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Re: Best places to sell Sunfish (besides eBay)?
Try sailing Texas,, i had great luck there.
On Wednesday, May 8, 2019, 6:12:24 PM EDT, hughcg@... [sunfish_sailor] wrote:
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I never got on the Facebook, wife has it and I seen the market place in there and it does look like a good place to advertise.. Sent from my Verizon Motorola Droid |
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Re: Best places to sell Sunfish (besides eBay)?
If you are a Facebook user, post them to the Facebook Marketplace. Personally, I've gotten to where I don't really even use craigslist anymore. The advantages to using Facebook are overwhelming being that I'm already a user there.
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Best places to sell Sunfish (besides eBay)?
I have a couple Sunfish I'm ready to sell. Both are in need of some work. Priced to sell. I've listed on eBay. Any other ideas in case they don't sell? No trailer. Local pickup only. Craigslist? Boat Mags? Anything online anyone can recommend. I'm based in Maryland. (Not exactly a Sunfish mecca. This is Laser territory.) |
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Re: Should I DIY a homemade rudder blade?
I am proud to belong to, and support the Sunfish Class. Having said that, if you are not a member of the class and don't plan to race in sanctioned events, then the lower-priced parts are perfect. As someone said: Fix up your boat and go sailing. That's what the Sunfish is all about: FREEDOM.? Tom? |
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Re: Should I DIY a homemade rudder blade?
Yeah I forgot to mention Intensity sails parts are not class race legal, as I always sailed for fun not competition, so it is a lower price way of fixing up an old fish for the fun sailor, and is of good quality, I always did enjoy wood and composite fabrication, had fun cutting shaping sanding finishing drilling etc as I have lots of equipment, and I knew the red oak would not last, just couldn't get mohogany easy enough, but it worked for a while, Hugh Sent from my Verizon Motorola Droid |
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Re: Should I DIY a homemade rudder blade?
The cracked/split rudder is common and not too hard to fix. As far as making a new one, why not? As with the Intensity Sails blades (and sails) they are great unless you are planning to race in official, sanctioned Sunfish Class regattas you'll be happy. The quality is great, just they don't pay the big bucks to the builder like official Sunfish stuff.? Tom?
On Monday, May 6, 2019, 4:11:15 PM EDT, mark.suszko@... [sunfish_sailor] wrote:
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It's a fun woodworking/shop project to make a new rudder blade, and if it's not for racing, it may only matter to yourself how good a reproduction it is. ?But I tried to do this at one point and could not source the size of good wood I wanted at any lumberyard I tried, and the home centers were worse. I almost decided I'd have to first laminate ?some boards to build up a blank... ?You could go with something made of cheap, glassed, shaped pine or oak and throw it away at the end of the season, just so you get on the water sooner to have fun... to me, that's the primary goal. ?And I almost did that. In the end, I bought a cracked but original rudder for cheap off eBay, and carefully repaired it with internal threaded rods, epoxy and glass, and I trust it. You might have a go at restoring the existing rudder by taking it all apart, sanding it clean, adding some dovetailed jointed plugs or dowels across the break, and epoxying and glassing it back together. I mean, the stakes are low; you can experiment and build a skill. ? New rudders and daggerboards are pretty expensive, relative to the overall cost of an older boat. ?If you plan to race it or sell it, you want OEM, race-legal parts. ? For kicking around the borrow pit or local water hole, it may not be as big a deal. Don't let this stop you from hitting the water!
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Re: Should I DIY a homemade rudder blade?
It's a fun woodworking/shop project to make a new rudder blade, and if it's not for racing, it may only matter to yourself how good a reproduction it is. ?But I tried to do this at one point and could not source the size of good wood I wanted at any lumberyard I tried, and the home centers were worse. I almost decided I'd have to first laminate ?some boards to build up a blank... ?You could go with something made of cheap, glassed, shaped pine or oak and throw it away at the end of the season, just so you get on the water sooner to have fun... to me, that's the primary goal. ?And I almost did that.
