Car topping revisited .... [SunfishSailor] TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY: Hiking Strap Retrofit
Thanks Mike, ? I once hauled a Penguin out to the Chesapeake Bay, from Chicago, for the international championships with a pickup truck. Two carpeted two by fours, held on by C clamps, did the trick. Very easy on the boat. ? Car topping, which was a standard in Sunfish back when I was first racing them in the 60s and 70s, has fallen out of favor. However, it's really easy on the boat, compared to bouncing around on a trailer, even upside down, and if you live anywhere that you have to endure tolls it is quite cost-effective. ? Here's a comprehensive story I wrote, on the subject, for the Sunfish class magazine in 2018: ? Happy days, ? Mark ? 
? 
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Michael King Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 8:21 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [SunfishSailor] TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY: Hiking Strap Retrofit ? Great job storing for transport on that little car.? With a dock in my back yard I am so fortunate.? Can be on the water in 15 minures.? I made a rack for the bed of my pickup when I do transport, but that is not very often. ? Mr Mlke ? Sent from for Windows 10 ? ? 
? Hello sports fans, ? After sharing the photos of my mount for the ratchet block (with the matching I strap underneath the deck for the forward mount of the hiking strap) I was contacted and asked how I mounted the aft end of the strap. Please find photos attached. And I appreciate the compliments regarding the photos. Since my boat is hanging upside down I had to stand on my head to take these :-) — a great way to store and transport your boat. ? Although the hardware is fairly generic if you want a turnkey updates, to make your boat race ready (outhauls, hiking strap, racing board, etc.), one shortcut is to find a qualified dealer that has gone through all this before. I've worked with The Dinghy Shop, on Long Island, and they've been happy to ship out here to flyover country (Wisconsin): . The outfit is run by a father and daughter team. Both of them are highly-competent and longtime competitors in the Sunfish class (and have made many other contributions to the organization as volunteers). So you get a lot of knowledge along with the equipment. ? Go sailing if you feel comfortable doing so! Day sailing alone is certainly safe. With a few minor modifications, being outside, the risks in raising are extremely low and the rewards high. ? Best regards, ? Mark ? PS: Racing rules for our Laser Fleet that we tested out last week: LaX Laser Fleet pandemic rules: Here are the ground rules we are starting with (and we will probably be a little more generous on the starting line and at mark groundings---thinking about maintaining social distancing and not being directly upwind of our favorite competitors). If anyone has constructive ideas to add please let me know:
Here are the ground rules going forward. Based on our experience they might very well be modified for future evenings:
1. Please take your temperature before coming down to the club. You can be contagious with the coronavirus before you show any overt symptoms. So please, before participating, error on the side of caution if you have any vague symptoms or doubts about your health (loss of taste/smell, fever, respiratory symptoms, swollen feet, etc.).
2. Masks are mandatory on and off the water. I have a "neck gator" on order and that might be the best option. If the mask is uncomfortable, and you are well away from anyone, you can take responsibility for taking a brief break-but that runs the risk of forgetting to put it back on so, just like a PFD, it's better to just wear one.
3. Unless the wind is light, and it is warm, we will all wear a PFD, shore to shore.
4. Before and after handling the lock and gate, or helping one of your fellow competitors lift the boat off of their vehicle (appropriately distanced at 14 feet-the length of a Laser?:-)?please wash your hands or use a disinfectant wipe.
5. Soap and water is the most effective prevention so please consider bringing down some soap, in a travel dish. You can use your elbow to turn the water on.
6. We will be rigging at least 20 feet apart. So as we pull our boats out of line, rig, and launch please be aware of the location of other competitors and negotiate the transitions. ?
? ?
|
Re: TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY: Hiking Strap Retrofit
Great job storing for transport on that little car.? With a dock in my back yard I am so fortunate.? Can be on the water in 15 minures.? I made a rack for the bed of my pickup when I do transport, but that is not very often.
?
Mr Mlke
?
Sent from for Windows 10
?
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From: Mark Kastel
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 6:09 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [SunfishSailor] TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY: Hiking Strap Retrofit
?
?
Hello sports fans,
?
After sharing the photos of my mount for the ratchet block (with the matching I strap underneath the deck for the forward mount of the hiking strap) I was contacted
and asked how I mounted the aft end of the strap. Please find photos attached. And I appreciate the compliments regarding the photos. Since my boat is hanging upside down I had to stand on my head to take these :-) — a great way to store and transport your
boat.
