Re: Leak at traveler - minifish
Joel,
I recommend grinding and glassing the keel, too. Just applying thickened resin is unlikely to survive long.
Here's a page I created when doing similar repairs on a friend's boat: Note the resin-only patch that a previous owner had tried.
I used polyester resin instead of epoxy. I tend to use epoxy only in cases where I think I will need the adhesive characteristics. When grinding and laying up a cloth patch, that's not necessary. I prefer to keep the hull to one family of resin to make future repairs easier.
- George
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On 7/5/20 7:34 AM, Joel Grist wrote: ?Your message has made me realize I made a leap in logic. ?When I pulled the swamped boat onto the sloped sand, water came out the traveler holes. But I didn’t see the source of the leak and assumed.
There’s a place on the right chine I can press through. ?There is a place on the keel that gives to pressing. ?These are the big ones I found on visual/manual inspection and must be repaired before a pressure leak test would do any good, I imagine.
I’m attaching pictures here and hope they come through.
The one on the keel is a terrible picture. My plan on it is thickened epoxy.
On the chine, it’s going to need some fiberglass for sure.
This is a first time epoxy project for me. I was hoping to get some smaller quantities of resin hardener and glass cloth at a big box hardware store. All they had was JB Weld and Loctite products and no glass cloth. I’ll look at Total Boat next but if there are any other ideas on getting smaller quantities I’d be much obliged.
Thank you also to Charlie for your suggestions. I’ll look specifically for your recs for thickened epoxy. But it turns out I have a ways to go before I can even get to a leak test to determine if those traveler holes are even a source.
My many thanks,
-Joel
On Jul 4, 2020, at 10:57 PM, Breezebender via groups.io <monicademeo@...> wrote:
?Are you sure those holes for the traveler go through the Interior hull? ?They shouldn’t. ?Can you send a picture of the damage? ?Where else is it leaking?
On Jul 4, 2020, at 2:54 PM, Signal Charlie <lewis.kent@...> wrote:
?Worth repairing. We would inject thickened epoxy out of a caulk cartridge into a syringe, then use the syringe to slowly fill that hole. Thickened epoxy brands are either TotalBoat THIXO or Pettit FLEXPOXY
--
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog Small Boat Restoration <>
Our book The Sunfish Owners Manual <> _._,_._,_
--
----------------------------------------------------------------------
When I remember bygone days George Dinwiddie
I think how evening follows morn; gdinwiddie@...
So many I loved were not yet dead,
So many I love were not yet born. also see:
'The Middle' by Ogden Nash
----------------------------------------------------------------------
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Re: Leak at traveler - minifish
Joel, a lot of people wish it's as simple as just smoothing on some epoxy... and sometimes it can be. ?But the "better", more thorough and lasting repair takes a bit more work; it's my opinion you should actually cut out/grind out the soft, collapsed areas and fill them back up with several layers of cut glass cloth and epoxy, to build back a solid, structural repair that will last. You might want to look at a few youtube fiberglass sailboat repair videos and see if the repairs they make look like what's wrong on your boat. If the damage is super small some Marine Tex might be all you need. But a large soft spot means there's broken glass fibers in there or fibers that never got enough resin in the original build... or resin/glass that was a bad mix or rotted from a long period of water soaking into it. If you launch and recover off a beach, I'd be concerned about that keel area.
I rebuilt the bow of my boat with polyester resin, glass cloth, and Bondo from the auto parts store. The original hull is polyester, which is why I went that way. Also the hull cost me 20 bucks and so I had no (redacteds) to give in how I repaired it. It was a learning experience and occupational therapy. With a whole heck of a lot of machine and hand-sanding, I learned how to make a finish I'm proud of. Because I was learning as I went, it took the whole first summer to finish it. But learn I did. ?Epoxy is good because you can use it on either polyester or another epoxy, and it won't damage foam, if you're glassing foam. ?But polyester does have one thing going for it: is less expensive and ubiquitous.
When patching the glass, one tip I can pass along to improve the finish is to buy some flexible plastic material made of HDPE... you often see kitchen cutting boards made of this, but I found it also comes in very thin, flexible sheets, available in my local Menards store, sold in the shelving section. ?This stuff is like a shelf liner on metal grid shelving units, it's only a buck or two per large sheet. ?Lay ?a patch of this over the wet repair to smooth the resin as it cures, and it peels right off afterwards, leaving a glassy, even surface. You'll have a much faster and easier time sanding it down afterwards.?
