Re: persistent backfire popping at deceleration

[email protected]

#2020

I think you will find that you have an exhaust leak somewhere.  Before 
I changed to the new and improved header I would have a backfire 
develop when decelerating every time a crack would occur in the 
exhaust.  I'd weld the exhaust and the backfire would go away.  I 
would know that a new crack had developed when the backfire returned. 
It has something to do with cold outside air entering the exhaust 
system and mixing with the hot air.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "John " <jfleming3@c...> wrote:
My 93 Legacy installation has an annoying problem.  It has always had 
a popping backfire when decelerating.  especially when coming to a 
stop or hard deceleration using the engine.

I have under 20,000 miles on the conversion.  I have doen the 
following to try to eliminate:

1.  I'm using the original VW cat & exhaust.  Kennedy said that 
should not be a problem.

2.  I replaced the timing belt as a precaution in case it had oil on 
it or had stretched/slipped, etc.

3.  Full tune-up.  Plugs and wires.

4.  Checked all intake for good seal using engine cleaner around 
flanges & etc.  found a small leak in the beginning, but no effect.

I guess I am at a loss to what could cause this as the ignition is 
completely computer controlled and I have no error codes.

Any advise would be appreciated.

John

No Luck Getting Smogged Today

Warren Chapman

#2019

In a previous post several listees reported that it was not necessary 
to go to the referee prior to getting smogged.

I went to two places today and both wouln't even hook it up.  One was 
my own regular mechanic who has been interested in the swap and 
regularly following my progress.  Both said I had to first go to the 
State referee to get a placque with a bar code that mounts on the 
door jamb and that they read into their computer.

Ed McKinley reported that the smog shop should have a "supplementary 
list" that they can look up the conversion.  Anyone know what this 
list is called??

Any further advice or tips???

Warren C.

[Fwd: Need a Engine ?]

Ella / Ray Hoerning

#2018

Re: more wiring Qs

Mark Dobkin

#2017

Warren:

Thanks for the help.  When I get the A/C going Ill let you know what I did.  Here in Southern Cal, A/C is mandatory.

Mark

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Concept ST-X

Nelson Stoll

#2016

开云体育

Hey Converts,

?

Fun stuff.? Below is a link showing a current Subaru factory concept car power for the ST-X.? I guess they have faith in the strength of the current 2.5L.?? I think the current 3.0L six would be a lot more practical though, when they become available in a couple of years.

?

Nelson,? SF Bay Area, '90 Vanagon still running strong at 140k; looking at restoration alternatives.

?

??????

?

Re: ignition- no spark woes

Patrick Bryson

#2015

Does anyone know of a similar Internet site for a '95 Legacy shop manual?

Thanks,
Patrick

Show quoted text

----- Original Message -----
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] ignition- no spark woes

elInjectionSystem/

Re: more wiring Qs

Warren Chapman

#2014

Mark,

Study carefully the "splicing diagram" that is part of KEP's(8.5x11)
wiring instructions.  It will answer some of your questions. You also 
need to familiarize yourself with the wires and plugs inside the 
black junction box on the left side of the engine bay. 
 
Inside this box is where the VW "chassis-side" wires connect to the 
VW "engine side" wires with two male/female connectors (one small 
square yellow and one large round white) and one screw lug (B+).  Use 
the VW harness on both sides of the connectors in this black box and 
splice the Suby wires to the "engine side" of original VW wires as 
indicated in the top left of KEP blueprint and on KEP's 8.5x11 
splicing diagram.  

I retained the original VW wiring all the way to the Suby engine for 
three connections:  Two of these were red VW B+ wires coming from the 
battery that I attached to the Suby alternator and the third was the 
VW water level sensor that connects to the expansion tank.

The second wire indicates "B+ Hot from battery."  Where does that 
wire come from on the Suby harness?  I got confused on these B+ wires too.  There are two sources of B+ 
The B+ wires that come direct from the battery (not in the black box) 
all connect to the alternator.  The rest connect inside the black box
to a screw.  Attached to this screw is the red wire from the battery 
and coming out of the box is a red VW wire that the following Suby 
wires should be spliced into: (1) the heavy yellow wires that come 
from the iginition and the starter solenoids.  (2)The always hot 
power yellow red (smaller) wire  that goes to the computer (a15)  

The third wire indicates "To ignition on."  Where  does that wire 
come from on the Suby harness?  My van had two black "iginition on" wires coming out of the black 
box. One of them had a red five amp fuse in it. I connect one to the 
yellow Suby wire on the alternator.  The other black VW wire connects 
to the Suby yellow/red wires that come from the computer (a2+a13)and 
the yellow/red wire that comes from the ignition solenoid.

