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Re: PVC Pipe and Sail Wear?
Wayne Carney
Hello Nolan,
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Welcome. . . . -----Original Message----- I'm thinking of installing two PVC pipes, one in each of the upper My only worry is that the repetitive friction of sail against PVC . . .In my experience the PVC pipe idea works great. I transported a Hobie Cat mast and sails in a 12" pipe for several years. The sail was in a bag, but the sail bag was stuffed into the tube along with the mast and traveled just fine. The worst consequence I can think of is that the aluminum spars may rub some black marks onto the sail. If you are worried about hardware snagging the sail you might consider placing the spars and mast into a bag first. I made a bag for my Sunfish mast/spars out of inexpensive (un-coated) ripstop by sewing a basic bag and then running a stitch up the middle. The sail wrapped spars go in one pocket and the mast in the other. The bag makes it easier to carry the mast and spars down to the water's edge also. Remember to put a small vent hole in the bottom of your pipe or cap. If you are like me you will get a line wet just before you pack up. The condensation inside the tube will promote mildew on your sail and lines. You'll need the world's largest bottle brush to clean the tubes if you get mold growing in there. You might consider a screw cap at both ends. I recommend tethering your screw-on caps to the tube too. It just struck me that you will also have the world's largest double barreled potato cannon [ maybe that would be a watermelon cannon ]. Anyway, you would sure have a tool for clearing out the PWC's before you launch. 8^) ALSO, any problems/liabilities to storing and transporting boats topsidedown? Actually, the racing crowd recommends transporting this way. The bottom of the boat is subject to fatigue. When the bottom goes "soft" the boat is not considered competitive any longer for world class competition. As for the rest of us. . . . it has been my observation that most small boat trailers are designed for motor boats. They use rollers and/or pedestals to support the hull. The problem with this arrangement is that the hull of a motorboat is considerably thicker than that of small sailboats. These supports focus the force of road bumps on small areas of the hull causing fatigue spots, dimples and possibly breakage. To get the maximum life out of your hull for racing OR recreation the inverted method is by far the superior choice. Another hull friendly method is the full-length bunk method. I use this arrangement because I often sail solo and it can be easily loaded single handed. My layout consists of carpeted and padded 2" X 4" bunks that cover a sizeable portion of the hull supporting the bulk of the weight at the chine. I have two more center bunks that just provide minimal support at the center - they are about 2" apart and run nearly the length of the hull. The center bunks also act as support at the bow creating a three point system. I have heard of another system where the boat is suspended in a couple of slings or a hammock arrangement. I have not seen nor have I heard how successful this method is. I will post photos of my bunk arrangement if anyone is interested. You can find some examples of other trailering arrangements and ideas at the following web site: In case you haven't found it yet, there is a class association for Sunfish. The web site is full of good information on all sorts of stuff. Here's the address just in case you are interested: Also, here's the address of the East Coast Sunfish group email "list server". Some of the world's best Sunfish sailors are members of this email list. They don't limit their advice to just racing though, so you can get some good answers to your questions here as well. Lastly, are you aware that there is a Sunfish group in Texas? Murphy's Law says it's gonna be across the state from where ever you are, but here's their web address as well. Good Sailing, Wayne Carney CO |
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