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Re: Selling my old 2.1

 

craigslist, ebay, thesamba.com, local newspaper ad.

If the harness was not hacked on removal, and depending on condition,
old 1.9's and 2.1's can bring somewhere around 500-1000. Of course it
all depends on how badly you want to get rid of it and how badly your
buyer wants it.
i make a habit of hanging on to the old engine until i'm done with the
conversion project just to ensure that i've not forgotten to borrow
any fittings or connections that might help me with the conversion.

all the best,
brent


--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/


Selling my old 2.1

 

Has anyone had any luck selling their old VW 2.1 L and how?


Re: Crank Pulley Torque

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

That's a great suggestion on marking it ..so you can see at a glance if
it's moved.

I use 'a little' lock-tite on them.
I have taken apart thousands of things I lock-tited..
I've never found it to be that permanent at all really.

and it is underdesigned some on the subaru.
the pulley only goes down over the crank a short way. like a quarter
inch or so ..
not that good.
On the waterboxer engine it's about and inch and an eighth or so ..it
really is down over the end of the crank,
not stuck on the end of it .

On 3/30/2012 7:44 PM, realflighter2 wrote:

The ONLY problem I have had with my Subaru installation is this bolt
coming loose. When it does, the pulley does a number on the woodruff
key and slot in the tip of the crankshaft that aligns the pulley and
timing sprocket, and the timing sprocket (which normally justs slips
on) is nearly impossible to remove. So lesson learned. Torque the piss
out of it (...or factory recommended setting, whichever comes first),
a dab of locktite (obviously not the permanent type) and then I index
marked the bolt and pulley with a yellow paint pencil line (like they
use to mark parts at the junk yard). You can see the pulley and bolt
from the rear license plate door, and every so often I will look in to
make sure the bolt has not loosened.

Gary Trovinger
1987 Syncro Westfalia SP (subaru powered)

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:

Thanks,
I planned on using the higher torque value. Just did the timing belt
on my wife's 04 Impreza and the torque value was 130 ft lbs. in the
Haynes manual. I also remember reading a discussion on the torque
values and how it is listed to low in manuals. Is the lock tight,
medium strength, not needed? I figure it wouldn't hurt since I don't
plan on taking the crank pulley off for a while and definitely don't
want it coming off during operation.

Thanks for all the info,
Matt

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "Tom Shiels" <tom@> wrote:

Matt,
The earlier Subaru specification for the torque (69 to 76 ft
lbs)was far too low - the later manuals call for 120 ft lbs. I always
use 120 ft lbs and never use lock tight at that torque.

The lower torque value often resulted in loose crank pulley and
damage to the crank shaft. Be sure to use the higher torque as Leon
suggested.

Tom
Burlington ON


--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "Matt" <mattsewalson@> wrote:

Then my plan is to get a new crank pulley bolt and maybe a
little lock tight.


Re: Crank Pulley Torque

realflighter2
 

The ONLY problem I have had with my Subaru installation is this bolt coming loose. When it does, the pulley does a number on the woodruff key and slot in the tip of the crankshaft that aligns the pulley and timing sprocket, and the timing sprocket (which normally justs slips on) is nearly impossible to remove. So lesson learned. Torque the piss out of it (¡­or factory recommended setting, whichever comes first), a dab of locktite (obviously not the permanent type) and then I index marked the bolt and pulley with a yellow paint pencil line (like they use to mark parts at the junk yard). You can see the pulley and bolt from the rear license plate door, and every so often I will look in to make sure the bolt has not loosened.

Gary Trovinger
1987 Syncro Westfalia SP (subaru powered)

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:

Thanks,
I planned on using the higher torque value. Just did the timing belt on my wife's 04 Impreza and the torque value was 130 ft lbs. in the Haynes manual. I also remember reading a discussion on the torque values and how it is listed to low in manuals. Is the lock tight, medium strength, not needed? I figure it wouldn't hurt since I don't plan on taking the crank pulley off for a while and definitely don't want it coming off during operation.

