Can anyone tell me the size and threading of the brass screw top plug for the Sunfish bailer? ? Or the aftermarket plastic replacement?I'm trying to temporarily substitute something while waiting for a real to get shipped to me.

I ordered one and it was on backorder too. Eventually it came in about a year aftet. But they do come.

Carey Seven

On Aug 3, 2020, at 12:17 PM, Ralph Walker <ralphhwalker@...> wrote:

?I built a Sunfish clone and sail 1-2 times a weekend and would really like? to add an auto bailer so as to not have to bail anytime I get hit by bigger waves or get hit by wakes from ski boats.

I ordered a "Sunfish, Auto Bailer (13/16 Inch), 91026" back in April from Sunfish Direct, but they are struggling to get any supplies from the manufacturer and I am still waiting. Other sites do not seem to have any stock either.
They said:
"Unfortunately, the bailers and their parts have been on back order since last year, we do have some bailer housings available for purchase but that is it. Previously, the manufacturer (Laser Performance) had given us a delivery date at the end of May. ?However, that has now changed to mid-July"

Does anyone know where I can get one or does anyone on this group have one they are willing to sell me?

On Aug 3, 2020, at 12:17 PM, Ralph Walker <ralphhwalker@...> wrote:

?I built a Sunfish clone and sail 1-2 times a weekend and would really like? to add an auto bailer so as to not have to bail anytime I get hit by bigger waves or get hit by wakes from ski boats.

I ordered a "Sunfish, Auto Bailer (13/16 Inch), 91026" back in April from Sunfish Direct, but they are struggling to get any supplies from the manufacturer and I am still waiting. Other sites do not seem to have any stock either.
They said:
"Unfortunately, the bailers and their parts have been on back order since last year, we do have some bailer housings available for purchase but that is it. Previously, the manufacturer (Laser Performance) had given us a delivery date at the end of May. ?However, that has now changed to mid-July"

Does anyone know where I can get one or does anyone on this group have one they are willing to sell me?

?

I don't know Andy's reasons but for me, the coaming had a small chunk missing from the previous owner dropping the mast on it in transport, and the front side of it had been improperly glassed originally - glass mat very visible - and looked un-finished and looked really ugly that way, so I just unscrewed it. The rivnut bases stay in place when you unscrew the screws - at least, they did on mine. The screws were a little tight from dirt, not so much corrosion, since this was a freshwater boat and the original hardware was stainless. Took some penetrating oil and patience to get some out. Worth it, though. The coaming is an expensive part to replace and to ship. I filled the missing chunk with marine tex and filled in the rough glass front with Bondo filler, sanded then spray painted it with a rattle-can of Rustoleum that was a perfect match to the footwell color. Went back into place with screws and some sealant just to make extra sure, and it looked a hundred times better.

On Monday, July 13, 2020, 8:48:54 AM CDT, Breezebender via groups.io <monicademeo@...> wrote:

?

?

Hi Andy,

Why are you removing the coaming?? I removed mine when I painted the deck and wished I hadn’t!? I was able to reattach it once I ordered the proper rivets, but rivnuts (which I had on my boat) couldn’t be reattached, nor could screws and nuts because the floatation blocks are in the way of the majority of the holes.

?

?

On Jul 9, 2020, at 12:45 PM, turluck <gail@...> wrote:

?

Put inspect port in middle of back deck.? When you pry off the fiberglass circle,? leave as much Styrofoam as you can,? but it's OK to remove brown/ yellow 2-part expanded foam around it.? That is the glue to hold blocks in place.? With the port centered,? you can reach the back for rudder mounting work and the back of the cockpit tub to install hiking strap eyestraps. Since the boat has leaked,? you want to dry it out and replace the rotted backer block.? ?I have not bothered to fiberglass new backers in place,? just used sealant.??

While working,? tape around the cut opening so you don't get fiberglass fibers in your skin,? mount the ring when you're done.? ?Bigger opening to work through ...

?

I think the dotted lines suggest the placement of the closed cell foam blocks that provide both structural rigidity for the hull as well as flotation should the hull become filled with water. I have put inspection ports in the stern of a couple of Sunfish. I found the foam block placement to be a little different on each hull. I had to remove some of the center-line foam block in both cases in order to have access to the transom, where I needed to add a backing block for the rudder gudgeons. The boat will not suffer for the loss of a part of that foam block. I used a key-hole saw to remove a little bit at a time until I could see my work area.?