?
Although the hardware is fairly generic if you want a turnkey updates, to make your boat race ready (outhauls, hiking strap, racing board, etc.), one shortcut is
to find a qualified dealer that has gone through all this before. I've worked with The Dinghy Shop, on Long Island, and they've been happy to ship out here to flyover country (Wisconsin):
.
The outfit is run by a father and daughter team. Both of them are highly-competent and longtime competitors in the Sunfish class (and have made many other contributions
to the organization as volunteers). So you get a lot of knowledge along with the equipment.
?
Go sailing if you feel comfortable doing so! Day sailing alone is certainly safe. With a few minor modifications, being outside, the risks in raising are extremely
low and the rewards high.
?
Best regards,
?
Mark
?
PS: Racing rules for our Laser Fleet that we tested out last week:
LaX Laser Fleet pandemic rules:
Here are the ground rules we are starting with (and we will probably be a little more generous on
the starting line and at mark groundings---thinking about maintaining social distancing and not being directly upwind of our favorite competitors). If anyone has constructive ideas to add please let me know:
Here are the ground rules going forward. Based on our experience they might very well be modified for future evenings:
1. Please take your temperature before coming down to the club. You can be contagious with the coronavirus before you show any overt symptoms. So please, before participating, error on the side of caution if you have any vague symptoms or doubts about your
health (loss of taste/smell, fever, respiratory symptoms, swollen feet, etc.).
2. Masks are mandatory on and off the water. I have a "neck gator" on order and that might be the best option. If the mask is uncomfortable, and you are well away from anyone, you can take responsibility for taking a brief break-but that runs the risk of forgetting
to put it back on so, just like a PFD, it's better to just wear one.
3. Unless the wind is light, and it is warm, we will all wear a PFD, shore to shore.
4. Before and after handling the lock and gate, or helping one of your fellow competitors lift the boat off of their vehicle (appropriately distanced at 14 feet-the length of a Laser?:-)?please
wash your hands or use a disinfectant wipe.
5. Soap and water is the most effective prevention so please consider bringing down some soap, in a travel dish. You can use your elbow to turn the water on.
6. We will be rigging at least 20 feet apart. So as we pull our boats out of line, rig, and launch please be aware of the location of other competitors and negotiate the transitions.
?
?
?
|
Re: TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY: Hiking Strap Retrofit
Aft end hiking strap pictures?
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On May 23, 2020, at 4:14 PM, Mark Kastel <kastel@...> wrote:
? Hello sports fans, ? After sharing the photos of my mount for the ratchet block (with the matching I strap underneath the deck for the forward mount of the hiking strap) I was contacted and asked how I mounted the aft end of the strap. Please find photos attached. And I appreciate the compliments regarding the photos. Since my boat is hanging upside down I had to stand on my head to take these :-) — a great way to store and transport your boat. ? Although the hardware is fairly generic if you want a turnkey updates, to make your boat race ready (outhauls, hiking strap, racing board, etc.), one shortcut is to find a qualified dealer that has gone through all this before. I've worked with The Dinghy Shop, on Long Island, and they've been happy to ship out here to flyover country (Wisconsin): . The outfit is run by a father and daughter team. Both of them are highly-competent and longtime competitors in the Sunfish class (and have made many other contributions to the organization as volunteers). So you get a lot of knowledge along with the equipment. ? Go sailing if you feel comfortable doing so! Day sailing alone is certainly safe. With a few minor modifications, being outside, the risks in raising are extremely low and the rewards high. ? Best regards, ? Mark ? PS: Racing rules for our Laser Fleet that we tested out last week: LaX Laser Fleet pandemic rules: Here are the ground rules we are starting with (and we will probably be a little more generous on the starting line and at mark groundings---thinking about maintaining social distancing and not being directly upwind of our favorite competitors). If anyone has constructive ideas to add please let me know:
Here are the ground rules going forward. Based on our experience they might very well be modified for future evenings:
1. Please take your temperature before coming down to the club. You can be contagious with the coronavirus before you show any overt symptoms. So please, before participating, error on the side of caution if you have any vague symptoms or doubts about your health (loss of taste/smell, fever, respiratory symptoms, swollen feet, etc.).
