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-----Original Message-----
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] A couple concerns about repairs.

I now have 3 long and deep grooves in the gelcoat on the ridge that
runs the length of the hull, and a couple "chips" (could just be
gelcoat, as the fiber is visible but doesn't appear compromised)
around the daggerboard hole.

.... What are some indicators that repair is necessary for quality
purposes rather than aesthetics?

Since you say the grooves are deep and you have glass cloth exposed I'd say
you should repair the damage. Eventually water will get into the cloth and
promote delamination, so fixing the exposed areas is crucial.

You can gelcoat the damaged area or use one of the epoxy "system" repair
kits that's available. You might be able to get away with using fairing
compound where only the gelcoat is grooved. Whatever you do, the chips where
glass is exposed should be repaired with a polyester resin / milled glass
fiber mix or marine epoxy. Marine epoxy is less dense and less brittle than
fiberglass resin, it's preferred by nearly all the boat builders and repair
shops I know, but it's also more expensive. The choice is yours. Once the
chips are filled you can dremel out an overlapping 1/32" deep dimple over
the repair area and fill it with colored gelcoat or epoxy to match the hull
if looks are important.

The daggerboard trunk of a Sunfish is notorious for developing leaks. This
is probably due to grounding the daggerboard and stressing the trunk
sleeve/hull interface. If you have chips broken out in this area I recommend
fixing them immediately. I have scraped out the seam of every "fish" I've
owned and back-filled and smoothed it. The factory seam leaves a step that
is susceptible to edge chipping and subsequent water invasion. I build up a
taper that eliminates the right angle step.

Another thing you might consider once your repairs are complete is to line
the leading and trailing edge of the trunk with indoor/outdoor carpet. I use
strips of rubber (not foam rubber) fused carpet type door mat attached with
contact cement. This cushions the trunk from occasional thumps that ding
both the board and trunk and, if you get the thickness just right, gives the
daggreboard just enough friction to stay where you put it when you adjust it
for running before the wind or beaching. I mark my board so I know just
where it is too.

A word of caution. If you own one of the over priced (but not over rated)
"racing" daggerboards, don't make the trunk lining too snug. There has been
a case of someone pushing down on the board with their hand curled in the
"handle" [where else would you put it]. When the board dropped into place
the momentum sheered off the cheesy, hollow, cheap ass stops and the
sailor's hand was injured.

[stepping down off the soap box]

Also, one of the masts has what sounds like about a cup of water in
it. How do I get that out and keep it out?

Mast and spars have end caps which can be removed. The caps are held on with
roll pins or pop-rivets depending on model year and previous disassembly.
Either way the caps can be removed so the water can be drained. If you are
unfamiliar with these methods of attachment contact me and I can walk you
through removal.

I have sealed the mast and spars on all the Sun and Sailfish I have owned.


Wayne

--- In sunfish_sailor "Malcolm Dickinson" wrote:

-----Original Message-----

Tackle Shack, located in Pinellas Park, Fl now has the Sunfish
Bible in stock.

-----Original Message-----
From: Sunfish Sailboat Racing - East & Gulf Coasts
[mailto:SUNFISH@...]

-----------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 09:51:56 -0400
From: Mindy Strauley <mskatz@...>
Subject: Sunfish Bible now in stock


Tackle Shack, located in Pinellas Park, Fl now has the Sunfish Bible in =
stock.

Call 1-800-537-6099 and ask for Andy or Paul if interested.


Thanks
Mindy

--

-----Original Message-----
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] PVC Pipe and Sail Wear?

I'm thinking of installing two PVC pipes, one in each of the upper
corners of the trailer rack (underneath the tubes the top boat rests
on) - one pipe for each sail/mast combination. In my mind, a threaded
cap on the aft end will make stowing and retrieval much less of a
frustration.

My only worry is that the repetitive friction of sail against PVC . . .

In my experience the PVC pipe idea works great. I transported a Hobie Cat
mast and sails in a 12" pipe for several years. The sail was in a bag, but
the sail bag was stuffed into the tube along with the mast and traveled just
fine. The worst consequence I can think of is that the aluminum spars may
rub some black marks onto the sail.

If you are worried about hardware snagging the sail you might consider
placing the spars and mast into a bag first. I made a bag for my Sunfish
mast/spars out of inexpensive (un-coated) ripstop by sewing a basic bag and
then running a stitch up the middle. The sail wrapped spars go in one pocket
and the mast in the other. The bag makes it easier to carry the mast and
spars down to the water's edge also.