The subharness beneath those three wires doesnt make sense to me 
either.  The connector is from the Vanagon, but where do we get a 
connector to connect to the Vanagon connector?  This is the round white Vanagon connector in the black box(both 
sides).  You may have pulled the "engine side" of these wires (with 
half of the round white plug, black ignition on, and water level 
sensor wires) when you removed your wasserboxer.  If so, go find 
them.  The big round white plug is easy to spot. Also the wire group 
that has this white plug also has a rubber ring around it that's flat 
on one side that slides into the black box. 

KEP's large drawing has a very clear picture of this round white plug 
(female side) with color codes for both the VW original wires (coming 
out of the plug) and the Suby wires that must be spliced into them.

Finally, whats the deal with that water level sensor wire at the 
bottom of the diagram?This is the original VW connector that goes from the expansion tank 
that turns the light on at the instrument panel if your water level 
gets too low.  The wires from it connect to the round white plug in 
the black box.  I didn't have to splice these wires. Used them as-is.
 
Can't help you on the A/C.  Haven't hooked mine up yet.  When you 
figure it out, let me know so I can hook mine up.

Warren C.


 --- In subaruvanagon@..., mdobkin@h... wrote:
I figured out the alternator wiring on my 90 Legacy harness.  The 
yellow wire goes to the diode.   But now I am trying to figure out 
where the A/C wires go.  Specifically, the yellow/grn wire and the 
red/yellow wires coming from the compressor don't have a place to 
go.  Where do they go, if anywhere?  The third wire of that group, 
red/blue goes to the ECU.

Also, on KEP's wiring diagram (the 6 foot one) on the upper left hand 
corner are three wires and a subharness that connecto to the Vanagon 
wiring.  The top wire is the blk/wht one coming from the alternator 
and going to the alternator light on the Vanagon.  The second wire 
indicates "B+ Hot from battery."  Where does that wire come from on 
the Suby harness?  The third wire indicates "To ignition on."  Where 
does that wire come from on the Suby harness?  Also, where do those 
inline fuses come from?  Are they from the Vanagon harness or do we 
buy those and install them inline?

The subharness beneath those three wires doesnt make sense to me 
either.  The connector is from the Vanagon, but where do we get a 
connector to connect to the Vanagon connector?  

Finally, whats the deal with that water level sensor wire at the 
bottom of the diagram?

Sorry for my ignorance.  Any help is much appreciated.

Mark Dobkin

Re: ignition- no spark woes timing belt

Darrell Boehler

#2013

Hi Brian,
     I remember having a lot of fun with a 2.2L that had the timing belt out of time. I  seem to remember it had some spark at times
but it wasn't consistent.  We spent a couple of days trying to get the 2.2L to start.  We  (listee Chuck Hill and I )  were using
the older chiltons. It is very unclear if not misleading as to where the crank should be when the cams are set up at the proper
mark. We did get a pop or 2 from the 2.2L when it was out of time but that was all. We finally got desperate and went shopping for
knowledge, a kind mechanic from the local subaru dealer in  Waterloo Iowa enlightened us.  The crank shaft should have the tang at
12 o'clock not the tic mark on the pulley. A couple of hours later we were listening to the sweet sound of the 2.2L come to life
with a roar.

Darrell

----- Original M. essage -----
From: <SBWC919@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 8:19 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] ignition- no spark woes



hi all- still havent cured my no-spark problem. some time ago, somebody
posted a troubleshooting guide from the subie manual. does anybody know the
address to this page? i really wanna drive this thing!!
brian

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more wiring Qs

[email protected]

#2012

I figured out the alternator wiring on my 90 Legacy harness.  The 
yellow wire goes to the diode.   But now I am trying to figure out 
where the A/C wires go.  Specifically, the yellow/grn wire and the 
red/yellow wires coming from the compressor don't have a place to 
go.  Where do they go, if anywhere?  The third wire of that group, 
red/blue goes to the ECU.

