开云体育

Hi Michael,
What aftermarket cruise control unit are you installing?
Thanks
Craig

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Michael" <hop2itinaz@> wrote:

Hello,

I am in the process of installing an aftermarket cruise control into my Westy with a 92 2.2 ej22. I am going to work the signal to the unit via a coil pulse but am wondering where this signal should come from. Can anyone shed some light on this matter for me?

Thanks in advance.

Michael
86 westy/2.2 Suby/Bells and Whistles

Anyone?

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "corey_deahl"
<corey.deahl@...> wrote:

Wondering if they are the same between the ej22 and the eg33.

Thanks,

Corey

Hello,

I am in the process of installing an aftermarket cruise control into my Westy with a 92 2.2 ej22. I am going to work the signal to the unit via a coil pulse but am wondering where this signal should come from. Can anyone shed some light on this matter for me?

Thanks in advance.

Michael
86 westy/2.2 Suby/Bells and Whistles

Anyone?

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "corey_deahl" <corey.deahl@...> wrote:

Wondering if they are the same between the ej22 and the eg33.

Thanks,

Anyone?

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "corey_deahl" <corey.deahl@> wrote:

Wondering if they are the same between the ej22 and the eg33.

Thanks,

Corey

Wondering if they are the same between the ej22 and the eg33.

Thanks,

Corey

I am looking for an answer from the "odd facts known by few" subgroup.
Just replaced both head gaskets (and water pump) on a used EJ22
engine. The engine is still on a stand in the garage. On a whim I
decided to check the compression in each cylinder while turning the
engine over by hand (20 revolutions of the main pulley). I wasn't
expecting much, there's no oil in the engine, but what I found
surprised me. Cylinders 3 and 4 (cylinders on each side closest to the
front of the van) gave consistent 30 psi readings while cylinders 1
and 2 (the cylinders on each side closest to the rear of the van) did
have compression but not enough to give me a number. My gauge has a
black bar, then a white space, then the first number is 30 psi. The
needle barely moved into the black bar area for cylinders 1 and 2, so
I would guess less than 10 psi. It was enough pressure that I could
press the release button on the gauge and the needle would move back
to 0 and I could hear a hiss. I did not do this test before pulling
the heads off, now I wish I had as this it is this type of data that
will dominate my thoughts on the long lonely roads between here and my
destinations. Any thoughts?

Hi,

My friend's Cali-legal EJ22 (90 to 94)is burning lots of oil and he thinks he needs a new engine. (Compression is ok, btw.) This is a Buslab supplied engine that leaked like a sieve when he got it. He paid my local mechanic almost a grand to reseal the motor and now it seems to be dying a smokey death.... maybe 25k miles since he had the conversion done. I think it's a 1990.

I've suggested CCR for a rebuild. I also suggested he contact John Lemley.

He called somebody about a JDM (he's local to Sacto) and was told "not available".

Any other good options out there? I've searched craigslist in most west coast cities, ebay, etc with little good leads.


Thanks,

Tom

Yeah, I just tried again tonight. I finally got the exhaust header to
fit. Ended up using the engine hoist and a couple of straps to stretch
it out on the crossover side with the open end secured with the rod it
ships with. Then I was able to get the very tips of a couple of the
bolts through the holes, then used a mallet to bang the rest on. At
that point I had quit caring about damaging the threads of the bolts.
I got it banged on enough to get the nuts started. And finally after
much ado, SUCCESS!!!

So, thanks for the advice everyone. I am close to starting this beast!

I definitely believe they warped and misshaped after they were allowed
to cool.

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, <wic@...> wrote:

Hi,
I had the very same problem about 3 years ago. As much as I tried I

could

not get the on. I noticed that they were about 1 inch closer together on
the far end then from the crossover end so I put them on a vise and
carefully pulled until I got the desired length.
They were still hard to get on but I was able to do it. I think when

they

were made they were not allowed to cool and may had actually warped.
The headers did not last very long and I have since had a shop do a

customer

setup for me.

_____

From: subaruvanagon@...

<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>]

On Behalf Of Christopher
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 9:02 PM
To: subaruvanagon@...

<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [subaruvanagon] Small Car SVX Stainless Header won't fit.




So, I ordered pretty much all of my conversion parts from Small Car
Performance, including the stainless header. The header looks very

nice and

shiny. The only problem is I can't seem to get it to fit. The bolt

holes on

the header closest to the crossover pipe are too close together and no
matter how hard I torque on it I can't get it on. I called Small Car and
sent it back so they can repair or replace it. He calls me when he

receives

it and claims he is able to get it on a spare SVX motor they had lying
around by himself!!! So, I figure "Hey I must be just a little wuss

and need

to try harder!"