Thanks for all the info,
Matt

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Tom Shiels" <tom@> wrote:

Matt,
The earlier Subaru specification for the torque (69 to 76 ft lbs)was far too low - the later manuals call for 120 ft lbs. I always use 120 ft lbs and never use lock tight at that torque.

The lower torque value often resulted in loose crank pulley and damage to the crank shaft. Be sure to use the higher torque as Leon suggested.

Tom
Burlington ON


--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@> wrote:

Then my plan is to get a new crank pulley bolt and maybe a little lock tight.


Re: where should i buy my used engine in the Denver Area

 

Terry, there is a place up there also you can call is RetroRoo. He is really familiar with the vanagon conversions. He used to have a westy.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Terry" <gannont15@...> wrote:

Hey there,

i'm starting to price out a ej25 for my Syncro Westy. I live in the denver area and found a guy (salvage yard i think) on CL selling one w 112K miles for 1400$. price includes the ECU.

any thoughts suggesiton on the that price? recommendations? i have a motor that threw a rod so i'm debating on finding a long block and swappin it all out. there are rebuilds in the area for 1800$ but i am fairly new to these conversions so i thought i throw it out there for suggestions.

thanks


SVX Syncro

bllconverse
 

Hi,
It looks like I'll need to get a good or rebuilt power steering pump for an SVX.
Does anyone have one available?
Thank you,
BILL


Re: EJ 22 Vanagon conversion - Caliornia BAR sticker FYI

paul_reif
 

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Joe" <dr.jobs@...> wrote:

Do you know if the donor has to be a manual car ifthe vanagon is manual, or can you use an automatic car?

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "paul_reif" <paulm78@> wrote:

I know some members of this group have difficulties in California obtaining Bureau of Automotive Repair Stickers (Bar Stickers) if they did not use the Kennedy Kit that is in compliance with Kennedy Executive order. My 87 4 speed Westy was converted by a member of this group using a 1994 stock JDM EJ 22 OBD I engine and components from several different suppliers( Small Car, Outfront Motorsports, Walker Muffler and MagnaFlow Cat ) I had no difficulty getting a Bar Sticker through the smog referee in Alameda. Air intake box is stock from the Legacy donor car and harness from 92-94 domestic Legacy. Hopefully some members in the Bay area can consider this route if they choose to but certainly there are no guarantees implied
I Have JDM engine and ECU from 91 Automatic donor car in manual Vanagon Runs fine no issues with CARB


Re: Crank Pulley Torque

 

Thanks,
I planned on using the higher torque value. Just did the timing belt on my wife's 04 Impreza and the torque value was 130 ft lbs. in the Haynes manual. I also remember reading a discussion on the torque values and how it is listed to low in manuals. Is the lock tight, medium strength, not needed? I figure it wouldn't hurt since I don't plan on taking the crank pulley off for a while and definitely don't want it coming off during operation.

Thanks for all the info,
Matt

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Tom Shiels" <tom@...> wrote:

Matt,
The earlier Subaru specification for the torque (69 to 76 ft lbs)was far too low - the later manuals call for 120 ft lbs. I always use 120 ft lbs and never use lock tight at that torque.

The lower torque value often resulted in loose crank pulley and damage to the crank shaft. Be sure to use the higher torque as Leon suggested.

Tom
Burlington ON


--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@> wrote:

Then my plan is to get a new crank pulley bolt and maybe a little lock tight.


Re: SVX $ question

corey_deahl
 

Forgot to mention the year of the motor is a '92.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "corey_deahl" <corey.deahl@...> wrote:

In the not-to-distant future, I'll have a RMW SVX package for sale with 145k on the motor.

How do y'all think I could sell it for?

And I want to thank you all for the help in figuring out how to get it going again. There's one more thing I need to do (waiting for parts.. ugh), but it should be on the road SOON!

I live in Maryland, and have become frustrated and annoyed at the lack of parts availability (a week to get parts-or more)and shops to work on it. Since I'm a novice mechanic, I feel more comfortable knowing I can take it somewhere if I get in over my head!