Also, on KEP's wiring diagram (the 6 foot one) on the upper left hand 
corner are three wires and a subharness that connecto to the Vanagon 
wiring.  The top wire is the blk/wht one coming from the alternator 
and going to the alternator light on the Vanagon.  The second wire 
indicates "B+ Hot from battery."  Where does that wire come from on 
the Suby harness?  The third wire indicates "To ignition on."  Where 
does that wire come from on the Suby harness?  Also, where do those 
inline fuses come from?  Are they from the Vanagon harness or do we 
buy those and install them inline?

The subharness beneath those three wires doesnt make sense to me 
either.  The connector is from the Vanagon, but where do we get a 
connector to connect to the Vanagon connector?  

Finally, whats the deal with that water level sensor wire at the 
bottom of the diagram?

Sorry for my ignorance.  Any help is much appreciated.

Mark Dobkin

Changing Power Steering Pump, oil on timing chain, problems???

[email protected]

#2011

I am working to make my 1990 Sub. Legacy (donor car....) run before I 
convert it into my vanagon.

I recently changed power steering pumps (Original busted in a front 
wreck....).  How do you avoid, without totally draining fluid, 
spilling this power steering fluid on top the the timing chain cover 
and hence the timing belt.

I did spill power steering here.  Is that a problem????

Larry

Posted another photo of throttle pulley

#2010

I forgot who it was but someone asked that I post another picture of 
the throttle pulley setup I am using. I posted it in the files 
section and called it throttle pulley2.  Seems to work fine.

Re: Need an engine, check this out

Larry Hamm

#2008

Ella / Ray Hoerning wrote:

Hello,
    Check out this link for auto parts. Looks to cover a wide area.
Ray,
What link?
Larry

Need an engine, check this out

Ella / Ray Hoerning

#2005

Hello,
    Check out this link for auto parts. Looks to cover a wide area.

        Good luck,
                Ray

Re: ignition- no spark woes

Darrell Boehler

#2009

Hi Brian,
    Try page 38.  
Darrell
 

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <SBWC919@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 8:19 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] ignition- no spark woes

hi all- still havent cured my no-spark problem. some time ago, somebody 
posted a troubleshooting guide from the subie manual. does anybody know the 
address to this page? i really wanna drive this thing!!
brian

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subaruvanagon-unsubscribe@...

Re: Darrell: Re VSS- Hall Effects units??

Darrell Boehler

#2006

Hi Warren,
    Thanks for the kind words. First I am spent my working life as a technician not an electronic engineer.  If you know one by all
means get advice form them. I would try a hall from digikey.com like " hal214ua-e-nd "        . It seems to have what we need,
voltage range,  current range is good, and is even suggested for use as a speed sensor among other things.
    The site you mention has some great hall information, thanks for pointing me that way.

Darrell

Show quoted text

----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren Chapman" <tallsound@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 11:16 AM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Darrell: Re VSS- Hall Effects units??

Darrell,

Thanks so much for your always helpful posts to our list.

I'm one of the non-electronics educated on the list and so looked up
the following site on "hall-effect"s to find out just what this is
and how it works.  Others may find it helpful.

This site (hand the digikey.com site you recommend) mentions several
types of hall units.  Can you recommend one type or a Digikey part
number that is useful for our application.

Warren C.

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Re: Final Drive Ratios

Leon Korkin

#2004

Hi Steve,
My van is 2wd but the spacer is needed to compensate for the diffrense in wheel
offset.Offset of standard Vanagon wheel is 35mm, Audi wheel offset is 45mm.
So the diffrence of 10mm=.39" and for Audi wheel to be in the stock position it
needs to be spaced out by this amount and clearing suspension parts also.
I chose 5/16" thickness and it was enough to clear suspension. The spacer print
is the drawing of spacer i did in Autocad so any machine shop can make it.
I am not familiar with Syncro but guess it doesn't matter.The hubs need to be
opened
to 2.500 dia due to front axle dust caps.
The studs must be longer for 2wd van, using Porshe studs may be expensive.
It's not that much work to do it and it is worth it. The hard part is removing
axle nut, it is very tight, i have very large, ab. 5 foot long handle with
socket to do it. Once you have axle hub out you can hammer old studs out. Get
new studs, (may have to ream holes in axle hubs if you use Pep Boys studs) and
press them in using hydrolic press.Standard studs have M14X1.5 thread and 35mm
long, knurled dia(for pressing) is ab. .580" Pep boys studs knurled dia is
larger so holes in axle hubs have to be reamed close to stud knurled dia so
there is little interference(.008 or less) to keep studs there.
Leon



