Re: EJ22 OBD-1: Fuel Pressure Regulators
Rockauto has a Standard Motor Products FPR (PR260) rated at 36 psi for the 94 2.2 NA.I got a Standard Motor Products? FPR for my 02 2.5 that worked well.
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Re: EJ22 OBD-1: Fuel Pressure Regulators
Welcome to the modern age of auto repair. The parts are all crap, everything needs to be rechecked. The residual fuel problem is a check valve at the pump on the VW. another $5. As for the fuel pressure, monitor o2 sensor and fuel trims. The aftermarket will combine part numbers without any knowledge of what is going on. I recently replaced a fuel pump on 1990 GMC syclone, the catalogued pumps all would not support the turbo. Is there a drivability problem with the 43 psi? the o2 should compensate for that. If there was a symptom from the old regulator, maybe it's not the regulator. I would be ok with -15% trim at idle. If highway cruise is more than -10% and acceleration is still in the negative, injectors are an option.
On Wednesday, March 26, 2025 at 04:29:27 PM PDT, Mike Hart via groups.io <mjhart853@...> wrote:
As an addendum to my EJ22 Strange Start Problem debug, I had an issue finding correct and quality parts; perhaps someone has comments on the following?
I bought 2 new fuel pressure regulators (Herko and Beck Arnley brands) - I couldn't find any genuine Subaru units from any of the Subaru parts dealers. Both were supposedly correct for the 1994?Legacy EJ22 that my engine started life as? NOT! Both turned out to be 3.0 Bar (43 psi) units and measured fuel pressure (at Idle) was markedly higher than the original.? Research on this led me to see (in Haynes) that there are different specs for the non-turbo EJ22 ?(2.5 Bar = 36 psi) and turbo EJ22 (3.0 Bar = 43 psi) However all the online?parts listings I can find claim their units work across both engines; obviously incorrect.
I put the old Subaru original back in (it's marked as JECs A44-000R55) to recover the lower pressure
....Any ideas on where to get a 'correct' 2.5 Bar unit from? (Subaru parts dealers have a part # 22670AA050 but they list this for both non-turbo and turbo cars...). Also, how to be sure they really are 2.5 Bar units before installing and?measuring them?
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Re: EJ22 OBD-1: Fuel Pressure Regulators
Small car sells one, mounts between the rail and the fuel filter. Gives you around 50 psi I think. Don’t the 2.2s have a rail mounted pressure regulator like my 2.5 does? When last I checked it was still available.?
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On Wed, Mar 26, 2025 at 6:23?PM SubieVanagon via groups.io <wklail@...> wrote:
I looked up the part you reinstalled and it came back as a fuel injector rail (A44-000R55). Subarupartsdeal shows the other part (22670AA050) as discontinued but even then they do not mention anything about the pressure. ?You may have to go to a parts yard and find a used one.?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: EJ22 OBD-1: Fuel Pressure Regulators
I looked up the part you reinstalled and it came back as a fuel injector rail (A44-000R55). Subarupartsdeal shows the other part (22670AA050) as discontinued but even then they do not mention anything about the pressure. ?You may have to go to a parts yard and find a used one.?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Warrens Conversion -Heater Hose Routing
My heater hose arrived from GoWesty and ibm e got the outside(passenger side) hose connected at the front. My objective is to route that one hose (or both?) through the fuel tank tunnel, which will make fitting those RMW coolant pipes easier (I hope). I’ve done a test fitting (see photos). Please provide feedback on this idea if you don’t mind.
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p.s. the GoWesty hose is a bit larger (OD) than the original
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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EJ22 OBD-1: Fuel Pressure Regulators
As an addendum to my EJ22 Strange Start Problem debug, I had an issue finding correct and quality parts; perhaps someone has comments on the following?
I bought 2 new fuel pressure regulators (Herko and Beck Arnley brands) - I couldn't find any genuine Subaru units from any of the Subaru parts dealers. Both were supposedly correct for the 1994?Legacy EJ22 that my engine started life as? NOT! Both turned out to be 3.0 Bar (43 psi) units and measured fuel pressure (at Idle) was markedly higher than the original.? Research on this led me to see (in Haynes) that there are different specs for the non-turbo EJ22 ?(2.5 Bar = 36 psi) and turbo EJ22 (3.0 Bar = 43 psi) However all the online?parts listings I can find claim their units work across both engines; obviously incorrect.
I put the old Subaru original back in (it's marked as JECs A44-000R55) to recover the lower pressure
....Any ideas on where to get a 'correct' 2.5 Bar unit from? (Subaru parts dealers have a part # 22670AA050 but they list this for both non-turbo and turbo cars...). Also, how to be sure they really are 2.5 Bar units before installing and?measuring them?