2. Masks are mandatory on and off the water. I have a "neck gator" on order and that might be the best option. If the mask is uncomfortable, and you are well away from anyone, you can take responsibility for taking a brief break-but that runs the risk of forgetting to put it back on so, just like a PFD, it's better to just wear one.
3. Unless the wind is light, and it is warm, we will all wear a PFD, shore to shore.
4. Before and after handling the lock and gate, or helping one of your fellow competitors lift the boat off of their vehicle (appropriately distanced at 14 feet-the length of a Laser?:-)?please wash your hands or use a disinfectant wipe.
5. Soap and water is the most effective prevention so please consider bringing down some soap, in a travel dish. You can use your elbow to turn the water on.
6. We will be rigging at least 20 feet apart. So as we pull our boats out of line, rig, and launch please be aware of the location of other competitors and negotiate the transitions. ?
? ?
|
TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY: Hiking Strap Retrofit
From: Mark Kastel <kastel@...>
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 4:14 PM
To: '[email protected]' <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY: Hiking Strap Retrofit ? Hello sports fans, ? After sharing the photos of my mount for the ratchet block (with the matching I strap underneath the deck for the forward mount of the hiking strap) I was contacted and asked how I mounted the aft end of the strap. Please find photos attached. And I appreciate the compliments regarding the photos. Since my boat is hanging upside down I had to stand on my head to take these :-) — a great way to store and transport your boat. ? Although the hardware is fairly generic if you want a turnkey updates, to make your boat race ready (outhauls, hiking strap, racing board, etc.), one shortcut is to find a qualified dealer that has gone through all this before. I've worked with The Dinghy Shop, on Long Island, and they've been happy to ship out here to flyover country (Wisconsin): . The outfit is run by a father and daughter team. Both of them are highly-competent and longtime competitors in the Sunfish class (and have made many other contributions to the organization as volunteers). So you get a lot of knowledge along with the equipment. ? Go sailing if you feel comfortable doing so! Day sailing alone is certainly safe. With a few minor modifications, being outside, the risks in raising are extremely low and the rewards high. ? Best regards, ? Mark ? PS: Racing rules for our Laser Fleet that we tested out last week: LaX Laser Fleet pandemic rules: Here are the ground rules we are starting with (and we will probably be a little more generous on the starting line and at mark groundings---thinking about maintaining social distancing and not being directly upwind of our favorite competitors). If anyone has constructive ideas to add please let me know:
Here are the ground rules going forward. Based on our experience they might very well be modified for future evenings:
1. Please take your temperature before coming down to the club. You can be contagious with the coronavirus before you show any overt symptoms. So please, before participating, error on the side of caution if you have any vague symptoms or doubts about your health (loss of taste/smell, fever, respiratory symptoms, swollen feet, etc.).
2. Masks are mandatory on and off the water. I have a "neck gator" on order and that might be the best option. If the mask is uncomfortable, and you are well away from anyone, you can take responsibility for taking a brief break-but that runs the risk of forgetting to put it back on so, just like a PFD, it's better to just wear one.
3. Unless the wind is light, and it is warm, we will all wear a PFD, shore to shore.
4. Before and after handling the lock and gate, or helping one of your fellow competitors lift the boat off of their vehicle (appropriately distanced at 14 feet-the length of a Laser?:-)?please wash your hands or use a disinfectant wipe.
5. Soap and water is the most effective prevention so please consider bringing down some soap, in a travel dish. You can use your elbow to turn the water on.
6. We will be rigging at least 20 feet apart. So as we pull our boats out of line, rig, and launch please be aware of the location of other competitors and negotiate the transitions. ?
? ?