I bought the van with the conversion already done. I'm pretty set on downgrading the power for more reliability and less wait time for parts, since I like to actually DRIVE it.

Thanks,

C


SVX $ question

corey_deahl
 

In the not-to-distant future, I'll have a RMW SVX package for sale with 145k on the motor.

How do y'all think I could sell it for?

And I want to thank you all for the help in figuring out how to get it going again. There's one more thing I need to do (waiting for parts.. ugh), but it should be on the road SOON!

I live in Maryland, and have become frustrated and annoyed at the lack of parts availability (a week to get parts-or more)and shops to work on it. Since I'm a novice mechanic, I feel more comfortable knowing I can take it somewhere if I get in over my head!

I bought the van with the conversion already done. I'm pretty set on downgrading the power for more reliability and less wait time for parts, since I like to actually DRIVE it.

Thanks,

C


Re: Crank Pulley Torque

 

Matt,
The earlier Subaru specification for the torque (69 to 76 ft lbs)was far too low - the later manuals call for 120 ft lbs. I always use 120 ft lbs and never use lock tight at that torque.

The lower torque value often resulted in loose crank pulley and damage to the crank shaft. Be sure to use the higher torque as Leon suggested.

Tom
Burlington ON

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:

Then my plan is to get a new crank pulley bolt and maybe a little lock tight.


Re: Crank Pulley Torque

 

Then my plan is to get a new crank pulley bolt and maybe a little lock tight.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "iwalklongtime" <sensical@...> wrote:

Quite right - I forgot the vanagon wheel torque was so much higher than the cars (87 ft lbs)

I guess it's all up to what was being used to "loosen" the bolt and how much force was exerted.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Leon Korkin <korkwood@> wrote:

Crank pulley bolt torque according to repair manual was only 72 ftlbs. I
torque it to 120 ftlbs, making sure pulley stays put.
Lug bolts/nuts 125 ftlbs
Leon

On 3/28/2012 10:23 AM, iwalklongtime wrote:

Unless you're the incredible hulk using a 2 foot breaker bar - I
wouldn't sweat it. The Subaru torque spec is around 100ftlbs (I
believe) which is tighter than your lug / wheel nuts.

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "Matt" <mattsewalson@> wrote:

So here's the deal. I got my motor and getting ready to do the
timing belt, idlers, water pump and etc. While removing the crank
pulley bolt I had a huge brain fart and gave it a few 1/4 turns the
wrong way. Once I figured out I was being a dumb a$$ and started to
turn the wrench he right way it came out with no problems. At no point
did it feel like I stripped anything out and the threads on the crank
pulley bolt look fine. I'm just a little concerned about the crank
shaft and if this could have caused any major damage.

Sorry for not giving more info in my first post but I was in a hurry
this morning.

Thanks,
Matt

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "Matt" <mattsewalson@> wrote:

Can one over tighten the crank pulley bolt and if so what's the
worst case scenario?

Matt


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: EJ 22 Vanagon conversion - Caliornia BAR sticker FYI

Joe
 

Do you know if the donor has to be a manual car ifthe vanagon is manual, or can you use an automatic car?

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "paul_reif" <paulm78@...> wrote:

I know some members of this group have difficulties in California obtaining Bureau of Automotive Repair Stickers (Bar Stickers) if they did not use the Kennedy Kit that is in compliance with Kennedy Executive order. My 87 4 speed Westy was converted by a member of this group using a 1994 stock JDM EJ 22 OBD I engine and components from several different suppliers( Small Car, Outfront Motorsports, Walker Muffler and MagnaFlow Cat ) I had no difficulty getting a Bar Sticker through the smog referee in Alameda. Air intake box is stock from the Legacy donor car and harness from 92-94 domestic Legacy. Hopefully some members in the Bay area can consider this route if they choose to but certainly there are no guarantees implied


Re: First timer - RMW Kit and EJ22

westytrent
 

I'm doing the RMW kit as well. Actually I'm picking up the parts on saturday. I'm super excited! Wish I had some more information for you, but it has to feel good knowing others are in the same boat as you. I will be doing an aircooled conversion on a 81 westy. I'm a rookie at all of this, but mike seems like a great guy and your in the right hands. RMW makes some quality parts and they are easy to work with. I hope the conversion goes well for you and I'll be following this thread.


