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Re: Rudder and tiller help


Gail M. Turluck
 

Most suspect places to look are the entire daggerboard trunk, mast step, and
if you have the old style rudder (brass fittings), the screw into the bottom
of the hull. After those comes the rim of the deck, but those leaks are
harder to repair (not impossible). Good luck. ]

When air testing you need a fair amount of pressure, but not enough to blow
the fiberglass off the 2-part expando-foam that glues it to the styrofoam
blocks.


--G

~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~
Gail M. Turluck
Sunfish 24186
~~~/)~~~~/)~~~/)~~~~~/)~~~~~~/)~~

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Carney [mailto:wcarney@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 2:11 PM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: RE: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Rudder and tiller help


Hi Mike,

Saturday was too calm, and I could barely putt around.
There are some tricks, e.g, Sit on the leeward side to help the sail to
fill, sit down in the cockpit, push the boom out to catch some wind. You'll
learn as you sail more.


It was frustrating trying to sail straight and I found out
how much sailing the boat requires skill rather than knowledge.
Knowledge AND Skill! ...that puts you a class above power boats that only
need gas. 8^)

Try sailing "off the wind" a bit more while you are practicing your skills.
Practice pointing close to the wind on calmer days. Easier said than done,
but it's a way to handle stiff breezes.


I got very good at righting the boat after
capsizing (must have done it 10 times)
A very good skill to have. Good sailing classes teach this in the first
lessons... you can see why now. You're really good when the boat blows over
and you are still sitting on the side rail and don't even get wet.


There are a number of scrapes and pits in the gel coat where I can
see fiberglass. I can go around to each of those and patch them with
West Systems epoxy.
Gelcoat paste might be less expensive.


I plan to air-test the hull for leaks after
that. Sound ok?
Sounds good. see:
Remember, the technique is to blow air _at_ the drain hole, don't seal the
connection and pressurize the hull - you can blow a seam.

Sounds like you have been taking on a lot of water. The most important thing
to do at this point is to install an inspection port. see:
-and-



Will I be doing any harm to the hull by sailing it
again after these repairs (but before I dry it out)?
The sooner you can dry it out the better, but you should be able to go
sailing in the mean time. If you are still taking on water you may be
negating your efforts until you can let it dry completely.

Look over the material on waterlogged boats in the Group FILES area.
"Search" back through the various discussions on the topic in the message
area.


Sail on,

Wayne


OBTW, Lots more good tips in the Wind Line How To Page:








-----Original Message-----
From: fnhspartan [mailto:marquette_93@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 11:04 AM
To: sunfish_sailor@...
Subject: [sunfish_sailor] Re: Rudder and tiller help


Thanks, Wayne. I took my Sunfish out for the first time last
weekend. What an education!

Saturday was too calm, and I could barely putt around. Sunday was
too windy (15+ knots?) for a first-time sailor and I got blown down
the lake. It was frustrating trying to sail straight and I found out
how much sailing the boat requires skill rather than knowledge.

I got very good at righting the boat after capsizing (must have done
it 10 times) but the worst part was towing home a hull that was
nearly filled with water. I emptied it out and it's sitting on dry
land now but I need some advice:

There are a number of scrapes and pits in the gel coat where I can
see fiberglass. I can go around to each of those and patch them with
West Systems epoxy. I plan to air-test the hull for leaks after
that. Sound ok? Will I be doing any harm to the hull by sailing it
again after these repairs (but before I dry it out)?

Thanks again.

-Mike






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