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Re: Old Style Rudder and hardware
Randy,
The sunfish rudder assembly is spoken for.? Thanks for responding.
?
Mike
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
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From: Randy Kramer
Sent: Sunday, July 5, 2020 8:56 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SunfishSailor] Old Style Rudder and hardware
?
I am interested - haven't made a decision yet -- would like to get an idea of
shipping cost.? I live in eastern Pa. (Philadelphia is close enough for
estimating), or if you give me the approximate weight and dimensions, I can
check with UPS or Fedex (I presume they could handle the shipping, (I.e., it
won't be too big or too heavy).
On Sunday, July 05, 2020 08:11:34 AM Michael King wrote:
> I have? an old style (pre 1971) rudder, tiller and all bronze hardware for
> someone doing a restoration project. I made the rudder from mahogany.
>? $60 plus shipping.? Email me by private e-mail for pic if interested.
> Eastern NC.
>
> Mr Mike
>
>
?
|
Re: Old Style Rudder and hardware
I am interested - haven't made a decision yet -- would like to get an idea of
shipping cost. I live in eastern Pa. (Philadelphia is close enough for
estimating), or if you give me the approximate weight and dimensions, I can
check with UPS or Fedex (I presume they could handle the shipping, (I.e., it
won't be too big or too heavy).
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sunday, July 05, 2020 08:11:34 AM Michael King wrote: I have an old style (pre 1971) rudder, tiller and all bronze hardware for
someone doing a restoration project. I made the rudder from mahogany.
$60 plus shipping. Email me by private e-mail for pic if interested.
Eastern NC.
Mr Mike
|
Old Style Rudder and hardware
I have? an old style (pre 1971) rudder, tiller and all bronze hardware for someone doing a restoration project. I made the rudder from mahogany.? ?$60 plus shipping.? Email me by private e-mail for pic if interested.? Eastern NC.
Mr Mike
|
Re: Leak at traveler - minifish
Perfect! ?I’m going near a West in a couple of weeks and didn’t know of Jamestown (it’s cheaper there.
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On Jul 5, 2020, at 7:44 AM, Signal Charlie <lewis.kent@...> wrote:
?This is a good starter kit, West Systems.
If you are not near a Marine Supply house we use . They have a Tech Team hotline, talk to a real person on the phone. They sell their in house brand TotalBoat, which ships free. Also sell West Systems epoxy, Interlux, Pettit, Rustoleum...One stop shopping.
If you decide on a TotalBoat product, create an account and order online, and put LEWISBOATS in the coupon code for a 15% discount on TB products in your order.
--
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
|
Re: Leak at traveler - minifish
Joel,
Lowes Home Improvement used to sell the kits that included the cloth. West Marine also has them but they are quite pricey.? If that doesn’t work I have ?cloth from previous repairs I’ll give you for the postage.
?
We gotta get more of these old neglected boats back on the water.? My repaired 64 leaks a little but the drain plug solves that for now.? I pressure tested last winter and repaired what I thought was the leak but apparently there is another.?
I can deal with draining a cup or so after? a sail for a boat over 50 years old that I found for nothing in a neighborhood back yard.
?
Mr Mike
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
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Show quoted text
From: Joel Grist
Sent: Sunday, July 5, 2020 7:34 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SunfishSailor] Leak at traveler - minifish
?
?Your message has made me realize I made a leap in logic. ?When I pulled the swamped boat onto the sloped sand, water came out the traveler holes. But I didn’t see the source of the leak and assumed. ?
There’s a place on the right chine I can press through. ?There is a place on the keel that gives to pressing. ?These are the big ones I found on visual/manual inspection and must be repaired before a pressure leak test would do any good,
I imagine.
I’m attaching pictures here and hope they come through.?
The one on the keel is a terrible picture. My plan on it is thickened epoxy.?
On the chine, it’s going to need some fiberglass for sure.?
This is a first time epoxy project for me. I was hoping to get some smaller quantities of resin hardener and glass cloth at a big box hardware store. All they had was JB Weld and Loctite products and no glass cloth. I’ll look at Total Boat
next but if there are any other ideas on getting smaller quantities I’d be much obliged.?