|
TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY: Hiking Strap Retrofit
Hello sports fans, ? After sharing the photos of my mount for the ratchet block (with the matching I strap underneath the deck for the forward mount of the hiking strap) I was contacted and asked how I mounted the aft end of the strap. Please find photos attached. And I appreciate the compliments regarding the photos. Since my boat is hanging upside down I had to stand on my head to take these :-) — a great way to store and transport your boat. ? Although the hardware is fairly generic if you want a turnkey updates, to make your boat race ready (outhauls, hiking strap, racing board, etc.), one shortcut is to find a qualified dealer that has gone through all this before. I've worked with The Dinghy Shop, on Long Island, and they've been happy to ship out here to flyover country (Wisconsin): . The outfit is run by a father and daughter team. Both of them are highly-competent and longtime competitors in the Sunfish class (and have made many other contributions to the organization as volunteers). So you get a lot of knowledge along with the equipment. ? Go sailing if you feel comfortable doing so! Day sailing alone is certainly safe. With a few minor modifications, being outside, the risks in raising are extremely low and the rewards high. ? Best regards, ? Mark ? PS: Racing rules for our Laser Fleet that we tested out last week: LaX Laser Fleet pandemic rules: Here are the ground rules we are starting with (and we will probably be a little more generous on the starting line and at mark groundings---thinking about maintaining social distancing and not being directly upwind of our favorite competitors). If anyone has constructive ideas to add please let me know:
Here are the ground rules going forward. Based on our experience they might very well be modified for future evenings:
1. Please take your temperature before coming down to the club. You can be contagious with the coronavirus before you show any overt symptoms. So please, before participating, error on the side of caution if you have any vague symptoms or doubts about your health (loss of taste/smell, fever, respiratory symptoms, swollen feet, etc.).
2. Masks are mandatory on and off the water. I have a "neck gator" on order and that might be the best option. If the mask is uncomfortable, and you are well away from anyone, you can take responsibility for taking a brief break-but that runs the risk of forgetting to put it back on so, just like a PFD, it's better to just wear one.
3. Unless the wind is light, and it is warm, we will all wear a PFD, shore to shore.
4. Before and after handling the lock and gate, or helping one of your fellow competitors lift the boat off of their vehicle (appropriately distanced at 14 feet-the length of a Laser?:-)?please wash your hands or use a disinfectant wipe.
5. Soap and water is the most effective prevention so please consider bringing down some soap, in a travel dish. You can use your elbow to turn the water on.
6. We will be rigging at least 20 feet apart. So as we pull our boats out of line, rig, and launch please be aware of the location of other competitors and negotiate the transitions. ?
? ?
|
Re: TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY: Hiking Strap Retrofit
Hello sports fans, ? After sharing the photos of my mount for the ratchet block (with the matching I strap underneath the deck for the forward mount of the hiking strap) I was contacted and asked how I mounted the aft end of the strap. Please find photos attached. And I appreciate the compliments regarding the photos. Since my boat is hanging upside down I had to stand on my head to take these :-) — a great way to store and transport your boat. ? Although the hardware is fairly generic if you want a turnkey updates, to make your boat race ready (outhauls, hiking strap, racing board, etc.), one shortcut is to find a qualified dealer that has gone through all this before. I've worked with The Dinghy Shop, on Long Island, and they've been happy to ship out here to flyover country (Wisconsin): . The outfit is run by a father and daughter team. Both of them are highly-competent and longtime competitors in the Sunfish class (and have made many other contributions to the organization as volunteers). So you get a lot of knowledge along with the equipment. ? Go sailing if you feel comfortable doing so! Day sailing alone is certainly safe. With a few minor modifications, being outside, the risks in raising are extremely low and the rewards high. ? Best regards, ? Mark ? PS: Racing rules for our Laser Fleet that we tested out last week: LaX Laser Fleet pandemic rules: Here are the ground rules we are starting with (and we will probably be a little more generous on the starting line and at mark groundings---thinking about maintaining social distancing and not being directly upwind of our favorite competitors). If anyone has constructive ideas to add please let me know:
Here are the ground rules going forward. Based on our experience they might very well be modified for future evenings:
1. Please take your temperature before coming down to the club. You can be contagious with the coronavirus before you show any overt symptoms. So please, before participating, error on the side of caution if you have any vague symptoms or doubts about your health (loss of taste/smell, fever, respiratory symptoms, swollen feet, etc.).
2. Masks are mandatory on and off the water. I have a "neck gator" on order and that might be the best option. If the mask is uncomfortable, and you are well away from anyone, you can take responsibility for taking a brief break-but that runs the risk of forgetting to put it back on so, just like a PFD, it's better to just wear one.
3. Unless the wind is light, and it is warm, we will all wear a PFD, shore to shore.
4. Before and after handling the lock and gate, or helping one of your fellow competitors lift the boat off of their vehicle (appropriately distanced at 14 feet-the length of a Laser?:-)?please wash your hands or use a disinfectant wipe.
5. Soap and water is the most effective prevention so please consider bringing down some soap, in a travel dish. You can use your elbow to turn the water on.
6. We will be rigging at least 20 feet apart. So as we pull our boats out of line, rig, and launch please be aware of the location of other competitors and negotiate the transitions. ?