In the end, I bought a cracked but original rudder for cheap off eBay, and carefully repaired it with internal threaded rods, epoxy and glass, and I trust it. You might have a go at restoring the existing rudder by taking it all apart, sanding it clean, adding some dovetailed jointed plugs or dowels across the break, and epoxying and glassing it back together. I mean, the stakes are low; you can experiment and build a skill. ? New rudders and daggerboards are pretty expensive, relative to the overall cost of an older boat. ?If you plan to race it or sell it, you want OEM, race-legal parts. ? For kicking around the borrow pit or local water hole, it may not be as big a deal. Don't let this stop you from hitting the water! |
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Re: Should I DIY a homemade rudder blade?
开云体育Hi, Ben,I’ve made a replacement rudder for a Tech Dinghy and it works great. ?Used it a lot for the first 15 years, less for the next 15, but it’s still fine. If you can affordably get that small a chunk of marine plywood, in suitable thickness, I’d do that. ? For mine, because I wanted a custom thickness (1 1/4”), I laminated it from five layers of generic 1/4” lauan plywood, epoxied together with West epoxy. ?I did make sure (1) there were no voids in the plywood inner layers and (2) that the plywood’s glue passed the boil test (boil half an hour without coming apart). ?Don’t clamp too tightly when you glue it up, you want to keep a non-zero thickness of epoxy In there, not all squoze out. How much of the rest of this you want to mess with will depend on how high a performance and durability you’re going for, and on what your class rules may allow about the shape. After I’d sanded mine to shape, I sheathed it with a layer or two of 6-ounce glass fabric wetted out with epoxy. ?(30 years ago, don’t remember.) ?If you do that, I’d use 2 layers on at least the leading edge and bottom tip, where it’ll be exposed to abrasion. ?(Even so, I’ve ended up dabbing bits of epoxy on as touch-up, once I’ve got it dry after I’ve run it aground on a ramp. ?The wood lasts best if you can keep it sealed.) ?Wet out the wood itself first so the glass doesn’t end up starved by having the wood sponge up the epoxy. Do your class rules specify what profiles the leading and trailing edges can have? ? If not, I’d round the leading edge into a decent approximation of the front half of a slender ellipse (like, extending about 3 board-thicknesses back, to reach full thickness, i.e. like the front half of a 6:1 ellipse), and taper the trailing edge with a long shallow slope, starting maybe 4-6 thicknesses from the edge. ?Taper it to a final edge thickness of about 1/8” to 3/16” so it’s not too fragile. What I actually did, for best streamlining and stall resistance, was actually to sand my fat plywood sandwich to be a NACA 0012 foil shape. ?Did generate a lot of sawdust but wasn’t actually difficult. ?Call it overkill, but it does work very nicely. ?Good to have some 60-grit and 24-grit to grind off most of the bulky part of the task. ?Or a plane, but you’d want to be good at resharpening if you’re using plywood (which kind of eats plane-blade edges). For the leading-edge profile you can plot out the shape full-size on cardboard and cut it out as a fitting gauge, and then once you get a short portion of the edge defined, you can extend that profile up and down the rest of the edge just by watching where your sanding/planing exposes the glue seams in the plywood, like contour lines on a map, and sanding/planing to a shape that makes those lines all run parallel from where they show up on the part you first gauged with the template. For the trailing edge the taper is pretty uniform, so once you’ve established what taper it should be to match the foil, you can just make a wide uniform slope, and round over the region between leading and trailing very broadly, very gently rounded with max thickness about 40% from the leading edge. If you do want the NACA shape and don’t find the shape definition for it on the web easily, write again and I’ll find you one. ?Or if you find a NACA 00-anything, they’re all proportional, you just scale the thickness. ?The -12 (or other ending digits) are the thickness as a percentage of the “chord” (front-to-back dimension), so a 0012 is about an inch thick for an 8-inch chord. ?You don’t have to use exactly a 12 — thinner is faster through the water but fatter is more stall-resistant (i.e., resistant to losing its grip on the water if you steer it abruptly.). If you get much thinner than 12, though, I’d shape the leading and trailing regions as a 12 and leave the middle region flat, to avoid making the edges too sharp. BTW you might think stall resistance is less important with a centerboard, which is always going straight and usually fast — but that’s except when it isn’t going fast. ?If you’re trying to maneuver through a crowded mooring field in light air, it’s a tad disconcerting when your speed drops enough that your board loses its grip and you start moving sideways into that big boat you were trying to sneak past. ?Best protection from that is a smoothly ellipse-like leading edge resembling the nose of the 0012. Take it all for what it’s worth to you — Best, Crispin Miller
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Re: Should I DIY a homemade rudder blade?
