Turns out this $1800 short block spun a bearing within 1500mi due to an improperly installed con rod bearing.
The dealer refunded money for the block.
|
Re: 199? 2.2 high idle when hot
Dean OlRvrRat is the winner!
"To double-check, next time it happens I'll verify there is slack in the throttle cable at idle and manually move the throttle cam to ensure it is in closed position and report back."
Pushed the throttle cam back and settled right down.
Something about the heat is affecting the drag on the sheath/cable.
This van is the mid-engine Subaru build I just picked up and the throttle cable is sheathed all the way and makes a number of turns.
If I can add one thing . I had to break an old habit of applying throttle when starting. With ?the new rebuild , I noticed how each time the initial higher revs approx 2k RPM dropped to 1k more quickly . I?Agree
that cleaning the throttle body with a couple of cans of carb cleaner , some disposable harbor freight mini brushes over a long afternoon is very satisfying .?
Well, I am no expert here, but EVERYTHING in Throttle Body, IACV, cable linkages....needs to be very clean.? Only takes a few hours to make this happen, and it is satisfying work.? When you do all this cleaning, the ECU is
temporarily confused....it has been adjusting to dirty things for a long time...but with time the ECU is designed to recalibrate itself.? So that takes more time and cycles, like 20 startup/shutdown cycles.? But it will happen.? But components all need to
be clean as a whistle to give ECU a fair chance.
On Thursday, August 8, 2024 at 09:12:41 AM PDT, ANDREW < andrewvanis@...> wrote:
Replies in body -
On Thu, Aug 8, 2024, 8:57?AM OlRivrRat DeanB via
<olrivrrat= [email protected]> wrote:
Are You speaking of Eng' or Ambient heat,,,
Engine.
?
How hot does it need to get,,,
Starting out it idles fine.? Idles high after a highway run?
?
How high is idle when high,,,
2,000-3,000 rpm
?
Would it be correct to assume You have checked for sticky throttle,,,
Yes and not to the level of disconnecting the cable and push/pulling the cable by hand through housing.? I'm fleet confident it is not a sticky cable.
To double-check, next time it happens I'll verify there is slack in the throttle cable at idle and manually move the throttle cam to ensure it is in closed position and report back.
|
Re: '96 Subaru 2.5 AT: rebuilt engine: perfect idle, no power on acceleration
This is a good question. I did not install the transmission.? Both engine and transmission were out of the van at a guy's shop. He bolted both transmission and engine back into the van and then sent me on my way (long story) to tow it home and finish the installation. I had to do all final hookup: wiring and hoses.
What should I look for or do to ensure it is correct?
Is it the engine or the transmission? How did you install the torque converter - 3 clicks to set? Then connect the engine to bellhousing and TC to flexplate? Was TC distance within spec (3/8 inch or whatever it is from end of bellhousing?
|
Re: '96 Subaru 2.5 AT: rebuilt engine: perfect idle, no power on acceleration
Is it the engine or the transmission? How did you install the torque converter - 3 clicks to set? Then connect the engine to bellhousing and TC to flexplate? Was TC distance within spec (3/8 inch or whatever it is from end of bellhousing?
|
Re: '96 Subaru 2.5 AT: rebuilt engine: perfect idle, no power on acceleration
Is your fuel pump noisy..cavitation...fuel pressure changes under load...I had a similar issue...install a fuel pressure gauge and setup my IPhone to video the gauge while driving...and saw the pressure was way low under load...air lock from fuel tank to fuel pump would not allow enough fuel to keep up the pressure needed...purged the air and all is great Rod
On Thu, Aug 8, 2024 at 6:11?PM walking upstream via <walkingupstream= [email protected]> wrote: Thank you-?
?
Among my laundry list, I forgot to mention a replaced Cat with no change in symptom. It's possible to have gotten a new-bad part- but I really hope not.
?
I can't confirm that the muffler is not clogged; how might I do that?
?
If in park and I rev the engine, it is no problem, sounds and feels good- there is only a problem when in gear and driving. It feels good going through 1st gear, but gets all sputtery in 2nd.
?
I tested previously with O2 sensors disconnected with no difference in performance
|
Re: 199? 2.2 high idle when hot
If I can add one thing . I had to break an old habit of applying throttle when starting. With ?the new rebuild , I noticed how each time the initial higher revs approx 2k RPM dropped to 1k more quickly . I?Agree
that cleaning the throttle body with a couple of cans of carb cleaner , some disposable harbor freight mini brushes over a long afternoon is very satisfying .?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Well, I am no expert here, but EVERYTHING in Throttle Body, IACV, cable linkages....needs to be very clean.? Only takes a few hours to make this happen, and it is satisfying work.? When you do all this cleaning, the ECU is
temporarily confused....it has been adjusting to dirty things for a long time...but with time the ECU is designed to recalibrate itself.? So that takes more time and cycles, like 20 startup/shutdown cycles.? But it will happen.? But components all need to
be clean as a whistle to give ECU a fair chance.
