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Gelcoat Restoration
ngatewd
Can anyone advise the best product to restoring oxidized gelcoat on a
'73 Fish? Waxing produces a great shine, but it lasts only a short time. The rubbing compound I have,and have attempted to used on other boats, is too abrasive. Has anyone had long term success with Penatrol (sp?) Thanks a lot. Ned |
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Anyone in northern VT. to sail with? Also, replacing sail question
Hi there,
My name is Larry. I just got a new (to me)sunfish. I think it's from somewhere around '76-'79. It had sat for a long time, had some cracks and water infiltration. Finally finishing up the repairs to the hull and looking forward to exploring all the lakes up here. I grew up with a sunfish as well as my dad's hobie 14' and catalina 22'. It's been about 20 years. Looking for other sunfishers up here. The sail is old and worn, very faded lots of patches and a few more that I have to make. I see that there are many options for replacing a sail from generic sails as low as $150 to official sails at around $260.00 racing sails around $375. Not sure if I will ever race or not. I use to race when I was much younger. Is the increased performance worth the extra money? What are the benefits of the racing sail. Hoping to get out on the lake this weekend. Thanks Larry |
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Introduction of sorts :D
sara_laughs2003
Hi there!
My name is Sara - I'm a 28 year old SE Pennsylvanian with a husband and four kids (2 boys, 2 girls ranging 2-10 years). My parents bought a weekend/vacation house three years ago in a resort area that has two beautiful lakes located in the valley of the Pocono Mountains. I started looking for a Sunfish from the moment I first saw the area. We bought a 1969 wooden fish from a man in New Jersey in early May who had stripped the paint from the boat the previous autumn. So far I have it sanded down and I'm gathering information on sealing and painting it. I am only able to get up to the house where the boat is stored once or twice a month, so it has been very slow going so far. My first sailing experience was as a pre-teen in the Chesapeake Bay. Summer camp is wonderful, isn't it? I can't wait to teach my children to sail. I've been poking around all morning (since I joined the group), reading posts and wondering if I really will remember how to do this... LOL! I know I remember how to capsize! Looking forward to getting to know you all! ~ Sara (laughs) |
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Re: Question
Gail M. Turluck
Go back through the history of postings on the yahoo home page for this list
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and you'll find lots of learning about water inside hulls. Gail ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail M. Turluck ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ "Arts is a bridge to walk across to a new life." "Be prepared to act on your dreams just in case they do come true." William Strickland, President and CEO, Manchester Craftsmen's Guild, Pittsburgh, PA -----Original Message-----
From: David Greene [mailto:dlgingalus@...] Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 1:39 AM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: RE: [sunfish_sailor] Question Thanks very much for the info. The Daggerboard does go through the hull. I am trying to imagine how you would paint the inside of this cavity. What would you use to apply it? Would you also coat the inside of the mast hole? Since my boat lacks inspection ports is the only official hole in the hull the drain plug? I guess I would tape a vacuum hose blowing air to the drain hole and apply the soapy water? Is the water in the hull a considered long term problem if it is drained each time after sailing? Thanks! David Seattle, WA Nolan Habegger <nhabegger@...> wrote: David, There are a number of places water can get in on a Sunfish. I'm not familiar with the MiniFish, so I'll give you a run-down of the suspects on the boat I have. 1. The rudder gudgeon (especially the lower bracket). If you "drag" your hull for any reason (i.e., you are a big guy like me) and water comes over the stern, you can get leaks in through the top bracket. The bottom bracket is an obvious (but sneaky) culprit that sometimes is overlooked. 2. The rail. If you heel over and allow the rail to contact the water consistently, you may have some hairline cracks that are allowing water into the hull. This is usually seepage, which might explain the minimal amount of water you had. 3. The daggerboard trunk. If the Mini has a "through hull" cavity for the daggerboard, cracks can easily develop in there without being noticed. I repaired my leaks in this location with several thin layers of MarineTex applied over time. I can give you more pointers on this later if you need them. 4. The mast step hole. If water comes over the bow and fills up the step, a hole will allow the water to seep into the hull as well. I highly recommend you do a pressure test on your hull. This involves pushing air into the hull using a vacuum cleaner or other similar appliance. While creating a positive pressure inside the hull, you go around and "paint" every conceivable spot where a leak might occur with a dish detergent and water mixture. If you have a leak, you will see the detergent "bubbling" over the gap or hole. Once you've identified and marked all your holes, you have a better idea of what your next steps are. Hope this helps. fair winds and following seas, Nolan Habegger The Woodlands, TX _____ From: David Greene [mailto:dlgingalus@...] Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 11:24 AM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Question I just got a 1977 minfish that had been sitting in someone's back yard for a few years. I cleaned it up, refinished the dagger board and tiller and patched a few small gelcoat dings. I took it out yesterday for two hours in fairly choppy water (a number of waves over the bow into the cockpit) and when I pulled it out there was water inside the hull. I pulled the drain plug and guess in had maybe a quart of water inside (did not measure it). Overall the gelcoat seems sound. It that typical? Where would it be getting in? By the mast? Thanks. DLG --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish. If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT < oups/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1089774199/A=2196952/R=2/id=noscript/SIG=1304ck1na/ * 0002_0015_0178_0002> < :HM/A=2196952/rand=946301999> _____ Yahoo! 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Re: Installing Ports
Wayne Carney
Hi treyboy2005,
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Is 160lb overweight for your boat? Do you get water inside the hull whenever you sail? Not knowing the innards of a Windflite I can only guess that any flat surface on the deck will accommodate an inspection port. Choose a location that will also allow you to reach some of your boat's features such as the mast step and/or daggerboard trunk - just in case you need to make a repair. Looking at the photos of a Windflite in the group PHOTOS area, my choice would be to install two smaller ports ahead of the splash guard, one on either side of center.... maybe half way between centerline and the rail. Wayne -----Original Message----- |
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Re: gooseneck position
Wayne Carney
Hi Mike,
1. What is the proper location of the gooseneck and halyard on eachThe basic setup is outlined in the rigging manual. A copy for the older boats can be found in the FILES area of this group: The rigging for newer boats (though not really different) can be found at Vanguard's web site under Rigging: The lower spar, or boom position can be adjusted for different sailing conditions. This requires the installation of an adjustable gooseneck bolt. These can be found anywhere Sunfish parts are sold (Geeesh, that sounds like a late-night TV ad - sorry 'bout that). The Sunfish Bible also provides tips on rigging and fine tuning the adjustable gooseneck for different conditions. see: 2. If I was to use a sunfish rig on a laser, should I adjust theProbably..., sounds logical to me. Let us know what you find out with your Hybrid experiment. Wayne -----Original Message----- |
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Re: Question
Wayne Carney
Hi David,
Paint, even epoxy paint, is a short term fix for leaks, They will return over and over if all you do is paint. To fix a leak properly you need to positively find it then fix it by tried and true methods. Loose fittings like a gudgeon get removed and re-calked. In worst cases the holes get filled with fiberglass or epoxy and are then re-drilled. Cracks in the deck-to-hull seam, daggerboard trunk, mast step, or anywhere else get repaired by the standard methods. Cracks are opened up to remove all damaged and/or delaminated fiberglass then they are filled or patched depending on the resulting size of the damaged area. Since my boat lacks inspection ports...Sounds like it's going to have one soon. If you are unfamiliar with fiberglass repair I would advise you study up a little either from articles on the Net or a good reference book. The first step, as Nolan pointed out, is to identify the leaks. However, DO NOT just attach a vacuum cleaner or compressed air hose directly to the drain hole. You'll blow the boat's seams apart - then you'll really have a leak to fix. Here are a couple of links to instructions that outline the proper way to leak test your hull: Repair Guide area at (believe it or not) this group - Sunfish_Sailor Wind Line Sails' Leak Find & Fix Since my boat lacks inspection ports is theNo, somewhere high above the waterline is a tiny 3/32" vent hole that allows the inner hull to stay in balance with the outside air pressure as it's heated by the sun and cooled by the water. On full size fish this hole is located at the front of the cockpit just below the deck lip. Is the water in the hull a considered long term problem if it isDraining the hull after each sail is a standard practice everyone should do. This gets the majority of water out, but there's still that residual moisture. Over time the high humidity inside the hull will be absorbed by the foam floatation blocks. After a few years you will find the hull is gaining weight. To avoid this it's best to install at least one small inspection port that gets opened to allow better air circulation when the boat is stored between sailing. Good Luck, Wayne -----Original Message----- |
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Re: Question
David Greene
Thanks very much for the info.