Ok, so he sends it back to me. Same deal, no good; I am trying

everything,

put one side on then the other, front then back, even using my feet

against

the transmission and pulling... NOTHING! I then stop, go inside and

using a

ruler and camera, take meticulous measurements of the header bolt hole
spacing, a bunch of pics send an email back to Small Car, asking him

if the

measurements I sent are withing specified parameters? He calls me

back and

says "There was a bad batch, and checked another one he had on the

shelf."

Then he says "I'll send you our display model. It has a dent but it

should

fit." I tell him that is fine, as long as it fits, I don't care

about the

dent. It gets here and I try for an hour and a half to get that

thing on,

but the same thing happens, the bolt holes on the header on the

forward side

(near the cross pipe) are too close!

The measurements of the exhaust header bolt holes center to center

from Van

front to Van rear are:

21 7/8 inches
16 7/8 inches
22 inches
17 inches
22 1/4 inches

The rear bolt holes line up fine (22 1/4) it is the rear bolt holes that
seem to be too close together (21 7/8)

I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around
with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that
only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder

heads are

fine (ie. not warped or misshaped).

So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor

that

would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the

first,

manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I

just happen

to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion?

I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having

them try to

put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish

up the

wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I

am very

frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice

on this

header issue.

Thanks,

Chris

Hi,
I had the very same problem about 3 years ago. As much as I tried I could
not get the on. I noticed that they were about 1 inch closer together on
the far end then from the crossover end so I put them on a vise and
carefully pulled until I got the desired length.
They were still hard to get on but I was able to do it. I think when they
were made they were not allowed to cool and may had actually warped.
The headers did not last very long and I have since had a shop do a customer
setup for me.

_____

From: subaruvanagon@... [mailto:subaruvanagon@...]
On Behalf Of Christopher
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 9:02 PM
To: subaruvanagon@...
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Small Car SVX Stainless Header won't fit.




So, I ordered pretty much all of my conversion parts from Small Car
Performance, including the stainless header. The header looks very nice and
shiny. The only problem is I can't seem to get it to fit. The bolt holes on
the header closest to the crossover pipe are too close together and no
matter how hard I torque on it I can't get it on. I called Small Car and
sent it back so they can repair or replace it. He calls me when he receives
it and claims he is able to get it on a spare SVX motor they had lying
around by himself!!! So, I figure "Hey I must be just a little wuss and need
to try harder!"

Ok, so he sends it back to me. Same deal, no good; I am trying everything,
put one side on then the other, front then back, even using my feet against
the transmission and pulling... NOTHING! I then stop, go inside and using a
ruler and camera, take meticulous measurements of the header bolt hole
spacing, a bunch of pics send an email back to Small Car, asking him if the
measurements I sent are withing specified parameters? He calls me back and
says "There was a bad batch, and checked another one he had on the shelf."
Then he says "I'll send you our display model. It has a dent but it should
fit." I tell him that is fine, as long as it fits, I don't care about the
dent. It gets here and I try for an hour and a half to get that thing on,
but the same thing happens, the bolt holes on the header on the forward side
(near the cross pipe) are too close!

The measurements of the exhaust header bolt holes center to center from Van
front to Van rear are:

21 7/8 inches
16 7/8 inches
22 inches
17 inches
22 1/4 inches

The rear bolt holes line up fine (22 1/4) it is the rear bolt holes that
seem to be too close together (21 7/8)

I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around
with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that
only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder heads are
fine (ie. not warped or misshaped).

So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor that
would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the first,
manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I just happen
to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion?

I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having them try to
put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish up the
wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I am very
frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice on this
header issue.

Thanks,

Chris

Maybe they revised it for 07-who knows. I just know it worked for me and it
has made all the difference. I'm only in my second day with the new ECU and
it is still optimizing but it is so much easier to drive. Having more
control of the throttle has made it easier to feather the clutch and I may
not have to change the clutch cylinder to a smaller diameter, as I was
planning to. It is much easier to hold a speed on the hyway also without so
much concentration.



The AT ECU would be at full throttle at about 3/4 gas pedal and push to the
floor would give no more power. Is yours like that?



With this MT ECU full throttle gives full throttle-and it seems to be giving
me a little more power overall.