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Hi,

My friend's Cali-legal EJ22 (90 to 94)is burning lots of oil and he thinks he needs a new engine. (Compression is ok, btw.) This is a Buslab supplied engine that leaked like a sieve when he got it. He paid my local mechanic almost a grand to reseal the motor and now it seems to be dying a smokey death.... maybe 25k miles since he had the conversion done. I think it's a 1990.

I've suggested CCR for a rebuild. I also suggested he contact John Lemley.

He called somebody about a JDM (he's local to Sacto) and was told "not available".

Any other good options out there? I've searched craigslist in most west coast cities, ebay, etc with little good leads.


Thanks,

Tom

Yeah, I just tried again tonight. I finally got the exhaust header to
fit. Ended up using the engine hoist and a couple of straps to stretch
it out on the crossover side with the open end secured with the rod it
ships with. Then I was able to get the very tips of a couple of the
bolts through the holes, then used a mallet to bang the rest on. At
that point I had quit caring about damaging the threads of the bolts.
I got it banged on enough to get the nuts started. And finally after
much ado, SUCCESS!!!

So, thanks for the advice everyone. I am close to starting this beast!

I definitely believe they warped and misshaped after they were allowed
to cool.

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, <wic@...> wrote:

Hi,
I had the very same problem about 3 years ago. As much as I tried I

could

not get the on. I noticed that they were about 1 inch closer together on
the far end then from the crossover end so I put them on a vise and
carefully pulled until I got the desired length.
They were still hard to get on but I was able to do it. I think when

they

were made they were not allowed to cool and may had actually warped.
The headers did not last very long and I have since had a shop do a

customer

setup for me.

_____

From: subaruvanagon@...

<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>]

On Behalf Of Christopher
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 9:02 PM
To: subaruvanagon@...

<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [subaruvanagon] Small Car SVX Stainless Header won't fit.




So, I ordered pretty much all of my conversion parts from Small Car
Performance, including the stainless header. The header looks very

nice and

shiny. The only problem is I can't seem to get it to fit. The bolt

holes on

the header closest to the crossover pipe are too close together and no
matter how hard I torque on it I can't get it on. I called Small Car and
sent it back so they can repair or replace it. He calls me when he

receives

it and claims he is able to get it on a spare SVX motor they had lying
around by himself!!! So, I figure "Hey I must be just a little wuss

and need

to try harder!"

Ok, so he sends it back to me. Same deal, no good; I am trying

everything,

put one side on then the other, front then back, even using my feet

against

the transmission and pulling... NOTHING! I then stop, go inside and

using a

ruler and camera, take meticulous measurements of the header bolt hole
spacing, a bunch of pics send an email back to Small Car, asking him

if the

measurements I sent are withing specified parameters? He calls me

back and

says "There was a bad batch, and checked another one he had on the

shelf."

Then he says "I'll send you our display model. It has a dent but it

should

fit." I tell him that is fine, as long as it fits, I don't care

about the

dent. It gets here and I try for an hour and a half to get that

thing on,

but the same thing happens, the bolt holes on the header on the

forward side

(near the cross pipe) are too close!

The measurements of the exhaust header bolt holes center to center

from Van

front to Van rear are:

21 7/8 inches
16 7/8 inches
22 inches
17 inches
22 1/4 inches

The rear bolt holes line up fine (22 1/4) it is the rear bolt holes that
seem to be too close together (21 7/8)

I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around
with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that
only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder

heads are

fine (ie. not warped or misshaped).

So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor

that

would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the

first,

manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I

just happen

to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion?

I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having

them try to

put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish

up the

wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I

am very

frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice

on this

header issue.

Thanks,

Chris

Hi,
I had the very same problem about 3 years ago. As much as I tried I could
not get the on. I noticed that they were about 1 inch closer together on
the far end then from the crossover end so I put them on a vise and
carefully pulled until I got the desired length.
They were still hard to get on but I was able to do it. I think when they
were made they were not allowed to cool and may had actually warped.
The headers did not last very long and I have since had a shop do a customer
setup for me.

_____

From: subaruvanagon@... [mailto:subaruvanagon@...]
On Behalf Of Christopher
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 9:02 PM
To: subaruvanagon@...
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Small Car SVX Stainless Header won't fit.