The Daggerboard does go through the hull. I am trying to imagine how you would paint the inside of this cavity. What would you use to apply it? Would you also coat the inside of the mast hole? Since my boat lacks inspection ports is the only official hole in the hull the drain plug? I guess I would tape a vacuum hose blowing air to the drain hole and apply the soapy water? Is the water in the hull a considered long term problem if it is drained each time after sailing? Thanks! David Seattle, WA Nolan Habegger <nhabegger@...> wrote: David, There are a number of places water can get in on a Sunfish. I'm not familiar with the MiniFish, so I'll give you a run-down of the suspects on the boat I have. 1. The rudder gudgeon (especially the lower bracket). If you "drag" your hull for any reason (i.e., you are a big guy like me) and water comes over the stern, you can get leaks in through the top bracket. The bottom bracket is an obvious (but sneaky) culprit that sometimes is overlooked. 2. The rail. If you heel over and allow the rail to contact the water consistently, you may have some hairline cracks that are allowing water into the hull. This is usually seepage, which might explain the minimal amount of water you had. 3. The daggerboard trunk. If the Mini has a "through hull" cavity for the daggerboard, cracks can easily develop in there without being noticed. I repaired my leaks in this location with several thin layers of MarineTex applied over time. I can give you more pointers on this later if you need them. 4. The mast step hole. If water comes over the bow and fills up the step, a hole will allow the water to seep into the hull as well. I highly recommend you do a pressure test on your hull. This involves pushing air into the hull using a vacuum cleaner or other similar appliance. While creating a positive pressure inside the hull, you go around and "paint" every conceivable spot where a leak might occur with a dish detergent and water mixture. If you have a leak, you will see the detergent "bubbling" over the gap or hole. Once you've identified and marked all your holes, you have a better idea of what your next steps are. Hope this helps. fair winds and following seas, Nolan Habegger The Woodlands, TX _____ From: David Greene [mailto:dlgingalus@...] Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 11:24 AM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Question I just got a 1977 minfish that had been sitting in someone's back yard for a few years. I cleaned it up, refinished the dagger board and tiller and patched a few small gelcoat dings. I took it out yesterday for two hours in fairly choppy water (a number of waves over the bow into the cockpit) and when I pulled it out there was water inside the hull. I pulled the drain plug and guess in had maybe a quart of water inside (did not measure it). Overall the gelcoat seems sound. It that typical? Where would it be getting in? By the mast? Thanks. DLG --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish. If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT < oups/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1089774199/A=2196952/R=2/id=noscript/SIG=1304ck1na/ * 0002_0015_0178_0002> < :HM/A=2196952/rand=946301999> _____ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... <mailto:sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <> . If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT var lrec_target="_top";var lrec_URL = new Array();lrec_URL[1] = " ";var link="javascript:LRECopenWindow(1)";var lrec_flashfile = ''+link+'';var lrec_altURL = " ";var lrec_altimg = ";var lrec_width = 300;var lrec_height = 250; --------------------------------- Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! |
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Re: Question
Nolan Habegger
David,
There are a number of places water can get in on a Sunfish. I'm not familiar with the MiniFish, so I'll give you a run-down of the suspects on the boat I have. 1. The rudder gudgeon (especially the lower bracket). If you "drag" your hull for any reason (i.e., you are a big guy like me) and water comes over the stern, you can get leaks in through the top bracket. The bottom bracket is an obvious (but sneaky) culprit that sometimes is overlooked. 2. The rail. If you heel over and allow the rail to contact the water consistently, you may have some hairline cracks that are allowing water into the hull. This is usually seepage, which might explain the minimal amount of water you had. 3. The daggerboard trunk. If the Mini has a "through hull" cavity for the daggerboard, cracks can easily develop in there without being noticed. I repaired my leaks in this location with several thin layers of MarineTex applied over time. I can give you more pointers on this later if you need them. 4. The mast step hole. If water comes over the bow and fills up the step, a hole will allow the water to seep into the hull as well. I highly recommend you do a pressure test on your hull. This involves pushing air into the hull using a vacuum cleaner or other similar appliance. While creating a positive pressure inside the hull, you go around and "paint" every conceivable spot where a leak might occur with a dish detergent and water mixture. If you have a leak, you will see the detergent "bubbling" over the gap or hole. Once you've identified and marked all your holes, you have a better idea of what your next steps are. Hope this helps. fair winds and following seas, Nolan Habegger The Woodlands, TX _____ From: David Greene [mailto:dlgingalus@...] Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 11:24 AM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Question I just got a 1977 minfish that had been sitting in someone's back yard for a few years. I cleaned it up, refinished the dagger board and tiller and patched a few small gelcoat dings. I took it out yesterday for two hours in fairly choppy water (a number of waves over the bow into the cockpit) and when I pulled it out there was water inside the hull. I pulled the drain plug and guess in had maybe a quart of water inside (did not measure it). Overall the gelcoat seems sound. It that typical? Where would it be getting in? By the mast? Thanks. DLG --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish. If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT < oups/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1089774199/A=2196952/R=2/id=noscript/SIG=1304ck1na/ * 0002_0015_0178_0002> < :HM/A=2196952/rand=946301999> _____ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... <mailto:sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <> . |
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Installing Ports
treyboy2005
I have a windflite 14 that weights 160 lbs. I would like to install
inspection ports to allow me to make inner hull inspection and to dry the hull out. I have seen diagrams of ports installed between the daggerboard slot and splashrail. On this boat, the distance from the daggerboard slot to splashrail moulding is 4.75", not enough space for a 4" port. Where is the best locations on the hull to install ports and how many should be installed to permit maximum access. Thanks for any help or advice. |
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gooseneck position
mrobersom
Hello Group,
I was wondering 3 things and hoping for some help. 1. What is the proper location of the gooseneck and halyard on each of the booms? (do you ever change the location based on conditions) 2. If I was to use a sunfish rig on a laser, should I adjust the location of the gooseneck and halyard to compensate for the mast step being further aft? 3. Does anyone have an old sunfish rig for sale? Thank you for any and all help. I sail both a laser and a minifish in Michigan. I am just looking for more versitility with the laser. Thanks again, Mike |
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Question
David Greene
I just got a 1977 minfish that had been sitting in someone's back yard for a few years. I cleaned it up, refinished the dagger board and tiller and patched a few small gelcoat dings. I took it out yesterday for two hours in fairly choppy water (a number of waves over the bow into the cockpit) and when I pulled it out there was water inside the hull. I pulled the drain plug and guess in had maybe a quart of water inside (did not measure it).
Overall the gelcoat seems sound. It that typical? Where would it be getting in? By the mast? Thanks. DLG --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish. |
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plywood sunfish for sale
Hello,
I own a plywood sunfish which I am told dates back to the late 50's or early 60's. The boat has its original hardware and is in need of restoration, although to what extent I am not sure. It was last sailed two years ago. I am considering selling the boat or trading for an up-to-date boat. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage! |
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Re: tacking
Gail M. Turluck
If it's that choppy, just wait for a smoother area and a steady wind spot
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and then TACK HARD! Go too far, accelerate and then worry about getting back up to closer to the wind. If it's that choppy, re-accelerating is harder work and more important than perfect roll tacking and all the rest. The roll won't be getting you enough speed to be that worried about it. Sincerely, Gail ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ Gail M. Turluck Sunfish 24186 ISCA Masters Coordinator USSCA Secretary USSCA Masters Coordinator ~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~ "Arts is a bridge to walk across to a new life." "Be prepared to act on your dreams just in case they do come true." William Strickland, President and CEO, Manchester Craftsmen's Guild, Pittsburgh, PA -----Original Message-----