Thank you also to Charlie for your suggestions. I’ll look specifically for your recs for thickened epoxy. But it turns out I have a ways to go before I can even get to a leak test to determine if those traveler holes are even a source.?
On Jul 4, 2020, at 10:57 PM, Breezebender via groups.io <monicademeo@...> wrote:
?Are you sure those holes for the traveler go through the Interior hull? ?They shouldn’t. ?Can you send a picture of the damage? ?Where else is it leaking?
On Jul 4, 2020, at 2:54 PM, Signal Charlie <lewis.kent@...> wrote:
?Worth repairing. We would inject thickened epoxy out of a caulk cartridge into a syringe, then use the syringe to slowly fill that hole. Thickened epoxy brands are either TotalBoat THIXO or Pettit FLEXPOXY
--
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
|
Re: Leak at traveler - minifish
This is a good starter kit, West Systems.
If you are not near a Marine Supply house we use . They have a Tech Team hotline, talk to a real person on the phone. They sell their in house brand TotalBoat, which ships free. Also sell West Systems epoxy, Interlux, Pettit, Rustoleum...One stop shopping.
If you decide on a TotalBoat product, create an account and order online, and put LEWISBOATS in the coupon code for a 15% discount on TB products in your order.
--
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
|
Re: Leak at traveler - minifish
? Your message has made me realize I made a leap in logic. ?When I pulled the swamped boat onto the sloped sand, water came out the traveler holes. But I didn’t see the source of the leak and assumed. ?
There’s a place on the right chine I can press through. ?There is a place on the keel that gives to pressing. ?These are the big ones I found on visual/manual inspection and must be repaired before a pressure leak test would do any good, I imagine.
I’m attaching pictures here and hope they come through.? 
The one on the keel is a terrible picture. My plan on it is thickened epoxy.?
On the chine, it’s going to need some fiberglass for sure.?
This is a first time epoxy project for me. I was hoping to get some smaller quantities of resin hardener and glass cloth at a big box hardware store. All they had was JB Weld and Loctite products and no glass cloth. I’ll look at Total Boat next but if there are any other ideas on getting smaller quantities I’d be much obliged.?
Thank you also to Charlie for your suggestions. I’ll look specifically for your recs for thickened epoxy. But it turns out I have a ways to go before I can even get to a leak test to determine if those traveler holes are even a source.?
My many thanks,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 4, 2020, at 10:57 PM, Breezebender via groups.io <monicademeo@...> wrote:
? Are you sure those holes for the traveler go through the Interior hull? ?They shouldn’t. ?Can you send a picture of the damage? ?Where else is it leaking? On Jul 4, 2020, at 2:54 PM, Signal Charlie <lewis.kent@...> wrote:
?Worth repairing. We would inject thickened epoxy out of a caulk cartridge into a syringe, then use the syringe to slowly fill that hole. Thickened epoxy brands are either TotalBoat THIXO or Pettit FLEXPOXY
--
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
|
Re: Leak at traveler - minifish
Are you sure those holes for the traveler go through the Interior hull? ?They shouldn’t. ?Can you send a picture of the damage? ?Where else is it leaking?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 4, 2020, at 2:54 PM, Signal Charlie <lewis.kent@...> wrote:
?Worth repairing. We would inject thickened epoxy out of a caulk cartridge into a syringe, then use the syringe to slowly fill that hole. Thickened epoxy brands are either TotalBoat THIXO or Pettit FLEXPOXY
--
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
|
Re: Loose flotation blocks in Minifish
Nice pics of your MiniFish project. I especially appreciated the picture of the hull identification number. I have not been able to find a HIN on my hull. Before I complete the registration for it, I really wanted to identify the year. Can someone point me in the right direction to determine its year ... Or some history if there was some year when they didn't stamp a HIN on?the boat?
Thanks so much. Kari in MN
My second minifish ('74) was flooded inside due to a hull leak. Shortly after the bow handle pulled off.?The bow handle was apparently backed with a 8" block of wood.? I dried out the hull by cutting inspection ports near the fore and aft. Also reinstalled a new handle backed by plastic cutting board material instead of wood.
I have some pictures of the hull one morning when dew condensed onto it.? You might get an idea of where the support foam is located based on that.?
I'll throw the photos into a share album:?