Re: First timer - RMW Kit and EJ22

 

Matt and Group----just had my westy syncro converted by Small Car Performance. I found a 2010 Impreza 2.5 with 20,000 miles in Spokane, and they installed it. Drove it home from Tacoma, WA to Helena, MT. 650 miles, 4 passes---- I passed cars going up all the passes, avg. 17 mpg, and power to spare. Have been a regular visitor to this group and have learned a lot, and appreciate all the valuable information members have to offer----thanks for that. The new adventure begins.

Michael Hiel
Gardenwwerks
On Mar 28, 2012, at 11:12 AM, "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:

I'm preparing to do my EJ22 conversion right now. Plan is to use RMW kit as well but going to have them do the wiring harness. I'm really interested in how smooth the conversion goes and feed back on their kit.

Matt

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "iwalklongtime" <sensical@...> wrote:

Hi guys,

I've heard about this group for a few years, but only just up and joined as a swap is imminent!

I've gone ahead and got the RMW kit as it seems really complete and pretty well made - I've dealt with them on some other stuff and met some people that had swaps done there as well and all good things to say...

Located a Motor, ECU and harness locally [Portland, OR] out of a 99 Legacy. (Not a donor car, I'm just getting these parts) I understand this is a phase 2 motor - anyone have any experience with one of these good bad or otherwise?

Am I missing anything major here? Seems like it's going to be reasonably straightforward. [Famous last words]

Cheers all!



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Re: Foreign Engines, Inc.

 

Not the same horsepower. Please see below for additional details.
Taken from the following file:

Engine Chart 1990-2001.xls

1990-94
Designation EJ20 NA EJ-22
# Cylinders 4 4
# Valves 8 8
Displacement 1994cc 2212cc
Power (hp) 118 130 @ 5600
Torque (ft.lbs.) 137 @ 4400
Cam SOHC SOHC
Compr Ratio 9.7:1 9.5:1
Bore (mm/in) 96.9 (3.81) 96.9 (3.81)
Stroke 75 (2.95) 75 (2.95)
Oil Press. @ RPM 43@5000 43@5000
Fuel Regular Regular
Diagnostics OBD-I OBD-I
Weight (kg) 120
Weight (lbs) 265

Adapter plates, exhaust headers (dual port), coolant piping, will all
adapt to the ej20 just like the do to the ej22. Just a bit less
power. I had one pushing my multivan around for awhile and found it
to be just a bit lacking when put to the task of pushing the van up
hills. ej22 was better, and ej25 was GREAT. But, there is a
sacrifice as you add displacement in terms of mpg.

all the best,
Brent

--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/


Re: SVX Muffler Options

 

Hi,
I custom built my system for my SVX Syncro (My SC fell apart). I used 2.5"
with the basic design of the SC system. Added 3 (yes, three) Magnaflow
mufflers (no cat); one 19" under the drivers side well, 90 to a 14" under
the license plate (centered) and 90 to a 14" with in/out on the passenger
side. Had to weld a bar from the passenger side mount to hold the 3rd
muffler.
Sounds great.
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: subaruvanagon@... [mailto:subaruvanagon@...]
On Behalf Of Eric Palmborg
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2012 2:24 PM
To: subaruvanagon@...
Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] SVX Muffler Options

Hi!

I have a home designed twin pipe exhaust system.
One "cat" on each side after the headers, a 180 degree turn, one 2" full
flow muffler on each side and then a cromed tail pipe.