? ?
|
Re: Wetsuit for sailing a sunfish in Michigan
That is pretty dang cold!? People were out swimming here today in NC.? I have long shed the drysuit and today we had temps in the low 80ties.? Nice warm breezy day, perfect for my sail today.
Mr MIke
Sent from Windows Mail
Hi Roger, all,
For what it’s worth, I made my first outing of the season today wearing my new neoprene gear.
Nearest water temp reading to me is 44.2*F today (N. Atlantic), though the water I sailed in is most likely warmer. I had on a 3mm Farmer John style wetsuit, layered with a 3mm top, and neoprene long socks under my regular booties.?
Comfortable from launch to landing... hopefully my story helps you to gauge your needs!
Question for the larger group: when layering a Farmer John, do you tend to wear the neoprene top over, or under the FJ?
Best,
Kyle
On Apr 27, 2020, at 18:36, Michael King <mrmike17@...> wrote:
?
Just a comment.? I sail in the winter in NC.? Water temp gets to mid to high forties but we? often get days where air temps are?in the low fifties and brisk winds.? I wear a dry suit with?a thermal dry shirt and pants underneath and possibly a tee shirt
with a rain parka on the outside.? Also divers booties.? Even in 15 mph breeze I am very warm.? I do not like to be cold and do not tolerate it well.? I chose the dry suit to prevent hypothermia in the event I get dunked and it is quite flexible and comfortable.?
I also for safety reasons carry a portable waterproof VHF radio as well as a cell phone.? Not many boats out there to help you like summertime if for some reason I couldn’t right the boat or had a breakdown.? You have about an hour or less in that temp water
before you become incapacitated.
Better safe and comfortable.
Mr Mike
Sent from Windows Mail
Hi Roger
If you are sailing on a day where the thermometer reads 50°, and the wind is blowing a steady 15 MPH, the wind chill will make it feel like it is 36° (heat will be lost as though you are standing outside on a calm 36° day).? There are no hard and fast rules
when it comes to choosing which wetsuit to wear when it comes to wind chill.? Just remember, the higher the sustained wind speeds are on the water, the thicker and warmer your wetsuit needs to be that day.
In addition to water and air temperatures consider the following:
-
Your sensitivity to getting cold
-
How active you will be
Note: For colder than water air temperatures, higher wind, less active sailing, or if you get cold easily, consider a thicker wetsuit
Emefa
|
Re: Wetsuit for sailing a sunfish in Michigan
Hi Roger, all,
For what it’s worth, I made my first outing of the season today wearing my new neoprene gear.
Nearest water temp reading to me is 44.2*F today (N. Atlantic), though the water I sailed in is most likely warmer. I had on a 3mm Farmer John style wetsuit, layered with a 3mm top, and neoprene long socks under my regular booties.?
Comfortable from launch to landing... hopefully my story helps you to gauge your needs!
Question for the larger group: when layering a Farmer John, do you tend to wear the neoprene top over, or under the FJ?
Best, Kyle
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2020, at 18:36, Michael King <mrmike17@...> wrote:
?
Just a comment.? I sail in the winter in NC.? Water temp gets to mid to high forties but we? often get days where air temps are?in the low fifties and brisk winds.? I wear a dry suit with?a thermal dry shirt and pants underneath and possibly a tee shirt
with a rain parka on the outside.? Also divers booties.? Even in 15 mph breeze I am very warm.? I do not like to be cold and do not tolerate it well.? I chose the dry suit to prevent hypothermia in the event I get dunked and it is quite flexible and comfortable.?
I also for safety reasons carry a portable waterproof VHF radio as well as a cell phone.? Not many boats out there to help you like summertime if for some reason I couldn’t right the boat or had a breakdown.? You have about an hour or less in that temp water
before you become incapacitated.
Better safe and comfortable.
Mr Mike
Sent from Windows Mail
Hi Roger
If you are sailing on a day where the thermometer reads 50°, and the wind is blowing a steady 15 MPH, the wind chill will make it feel like it is 36° (heat will be lost as though you are standing outside on a calm 36° day).? There are no hard and fast rules
when it comes to choosing which wetsuit to wear when it comes to wind chill.? Just remember, the higher the sustained wind speeds are on the water, the thicker and warmer your wetsuit needs to be that day.