~Rolan
|
Re: Leak at traveler - minifish
Worth repairing. We would inject thickened epoxy out of a caulk cartridge into a syringe, then use the syringe to slowly fill that hole. Thickened epoxy brands are either TotalBoat THIXO or Pettit FLEXPOXY
--
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
|
Leak at traveler - minifish
Hi folks, a friend let me borrow his old Minifish so I can learn to sail. ?It is very very leaky. ?Two places I know leak badly are where I first drained it - where the traveler rope goes through the edge of the boat. ?It looks like the rope is intended to go through a hole in the curled deck seam. ?But apparently those holes don’t go only through the curled edge but allow water into the hull. ?Is this worth repairing?
this is not the only leak. ?But appears the most difficult to repair, so far.
my friend suggests using Flexseal on all leaks. ?I machine this will ruin any surface. ?I’d like to return the boat in better shape than I borrowed it.
thanks for help and advice.
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Re: Loose flotation blocks in Minifish
Can’t seem to get the link to work.? Might be my marginal computer skills.
?
Mr Mike
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
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Show quoted text
From: Tom Leone
Sent: Saturday, July 4, 2020 7:12 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SunfishSailor] Loose flotation blocks in Minifish
?
Thanks for the pictures.? I can't really tell where the foam blocks are, but I enjoyed seeing your great repairs!
?
My second minifish ('74) was flooded inside due to a hull leak. Shortly after the bow handle pulled off.?The bow handle was apparently backed with
a 8" block of wood.?
I dried out the hull by cutting inspection ports near the fore and aft. Also reinstalled a new handle backed by plastic cutting board material instead of wood.
I have some pictures of the hull one morning when dew condensed onto it.? You might get an idea of where the support foam is located based on that.?
I'll throw the photos into a share album:?
|
Re: Loose flotation blocks in Minifish
Thanks for the pictures.? I can't really tell where the foam blocks are, but I enjoyed seeing your great repairs!
My second minifish ('74) was flooded inside due to a hull leak. Shortly after the bow handle pulled off.?The bow handle was apparently backed with a 8" block of wood.? I dried out the hull by cutting inspection ports near the fore and aft. Also reinstalled a new handle backed by plastic cutting board material instead of wood.
I have some pictures of the hull one morning when dew condensed onto it.? You might get an idea of where the support foam is located based on that.?
I'll throw the photos into a share album:?
~Rolan
|
Re: Loose flotation blocks in Minifish
My second minifish ('74) was flooded inside due to a hull leak. Shortly after the bow handle pulled off.?The bow handle was apparently backed with a 8" block of wood.? I dried out the hull by cutting inspection ports near the fore and aft. Also reinstalled a new handle backed by plastic cutting board material instead of wood.
I have some pictures of the hull one morning when dew condensed onto it.? You might get an idea of where the support foam is located based on that.?
I'll throw the photos into a share album:?
~Rolan
|
Re: Loose flotation blocks in Minifish
My sunfish is wet on the inside and the foam blocks are loose in the rear,? I cut an inspection port and used wooden sticks cut to exactly the right length to wedge the foam blocks back in position.? The sticks stay in there and the foam
stays put.? Mine is a 1964 model and will safe, and functional, it has seen its better days.? It is a lot easier than gluing.
?
Mr Mike
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
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Show quoted text
From: Tom Leone
Sent: Thursday, July 2, 2020 6:29 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SunfishSailor] Loose flotation blocks in Minifish
?
Great tips, thanks!? While checking out the Sunfish Forum I discovered that I'm already signed up but I didn't enable "Watching" so I've been missing all the messages!
?
Yes you can work through a 6 inch port, the key is to do the work and then install the ring, more room to work through. The recommended adhesive is a 2 part marine grade flotation foam, it is a tenacious adhesive and provides flotation
as well. Like Fibreglast 2 lb foam or TotalBoat Flotation Foam. Now don't tell anyone I told you this but if you boat is mostly dry inside then you could use a few cans of Great Stuff. Easy. Fast. Cheap. But don't get it on you, very sticky and almost impossible
to remove. If your boat leaks a lot, well, fix the leaks. And do not let any water collect in the hull, it is not good for any of the foams inside.?
Not sure about where the Mini blocks are, go ask on The Sunfish Forum, a few folks there have put ports on the forward cockpit bulkhead and have peeked inside. You might tap around and find where the good block is on one side and that should
mirror the other side. Last trick we know is leave your boat out on a dewy night and when the sun warms the hull in the morning you might see dew shadows where the hull stays cool, and the other part of the deck dries because it warms faster (no insulating
foam below it).?