From: Charles Neuman [mailto:charles@...] Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 10:37 PM To: sunfish_sailor@... Subject: RE: [sunfish_sailor] tacking On Mon, 5 Jul 2004, Wayne Carney wrote: True the mast sets up some turbulence on Port Tack. I don't think this isHi Wayne, You're right. Today was a light breeze and not much chop in the water. I didn't notice any difference tacking one way or the other. So the problem I had before can be summarized by the question: How do you tack into waves? I think you're supposed to tack when you're at the crest of a wave. In my case, the waves weren't so defined. Mostly just choppy water. So those are tough conditions. Those are the only times I wish I had a longer and heavier boat. Charles If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- Yahoo! Groups Links a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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Re: tacking
Wayne Carney
Hi Charles,
Hmmm... those different water conditions can drive you nuts. I learned to sail on Lake Michigan and it can sure get choppy at times. Big harbors or Bays with hard seawalls are the worst. Reflection waves coming from all angles. How do you tack into waves?Well, the simplistic answer is, "cautiously". 8^) Seriously, it's a bit different with each combination of wind and waves. That's because the changes in wind speed and wave timing effect when you want to start your tack. It also depends on how you are attacking the waves. I think it's easiest to say what you don't want to happen - that is - you don't want the wave or even a rolling swell to broadside you while you are changing tacks. Wayne Hi Wayne, |
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Re: tacking
On Mon, 5 Jul 2004, Wayne Carney wrote:
True the mast sets up some turbulence on Port Tack. I don't think this isHi Wayne, You're right. Today was a light breeze and not much chop in the water. I didn't notice any difference tacking one way or the other. So the problem I had before can be summarized by the question: How do you tack into waves? I think you're supposed to tack when you're at the crest of a wave. In my case, the waves weren't so defined. Mostly just choppy water. So those are tough conditions. Those are the only times I wish I had a longer and heavier boat. Charles |
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Re: manufacturing dates
Wayne Carney
Hi John,
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For boats that are wider or sit higher than the Sunfish a web strap attached where you can get at it when in the water can be useful. One simple loop that hangs down in the water a couple of feet can make a nice step up. Wayne -----Original Message----- |
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Re: manufacturing dates
john sher
I'm glad that you rated the 420 as the hardest to recover of the 3. That's what we used yesterday. Recovering the boat after an intentional capsize went pretty well. My instructor wanted us both dumped in the lake, I swam around to the centerboard, reached up, pulled down (fortunately it had a mast float,) and it popped back up w/ the instructor aboard. The hard part for me though, was getting back into the boat. Not only was I on the windward side (now she tells me!) but my life jackets' buckles kept catching on the gunwale so that I couldn't reach anything to pull myself up with. The instructor pulled the hiking strap up to my grasp and it took just about everything I had just to pull myself up into the boat. I don't know what I would have done if I had been out alone (shouldn't swim ladders be an option?) I sure hope that since the laser sits lower, its easier to get back into. I'll find out next week. I only wish they had a sunfish for comparison.
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Wayne Carney <wcarney@...> wrote: Hi John, I don't know about Lasers. You might try some of the Laser web sites, ie: They have always struck me a well built, but I'm sure there have been variations if you investigate a little. You can learn on any boat. The basics of sailing are universal. The nuances of different boats are picked up quickly as you go from one to the other. I have to say, if you want a simple boat to haul, setup, launch, and sail the Sunfish beats them all hands down. From my experience with a multitude of small boats... ranking the ease of recovery (including re-boarding) from your pick of three: #1 Sunfish, #2 Laser, #3 the 420. Again, learn on one and you can sail any of them. Wayne -----Original Message----- If you do not wish to belong to Sunfish_sailor, you may unsubscribe by sending an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Please do not send unsubscribe requests directly to the group. USEFUL ADDRESSES Post message: sunfish_sailor@... Subscribe: sunfish_sailor-subscribe@... Unsubscribe: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... URL to egroups page: Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT var lrec_target="_top";var lrec_URL = new Array();lrec_URL[1] = " ";var link="javascript:LRECopenWindow(1)";var lrec_flashfile = ''+link+'';var lrec_altURL = " ";var lrec_altimg = ";var lrec_width = 300;var lrec_height = 250; --------------------------------- Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: sunfish_sailor-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail is new and improved - Check it out! |
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