So, I ordered pretty much all of my conversion parts from Small Car
Performance, including the stainless header. The header looks very nice and
shiny. The only problem is I can't seem to get it to fit. The bolt holes on
the header closest to the crossover pipe are too close together and no
matter how hard I torque on it I can't get it on. I called Small Car and
sent it back so they can repair or replace it. He calls me when he receives
it and claims he is able to get it on a spare SVX motor they had lying
around by himself!!! So, I figure "Hey I must be just a little wuss and need
to try harder!"

Ok, so he sends it back to me. Same deal, no good; I am trying everything,
put one side on then the other, front then back, even using my feet against
the transmission and pulling... NOTHING! I then stop, go inside and using a
ruler and camera, take meticulous measurements of the header bolt hole
spacing, a bunch of pics send an email back to Small Car, asking him if the
measurements I sent are withing specified parameters? He calls me back and
says "There was a bad batch, and checked another one he had on the shelf."
Then he says "I'll send you our display model. It has a dent but it should
fit." I tell him that is fine, as long as it fits, I don't care about the
dent. It gets here and I try for an hour and a half to get that thing on,
but the same thing happens, the bolt holes on the header on the forward side
(near the cross pipe) are too close!

The measurements of the exhaust header bolt holes center to center from Van
front to Van rear are:

21 7/8 inches
16 7/8 inches
22 inches
17 inches
22 1/4 inches

The rear bolt holes line up fine (22 1/4) it is the rear bolt holes that
seem to be too close together (21 7/8)

I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around
with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that
only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder heads are
fine (ie. not warped or misshaped).

So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor that
would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the first,
manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I just happen
to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion?

I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having them try to
put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish up the
wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I am very
frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice on this
header issue.

Thanks,

Chris

Maybe they revised it for 07-who knows. I just know it worked for me and it
has made all the difference. I'm only in my second day with the new ECU and
it is still optimizing but it is so much easier to drive. Having more
control of the throttle has made it easier to feather the clutch and I may
not have to change the clutch cylinder to a smaller diameter, as I was
planning to. It is much easier to hold a speed on the hyway also without so
much concentration.



The AT ECU would be at full throttle at about 3/4 gas pedal and push to the
floor would give no more power. Is yours like that?



With this MT ECU full throttle gives full throttle-and it seems to be giving
me a little more power overall.

Chris:
We had a similar experience with 3.3 headers. First set was way off. We exchanged that set for a second set which were also off but closer than the first set. It took a bit of wrangling but they were finally mated. It has been a couple of years and the van has been used sparingly but so far they have not cracked. Others have reported similar experiences with poor fit.
Craig

--- On Mon, 3/19/12, Robert Stevens <mtbiker62@...> wrote:

From: Robert Stevens <mtbiker62@...>
Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] Small Car SVX Stainless Header won't fit.
To: subaruvanagon@...
Date: Monday, March 19, 2012, 11:44 PM
















??











On Mar 19, 2012, at 10:02 PM, Christopher wrote:

I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder heads are fine (ie. not warped or misshaped).

So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor that would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the first, manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I just happen to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion?

I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having them try to put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish up the wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I am very frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice on this header issue.

Thanks,

Chris

My suggestion is to get a refund from Small Car on the header that doesn't fit, that you've already paid for.

Then, as you have said, take your van to a shop that can make a complete header that the exhaust system

you have will bolt up to. Have them make it out of mild steel, then have that ceramic coated. Be sure to

know that there are fabricators that have been making headers out of a lot of materials, on the internet,

that can make a header for you.



I'd suggest avoiding stainless. The really good SS (I think it's called 321) is VERY expensive and not

a lot more durable than mild steel with the ceramic coating.



An example of one of the online vendors finished product:







I'd suggest talking with them about them or another vendor they recommend, making this same unit

out of mild steel if they can/will. My experience with SS headers on both Subaru 2.2 and 3.0 is that they eventually

crack in several places.



Just my $0.02



Bob



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I pulled my EG33 out of a perfectly good running SVX that I drove around with no smoking, overheating, or any other problems with the engine that only had 100k miles, so I am pretty sure the block and cylinder heads are fine (ie. not warped or misshaped).

So, my question is this. Is there something different about my motor that would cause both of these headers to not fit?? My SVX was one of the first, manufactured in early 1991. Is it different in any way? or did I just happen to get TWO headers that don't fit in the SAME fashion?