Steve Coseo wrote:

Show quoted text

Thanks. Wow. Appreciate that.
Hey, a few questions sir.
Are you saying I need spacers on my syncro as well?
Or JUST for the non syncro applications? i have a reg van as well.
They seemed to fit fine on my syncro, and I looked at the suspension, but it
was dark and of course I might have missed something, and I have no idea how
they would fit with the suspension actually moving up and down.
The reason I ask this is that I have been told that the wheels fit the
syncro with NO mod, but I learned quickly that I had to ream the hub a bit.
What is a spacer print?
I have also heard that the rear lugs have to be longer for the wheels to fit
a non syncro van. Heard that porsche 911 studs work. Heard anything like
that?
I would hate to have to press it new studs. Sounds likea lot of work...
Thanks again,
steve

----Original Message Follows----
From: Leon Korkin <korkwood@...>
Reply-To: subaruvanagon@...
To: subaruvanagon@...
Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] Re: Final Drive Ratios
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 22:43:45 -0800

You will need spacers too.I got the same wheels and used 5/16" thick alum.
spacers and it works clearing all suspension parts.Reaming out the center is
critical part and has to be precise for wheel balancing.I got spacer print
and
if you need it can mail it to you. I got longer studs for rear hubs at Pep
boys
at very reasonable price. Because they were bit larger diameter had to drill
larger holes in hub and pressed them in. The wheels proved to be very good
and
with 215/75/15 tires lifted van for much better clearance.
Leon
85 Subwagen Westy

Steve Coseo wrote:

 > Great post. thanks.
 > Any pics of these wheels?
 > I am currently modifyng some 15 inch Audi Ronal alloys with the 45 mm
 > offset. Got them at a yard here in Seattle.
 > Painted them silver with a clear coat after I reamed out
 > the center hub a bit to get it to clear all 4 wheels on my syncro. Then I
 > reamed out the inside wheel hub so they would clear the front flange on
the
 > syncro disk hub.
 > To get them to fit a non syncro van Ill have to ream out the center hubs
to
 > a full 2.5 inches.
 > Sooooooo, does anyone know of a good machine shop in the Seattle area
that
 > could do that? Brian (smallcar.com)
 > -steve
 > seattle, wa
 > ps. I love my SA 15 inch wheels on my sooby van. great handling, and my
 > direct connection to the highway expansion seems went away..
 >
 > ----Original Message Follows----
 > From: "Darrell Boehler"
 > Reply-To: subaruvanagon@...
 > To:
 > Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] Re: Final Drive Ratios
 > Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:31:46 -0600
 > Hi All,
 > My son Tom has after market mb allow wheels similar to what Nelson
described
 > a couple days ago. 5x112 bolt pattern, 7 inch rims with a 25 mm or 1 inch
 > off set. They fit his 86 2wd westy about as well as any that could be
 > engineered for it. He has m&s 215 75 15 LT tires and they turn 761
 > revolutions per mile, some 185 r 14 c tires on my double cab were 814,
his
 > old front tires LT 195 75 r 14 turned 834and rear 225 70 14 were 795. The
 > 2.2L now turns 3700 rpm at a gps 70 mph . He has been touring the
northwest
 > the past couple of weeks and likes this set up. His words are more like
it
 > handles great, he also has a rear anti- sway bar.
 > I invested quite a lot of time with him on his wheels and tires and feel
his
 > set up with 25 mm offset is as good as you can get using the same wheels
all
 > around with no spacers. It is dead center between the outside wheel well
and
 > ball joint in front and has 1 inch of clearance at the trailing arms and
 > shocks in rear, enough so tire cables / chains will be fine if they are
 > tightened properly.
 > We looked at installing a taller 4th gear, Weddle has about 3 options to
 > choose from around $200. Larger wheels makes all gears taller and we
liked
 > that.
 > Tom's 2.2L has never had dying at a stop sign syndrome. Just the 33 (vss)
 > error code. We added a hall vss in place of the o2 counter and all is
happy
 > with the ecu. The check engine light stays off. However if we hook up
read
 > out jumper it will have 51 and 52 (neutral and parking brake) errors
logged.
 > Darrell
 > ----- Original Message -----
 > From: dewymer@...
 > To: subaruvanagon@...
 > Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 12:34 AM
 > Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: Final Drive Ratios
 > Nelson,
 > My 87 with close ratio 5 speed turns 4000 RPM @ 70 mph as well. There is
a
 > gear ratio chart somewhere within "Tom's Vanagon Website" (not sure) in
the
 > engine conversion section.
 > Dale
 > 87 wolf
 > California
 > Nelson Stoll wrote:
 > Dear Converts,
 > Were there really two different final drives made by the factory for the
 > Vanagon? What is the ratio of the US '90/'91 Vanagon?
 > If there was adaquate power available, I sure would like to see the
engine
 > turning around 3600 or 3700, instead of the 4000 it now turns at 70 MPH.
 > Nelson StollSF Bay Area'90 Vanagon
 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
 > subaruvanagon-unsubscribe@...
 > _________________________________________________________________
 > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at 
 >
 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
 > subaruvanagon-unsubscribe@...

