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Alternator Rebuild - comments and pics
Sorry I tried to start a new thread and failed
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Friends, I have had considerable difficult removing my wiring harness. I cut out a portion of my rear Westy seat box but still couldn’t get the connector through the hole, so I snipped it off and pulled the wiring into the engine bay. I posted the following on the samba so I thought I would post it here as well as I try to get some guidance on removing the harness. One kind samba member has responded so far and provided a photo (many thanks 4Gears4Tires!!). “Okay guys. I’m not sure how to pull the Vanagon wiring harness, i.e., what to take out and what to leave behind. I removed the ECU and pulled the main harness back into the engine bay and started to try to figure out what was what. There is apparently a main harness and an engine management harness. I should remove the engine management harness but I don’t know the difference. I asked for help from Jeff at AVSubaruconversions, who did my wiring harness, and indicated that I am a visual person and asked if he had any photos. He said “I don’t have any photos. To do a swap you need to be familiar with both platforms” and eventually told me “you need to know what you’re dealing with and looking at to do a swap. At this point you would have to research or pay somebody that knows how to do a swap if you don’t want to research.” The mechanicals are easy for me. The electrics are not. So I’m doing research as Jeff suggested and asking for help! What to take out and what to leave behind? When I received my harness Jeff included some notes and a screenshot of Smallcar’s diagram to connect to the black box. So I feel confident that when I get to that point I will be able to install the modified harness. But I need to get to that point. Any help, photos, diagrams, etc. will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!” -- Warren 89 Westy 88 Tintop 70 Westy
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EJ22 OBD-1: Strange Start Problem (Pt 3)
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I gathered some more information this afternoon; I'm learning this start sequence is a bit complex.... - Fuel Pressure test Gauge tee-d in after the filter Turning the key to 'Run' IF the CEL cycles (as I described before) then the fuel pump doesn't come on until the CEL becomes constant (this happens unpredictably, sometimes immediately, sometimes after a few s, sometimes it seems to just keep on cycling) - Once CEL is constant, then the fuel pump turns on for 2-3 s; pressure rises to ~32-34 psi (that seems about right?) - Then pump turns off and pressure decays back to < 10 psi pretty fast (in < 10 s) Going from 'Run' to 'Start' turns the fuel pump on again and the engine usually (but not always cleanly) fires up Fuel pressure remains at 32 - 43 psi when the engine is running (higher when revving the engine); that seems correct. The rapid decay of fuel pressure once the pump turns off seems wrong; I would have expected it to stay high for 30 - 60s at least (that's what I'm used to on my L-Jetronic TR7s). If this indicates a leak, then I would think the only possible causes could be the pressure regulator or injectors - anything else? Jason suggested the ignition switch may be at fault; that may be possible so I'll try that but I can't get any different result by any kind of pressure/wiggling of the key/switch Thanks for reading my long missives and for all your ideas! Fuel pressure regulator on order... Spare injectors dug out of my parts stash; they need rebuilding first... THANKS Mike Hart Paso Robles, CA (650) 387-8957 mjhart853@...
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My 1987 Westfalia has a 1994 OBD-1 EJ22/25 Frankenmotor (50k+ on the conversion done by 523Rods) I have a strange starting issue; - Normally the engine starts right up (just a few seconds of cranking) - A few times now it either takes a long time or won't fire up at all - Still cranks perfectly normally (high torque starter running fast) - Also, occasionally (and it seems related), when I turn the key to the 'Run' position and don't go straight to 'Start', the CEL flashes On and Off repeatedly plus I hear relays clicking in the back - there are two relays (starter and Ignition) next to the ECU under the seat and one or both seem to be the ones doing this Ideas? Thanks, Mike Hart Paso Robles, CA (650) 387-8957 mjhart853@...
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EJ22 OBD-1: Strange Start Problem (addendum to 'Pt 2')
In my earlier long post I should have mentioned; - the two green OBD-1 test connectors at the ECU are definitely NOT connected (I understand this test procedure to read codes and thanks to Brent and others that reminded me of this; I haven't touched the ECU and connectors for a while and the problem came up without me fiddling with anything there...) Thanks, Mike Hart Paso Robles, CA (650) 387-8957 mjhart853@...