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EJ22 OBD-1: Strange Start Problem (Pt 4 - the finale)
FINALLY - I think I have figured it out....
A long post but I thought some of you might wish to read...
Background:
1987 Westfalia w/ 1994 OBD-1 EJ22/25 Frankenmotor w/?starting?issue;
- Normally the engine?starts?right up (just a few seconds of cranking)
- A few times now it has taken a long time?or wouldn't fire up at all
- Still cranked perfectly?normally (high torque starter running fast)
- Also, occasionally, when I turned the key to the 'Run' position and didn't go straight to 'Start', the CEL flashed On and Off repeatedly plus I heard the fuel pump relay clicking in the back
Latest update and final (I hope) diagnosis/fix:
- Main fuse to the ECU was burned.
- There is a 20A fuse in a dustproof?fuse holder feeding the ECU; in my van this is next to the ECU under the seat (some folks seem to put the two relays in the black terminal box in the engine compartment?) - From outside all looked good; the top of the fuse also looked good (I checked this early on in my search) - HOWEVER, inside, the fuse body and contacts were melted/blackened (the fuse hadn't blown it was just making a bad connection; I suspect it had come loose at some point) - enough extra resistance to drop the supply to the ECU and that in turn caused the fuel pump relay to 'chatter' and drop out. No fuel pressure at START = No Engine Start. - Replacing the fuse holder and fuse with a 'MAXI' version (more metal contact area) gives me NORMAL Starting/Running once more - At LAST!
How did I find this: I tried using a DVM and LED bulbs to probe power and signals around the ECU, relays, ignition switch etc. but I only really identified it using my oscilloscope; it was so transient and hard to find.
One?blind alley I took;
(1). fuel pressure collapsing rapidly after the fuel pump turned off (I powered the fuel pump direct and tee-d in a fuel pressure gauge)? - it's supposed to remain?above 30 psi after 15 minutes: indicated to me a fuel leak/delivery issue. No hose leaks apparent
- I changed the fuel pump & filter - NO impact
- SO I thought this must be the fuel pressure regulator or leaky injectors; took them out, replaced them all. NO impact?
- Back to the fuel pump: 2nd replacement was good; now I got solid fuel pressure?(although incorrect - see my following post)
==> Two bad fuel pumps!! All part of my?luck!
(2). Other things I changed (unnecessarily as it seems...) - new fuel pump and ignition relays- new ignition switch - swapped out the?ECU - added a new major ground strap chassis to engine (previously?heavy duty cables battery to engine). Main battery voltage?~12.2V (and the engine cranked just fine)
FINALLY - a < $1 part seems to have failed (and I spent ~$600 on new parts and many hours to figure it out...)
Thanks for suggestions as I worked through this; hopefully my van is good again
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
Yesterday I installed the RMW throttle cable that for some unknown reason I thought would be difficult to do but it was pretty straightforward. ?I also cut out the portion of the firewall in order to use the RMW kit. ?It was noisy as hell using snips, a grinder, and dremel to clean up the sharp edges. ?Because I’m waiting on the heater hose from Gowesty, I’m kinda stuck.
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I decided not to use the RMW fuel tank send in unit and instead continue to use my original. ?However, RMW is going to allow me to return it but they charge either a 10 percent restocking fee if you take a store credit or a 15 percent restocking fee if you want a refund. ?It seems that after spending thousands and thousands of dollars with them that they would be a tiny bit more accommodating on a return of an unused item. ?I guess business is business.
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Being a bit frustrated with RMW and also at a standstill on my conversion, I decided to shake it off by driving my 1970 Westy (Tumbleweed) for a bit. It’s always good to have outlets and driving this one makes me smile. ?Apologies for the non-subaruvanagon content!
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
Today I disconnected my heaters hoses at the front of the bus, taking an antifreeze shower in the process. ?I ordered new heater hose from gowesty (25 feet) and I plan to route it through the large opening above the fuel tank. ?That will make it easier to get the stainless coolant pipes through the smaller opening on the passenger side of the bus. ?Those pipes, together with heater hoses, is a bit too tight for my liking, so I’m going to plan B (longer hoses but above the fuel tank). ?We’ll see how that works out.
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I also removed the coolant overflow tank and gave it a good cleaning. ?As I removed the power steering reservoir one of the retaining clips broke off, so I found an OEM replacement from Vanagain. ?
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I was also able to get new rubber boots on the shift mechanism on the transmission . ?I’m finding piddly things to do because until I get heater hoses installed I cannot install the stainless coolant pipes, and until I get the stainless coolant pipes installed I cannot install the fuel tank, etc. ?
