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Re: 2004 2.5 bad idle/stalling
No, I never changed that part out. I'll try to check the voltage. ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Wayne Sitarz
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2024 12:24 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SubaruVanagon] 2004 2.5 bad idle/stalling? Did you change out the throttle position sensor? It has to be set with a specific voltage reading at idle - 0.5v I think.
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Re: Bad aftermarket coils - diagnostic
Wow, fascinating. This suggests they are like me, I have faith in everything I buy so I tend to replace multiple things at once. It would have been obvious if the coils, and only the coils, were replaced between starts. I've gotta to change my habits, for sure.
--
Freedom van Go
1989 Westy, 3.3L SVX
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Wow someone passed you twice already with a Frank motor? Go back to that same guy. They test on Subaru engine specs.?
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On Mar 10, 2024, at 9:27 AM, Alex De Guzman <azianspirit@...> wrote:
?Had pass smog twice already but this last time wasn’t passing. I was wondering when they input info for the test are they basing it on the vw specs or Subaru.
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Had pass smog twice already but this last time wasn’t passing. I was wondering when they input info for the test are they basing it on the vw specs or Subaru.
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Bad aftermarket coils - diagnostic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXBA6FWCgIM
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Re: P1507 stalling bouncing idle
Have you tried Googling P1507 Subaru?
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It’s not just about passing emissions. First of all you need the Kennedy kit with the CARB executive order number. Without it no they won’t even look at you. You can try the smog referee.?
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On Mar 9, 2024, at 8:10 AM, Alex De Guzman <azianspirit@...> wrote:
?The problem is the HC going ?200 points above the limit at 2500 rpm during the test. Everything else is good.
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The problem is the HC going ?200 points above the limit at 2500 rpm during the test. Everything else is good.
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P1507 stalling bouncing idle
this is my first subaru swap into a vanagon i love the idea. all? was?well.....until p1507. so a little background. i did the swap and all of the wiring myself (im a mechanic for a living) the engine is a 2.2 single port out of a 99 Impreza that is installed in a 90 westy. for a few months no issues then out of nowhere i get this code every time after the vehicle reaches operating temp. im pulling my hair out because i cant for the life of me figure this out. the vss is the cv style pickup (smallcar) and is functioning. the iacv is new and functioning the tps is new and functioning. ive read about the nss being grounded i havent done this yet because im unsure of how to go about it. people are talking about putting the ecu into manual mode mine doesnt have a pin to ground for that i dont think. HELP!  ?
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Re: 2004 2.5 bad idle/stalling
Jason,
I’ve got an ‘05 ej25 in my Vanagon that had the very same issue- drove me nuts. It would stall every time I came to a stop. The solution to my issue was allowing the engine to warm up and idle for 10 minutes before driving. I’m not sure if it’s related to the ECU, but every time I’ve let it idle for 10-15 minutes, it’s not stalled since. Maybe others can chime in as to why. My engine code was P1492, EGR signal. The stalling didn’t matter if the EGR wiring harness was plugged in or not. ?
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Re: 2004 2.5 bad idle/stalling
Did you change out the throttle position sensor? It has to be set with a specific voltage reading at idle - 0.5v I think.
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Frankenmotor no way they are going to pass you. I had to register my Franken at my parents house in Nevada.
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On Mar 8, 2024, at 9:10 AM, Alex De Guzman <azianspirit@...> wrote:
?Have a 91 Carat that a Frankenmotor installed in 2018, small car big brakes, automatic with peloquin limited slip, upgraded final drive, new bilsteins with less than 10k on the motor. Stored for more than a year. Does anybody know a smog place around the LA area particularly in the San Fernando Valley familiar with this conversion.
thanks
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Re: 2004 2.5 bad idle/stalling
A cluster of codes affecting one sensor often point to a bad ground. Verify IACV is propery grounded and the intake manifold has a good ground to the chasis.?
Todd
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Have a 91 Carat that a Frankenmotor installed in 2018, small car big brakes, automatic with peloquin limited slip, upgraded final drive, new bilsteins with less than 10k on the motor. Stored for more than a year. Does anybody know a smog place around the LA area particularly in the San Fernando Valley familiar with this conversion.
thanks
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Re: 2004 2.5 bad idle/stalling
Thanks for all of the replies. I should mention the idling isn't too bad. it's the stalling that is. ? I have a big list of codes, most of which are related to the swap , i.e. fuel temp , fan blower etc. ? But these pop up too: ? P1516 IMRC input error (Bank 1) Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 4 circuit Low input P1514 High Load Neutral / Drive Fault. ?Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 3 circuit Low input P1512 Intake manifold runner control (Bank 1) Stuck Closed Idle Air Control Solenoid signal 2 circuit low Input 1510 Idle Air Control Solenoid Signal 1 circuit Low input. ? P0420 Catalytic converter system bank 1 efficiency below threshold ? ? P0447 EVAP system vent control - open circuit ? I'd like to test the VSS too but I'm not sure how. ? Thanks again ? ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Wayne Sitarz
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2024 8:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SubaruVanagon] 2004 2.5 bad idle/stalling? Codes? Is the VSS working? Cleaning the the IACV fixed stalling at a stop for me.