Back up, are you sure sure sure it is a loose block? A metal backer plate for deck hardware might have fallen off and be rattling around,?though unlikely. If you tip the boat up, you'll maybe hear it slide back and forth. Does it sound
metally or foamy? Do so carefully as to not damage the rudder gudgeon.?
I'd put a port between the daggerboard trunk and coaming if it fits. We know it does on the Sunfish but there is less real estate on the Mini. Get one of the ports that has a dry bag insert, good spot for keys, wallet.
Take pictures or it didn't happen.?
Now Mark is usually right about everything, but the Mini has the rolled edge vs older style Sunfish deck flange. I have never split one of those and don't know anyone who has. If you're out there, please chime in.?
Now another option is to cut out a hole, do the repair, then epoxy in a little backer ring inside the hull and put the cutout back on with thickened epoxy. Fair the repair area and apply gelcoat to the resulting saw kerf wide ring, that
repair might disappear. There is one gent who does this and he goes in from the bottom of the hull, no one sees that area.
?
I hate the look of inspection ports and would always prefer to split the deck for access. You don't need to go all the way on it.
On Thursday, July 2, 2020, 12:35:40 PM CDT, Tom Leone <tgleone@...> wrote:
I have a 1977 Minifish, and I think the foam floatation blocks have come loose in the forward part of the hull.? I can hear something thumping around when I
tilt the boat back and forth, and the deck seems to flex more when I press it.
This raises a few questions:
(1)? Is it feasible to re-attach the blocks through an inspection port, without peeling apart the hull?? If so, are there instructions available, or at least
a recommended type of adhesive?
(2)? Does anyone know whether the blocks are in the same positions in the Minifish as the Sunfish, as shown in the two links below?
(3)? Where would be a good location to put an inspection port for this job?
--
Kent B. Lewis
(850) 449-4841
?
--
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
|
Re: Loose flotation blocks in Minifish
Great tips, thanks!? While checking out the Sunfish Forum I discovered that I'm already signed up but I didn't enable "Watching" so I've been missing all the messages!
Yes you can work through a 6 inch port, the key is to do the work and then install the ring, more room to work through. The recommended adhesive is a 2 part marine grade flotation foam, it is a tenacious adhesive and provides flotation as well. Like Fibreglast 2 lb foam or TotalBoat Flotation Foam. Now don't tell anyone I told you this but if you boat is mostly dry inside then you could use a few cans of Great Stuff. Easy. Fast. Cheap. But don't get it on you, very sticky and almost impossible to remove. If your boat leaks a lot, well, fix the leaks. And do not let any water collect in the hull, it is not good for any of the foams inside.?
Not sure about where the Mini blocks are, go ask on The Sunfish Forum, a few folks there have put ports on the forward cockpit bulkhead and have peeked inside. You might tap around and find where the good block is on one side and that should mirror the other side. Last trick we know is leave your boat out on a dewy night and when the sun warms the hull in the morning you might see dew shadows where the hull stays cool, and the other part of the deck dries because it warms faster (no insulating foam below it).?
Back up, are you sure sure sure it is a loose block? A metal backer plate for deck hardware might have fallen off and be rattling around,?though unlikely. If you tip the boat up, you'll maybe hear it slide back and forth. Does it sound metally or foamy? Do so carefully as to not damage the rudder gudgeon.?
I'd put a port between the daggerboard trunk and coaming if it fits. We know it does on the Sunfish but there is less real estate on the Mini. Get one of the ports that has a dry bag insert, good spot for keys, wallet.
Take pictures or it didn't happen.?
Now Mark is usually right about everything, but the Mini has the rolled edge vs older style Sunfish deck flange. I have never split one of those and don't know anyone who has. If you're out there, please chime in.?
Now another option is to cut out a hole, do the repair, then epoxy in a little backer ring inside the hull and put the cutout back on with thickened epoxy. Fair the repair area and apply gelcoat to the resulting saw kerf wide ring, that repair might disappear. There is one gent who does this and he goes in from the bottom of the hull, no one sees that area.
I hate the look of inspection ports and would always prefer to split the deck for access. You don't need to go all the way on it.