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Patience is a virtue. ?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
I read on the samba where someone had relocated the heater hoses to the tunnel at the center of the fuel tank. Have any of you done that? ?It sure would free up some space in the opening where the coolant pipes go.?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
That’s good to know. I’ll pick one of those up before I start on the rear hanger.?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
FWIW, use a "dimpler" from HF (< $ 5) to create a starting point for your drill bit: it is spring-loaded, you put the point? where you want to start the bit, push and when it reaches the threshold it releases, leaving a dimple where the point was.
On Thursday, March 20, 2025 at 02:19:57 PM CDT, SubieVanagon via groups.io <wklail@...> wrote:
I’m making a pipe hanger to which I can affix a stainless steel zip tie. ?I’ll drill a hole in the bit of steel where the straps normally go, then I’ll use a bolt with a smooth portion near the head and reverse a nut on one side of the metal and a nut and washer on the opposite side.
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The hole is not centered exactly as it is a tight space and the drill bit wandered around quite a bit before I finally got a hole drilled. ?I tried to start with a smaller bit to drill a pilot hole but the bit was too short and would not reach the cross member. ?I believe that when I reconnect the hoses and get this rigged up it might just be a solution. ?I will likely use two stainless zip ties instead of one.
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
I’m making a pipe hanger to which I can affix a stainless steel zip tie. ?I’ll drill a hole in the bit of steel where the straps normally go, then I’ll use a bolt with a smooth portion near the head and reverse a nut on one side of the metal and a nut and washer on the opposite side.
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The hole is not centered exactly as it is a tight space and the drill bit wandered around quite a bit before I finally got a hole drilled. ?I tried to start with a smaller bit to drill a pilot hole but the bit was too short and would not reach the cross member. ?I believe that when I reconnect the hoses and get this rigged up it might just be a solution. ?I will likely use two stainless zip ties instead of one.
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
Thanks, Wayne. I see from that thread that I am not alone with my RMW coolant pipe issues. I will purchase some stainless steel zip ties and give it a go. But as was mentioned that samba thread, I will wait to tighten all my clamps until the fuel tank is reinstalled to verify that there are no shift rod issues. ?What a pain.?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
Zipties. Plus this: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=658081&highlight=stainless+steel+coolant+line+hangers
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
I got those hoses attached to the stainless pipes the way RMW shows. ?But getting the metal spring clip back on has proven to be impossible (after many attempts). ?So I am going to get some stainless strapping material and create something that will work. ?One would think that of all the companies that offer these stainless pipes, someone would think to design replacement spring clips (or some alternative) to hold the pipes in place. ?
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The cross over. ?The upper radiator hose attaches to the inside pipe while the lower hose goes to the outside pipe. ?
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Getting this clip back on, even after straightening it considerably, was is impossible for me. ?There has to be a better way. ?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
I spoke with Mike at RMW this morning. ?Those front radiator hoses in fact cross over one another. ?The upper straight hose connects to the inner stainless pipe, whereas the lower hook-shaped radiator hose crosses over to the outside (passenger side) pipe. This is because the thermostat on the 2.1 was on the driver’s side, but the thermostat on the Subie engine is on the passenger side, hence the need to cross over. ?That had me puzzled for sure. ? I will post photos after I get them back on. ?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
Subaru coolant manifold out goes to rad in (horizontal). Rad out (down and out) goes to thermostat housing.
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
I have a question about the RMW stainless coolant pipes (I’ll call them tomorrow, but for now any advice would be helpful). ?Their directions show that what they call the bleeder hose (I’m assuming the lower radiator hose) connects to the outer (passenger side) stainless pipe. ?Is this correct? ?If so, the inner bleeder hose and the passenger side return hose have to cross over one another. ?I must be missing something here. ?If you look at the photos, it appears the dirty brown hose in Figure 7 is attached to the outside (passenger side) pipe and the dark (new) upper radiator hose is connected to the inside pipe. ?They have to cross over in order to do this, which does not make sense to me. ?I must be getting something confused here. ?
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89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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Re: Warren’s Conversion - Turning the Corner
Totally agree it’s so nice to get stuff out of boxes on to the van?
Nice work?
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On Sun, Mar 16, 2025 at 10:23?AM SubieVanagon via groups.io <wklail@...> wrote:
So I finally got the two new radiator hoses installed and I was able to use the original spring clamps instead of the supplied screw clamps, but one was a bit difficult to get on, even using the special clamp pliers I purchased for the job. ?
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The radiator mount is back in place and I hope I’m done with that.
What’s important for me now is that I am actually installing parts instead of taking things off, so that’s turning a corner in my book. ?Although I still have a few things to remove in the engine area and need to install new boots on the shift lever at the transmission, I’m putting it back together, piece by piece, component by component. ?
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Warren
89 Westy?
88 Tintop
70 Westy
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