Remember to put a small vent hole in the bottom of your pipe or cap. If you
are like me you will get a line wet just before you pack up. The
condensation inside the tube will promote mildew on your sail and lines.
You'll need the world's largest bottle brush to clean the tubes if you get
mold growing in there. You might consider a screw cap at both ends. I
recommend tethering your screw-on caps to the tube too.

It just struck me that you will also have the world's largest double
barreled potato cannon [ maybe that would be a watermelon cannon ]. Anyway,
you would sure have a tool for clearing out the PWC's before you launch.
8^)

ALSO, any problems/liabilities to storing and transporting boats topside

down?

Actually, the racing crowd recommends transporting this way. The bottom of
the boat is subject to fatigue. When the bottom goes "soft" the boat is not
considered competitive any longer for world class competition. As for the
rest of us. . . . it has been my observation that most small boat trailers
are designed for motor boats. They use rollers and/or pedestals to support
the hull. The problem with this arrangement is that the hull of a motorboat
is considerably thicker than that of small sailboats. These supports focus
the force of road bumps on small areas of the hull causing fatigue spots,
dimples and possibly breakage. To get the maximum life out of your hull for
racing OR recreation the inverted method is by far the superior choice.

Another hull friendly method is the full-length bunk method. I use this
arrangement because I often sail solo and it can be easily loaded single
handed. My layout consists of carpeted and padded 2" X 4" bunks that cover a
sizeable portion of the hull supporting the bulk of the weight at the chine.
I have two more center bunks that just provide minimal support at the
center - they are about 2" apart and run nearly the length of the hull. The
center bunks also act as support at the bow creating a three point system.

I have heard of another system where the boat is suspended in a couple of
slings or a hammock arrangement. I have not seen nor have I heard how
successful this method is.

I will post photos of my bunk arrangement if anyone is interested.

You can find some examples of other trailering arrangements and ideas at the
following web site:




In case you haven't found it yet, there is a class association for Sunfish.
The web site is full of good information on all sorts of stuff. Here's the
address just in case you are interested:




Also, here's the address of the East Coast Sunfish group email "list
server". Some of the world's best Sunfish sailors are members of this email
list. They don't limit their advice to just racing though, so you can get
some good answers to your questions here as well.




Lastly, are you aware that there is a Sunfish group in Texas? Murphy's Law
says it's gonna be across the state from where ever you are, but here's
their web address as well.



Good Sailing,

Wayne Carney
CO

-----Original Message-----
From: JOESSOUP@... [mailto:JOESSOUP@...]
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 8:59 PM
To: malcolm
Subject: Sunfish


Hi Malcolm I have an old sunfish that needs some work, the dager board and
tiller are missing. I am ready to GIVE this to whom ever needs or wants it
and can pick it up. It would make a great summer project for some lad. I
trust that you would know were to send this offer.
I live in Mahopac NY

Thank you for your time. Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: alcan_dan
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 9:46 AM
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Roof Rack


Hi Group

Here's a rugged yet simple roof rack I'd like to share.

I had been looking for a versitile roof rack for some time now. The
racks I found most often are the Yakima and Thule brands. These look
like fine racks and both have lots of really trick features and
accessories but that all comes at a price. What I really wanted was
rack that was a bit more in line with my modest budget.

What I have found is something called "Quik-N-Easy Brackets". These
brackets are the upright portion of a roof rack and you use them to
create your own custom rack. Quick-N-Easy offers a crossbar for the
uprights, but I'm told most people use 2x4's or a piece of plywood to
create their own design.

I put a photo (from an ad) in the file section of this group named
QnE.jpg for anyone who would like to see the rack.

I purchased a set of 4 uprights for about $60 (28.95/pr), added 2x4
crossbars for another $10 and some indoor/outdoor carpet scraps for
padding. The uprights I bought fit rain gutters and I'm not sure if
there is a model for gutterless vehicles.

The rack was easy to assemble. The lumber yard cut the 2x4 to my
measurments and I only needed a crescent wrench to install them using
four 3/8 carriage bolts, lock washers, and anti-vibration nuts.

In my searching I discovered that Quick-N-Easy brackets don't often
appear in catalogs or dealers where the other roof racks do. Where I
found my set was at a Kayak and Raft supplier.

My Sunfish sits solidly on the new rack - just what I was looking for.


Dan
AK




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