I am thinking about towing it down to an exhaust shop and having them try to put it on. All I have left to do before my first startup is finish up the wiring, install the charcoal canister and put the DAMN EXHAUST on! I am very frustrated right now! #$%* If anyone can help, I really need advice on this header issue.

Thanks,

Chris

Thanks Tom. I will put all the info in one place-a good idea.



The engine and 5 spd were installed by SC so I don't have all of the info,
but here is what I have.



Engine-2009 EJ25

Model-Impreza.

Model of donor vehicle-- The engine is 09 Impreza, but don't know exact
model. The ECU that was installed is listed as an 07 Imprezza Outback AT
using a 09 harness.

ECU PN from donor AT vehicle--22611AM450 07 Impreza Outback AT

ECU PN from MT vehicle, replacement that solved the problems--22611AM440 07
Impreza Outback MT

Hello,
Thanks to everyone's advice so far. I will try and be more specific
about the problems I am experiencing so that it may aide in the diagnosis.

My van has sat out the winter because we get a lot of snow and the
heaters are mediocre. As it began to warm up and the roads cleared up
I started to go through it for a trip I had planned for Spring Break.
I drove it about 6 miles from my house and I noticed how the back
heater was working but the front was not. So I drove it another 6
miles and noticed that the Temp Gauge had not moved and I was still
not getting any heat in the front. When I got home I parked the van
and turned the engine off then suddenly the coolant system began
sucking fluid and I could hear the air being sucked in through the
rear heater core. When the van had cooled it was low on fluid so I
burped it "The Messy Way" pouring in coolant while holding the idle up
as the van sits at a incline so the engine was above the radiator.
When there seemed to be no more air coming out the radiator bleeder
and the van was not taking any more coolant I parked the van and let
it cool. (still the Temp Gauge never moved) I then came out to the van
pouring coolant out the sliding door and when I opened the door
noticed the coolant was running under my floor and I traced it back to
the rear heater core, I closed it to bleed the system but the valve
had failed. I replaced the Heater core and the valve and re-bled the
system. I then drove it about 5 miles again and became worried that
the temp gauge had still not moved so I pulled over and began feeling
the system and noticed that the coolant pipes running to the manifold
from the reservoir were hot but the thermostat pipe was cool and the
radiator to and return pipes were cool. I decided to remove the
thermostat and fill the system then drove home. This seemed to make no
difference. I decided that there had to be a air pocket causing a
vacuum within the system so I built a "Libby Bong" and proceeded to
burp the system again. I got some air out of the system but nothing
significant. I talked to my mechanic and he suggeste d I bring it to
him so he could empty the lines then put a vacuum on the lines then
add coolant to insure there was no air. He did this and it seemed to
work the radiator began to get warm but the temp gauge was still not
working and our thought was that the sensor is not working because it
is surrounded by air?
Is the sensor easy to replace or do I have to remove the intake manifold?

Van history:
The van had the head gaskets water pump and timing belt replaced two
years ago.
Drove 3000 miles during road trip
I had a total gas tank failure.
Van sat for a year
Drove 300 miles
Van sat out the winter
Current day

Thank you for any and all advice
Nick

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, Leon Korkin <korkwood@...>
wrote:

System bleeds itself automatically, always
it's designed this way
I was driving on dirt road in Baja recently, 6 miles from hiway and red
light started flashing.
Vanagon left trail of coolant behind, my return hose came off plastic
pipe(no barb, 2 clamp "solution")
and spilled most of coolant.Had plenty of water in container. It took
several refills but i just drove Vanagon untill it had enough

coolant in

tank
No "bleeding" and no problem
Leon

On 3/18/2012 4:42 PM, Kent or Jackie Ashton wrote:

You probably just need to bleed the system properly. A "Libby

Bong" is

one of the easiest ways I've seen.


With the bong filled, I believe the engine must be run up a little
(around 2000 RPM) to force the bubbles through the system. Works

for me.

-Kent

On Mar 18, 2012, at 11:56 AM, Francine wrote:

Hi,
I am returning to the forum and I was hoping to get some help. My

van is a 85 and has a ej22 2.2 and I had my rear seat heater core

fail

and around this time I got a air pocket in my van. I have been unable
to get the air out of the lines and think I have a bubble near the
engine temp. sensor in the manifold. My fill tank is on the right

side

of the engine. I have noticed that Small Car reverses the manifold

and

I was wondering if this is the best fix or if there is something I

can

do short term so I can drive the van before committing to rebuild my
coolant system.

Thanks
Nick



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