On Thursday, August 8, 2024 at 09:12:41 AM PDT, ANDREW <andrewvanis@...> wrote:
Replies in body -
On Thu, Aug 8, 2024, 8:57?AM OlRivrRat DeanB via
<olrivrrat= [email protected]> wrote:
Are You speaking of Eng' or Ambient heat,,,
Engine.
?
How hot does it need to get,,,
Starting out it idles fine.? Idles high after a highway run?
?
How high is idle when high,,,
2,000-3,000 rpm
?
Would it be correct to assume You have checked for sticky throttle,,,
Yes and not to the level of disconnecting the cable and push/pulling the cable by hand through housing.? I'm fleet confident it is not a sticky cable.
To double-check, next time it happens I'll verify there is slack in the throttle cable at idle and manually move the throttle cam to ensure it is in closed position and report back.
|
Re: '96 Subaru 2.5 AT: rebuilt engine: perfect idle, no power on acceleration
Thank you-?
?
Among my laundry list, I forgot to mention a replaced Cat with no change in symptom. It's possible to have gotten a new-bad part- but I really hope not.
?
I can't confirm that the muffler is not clogged; how might I do that?
?
If in park and I rev the engine, it is no problem, sounds and feels good- there is only a problem when in gear and driving. It feels good going through 1st gear, but gets all sputtery in 2nd.
?
I tested previously with O2 sensors disconnected with no difference in performance
|
Re: 199? 2.2 high idle when hot
Well, I am no expert here, but EVERYTHING in Throttle Body, IACV, cable linkages....needs to be very clean.? Only takes a few hours to make this happen, and it is satisfying work.? When you do all this cleaning, the ECU is temporarily confused....it has been adjusting to dirty things for a long time...but with time the ECU is designed to recalibrate itself.? So that takes more time and cycles, like 20 startup/shutdown cycles.? But it will happen.? But components all need to be clean as a whistle to give ECU a fair chance.
On Thursday, August 8, 2024 at 09:12:41 AM PDT, ANDREW <andrewvanis@...> wrote:
Replies in body - On Thu, Aug 8, 2024, 8:57?AM OlRivrRat DeanB via <olrivrrat= [email protected]> wrote: Are You speaking of Eng' or Ambient heat,,,
Engine.
?
How hot does it need to get,,,
Starting out it idles fine.? Idles high after a highway run?
?
How high is idle when high,,,
2,000-3,000 rpm
?
Would it be correct to assume You have checked for sticky throttle,,,
Yes and not to the level of disconnecting the cable and push/pulling the cable by hand through housing.? I'm fleet confident it is not a sticky cable.
To double-check, next time it happens I'll verify there is slack in the throttle cable at idle and manually move the throttle cam to ensure it is in closed position and report back.
|
Re: 199? 2.2 high idle when hot
Replies in body - On Thu, Aug 8, 2024, 8:57?AM OlRivrRat DeanB via <olrivrrat= [email protected]> wrote: Are You speaking of Eng' or Ambient heat,,,
Engine.
?
How hot does it need to get,,,
Starting out it idles fine.? Idles high after a highway run?
?
How high is idle when high,,,
2,000-3,000 rpm
?
Would it be correct to assume You have checked for sticky throttle,,,
Yes and not to the level of disconnecting the cable and push/pulling the cable by hand through housing.? I'm fleet confident it is not a sticky cable.
To double-check, next time it happens I'll verify there is slack in the throttle cable at idle and manually move the throttle cam to ensure it is in closed position and report back.
|
Re: 199? 2.2 high idle when hot
Are You speaking of Eng' or Ambient heat,,,
?
How hot does it need to get,,,
?
How high is idle when high,,,
?
Would it be correct to assume You have checked for sticky throttle,,,
|
Re: '96 Subaru 2.5 AT: rebuilt engine: perfect idle, no power on acceleration
Have You confirmed that AT is in 1st @ start out,,,
Is it possible that Cat or Muffler are clogged,,,
Have You tested with O2Snsrs disconnected,,,
|
Re: '96 Subaru 2.5 AT: rebuilt engine: perfect idle, no power on acceleration
Morning Mr. Hersh. You’ve certainly done your due diligence! Here are a few suggestions.