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Re: 2004 2.5 bad idle/stalling
Codes? Is the VSS working? Cleaning the the IACV fixed stalling at a stop for me.
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Re: 2004 2.5 bad idle/stalling
My guess is that the "other used ones" for IACV were also gummed up.? This is just the way it goes; they breathe in oily air from crankcase...get gummed up...causes stalls.? I submitted a writeup 4 years ago as to what I did to solve the problem.? Here is what I wrote:
To
really clean the IACV, you need to remove it.? OK, going from memory
now....first I removed air cleaner and the big plastic tube going to the
Throttle body (just screwdriver work to remove clamps).? I also removed
the 3 hoses going into the big plastic tube.? I also removed a couple
more tubes that pass by on the backside of the IACV to allow access to
the 4 bolts that secure it.
A
mechanics mirror and flashlight was useful to see the 4 bolts; 2 are
longer, 2 are shorter.? I removed all 4 which allowed me to disconnect
the two coolant lines that go to the base of the IACV.? I was expecting
coolant to flow out of these lines but none did.? Disconnect the
electrical connector at the base of the IACV and remove it and take to
workbench.
Cleaning
the IACV was accomplished by using a LOT of double-ended cotton swabs.?
I used CRC Throttle Body Cleaner; sprayed a modest amount into both the
intake and exit sides of the IACV.? Worked the swabs around inside.?
They started out black.? Progressively they became dark gray, then
lighter gray, and finally white.? I must have used 50 swabs!
I did NOT replace the gasket between the IACV and the manifold but probably should have.
For
the Throttle Body it was a similar scenario.? Removed the accelerator
and cruise control cables from the sector on the Throttle Body.? The
biggest pain was removing the gasket which had adhered to the manifold;
my biggest worry was having bits of the old gasket fall down into the
intake manifold; I used a sharp single edge razor blade to patiently
slice off the old gasket without scratching the delicate aluminum; I
also had a white T-shirt stuffed down into the manifold to collect any
fragments of gasket.? I went to the Subaru dealer for the gasket; they
ordered and had within a day; the correct P/N is 16175AA151 for this
gasket and cost $5.01
Of
course the most important areas to clean on the Throttle Body is where
the round throttle plate seals against the throat, and also the pivot
area.? There must be no binding whatsover.
After
re-assembly, I had instant start-up.? But idle was very high, like 2200
RPM.? Apparently there is a "learning process" that the computer needs
to do; so I would start up, drive, get things warmed up, and gradually
things settled down.? Took like 15 cycles.? My hot idle is still a
little on the high side, like 1000 RPM; my cold idle is like 2000 RPM
but settles down after about 45 seconds.? I really need to do some
extensive driving, been just doing little runs.
Oh.....this would also be a great time for a new PCV valve...very easy to get to...I bought one online for something like $8.
Result
of all this?? No more pop-pop-pop of exhaust when downshifting.? No
more quit of motor when coming to the stop sign at end of exit from
freeway, even with A/C running.? Probably some improvement in mileage.
Anyway, that's the story.? Good luck!
Richard
On Wednesday, March 6, 2024 at 04:52:13 PM PST, jhawkins@... <jhawkins@...> wrote:
Hi everyone
My Van uses a van cafe speed sensor. I've also changed out the IACV with other used ones.
It still stalls coming to a stop almost always. The only time it didn't recently was when the air temperature was in the 30's.? What are your thoughts and what is the best way to test if these are faulty parts?
Thank You!
Jason Hawkins
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2004 2.5 bad idle/stalling
Hi everyone
My Van uses a van cafe speed sensor. I've also changed out the IACV with other used ones.
It still stalls coming to a stop almost always. The only time it didn't recently was when the air temperature was in the 30's.? What are your thoughts and what is the best way to test if these are faulty parts?
Thank You!
Jason Hawkins
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I'd say that was a wrecker item.
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Dr Mark
Duncan
URABUS
Greg