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EJ22 OBD-1: Strange Start Problem (Pt 2)
Thanks for all the great suggestions on the start problem I have on my EJ22 I have investigated several items and am looking to next steps Background: 1987 Westfalia w/ 1994 OBD-1 EJ22/25 Frankenmotor w/ starting issue; - Normally the engine starts right up (just a few seconds of cranking) - A few times now it has taken a long time or wouldn't fire up at all - Still cranks perfectly normally (high torque starter running fast) - Also, occasionally, when I turn the key to the 'Run' position and don't go straight to 'Start', the CEL flashes On and Off repeatedly plus I hear relays clicking in the back Update: - changed the fuel pump relay and ignition relay - installed new fuel pump and post- pump filter (no pre-filter on this van) - main battery voltage ~12.2V (it's not new but I keep it on a NOCO maintainer); very heavy duty battery cables to the engine - still have basically the same problem: starts OK much of the time; sometimes takes several seconds of cranking; sometimes CEL and relays cycle ON and Off several times if I hold in 'Run' position before going to 'Start'. If I wait for the CEL to stop cycling, then the engine starts pretty much normally Next Steps: I'm guessing the fuel pump is taking a few seconds to bring pressure up and that there is a fuel supply issue; hence: - I'll put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel hose to the engine - I'll order a new fuel pressure regulator Any other thoughts? I believe I have most of the diagnostic equipment and spare parts (fuel pressure gauge, spare Bosch pumps, filters etc.) as I have diagnosed many Triumph TR7s which use (virtually) the same L-Jetronic EFI system as the original Vanagon wasserboxer; though the Subaru EJ22 behaviour is a bit different it seems (a pulsing fuel pump at start is normal???) Thanks again for all your advice Mike Hart Paso Robles, CA (650) 387-8957 mjhart853@...
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Today I thought I would begin removing the Vanagon wiring harness and ECU, but I have no clue how to go about this, I.e., what to remove and what to leave behind. Since I’ve decided to sell the 2.1 I would like to remove the harness without cutting any wiring if possible and let it go to whoever buys the engine. -- Warren 89 Westy 88 Tintop 70 Westy
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I thought as I move to phase two of this project it would make sense to start a new topic related to pulling the engine and transmission from my 89 Westy. Hang with me as I’ll need some advice going forward Thanks! -- Warren 89 Westy 88 Tintop 70 Westy
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David Clymer / 5 Speed Bus
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Hello Group, I am trying to contact David Clymer and my information must not be current. Can anyone help me to get in contact with him please?
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max continuous current draw / vw starter + ej22
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I'm considering replacing my batteries with a 100 AH 12.6V LIFeP04. The few I examined thus far can support 100 A draw. I hear the original starter drew 65A spinning the air-cooled engine. At $150ish, seems far better than an agm or conventional lead-acid. I suspect that it's harder to spin the ej22 and wonder what the current draw is. Also, I suspect that my subaru alternator has sufficient voltage capacity to charge it to ~80%. I'm also tempted to add a 12V heater and (thermostat) so that the battery will charge in the winter. Thoughts?( Thanks, Eric
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ECU number translation/harness
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I am buying a new harness because it seems I have multiple shorts in the harness on the motor section between grey plug and sensor plugs. I have sourced several on the internet but seems like I should be using the ECU numbers to match with the harness. Can anyone tell me which numbers on the ECU correspond to match a harness ? 2000 Impreza 2.5L SOHC auto trans I think because yrs ago we did ground the parking brake wire. The number on ECU which I think is what I should use is : 22611 AF581. Other (all) numbers on ECU include (from top to bottom, left to right) M2, 22611 AF581, A18-000 DY5 9823. The closest matching harness is 24020 AF531. So any guru advice out there on how to match up my ECU with a stock internet harness ? I tried iWire.com but they wont build a custom harness even though they have all the plugs and wire. I am also open to other wire loom shops or ideas. TIA SeanG 87 Syncro
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This seems to be a common issue. Likely due to location given the heat and vibration and the 90 degree bend of the cable right at the sensor it’s kind of doomed to fail. This is a sohc na 2.5, 2002. What I found on my harness is that the injector connectors are the same as the crank sensor connector, the wiring is copper shielded however so I was careful not to lose too much of the copper braid. I ended up soldering the ends of the wire or “tinning” them as it’s called and then used heat shrink crimped connectors and covered the whole thing in 3 to 1 glued heat shrink. While the heat shrink was cooling I put a 90 degree bend in the whole package so it wouldn’t be bent against its will down the road. Finally I tested the whole mess at the engine bay harness connector (grey one) for resistance with a sensor connected and got 1.9 kilo ohms which seems to be inline with what that sensor puts out. All in all stressful but it seems successful. Picture of before. I also added a picture of my rebuilt heads as that was a much more successful mission yesterday lol John