/Eric

2012/3/28 Neil <furrylittleotter@...>

**


It appears I am on the verge of installing a stainless small car
header,probably going to add a stainless 2 1/4" catalytic convertor (a
small spun one), and I am curious what others have used for a muffler
in this application. I currently have a Magnaflow "Turbo" style
muffler and I would LOVE it if it were a heck of a lot quieter. I have
the smallcar engine mount, no rear apron ( I cut it off straight). I
am not opposed to modifying the smallcar exhaust hanger drastically if
needed which, I believe will give me a couple of inches.

I was behind a Chevy Envoy the other day and it had a nice fat muffler
on it. I'm thinking something like that, but I am not ENTIRELY opposed
to running a motor across the back of the van under the bumper if it
will mean I can make the van a LOT quieter.If I do this I will run an
oval cat because I will have a lot more room.

Anyone have a good one working, or logical suggestions? I can make
mounts but I want it hung from the engine, almost definitely

Keep in mind this is for an SVX, I do not have as much room to play
with as you 4 banger guys.
Thanks Neil







------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Crank Pulley Torque

 

Quite right - I forgot the vanagon wheel torque was so much higher than the cars (87 ft lbs)

I guess it's all up to what was being used to "loosen" the bolt and how much force was exerted.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Leon Korkin <korkwood@...> wrote:

Crank pulley bolt torque according to repair manual was only 72 ftlbs. I
torque it to 120 ftlbs, making sure pulley stays put.
Lug bolts/nuts 125 ftlbs
Leon

On 3/28/2012 10:23 AM, iwalklongtime wrote:

Unless you're the incredible hulk using a 2 foot breaker bar - I
wouldn't sweat it. The Subaru torque spec is around 100ftlbs (I
believe) which is tighter than your lug / wheel nuts.

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "Matt" <mattsewalson@> wrote:

So here's the deal. I got my motor and getting ready to do the
timing belt, idlers, water pump and etc. While removing the crank
pulley bolt I had a huge brain fart and gave it a few 1/4 turns the
wrong way. Once I figured out I was being a dumb a$$ and started to
turn the wrench he right way it came out with no problems. At no point
did it feel like I stripped anything out and the threads on the crank
pulley bolt look fine. I'm just a little concerned about the crank
shaft and if this could have caused any major damage.

Sorry for not giving more info in my first post but I was in a hurry
this morning.

Thanks,
Matt

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "Matt" <mattsewalson@> wrote:

Can one over tighten the crank pulley bolt and if so what's the
worst case scenario?

Matt


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Foreign Engines, Inc.

 

Anyone have any experience with the used EJ20 engines that can be
purchased through Foreign Engines, Inc? They are telling me they are
the same hp as the EJ22 and all my externals will bolt on just fine.
$800 with free delivery.


Re: SVX Muffler Options

 

Hi!

I have a home designed twin pipe exhaust system.
One "cat" on each side after the headers, a 180 degree turn, one 2" full
flow muffler on each side and then a cromed tail pipe.

/Eric

2012/3/28 Neil <furrylittleotter@...>

**


It appears I am on the verge of installing a stainless small car
header,probably going to add a stainless 2 1/4" catalytic convertor (a
small spun one), and I am curious what others have used for a muffler in
this application. I currently have a Magnaflow "Turbo" style muffler and I
would LOVE it if it were a heck of a lot quieter. I have the smallcar
engine mount, no rear apron ( I cut it off straight). I am not opposed to
modifying the smallcar exhaust hanger drastically if needed which, I
believe will give me a couple of inches.

I was behind a Chevy Envoy the other day and it had a nice fat muffler on
it. I'm thinking something like that, but I am not ENTIRELY opposed to
running a motor across the back of the van under the bumper if it will mean
I can make the van a LOT quieter.If I do this I will run an oval cat
because I will have a lot more room.

Anyone have a good one working, or logical suggestions? I can make mounts
but I want it hung from the engine, almost definitely

Keep in mind this is for an SVX, I do not have as much room to play with
as you 4 banger guys.
Thanks Neil



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]