Check/clean ground connections, especially those serving the intake manifold, engine to frame, and ECU to frame. You replaced the plugs/wires/coil but there is a chance that you got a new-bad part in that mix. ?Is there a chance you could take the old parts and swap them in for a test? You state that your timing is spot on. ?I’m going to hold you to that as an improperly installed timing belt could result in the symptoms you mentioned. Question: ?You mentioned it has little to no power on acceleration. ?Is the symptom the same in neutral when just revving the engine? Is your catalytic converter clogged?
Hope we can get you through this. Best,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Aug 8, 2024, at 8:37?AM, walking upstream via groups.io <walkingupstream@...> wrote:
'91 Vanagon, '96 EJ25 AT
?
I damaged the crankshaft of my 35,000 mile engine, so I found another '96 EJ25 and rebuilt using the small block of a 'known running' second engine with 121,000 miles. I used the heads from the 35,000 mile first engine. New timing components. New pumps. Both engines have heads w/buckets and no shims- so same engine, right?
?
The engine was reinstalled a year ago- idles perfect, but it has little/no power on acceleration and before long throws misfire codes for multiple if not all cylinders. Otherwise, there haven't been any codes.
?
I feel like I've gone over everything:
- replaced plugs, wires, coil
- replaced throttle position sensor
- replaced crankshaft position sensor
- replaced front O2 sensor
- new PCV valve
- cleaned MAF, replaced with spare MAF
- cleaned EGR, replaced with spare EGR
- IAC adjusts when swiveling the top/idle adjustment
- new fuel pump; pump functions
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- new neutral position switch
- new ignition switch
- injectors are firing, have not replaced injectors
- compression test okay all cylinders
- oil pressure better than okay
- timing checked
- vacuum hoses replaced
- replaced VSS: ECU has speed reading
- tank mostly full with Shell '91 octane, also has a bottle of fuel system/injector cleaner in the tank
- transmission has no more than 3k miles on it after rebuild
- installed adjustable fuel pressure regulator in series after the Subaru FPR. Holds fuel pressure at 36psi
- spare ECU has the same result
- using Torque app, all readings appear within spec.
?
Every time I try something, I feel like I am just one step away from this thing working- but I've felt that way for a year now!
?
What am I missing???
|
'96 Subaru 2.5 AT: rebuilt engine: perfect idle, no power on acceleration
'91 Vanagon, '96 EJ25 AT
?
I damaged the crankshaft of my 35,000 mile engine, so I found another '96 EJ25 and rebuilt using the small block of a 'known running' second engine with 121,000 miles. I used the heads from the 35,000 mile first engine. New timing components. New pumps. Both engines have heads w/buckets and no shims- so same engine, right?
?
The engine was reinstalled a year ago- idles perfect, but it has little/no power on acceleration and before long throws misfire codes for multiple if not all cylinders. Otherwise, there haven't been any codes.
?
I feel like I've gone over everything:
- replaced plugs, wires, coil
- replaced throttle position sensor
- replaced crankshaft position sensor
- replaced front O2 sensor
- new PCV valve
- cleaned MAF, replaced with spare MAF
- cleaned EGR, replaced with spare EGR
- IAC adjusts when swiveling the top/idle adjustment
- new fuel pump; pump functions
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- new neutral position switch
- new ignition switch
- injectors are firing, have not replaced injectors
- compression test okay all cylinders
- oil pressure better than okay
- timing checked
- vacuum hoses replaced
- replaced VSS: ECU has speed reading
- tank mostly full with Shell '91 octane, also has a bottle of fuel system/injector cleaner in the tank
- transmission has no more than 3k miles on it after rebuild
- installed adjustable fuel pressure regulator in series after the Subaru FPR. Holds fuel pressure at 36psi
- spare ECU has the same result
- using Torque app, all readings appear within spec.
?
Every time I try something, I feel like I am just one step away from this thing working- but I've felt that way for a year now!
?
What am I missing???
|
199? 2.2 high idle when hot
199? 2.2 high idle when hot
New to me so don't know anything about it.?
On my 1999 2.5 when it happened i replaced the idle air control valve.
Hints and ways to approach please.
Thanks, Andy
|
Re: SubaruVanagon Parts/Servicing/Installers Database Now Available
Thanks for doing that.....With that confirmation work, it would be nice to have a "in business as of" date field so folks can know and update as things go along
Hey gang.
I went through the old listing of conversion related vendors I had mentioned earlier.? Attempted emails, searching for business listings, etc.
Only a few made it through the searches and I've added them to the database.