In addition to water and air temperatures consider the following:
-
Your sensitivity to getting cold
-
How active you will be
Note: For colder than water air temperatures, higher wind, less active sailing, or if you get cold easily, consider a thicker wetsuit
Emefa
|
TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY: Hiking Strap Retrofit
Hello sports fans, ? After sharing the photos of my mount for the ratchet block (with the matching I strap underneath the deck for the forward mount of the hiking strap) I was contacted and asked how I mounted the aft end of the strap. Please find photos attached. And I appreciate the compliments regarding the photos. Since my boat is hanging upside down I had to stand on my head to take these :-) — a great way to store and transport your boat. ? Although the hardware is fairly generic if you want a turnkey updates, to make your boat race ready (outhauls, hiking strap, racing board, etc.), one shortcut is to find a qualified dealer that has gone through all this before. I've worked with The Dinghy Shop, on Long Island, and they've been happy to ship out here to flyover country (Wisconsin): . The outfit is run by a father and daughter team. Both of them are highly-competent and longtime competitors in the Sunfish class (and have made many other contributions to the organization as volunteers). So you get a lot of knowledge along with the equipment. ? Go sailing if you feel comfortable doing so! Day sailing alone is certainly safe. With a few minor modifications, being outside, the risks in raising are extremely low and the rewards high. ? Best regards, ? Mark ? PS: Racing rules for our Laser Fleet that we tested out last week: LaX Laser Fleet pandemic rules: Here are the ground rules we are starting with (and we will probably be a little more generous on the starting line and at mark groundings---thinking about maintaining social distancing and not being directly upwind of our favorite competitors). If anyone has constructive ideas to add please let me know:
Here are the ground rules going forward. Based on our experience they might very well be modified for future evenings:
1. Please take your temperature before coming down to the club. You can be contagious with the coronavirus before you show any overt symptoms. So please, before participating, error on the side of caution if you have any vague symptoms or doubts about your health (loss of taste/smell, fever, respiratory symptoms, swollen feet, etc.).
2. Masks are mandatory on and off the water. I have a "neck gator" on order and that might be the best option. If the mask is uncomfortable, and you are well away from anyone, you can take responsibility for taking a brief break-but that runs the risk of forgetting to put it back on so, just like a PFD, it's better to just wear one.
3. Unless the wind is light, and it is warm, we will all wear a PFD, shore to shore.
4. Before and after handling the lock and gate, or helping one of your fellow competitors lift the boat off of their vehicle (appropriately distanced at 14 feet-the length of a Laser?:-)?please wash your hands or use a disinfectant wipe.
5. Soap and water is the most effective prevention so please consider bringing down some soap, in a travel dish. You can use your elbow to turn the water on.
6. We will be rigging at least 20 feet apart. So as we pull our boats out of line, rig, and launch please be aware of the location of other competitors and negotiate the transitions. ?
? ?
|
That didn't take long, you are definitively correct Joe. I had been calling it the sheet hook for decades. Interesting camera angle. Also interesting how the cockpit deck edge on some boats never had the aluminum trim. We have a 1982 boat like that. Maybe it was left off when there were trim shortages or cost cutting measures? Now let's stir things up and talk about bridles and coamings... Random photo below of the open fairlead NOT in use...  -- Cheers Clark and Skipper Our blog Our book?
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Re: securing new ratchet block
Be sure to take the hook off!?
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Re: securing new ratchet block
On May 22, 2020, at 11:33 PM, Randy Kramer < rhkramer@...> wrote: I'm not the op, but nice, helpful, thorough post -- thanks!
Thanks for the kind words!
Regarding my worry about?
one nuance (or nuisance) is that in really light?air it may tend to flop over and not pay out the sheet as freely as you’d?like, it looks like this becomes a non-issue if you install the block with a stand-up spring under it, as my2fish’s post has now illustrated. ?Come to think of it, I believe I’d seen that feature, on a block mounted to the cockpit sole of a bigger boat, but forgotten it. Might make the block less likely to strangle itself by falling in a heap during a lull or a gybe and getting a loop around itself.
If the spring pressure impedes the swiveling and that gives you trouble in light air, you can still play the sheet from above the block as I was talking about last night.
