch and
retrieval is not always well padded and protected ...

I have 2 more hulls on which I want to remove paint ... It was applied by
other people, is scratched up, and would do just as well without it!

Just in case you're not reading between the lines, I don't really recommend
a complete paint job. If you have a repair you want to hide, I recommend a
coat of spray paint over the repair and GO SAILING! When that gets muffed,
touch it up with a couple spritzes ... Good luck.

Sincerely,

Gail
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
Sunfish 24186
ISCA Masters Coordinator
USSCA Secretary
USSCA Masters Coordinator
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~

I was eating lunch and my wife brought the pennysaver in from the
mailbox and i spotted a 73 Sunfish for 500.00 garage kept its entire
life.I was the first one to call and have it home one hr later for
400.00.This boat is in awesome condition and the sail is still crisp
and its got the red deck like I wanted.

Mike

I am thinking of painting the bottom of my new to me 77 Sunfish.I was
wondering what paint systems others have had good luck with.

Thanks
Mike

Hi Ned,

I may never sail again my big boat.

Many big boat skippers race dinghies to hone their skills since the results
of trim changes are almost instantaneous with small boats.

What were ALexander and CORTland thinking when they installed that
damn knee-banging hook!?

Oh..., In 1952 they probably were wishing the cam cleat and ratchet block
had been invented.
Actually the designs were out there, but in those days a set probably cost
as much as a whole Sunfish.

Personally, I use the Harken "Small Hexaratchet" on an eye strap. I have a
Cam cleat mounted where the hook once was. It's in that position so I
don't/can't use it in strong breezes. The swivel base & cam arrangement for
this block has one drawback - in a stiff breeze, when you are hiked out -
you can't uncleat the damn thing.... so over you go into the drink. Racers
who want cleats mount one on either side of the cockpit. If you choose this
arrangement I recommend CAM cleats not JAM cleats. IMHO, JAM cleats for this
application aren't worth the metal they are made from. Check out some of the
photos of boats at racing events on the Sunfish Class Association web site.

my '72 dagger board makes a
sounds like there's a killer whale...

It's an attempt to scare away Personal Watercraft. I wish it was louder.

Seriously, put some strips of carpet in your daggerboard trunk to quiet it
some.

... is the straight, vertical, edge of the daggerboard
intended to be oriented aft as per the drawings I've seen.

Hmmmm..., If your board is symmetrical in cross section it doesn't matter.
The Barrington board was intended for one orientation and was found to work
better in the other. If you have the composite "racing" board, it's a wing
design and the thicker edge leads.


Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: ngatewd [mailto:ngatewd@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 7:12 AM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Thanks for help, and another question


First, I want to thank particularly Gail and Wayne for answers to my
recent question about a newly pruchased Sunfish. Your were very
helpful. Thanks a lot!

I put the Fish in the water for the first time yesterday. What a lot
of fun! I may never sail again my big boat.

I see I need to add a block with cam for better main sheet control.
What were ALexander and CORTlandt thinking when they installed that
damn knee-banging hook!? What, please, is the block of choice among
Sailfish sailors, and a good source for it? And where is a good
source for Sunfish equipment? ALso, my '72 dagger board makes a
sounds like there's a killer whale right under my keel. Can this
vibration be stopped, and is it common? And finally, is the
straight, vertical, edge of the dagger board intended to be oriented
aft as per the drawings I've seen, or is it suppose to be the leading
edge (where it seems to belong)?

Thanks a lot!

Ned

You're welcome, as are all ... I use a large Harken Hexaratchet, they're
available from any marine supply source (West Marine, Boater's World, Team
One Newport, or any Sunfish dealer ...). There are other brands and they
all serve adequately. I'm just a huge Harken fan as they support many
events directly and are a great friend to college sailing. The owners are
the originators of "Vanguard" sailboats ...

There are days that you want that keel under you and a cooler big enough for
a 6 pack, trust me!

You'll want to put an eye strap on the deck, centerline, just above where
the hook is (on the flat deck ... I'm cheap and lazy and have mine in the
holes from the hook, so I still bang my knees, I also like the extra inch of
ratchet wrap I get by having the block lower). There is space just at the
lip of the cockpit where the deck overlaps the cockpit area so through
bolting and backing it up is easy to do. A block of wood or a straight
stainless strap will back it up well enough. Use all stainless and lock
nuts for holding the eyestrap on.

There was one day where I had a ratchet block fail and was actually thankful
that danged hook was there, but I don't think that's reason enough to leave
it installed. I've taken them off all of the Sunfish I've owned ...

Some people will write you lengthy tomes about what they've done to quiet
the daggerboard in the trunk on a breezy day. So long as you have some kind
of retaining strap or line on it and it doesn't disconnect from the boat
when you capsize, it's not worth worrying about. They ALL do it, even the
new "racing" ones. The new ones do it less, but they still hum. It really
doesn't hurt anything. I used it somewhat as an audio speedometer! If
you're going to race, then you'll want to invest in a new daggerboard
anyway.

As to which way to install the board for sailing, when I was using the
"Barrington" style board, I always inserted it long edge forward as did most
sailors I know. Why it is shown reversed I never understood. Some folks
swore by having the long edge back, but it was one of those arguments for
which there was no concrete resolution. With the new racing board (it's
3-1/4" longer), the old ones aren't as competitive. At the same time, for
people just getting started and learning to race, the slight difference is
NOT something to be concerned about first. Learning how to start, how to
read shifts, how to handle the rules, how to handle mark roundings, boat
handling in general, applying weather knowledge, and tactics overall are WAY
more important than having the best equipment. One good tack can overcome
all the equipment problems, one good shift call can result in a huge win!

So, go sailing, enjoy, gain experience, try a regatta just for the fun of it
(and to collect a TON of knowledge), and keep writing.

Sincerely,

Gail

~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
Sunfish 24186
ISCA Masters Coordinator
USSCA Secretary
USSCA Masters Coordinator
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~