Again....y'all feel free to add records when you get a chance.? It helps out everyone to know who works on our rigs or sells parts for the conversions.
Best,
Brent
|
Re: SubaruVanagon Parts/Servicing/Installers Database Now Available
Hey gang.
I went through the old listing of conversion related vendors I had mentioned earlier.? Attempted emails, searching for business listings, etc.
Only a few made it through the searches and I've added them to the database.
/g/SubaruVanagon/table?id=41314
Again....y'all feel free to add records when you get a chance.? It helps out everyone to know who works on our rigs or sells parts for the conversions.
Best,
Brent
|
Re: Picking an A/C compressor for the '90 2.2 in my '90 vanagon
I was I'll post it up in the next couple of days hopefully tonight
Andrew, you were talking about an adapter plate that will take a
better compressor?
Can I get some details?
Rob
vwrobb@...
On Wed, Aug 7, 2024 at 12:39?PM ANDREW via
<andrewvanis=[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Swiss army, that's really good info.
>
> Re compressor, I've designed an adapter plate that mounts to the typical 2.2/2.5 AC bracket which takes a very common FS10 compressor available from 4seasons or whoever.
>
> The FS10 is about 11 cubic inches vs the typical 6-7 cubic inches for a passenger car/SUV.? The Vanagon is 2x the interior volume if a 1999 Subaru Forester SUV.
>
> On Wed, Aug 7, 2024, 9:33?AM swissarmychainsaw via <swissarmychainsaw=[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> Ebay has brackets, maybe ask the samba or FB groups too.
>> I've done a few AC systems on larger vehicles like suburbans and these vans.
>> My input is: it's worth it to invest in the tools to make your AC. Crimper, Vacuum pump, and gauges.
>> Once you get the basics, it's very straightforward to do at home.
>>
>> On the van, one big issue it to prevent hot air flowing into the cab, aka "Hot Foot".? ? Do that first.
>>
>> If you want a killer system, I would use a stock rear AC and add a front unit. All SUV use dual evap. systems like this for a reason.? Many will say the rear is enough, but I like it cold!
>> For front, there are several small units you could mount.? The AW Behr style front would be my first choice, then maybe the small car, or a generic Vintage air small unit could work.
>>
>> You just Tee the front and rear systems together (high side and low side).
>> Consumable parts that your should replace:
>> Accumulator/Drier (must)
>> Any o-ring you encounter (must) - use the green HNBR Nitrile ones
>> Thermal Expansion valve (TXV) at the stock rear unit (should do)
>> Parallel flow condensers work better than the fin/tube and are pretty affordable (should do)
>> Might be good to size the compressor for a dual system (should do) - call vintage air or any AC retailer for suggestions
>>
>> Last thing I would consider - though I have not done this -would be an electric pusher fan on the condenser if you are in stop and go traffic at all.? My van with the stock radiator fan does not do a great job of moving air across the condenser if the van is not physically moving.
>> On my suburban I had an e-fan and it would blow cold sitting at idle (for example during the AC charging procedure, where the Van had to go for a drive before it produced any cold air.)
>> Good Luck!
>> Nick
>
>
|
Re: Picking an A/C compressor for the '90 2.2 in my '90 vanagon
Andrew, you were talking about an adapter plate that will take a better compressor? Can I get some details? Rob vwrobb@... On Wed, Aug 7, 2024 at 12:39?PM ANDREW via groups.io <andrewvanis@...> wrote:
Swiss army, that's really good info.
Re compressor, I've designed an adapter plate that mounts to the typical 2.2/2.5 AC bracket which takes a very common FS10 compressor available from 4seasons or whoever.
The FS10 is about 11 cubic inches vs the typical 6-7 cubic inches for a passenger car/SUV. The Vanagon is 2x the interior volume if a 1999 Subaru Forester SUV.
On Wed, Aug 7, 2024, 9:33?AM swissarmychainsaw via groups.io <swissarmychainsaw@...> wrote:
Ebay has brackets, maybe ask the samba or FB groups too.
I've done a few AC systems on larger vehicles like suburbans and these vans.
My input is: it's worth it to invest in the tools to make your AC. Crimper, Vacuum pump, and gauges.
Once you get the basics, it's very straightforward to do at home.
On the van, one big issue it to prevent hot air flowing into the cab, aka "Hot Foot". Do that first.
If you want a killer system, I would use a stock rear AC and add a front unit. All SUV use dual evap. systems like this for a reason. Many will say the rear is enough, but I like it cold!
For front, there are several small units you could mount. The AW Behr style front would be my first choice, then maybe the small car, or a generic Vintage air small unit could work.
