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Yes you can work through a 6 inch port, the key is to do the work and then install the ring, more room to work through. The recommended adhesive is a 2 part marine grade flotation foam, it is a tenacious adhesive and provides flotation as well. Like Fibreglast 2 lb foam or TotalBoat Flotation Foam. Now don't tell anyone I told you this but if you boat is mostly dry inside then you could use a few cans of Great Stuff. Easy. Fast. Cheap. But don't get it on you, very sticky and almost impossible to remove. If your boat leaks a lot, well, fix the leaks. And do not let any water collect in the hull, it is not good for any of the foams inside.?

Not sure about where the Mini blocks are, go ask on The Sunfish Forum, a few folks there have put ports on the forward cockpit bulkhead and have peeked inside. You might tap around and find where the good block is on one side and that should mirror the other side. Last trick we know is leave your boat out on a dewy night and when the sun warms the hull in the morning you might see dew shadows where the hull stays cool, and the other part of the deck dries because it warms faster (no insulating foam below it).?

Back up, are you sure sure sure it is a loose block? A metal backer plate for deck hardware might have fallen off and be rattling around,?though unlikely. If you tip the boat up, you'll maybe hear it slide back and forth. Does it sound metally or foamy? Do so carefully as to not damage the rudder gudgeon.?

I'd put a port between the daggerboard trunk and coaming if it fits. We know it does on the Sunfish but there is less real estate on the Mini. Get one of the ports that has a dry bag insert, good spot for keys, wallet.

Take pictures or it didn't happen.?

Now Mark is usually right about everything, but the Mini has the rolled edge vs older style Sunfish deck flange. I have never split one of those and don't know anyone who has. If you're out there, please chime in.?

Now another option is to cut out a hole, do the repair, then epoxy in a little backer ring inside the hull and put the cutout back on with thickened epoxy. Fair the repair area and apply gelcoat to the resulting saw kerf wide ring, that repair might disappear. There is one gent who does this and he goes in from the bottom of the hull, no one sees that area.

On Thu, Jul 2, 2020 at 12:46 PM Mark Suszko <mark.suszko@...> wrote:

I hate the look of inspection ports and would always prefer to split the deck for access. You don't need to go all the way on it.

On Thursday, July 2, 2020, 12:35:40 PM CDT, Tom Leone <tgleone@...> wrote:

I have a 1977 Minifish, and I think the foam floatation blocks have come loose in the forward part of the hull.? I can hear something thumping around when I tilt the boat back and forth, and the deck seems to flex more when I press it.

This raises a few questions:

(1)? Is it feasible to re-attach the blocks through an inspection port, without peeling apart the hull?? If so, are there instructions available, or at least a recommended type of adhesive?

(2)? Does anyone know whether the blocks are in the same positions in the Minifish as the Sunfish, as shown in the two links below?

(3)? Where would be a good location to put an inspection port for this job?

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Kent B. Lewis
(850) 449-4841

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