On Thursday, July 2, 2020, 12:35:40 PM CDT, Tom Leone < tgleone@...> wrote:
I have a 1977 Minifish, and I think the foam floatation blocks have come loose in the forward part of the hull.? I can hear something thumping around when I tilt the boat back and forth, and the deck seems to flex more when I press it.
This raises a few questions:
(1)? Is it feasible to re-attach the blocks through an inspection port, without peeling apart the hull?? If so, are there instructions available, or at least a recommended type of adhesive?
(2)? Does anyone know whether the blocks are in the same positions in the Minifish as the Sunfish, as shown in the two links below?
(3)? Where would be a good location to put an inspection port for this job?
--
Kent B. Lewis
(850) 449-4841
--
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
|
Re: Loose flotation blocks in Minifish
Yes you can work through a 6 inch port, the key is to do the work and then install the ring, more room to work through. The recommended adhesive is a 2 part marine grade flotation foam, it is a tenacious adhesive and provides flotation as well. Like Fibreglast 2 lb foam or TotalBoat Flotation Foam. Now don't tell anyone I told you this but if you boat is mostly dry inside then you could use a few cans of Great Stuff. Easy. Fast. Cheap. But don't get it on you, very sticky and almost impossible to remove. If your boat leaks a lot, well, fix the leaks. And do not let any water collect in the hull, it is not good for any of the foams inside.?
Not sure about where the Mini blocks are, go ask on The Sunfish Forum, a few folks there have put ports on the forward cockpit bulkhead and have peeked inside. You might tap around and find where the good block is on one side and that should mirror the other side. Last trick we know is leave your boat out on a dewy night and when the sun warms the hull in the morning you might see dew shadows where the hull stays cool, and the other part of the deck dries because it warms faster (no insulating foam below it).?
Back up, are you sure sure sure it is a loose block? A metal backer plate for deck hardware might have fallen off and be rattling around,?though unlikely. If you tip the boat up, you'll maybe hear it slide back and forth. Does it sound metally or foamy? Do so carefully as to not damage the rudder gudgeon.?
I'd put a port between the daggerboard trunk and coaming if it fits. We know it does on the Sunfish but there is less real estate on the Mini. Get one of the ports that has a dry bag insert, good spot for keys, wallet.
Take pictures or it didn't happen.?
Now Mark is usually right about everything, but the Mini has the rolled edge vs older style Sunfish deck flange. I have never split one of those and don't know anyone who has. If you're out there, please chime in.?
Now another option is to cut out a hole, do the repair, then epoxy in a little backer ring inside the hull and put the cutout back on with thickened epoxy. Fair the repair area and apply gelcoat to the resulting saw kerf wide ring, that repair might disappear. There is one gent who does this and he goes in from the bottom of the hull, no one sees that area.
I hate the look of inspection ports and would always prefer to split the deck for access. You don't need to go all the way on it.
On Thursday, July 2, 2020, 12:35:40 PM CDT, Tom Leone < tgleone@...> wrote:
I have a 1977 Minifish, and I think the foam floatation blocks have come loose in the forward part of the hull.? I can hear something thumping around when I tilt the boat back and forth, and the deck seems to flex more when I press it.
This raises a few questions:
(1)? Is it feasible to re-attach the blocks through an inspection port, without peeling apart the hull?? If so, are there instructions available, or at least a recommended type of adhesive?
(2)? Does anyone know whether the blocks are in the same positions in the Minifish as the Sunfish, as shown in the two links below?
(3)? Where would be a good location to put an inspection port for this job?
-- Kent B. Lewis
(850) 449-4841
--
Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
|
Re: Loose flotation blocks in Minifish
I hate the look of inspection ports and would always prefer to split the deck for access. You don't need to go all the way on it.
On Thursday, July 2, 2020, 12:35:40 PM CDT, Tom Leone <tgleone@...> wrote:
I have a 1977 Minifish, and I think the foam floatation blocks have come loose in the forward part of the hull.? I can hear something thumping around when I tilt the boat back and forth, and the deck seems to flex more when I press it.
This raises a few questions:
(1)? Is it feasible to re-attach the blocks through an inspection port, without peeling apart the hull?? If so, are there instructions available, or at least a recommended type of adhesive?
(2)? Does anyone know whether the blocks are in the same positions in the Minifish as the Sunfish, as shown in the two links below?
(3)? Where would be a good location to put an inspection port for this job?
|
Signal Charlie
Breezebender