I made a rudder, tiller, and dagger out of red oak I got from Lowe's, glassed over with thin light weight cloth and epoxy resin, but red oak is not the best choice of wood, if you can find white oak, mahogany, or ash would be much better. After sand from hitting bottom it wore off some fiberglass and water seeped into wood. Intensity sails has wood and composite blades and tiller and sail for a fraction of the cost of original. The sail is right at $100 , the blades are less than $200 each, even the composites, I would check out their website, compair price against good wood and your labor of cutting, sanding, finishing homemade to intensity sails price. Hugh Sent from my Verizon Motorola Droid |
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Should I DIY a homemade rudder blade?
Hey guys, I have an old sunfish that my dad go when I was a kid and is now in my hands... the boat is a bit rough, but solid.? I'd like to get a new sail, but first I need to address the rudder, which has a crack going down the middle of it, braced by 4 "thin" pieces of sheet metal, 2 on each side.? I'd like to make a new rudder (and daggerboard?) from quality marine lumber/plywood.? Has anyone done this and have any recommendations?? Then I would feel better about spending money on a new sail! -Ben |
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Re: How do I replace aluminum trim on a Sunfish?
I have the rivets, I bought it with the trim ?Thanks!?
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On Sunday, May 5, 2019, 8:09 PM, Thomas Payne thomas3452@... [sunfish_sailor] wrote:
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Re: How do I replace aluminum trim on a Sunfish?
The best alternative to the aluminum trim is an Edge Trim that is available from McMaster-Carr Supply Company. You will easily find them on the internet.? The Part Number is: 8451A24. I like the white color and I buy the 50 foot roll to do the boat and also the cockpit edge trim. It is $70.00 plus freight for a 50 foot roll.? Tom?
On Sunday, May 5, 2019, 8:31:57 PM EDT, mark.suszko@... [sunfish_sailor] wrote:
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Getting the proper rivets is worth it: too long, and they go all the way thru and leave a jagged, finger-slashing protrusion underneath. ? While the trim's off is the time to check the integrity of the seam, and you can use MarineTex to fill in old rivet holes. Resist the urge to just glue the trim on with silicone. The metal trim is expensive bought new and is expensive to ship, new OR old, so treat what you have with care. There is a slit-tubing kind of vinyl plastic bumper type material some people have used instead; if you're not a purist, it can work, and a coil of it ships easier than a 10-foot-long stick of aluminum, though the price may not be any better. ?I've even seen people use white garden hose and thick rope as replacement edge trim, but I don't recommend those except in the most desperate cases. |
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Re: How do I replace aluminum trim on a Sunfish?
Getting the proper rivets is worth it: too long, and they go all the way thru and leave a jagged, finger-slashing protrusion underneath. ? While the trim's off is the time to check the integrity of the seam, and you can use MarineTex to fill in old rivet holes. Resist the urge to just glue the trim on with silicone.