You just Tee the front and rear systems together (high side and low side).
Consumable parts that your should replace:
Accumulator/Drier (must)
Any o-ring you encounter (must) - use the green HNBR Nitrile ones
Thermal Expansion valve (TXV) at the stock rear unit (should do)
Parallel flow condensers work better than the fin/tube and are pretty affordable (should do)
Might be good to size the compressor for a dual system (should do) - call vintage air or any AC retailer for suggestions
Last thing I would consider - though I have not done this -would be an electric pusher fan on the condenser if you are in stop and go traffic at all. My van with the stock radiator fan does not do a great job of moving air across the condenser if the van is not physically moving.
On my suburban I had an e-fan and it would blow cold sitting at idle (for example during the AC charging procedure, where the Van had to go for a drive before it produced any cold air.)
Good Luck!
Nick
|
Re: Picking an A/C compressor for the '90 2.2 in my '90 vanagon
Swiss army, that's really good info.?
Re compressor, I've designed an adapter plate that mounts to the typical 2.2/2.5 AC bracket which takes a very common FS10 compressor available from 4seasons or whoever.
The FS10 is about 11 cubic inches vs the typical 6-7 cubic inches for a passenger car/SUV.? The Vanagon is 2x the interior volume if a 1999 Subaru Forester SUV. On Wed, Aug 7, 2024, 9:33?AM swissarmychainsaw via <swissarmychainsaw= [email protected]> wrote:
Ebay has brackets, maybe ask the samba or FB groups too.
I've done a few AC systems on larger vehicles like suburbans and these vans.
My input is: it's worth it to invest in the tools to make your AC. Crimper, Vacuum pump, and gauges.
Once you get the basics, it's very straightforward to do at home.
?
On the van, one big issue it to prevent hot air flowing into the cab, aka "Hot Foot".??? Do that first.
If you want a killer system, I would use a stock rear AC and add a front unit. All SUV use dual evap. systems like this for a reason.? Many will say the rear is enough, but I like it cold!
For front, there are several small units you could mount.? The AW Behr style front would be my first choice, then maybe the small car, or a generic Vintage air small unit could work.
You just Tee the front and rear systems together (high side and low side).
Consumable parts that your should replace:
Accumulator/Drier (must)
Any o-ring you encounter (must) - use the green HNBR Nitrile ones
Thermal Expansion valve (TXV) at the stock rear unit (should do)
Parallel flow condensers work better than the fin/tube and are pretty affordable (should do)
Might be good to size the compressor for a dual system (should do) - call vintage air or any AC retailer for suggestions
Last thing I would consider - though I have not done this -would be an electric pusher fan on the condenser if you are in stop and go traffic at all.? My van with the stock radiator fan does not do a great job of moving air across the condenser if the van is not physically moving.
On my suburban I had an e-fan and it would blow cold sitting at idle (for example during the AC charging procedure, where the Van had to go for a drive before it produced any cold air.)
Good Luck!
Nick
|
Re: Picking an A/C compressor for the '90 2.2 in my '90 vanagon
Ebay has brackets, maybe ask the samba or FB groups too.
I've done a few AC systems on larger vehicles like suburbans and these vans.
My input is: it's worth it to invest in the tools to make your AC. Crimper, Vacuum pump, and gauges.
Once you get the basics, it's very straightforward to do at home.
?
On the van, one big issue it to prevent hot air flowing into the cab, aka "Hot Foot".??? Do that first.
If you want a killer system, I would use a stock rear AC and add a front unit. All SUV use dual evap. systems like this for a reason.? Many will say the rear is enough, but I like it cold!
For front, there are several small units you could mount.? The AW Behr style front would be my first choice, then maybe the small car, or a generic Vintage air small unit could work.
You just Tee the front and rear systems together (high side and low side).
Consumable parts that your should replace:
Accumulator/Drier (must)
Any o-ring you encounter (must) - use the green HNBR Nitrile ones
Thermal Expansion valve (TXV) at the stock rear unit (should do)
Parallel flow condensers work better than the fin/tube and are pretty affordable (should do)
Might be good to size the compressor for a dual system (should do) - call vintage air or any AC retailer for suggestions
Last thing I would consider - though I have not done this -would be an electric pusher fan on the condenser if you are in stop and go traffic at all.? My van with the stock radiator fan does not do a great job of moving air across the condenser if the van is not physically moving.
On my suburban I had an e-fan and it would blow cold sitting at idle (for example during the AC charging procedure, where the Van had to go for a drive before it produced any cold air.)
Good Luck!
Nick
|
Dr Mark
OlRivrRat DeanB
Brent Weide