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Re: filling collent from the radiator ?

#2003

--- In subaruvanagon@..., beamreach@u... wrote:
Hi All,

I've ordered the kit from KEP and motor from a 93 subi to cure 
my "thrown rod problem" in my 87 syncro.   KEP sent me some docs 
early and looking them over I already having wiring questions (that 
I'll save for later hoping they'll solve themselves as I get into it).

My question here is about filling the coolent.  The Docs indicate 
that a front filling radiator might eliminate trapped air problems 
and make bleeding the cooling system so much easier.   Has anyone 
tried this ?  My thought was to get a small aquarium pump and place 
the output into the hole for the bleeder bolt on top of the radiator, 
other end in a jug of coolent of course.

Any thoughts ?

John,  Evergreen, CO

PS, if anyone needs a source for motors, I've found a business in 
Boulder CO that looks reputable and I'm willing to go up and look 
over motors for anyone who needs.

Re: filling collent from the radiator ?

#2002

--hello john i have installed a front fill radiator in my 1986 
westy . Im currently in longmont co visiting if you want to take a 
look at the car.mail me back with your # and ill give you a call  
danny


- In subaruvanagon@..., beamreach@u... wrote:
Hi All,

I've ordered the kit from KEP and motor from a 93 subi to cure 
my "thrown rod problem" in my 87 syncro.   KEP sent me some docs 
early and looking them over I already having wiring questions (that 
I'll save for later hoping they'll solve themselves as I get into it).

My question here is about filling the coolent.  The Docs indicate 
that a front filling radiator might eliminate trapped air problems 
and make bleeding the cooling system so much easier.   Has anyone 
tried this ?  My thought was to get a small aquarium pump and place 
the output into the hole for the bleeder bolt on top of the radiator, 
other end in a jug of coolent of course.

Any thoughts ?

John,  Evergreen, CO

PS, if anyone needs a source for motors, I've found a business in 
Boulder CO that looks reputable and I'm willing to go up and look 
over motors for anyone who needs.

ignition- no spark woes

[email protected]

#2007

hi all- still havent cured my no-spark problem. some time ago, somebody 
posted a troubleshooting guide from the subie manual. does anybody know the 
address to this page? i really wanna drive this thing!!
brian

filling collent from the radiator ?

[email protected]

#2001

Hi All,

I've ordered the kit from KEP and motor from a 93 subi to cure 
my "thrown rod problem" in my 87 syncro.   KEP sent me some docs 
early and looking them over I already having wiring questions (that 
I'll save for later hoping they'll solve themselves as I get into it).

My question here is about filling the coolent.  The Docs indicate 
that a front filling radiator might eliminate trapped air problems 
and make bleeding the cooling system so much easier.   Has anyone 
tried this ?  My thought was to get a small aquarium pump and place 
the output into the hole for the bleeder bolt on top of the radiator, 
other end in a jug of coolent of course.

Any thoughts ?

John,  Evergreen, CO

PS, if anyone needs a source for motors, I've found a business in 
Boulder CO that looks reputable and I'm willing to go up and look 
over motors for anyone who needs.