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Fuel rail pressure regulator
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Hi group, I need a bit of help, Actually, on my Subaru/Vanagon conversion project, I am working around my EJ25-2011 fuel system. Here are my 2 questions : I am tempt to buy and install an Automotive 13129 injection fuel by-pass pressure regulator. Did some of you have an opinion or experience to share on this regulator ? Is this a good choice for the EJ25 application ? On the right side of the engine (facing crank pulley), between cylinders the air intakes, there are two fuel rail tubings. The first one is obviously for the fuel line pressure quick connector. The second one is a plain straight tube made to receive a slip-on rubber line and a collar. Is this some sort of fuel rail vacuum line ? Could you explain the function of this tube ? What should I do with it ? Thanks for your help, Bernard
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Hey all - I have about 160K miles on my 2001 EJ25 since its transplant in 2003. I'll have the syncro in the garage for a few weeks to work on backlogged tasks. I'd like to get the fuel injectors bench-tested -- does anyone have a recommendation for an outfit that does this in the Seattle/Olympia area? thanks Kurt 87 syncro
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Greetings fellow Subie converts. Back in the fall I purchased a 2003 Legacy 2.5 SOHC. The vehicle had 164,000 miles. Ran great, no smoke, and I drove it home. I’ve spent the past couple of months doing an engine refresh (heads machined, new head gaskets, etc.) I’m about to finish up with the engine (hopefully) and anticipate needing to call upon this list’s wisdom as I prepare to put it in my 89 Westy MT. I plan to post my progress in text and photos in case someone might find it useful. I’m also sharing info on thesamba.com as that is a great resource as well. Warren ‘89 Westy (which I just drove to Buses by the Bridge)
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Hi all, I’m trying to get the Alternator light working correctly as it currently stays on. I’ve looked at Weide guide but my 85 has a different style fuse panel and I have searched this group and can’t seem to find my answer. Some background info: 85 westy frankenmotor previous owner installed solar and removed fridge. Under the driver seat I found 2 blue wires (one labeled radio and the other unlabeled but screwed to the panel with a few other red wires and a wire labeled charger (one of these rant to the aux battery under the bench seat). I disconnected this blue wire and the alt light still stayed on after starting the car. I found this guide on Busaru as well as his supporting video on YouTube that might be a fix by installing a relay at the fuse panel by cutting the blue wire there (which I located on my van) but wanted to check with the group before cutting any wiring. Thanks in advance! This group has been an amazing resource! https://www.busaru.com/subaruvanagon/finalelements
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harness conversion
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Hello again, still working on my new harness conversion, 2004 Impreza AT going into a '91 MT Vanagon. How do I tell the ECU that the vehicle is a MT now? On the ECU I/O signal sheet I can't find a pin where I should add a wire to to tell the ECU it's now manual? Any advice? Thanks
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Subaru Wiring conversion
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Hello, I'm currently working on a harness conversion from a 2004 Impreza, EJ25 SOHC, gong into a '91 Vanagon. As I was cleaning up the wiring harness, I came across some cut wires, that were leading back to 2 components. Both of theses were originally located on the left engine bay in Impreza. I believe, one is a Fuel Injector Resistor and the other one, I can't find a name on it. I have a product # B31037-00100-00. Both have wires leading back to the engine connectors. Unfortunately, I can't find any pin out for the engine connectors and my wiring diagram doesn't have both of these items. Is there any documentation available? I assume both of these should/ are required for the conversion? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again
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Installing pilot bearing in KEP Flywheel
I'm replacing the pilot bearing in a kep flywheel. It has been on a shelf for a while so it may be contaminated. When removing the old one I was a bit surprised how much it deformed, so I'm a smidge concerned about installing the new one. Should I use my press, or a nut and bolt, or hammer with a small plate?
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Starting EJ22 motor after 13 months
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Followup for you guys: Even though Dashboard is not perfectly rebuilt, it is sufficient for now. So back to the motor to undo spark plugs, squirt oil fog in, turn motor to gently build oil pressure, then install spark plugs again. (My only advice---find a suitable piece of very flexible rubber hose to attach to end of provided stiff plastic pipe on Oil Fogger spray can, about a foot long, will make the job so much easier.) It all worked! Like I had planned it. Oil warning light was on for 4 seconds while pressure built, then shut off. After final installation of plugs, cranked motor; it fired up in 1 second. Idled smoothly and nicely; bunch of anxiety instantly eliminated. Drove to Costco to fill gas tank; also inflated tires to correct pressure; I'm on my way!!!
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Sat 8:39am
Sat 8:39am