BTW this is probably obvious to everyone, but if you invest in nice hardware that’s made of metal (well, even just your spars) and then you sail in salt water, it’s a good idea to hose down your boat fairly thoroughly before it spends time back in storage. ?As part of that, I dump all my loose rigging parts (sheets, blocks, etc) in a bucket of fresh water overnight and then lay ‘em out to dry. ? For me that includes the ratchet block, since mine just dangles on a shackle from the c’board trunk (on the Tech), but if it were mounted on a standup spring I’d just drench it and let it stand there and drain itself.
Crispin
—————————————
On Friday, May 22, 2020 11:20:11 PM crispin_m_miller wrote: On May 22, 2020, at 8:29 PM, Brian Rood <brianfrood@...> wrote:
thinking about the H2135 57 mm ratchet block from Harken. Thoughts on
that?
My own experience with this family of block has been to think it’s great.
It might be bigger than you need, except that to run a comfortable-size
mainsheet (half-inch, in my opinion), you might not want a block much
smaller. ?This one should certainly be able to handle the load; it’s
listed as recommended for the much bigger Flying Scot. ??But OTOH the Scot
has a 3 1/2 :1 purchase on the boom, whereas the Sailfish has 1 1/2 :1
(reckoning the part of the line from mid-boom to cockpit as the 1/2 in
each case) — so the actual tension on the sheet may not be too different.
I say “this family of” block because mine is the 2135’s predecessor by 35
years, a 2 1/4” Harken Hexaratchet bought in 1984, but same size and with
same mildly polygonal sheave in it — so the corners of the polygon in the
sheave’s V groove act as modest jam cleats, adding up to a good belay
effect when the ratchet’s on. ?(There’s a lever to flip that turns the
ratchet off if you want, so that in light air you can play the sheet
without drag — I suppose that's standard with most ratchet blocks.) ??The
Hexarachet block was standard equipment on the fleet of Tech Dinghies I
learned on, and it was great, so when I refitted the beat-up 1964 Tech I
bought for myself (and still sail), I gave it one too, and have continued
to think it’s great. ?(My boat is intermediate in sail size between
Sunfish and Scot, and intermediate in mainsheet purchase as well, with 2
1/2:1. ?(The Scot has 3-part tackle at the stern, the Tech has 2, the
'Fish has 1.)
With any block that size, one nuance (or nuisance) is that in really light
air it may tend to flop over and not pay out the sheet as freely as you’d
like. ?But the remedy is easy, just bypass the block ?— run the sheet all
the way out to park the stop knot at the block, and then play the sail
purely by hand by taking hold of the sheet in the bight above the block.
Or just play the boom itself by hand.
So unless Harken's new generation has managed to introduce some defect, I
think you’ll like it.
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I don't?know for definitively what an "open fairlead" is, but this immediately sprang to mind. Saw the pictured widget on the forward cockpit lip of a 1966 Sunfish. It's basically a hook on the centerline to catch the mainsheet coming down from the boom and redirect it to the skipper's hand. That sounds like a fairlead's job. In the picture you're looking at it from below.
Regards, Joe
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Re: PHOTOS OF RATCHET BLOCK MOUNT: [SunfishSailor] securing new ratchet block
Here's my preferred setup and parts list:
- Harken 2135 ratchet block
- Harken 150 cam cleat (optional)
- Spring Cup HSB2
- Stand up spring H071
- Eyestrap, LP91100 or H137
- Stainless steel fasteners (I use machine screws, with a large flat washer and a nylon locking nut on the interior of the boat)
This picture shows all the parts/pieces, but is mounted on my Minifish (slightly different setup because of no cockpit lip).  On my newer Sunfish, I didn't bother with the cam cleat, and just mounted the ratchet block only.? Stainless steel machine screws, flat washers and nylon locking nuts below the cockpit lip.  A handy trick for installing the stand-up spring: use 2 or 3 zip ties to compress the spring, and then you can install the ratchet block connection to the eyestrap. 
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Re: PHOTOS OF RATCHET BLOCK MOUNT: [SunfishSailor] securing new ratchet block
Nice photos. We've looked at a lot of them, there's over 3000 in the files here. But that's the first time I remember of the underside of the cockpit lip :)?
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Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
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We are sifting through the Parts List for the ALCORT Wooden Sunfish kit and the very last item listed was Open fairlead. Took us a while to figure out what it was. What do y'all think it is? Also we cut a replacement transom from mahogany for a wooden Sunfish restoration project (not the Sunfish pictured, that's ZIP, who's getting a hull puncture repaired red and some other deferred maintenance.)     -- Cheers Clark and Skipper Our blog Our book?