The metal trim is expensive bought new and is expensive to ship, new OR old, so treat what you have with care. There is a slit-tubing kind of vinyl plastic bumper type material some people have used instead; if you're not a purist, it can work, and a coil of it ships easier than a 10-foot-long stick of aluminum, though the price may not be any better. ?I've even seen people use white garden hose and thick rope as replacement edge trim, but I don't recommend those except in the most desperate cases. |
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Re: How do I replace aluminum trim on a Sunfish?
I have the exact rivet here. It is 1/8" Diameter x 3/16" Grip. The Part Number is: AD43ABS. Rivet, Alum/Alum 1/8d x 3/16g,? I will mail you 50 of them if you'll Pay Pal me $5.00. I think that will cover the postage.? Tom?
On Sunday, May 5, 2019, 6:49:07 PM EDT, Craig cjo1023@... [sunfish_sailor] wrote:
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With new trim. Haha. Anyway if you need to remove damaged trim then you need to drill out the old rivets. Then trim will come off. Use small diameter drill, 1/8”, otherwise you could accidentally drill a bigger hole in deck. When replacing with either new trim or used trim I try to use the same holes. May not always be possible. In which case a 1/8” pop river will work. Don’t drill through lower or underside part of trim, only top part of trim and deck. Pop river is 1/8” diameter and no more than 1/4” long. If you need trim I have one complete boats worth and then some other smaller pieces. If shipping is required I would have to limit to about 5 ft long. On Sunday, May 5, 2019, 4:37 PM, Charles Butchart chollymon2002@... [sunfish_sailor] wrote:
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Re: How do I replace aluminum trim on a Sunfish?
With new trim. Haha. Anyway if you need to remove damaged trim then you need to drill out the old rivets. Then trim will come off. Use small diameter drill, 1/8”, otherwise you could accidentally drill a bigger hole in deck.
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When replacing with either new trim or used trim I try to use the same holes. May not always be possible. In which case a 1/8” pop river will work. Don’t drill through lower or underside part of trim, only top part of trim and deck. Pop river is 1/8” diameter and no more than 1/4” long. If you need trim I have one complete boats worth and then some other smaller pieces. If shipping is required I would have to limit to about 5 ft long. On Sunday, May 5, 2019, 4:37 PM, Charles Butchart chollymon2002@... [sunfish_sailor] wrote:
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Re: Rudder Angle
Mark: The advantage(s) are listed as bullet points.
But I wouldn't drill any holes in your blade until the proposed change is approved by World Sailing.?
-----Original Message----- From: scott E sje_scott@... [sunfish_sailor] To: sunfish_sailor Sent: Tue, Apr 30, 2019 6:47 am Subject: Re: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Sailfish hulls cheap
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Min from advisory board....
Change Rudder Angle To A More Vertical Rudder
It was proposed and approved after a long discussion and a year-long evaluation period that a modification of the existing rudder to achieve a more vertical rudder
Add Rule 3.3.3
The Sunfish rudder may be modified by drilling a new pivot point hole and attaching the tiller bolt where the original pivot point was so the angle between the leading edge of the rudder and the centerline bottom of the hull is no less than XXX degrees. The modified rudder shall match the template provided in appendix XX. A skipper may choose to sail with a standard or a modified rudder as long as they do not change during a regatta.
XXX degrees is to be measured and included as part of this rule
Rationale
A more vertical rudder will improve safety by:
? The improved rudder effectiveness across all windspeeds but especially in strong winds
will offer more control and prevent dangerous frequent wipeouts due to the current
rudder’s swept-back design
? A massive reduction in tiller loads will decrease health risks associated with typically
very high tiller loads, especially in strong winds Furthermore:
? A massive reduction in tiller loads will make the boat more appealing to youth, women,
lightweight and master sailors in the class
? It will prevent the common breakage of cheek plates
? Nearly zero implementation cost
? Reduction of scullability will reduce the temptation to engage in this illegal practice
? It will improve the experience of sailing the Sunfish in every condition but especially in
stronger winds. This has been proven by experimentation and the zero-implementation cost makes a welcome change for the class. These benefits can be user-installed without special tools or skills.
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