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Re: securing new ratchet block


 

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On May 22, 2020, at 11:33 PM, Randy Kramer <rhkramer@...> wrote:

I'm not the op, but nice, helpful, thorough post -- thanks!

Thanks for the kind words!

Regarding my worry about?

one nuance (or nuisance) is that in really light?air it may tend to flop over
and not pay out the sheet as freely as you’d?like,

it looks like this becomes a non-issue if you install the block with a stand-up spring under it, as my2fish’s post has now illustrated. ?Come to think of it, I believe I’d seen that feature, on a block mounted to the cockpit sole of a bigger boat, but forgotten it.
Might make the block less likely to strangle itself by falling in a heap during a lull or a gybe and getting a loop around itself.

If the spring pressure impedes the swiveling and that gives you trouble in light air, you can still play the sheet from above the block as I was talking about last night.

BTW this is probably obvious to everyone, but if you invest in nice hardware that’s made of metal (well, even just your spars) and then you sail in salt water, it’s a good idea to hose down your boat fairly thoroughly before it spends time back in storage. ?As part of that, I dump all my loose rigging parts (sheets, blocks, etc) in a bucket of fresh water overnight and then lay ‘em out to dry. ? For me that includes the ratchet block, since mine just dangles on a shackle from the c’board trunk (on the Tech), but if it were mounted on a standup spring I’d just drench it and let it stand there and drain itself.

Crispin

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On Friday, May 22, 2020 11:20:11 PM crispin_m_miller wrote:
On May 22, 2020, at 8:29 PM, Brian Rood <brianfrood@...> wrote:
thinking about the H2135 57 mm ratchet block from Harken. Thoughts on
that?

My own experience with this family of block has been to think it’s great.
It might be bigger than you need, except that to run a comfortable-size
mainsheet (half-inch, in my opinion), you might not want a block much
smaller. ?This one should certainly be able to handle the load; it’s
listed as recommended for the much bigger Flying Scot. ??But OTOH the Scot
has a 3 1/2 :1 purchase on the boom, whereas the Sailfish has 1 1/2 :1
(reckoning the part of the line from mid-boom to cockpit as the 1/2 in
each case) — so the actual tension on the sheet may not be too different.

I say “this family of” block because mine is the 2135’s predecessor by 35
years, a 2 1/4” Harken Hexaratchet bought in 1984, but same size and with
same mildly polygonal sheave in it — so the corners of the polygon in the
sheave’s V groove act as modest jam cleats, adding up to a good belay
effect when the ratchet’s on. ?(There’s a lever to flip that turns the
ratchet off if you want, so that in light air you can play the sheet
without drag — I suppose that's standard with most ratchet blocks.) ??The
Hexarachet block was standard equipment on the fleet of Tech Dinghies I
learned on, and it was great, so when I refitted the beat-up 1964 Tech I
bought for myself (and still sail), I gave it one too, and have continued
to think it’s great. ?(My boat is intermediate in sail size between
Sunfish and Scot, and intermediate in mainsheet purchase as well, with 2
1/2:1. ?(The Scot has 3-part tackle at the stern, the Tech has 2, the
'Fish has 1.)

With any block that size, one nuance (or nuisance) is that in really light
air it may tend to flop over and not pay out the sheet as freely as you’d
like. ?But the remedy is easy, just bypass the block ?— run the sheet all
the way out to park the stop knot at the block, and then play the sail
purely by hand by taking hold of the sheet in the bight above the block.
Or just play the boom itself by hand.

So unless Harken's new generation has managed to introduce some defect, I
think you’ll like it.





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