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Re: securing new ratchet block
Nice tips. I like the one about adding the eyestrap below the lip, useful for a lot of things.
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Cheers
Clark and Skipper
Our blog
Our book?
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Re: securing new ratchet block
I'm not the op, but nice, helpful, thorough post -- thanks!
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On Friday, May 22, 2020 11:20:11 PM crispin_m_miller wrote: On May 22, 2020, at 8:29 PM, Brian Rood <brianfrood@...> wrote:
thinking about the H2135 57 mm ratchet block from Harken. Thoughts on
that? My own experience with this family of block has been to think it’s great.
It might be bigger than you need, except that to run a comfortable-size
mainsheet (half-inch, in my opinion), you might not want a block much
smaller. This one should certainly be able to handle the load; it’s
listed as recommended for the much bigger Flying Scot. But OTOH the Scot
has a 3 1/2 :1 purchase on the boom, whereas the Sailfish has 1 1/2 :1
(reckoning the part of the line from mid-boom to cockpit as the 1/2 in
each case) — so the actual tension on the sheet may not be too different.
I say “this family of” block because mine is the 2135’s predecessor by 35
years, a 2 1/4” Harken Hexaratchet bought in 1984, but same size and with
same mildly polygonal sheave in it — so the corners of the polygon in the
sheave’s V groove act as modest jam cleats, adding up to a good belay
effect when the ratchet’s on. (There’s a lever to flip that turns the
ratchet off if you want, so that in light air you can play the sheet
without drag — I suppose that's standard with most ratchet blocks.) The
Hexarachet block was standard equipment on the fleet of Tech Dinghies I
learned on, and it was great, so when I refitted the beat-up 1964 Tech I
bought for myself (and still sail), I gave it one too, and have continued
to think it’s great. (My boat is intermediate in sail size between
Sunfish and Scot, and intermediate in mainsheet purchase as well, with 2
1/2:1. (The Scot has 3-part tackle at the stern, the Tech has 2, the
'Fish has 1.)
With any block that size, one nuance (or nuisance) is that in really light
air it may tend to flop over and not pay out the sheet as freely as you’d
like. But the remedy is easy, just bypass the block — run the sheet all
the way out to park the stop knot at the block, and then play the sail
purely by hand by taking hold of the sheet in the bight above the block.
Or just play the boom itself by hand.
So unless Harken's new generation has managed to introduce some defect, I
think you’ll like it.
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Re: securing new ratchet block
thinking about the H2135 57 mm ratchet block from Harken. Thoughts on that?
My own experience with this family of block has been to think it’s great. ?It might be bigger than you need, except that to run a comfortable-size mainsheet (half-inch, in my opinion), you might not want a block much smaller. ?This one should certainly be able to handle the load; it’s listed as recommended for the much bigger Flying Scot. ? But OTOH the Scot has a 3 1/2 :1 purchase on the boom, whereas the Sailfish has 1 1/2 :1 (reckoning the part of the line from mid-boom to cockpit as the 1/2 in each case) — so the actual tension on the sheet may not be too different.
I say “this family of” block because mine is the 2135’s predecessor by 35 years, a 2 1/4” Harken Hexaratchet bought in 1984, but same size and with same mildly polygonal sheave in it — so the corners of the polygon in the sheave’s V groove act as modest jam cleats, adding up to a good belay effect when the ratchet’s on. ?(There’s a lever to flip that turns the ratchet off if you want, so that in light air you can play the sheet without drag — I suppose that's standard with most ratchet blocks.) ? The Hexarachet block was standard equipment on the fleet of Tech Dinghies I learned on, and it was great, so when I refitted the beat-up 1964 Tech I bought for myself (and still sail), I gave it one too, and have continued to think it’s great. ?(My boat is intermediate in sail size between Sunfish and Scot, and intermediate in mainsheet purchase as well, with 2 1/2:1. ?(The Scot has 3-part tackle at the stern, the Tech has 2, the 'Fish has 1.)
With any block that size, one nuance (or nuisance) is that in really light air it may tend to flop over and not pay out the sheet as freely as you’d like. ?But the remedy is easy, just bypass the block ?— run the sheet all the way out to park the stop knot at the block, and then play the sail purely by hand by taking hold of the sheet in the bight above the block. ? Or just play the boom itself by hand.
So unless Harken's new generation has managed to introduce some defect, I think you’ll like it.
Crispin
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