Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
And I neglected to mention at the outset that when I first broke down and tracked the cause to the fuse in the black box, I noticed the bolt that connects the the power to the fused line had broken free of the box and was loose.?
Seems significant now.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Latest update: definitely vibration related. I still believe temperature plays a role, but I¡¯m on a test drive now after replacing the ignition relay. Ran fine as usual for the first 10-15 minutes. It blew right after rolling over a minor bump - but with the vans suspension everything is felt. Replaced the fuse got back on the road and hit a slightly more significant bump and the it blew again.?
About to peak at the starter wiring.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
I hear you. At the outside something like 500W flows through that fuse for a short while, not a small amount of?power, and then whatever caused that flow resets after some (how much?) time elapses.
Not sure where that would be an option - unless it¡¯s inside the relay or the ecu. Just checked pins for this circuit and the only place it goes other than the ignition relay is the back up power pin 42.?
?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Not sure where that would be an option - unless it¡¯s inside the relay or the ecu. Just checked pins for this circuit and the only place it goes other than the ignition relay is the back up power pin 42.?
?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
After reviewing Bentley circuit diagrams for the '85 Digijet, I agree about the fan(s) not likely causing that particular fuse to blow.
Does something in the relevant circuits get hot, expand, and short to ground??
Still trying to figure this out. It looks like the current going through the fuse that blows powers the fuel pump relay, the (brown) ignition relay, and the vss. I have isolated the fuel pump to a separate circuit and the main fuse still blows once the van has been running for a while. Does that mean it must be the ignition relay? Or something inside the ECU related to temperature?
Does anyone have a theory as to why temperature seems to play a role and how the ignition relay would be impacted by it?
after initially suspecting the radiator fan I can¡¯t imagine how it would be interacting with that fuse.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Still trying to figure this out. It looks like the current going through the fuse that blows powers the fuel pump relay, the (brown) ignition relay, and the vss. I have isolated the fuel pump to a separate circuit and the main fuse still blows once the van has been running for a while. Does that mean it must be the ignition relay? Or something inside the ECU related to temperature?
Does anyone have a theory as to why temperature seems to play a role and how the ignition relay would be impacted by it?
after initially suspecting the radiator fan I can¡¯t imagine how it would be interacting with that fuse.?
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Thank You Kevin,
I'll look into that next week.
Steve W,
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Well that ECU is from a 2003 Forester AT (automatic)
?Now if it was converted over to think it was a MT (manual) ECU, One would need to dig into that (a wire and terminal would be needed to be added at connector B136 position 19).? Part of me wants to say yes this was done, Since you didn't say you have automatic based codes??
?I would also see if the neutral switch input is working or not (Connector B136 position 21) and if you can, check to see if you have a Speed signal or not.
Another thing, depending on if the ECU is setup and an automatic or manual transmission, the diagnostics is different (the signal is reversed)
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Re: AC compressor options for SVX EG33
I really appreciate your consideration of the forum guidelines Bindu. A/C adaptation is out there on the fringe of acceptable content for the site. ?If this message thread bogs down into details about specific a/c conversion I¡¯ll probably do my best to nix it. ? That said¡.thanks for your contributions! Best,
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On Jul 12, 2023, at 6:52 PM, Bindu Miller <bindumiller@...> wrote:
Hi Matt and all. This is to reply to the request of pictures of my AC conversion for my EG33. I am reluctant to go into too much detail as this may be considered off topic by the moderators. I am seriously considering posting the detail on thesamba or facebook/Subaru Six Cylinder VW Van Group. I'll let you know--might be a few more days. In the meantime here is a pic or two--? PM me if you have any questions.
Also there was a request for some pics of the behind the dash AC. I installed the kit from SC. Its a HUGE job but well worth it. See pic. <AC_Mod_SVX_txt6.jpg>
<AC_Mod_SVX_txt5.jpg><AC_Mod_SVX_txt4.jpg>
<AC_Install.jpg>AC Install in process
On Sun, Jul 9, 2023 at 10:23?AM Willy Cline via ??<willy12324= [email protected]> wrote: On Sunday, July 9, 2023 at 09:46:39 AM EDT, dontemail2002 < email99@...> wrote:
And also a description, source, and pictures of the behind the dash AC unit.
Thanks,
Ed
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Re: AC compressor options for SVX EG33
Hi Matt and all. This is to reply to the request of pictures of my AC conversion for my EG33. I am reluctant to go into too much detail as this may be considered off topic by the moderators. I am seriously considering posting the detail on thesamba or facebook/Subaru Six Cylinder VW Van Group. I'll let you know--might be a few more days. In the meantime here is a pic or two--? PM me if you have any questions.
Also there was a request for some pics of the behind the dash AC. I installed the kit from SC. Its a HUGE job but well worth it. See pic.  
 AC Install in process
On Sun, Jul 9, 2023 at 10:23?AM Willy Cline via <willy12324= [email protected]> wrote:
On Sunday, July 9, 2023 at 09:46:39 AM EDT, dontemail2002 < email99@...> wrote:
And also a description, source, and pictures of the behind the dash AC unit.
Thanks,
Ed
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Rad fan fuse is 30 amp in the main fuse box
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
If you think its a cooling fan motor just jump the temp switch on radiator and monitor amperage
On Wednesday, July 12, 2023 at 09:58:21 AM PDT, Jeff Morrow <situationiste@...> wrote:
Electric motors drawing maximum current at stall, perhaps a/the fan motor(s) experience rotor drag sufficient to blow the fuse. Maybe blowing has kept windings from cooking.?
30 amp is just what the instructions (busaru) I followed called for when I put it together a few years ago. It¡¯s worked fine til now. I will say that during my initial test drive to trouble shoot this issue I blew the 30 amp and only had a 15 amp fuse available, which worked fine to get me to the gas station. Later on while monitoring amperage on that circuit it was always below 10 - until it blew the 30 I guess. All that to say I¡¯ve got a 15 in there now and will run that going forward once I track down the issue.
Given the apparent relationship to temperature, could it be the radiator fan motor?
any guidance would be appreciated. I¡¯m pretty good at following instruction but I lack the fundamental electrical knowledge to troubleshoot in a methodical way on my own.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Electric motors drawing maximum current at stall, perhaps a/the fan motor(s) experience rotor drag sufficient to blow the fuse. Maybe blowing has kept windings from cooking.?
30 amp is just what the instructions (busaru) I followed called for when I put it together a few years ago. It¡¯s worked fine til now. I will say that during my initial test drive to trouble shoot this issue I blew the 30 amp and only had a 15 amp fuse available, which worked fine to get me to the gas station. Later on while monitoring amperage on that circuit it was always below 10 - until it blew the 30 I guess. All that to say I¡¯ve got a 15 in there now and will run that going forward once I track down the issue.
Given the apparent relationship to temperature, could it be the radiator fan motor?
any guidance would be appreciated. I¡¯m pretty good at following instruction but I lack the fundamental electrical knowledge to troubleshoot in a methodical way on my own.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
30 amp is just what the instructions (busaru) I followed called for when I put it together a few years ago. It¡¯s worked fine til now. I will say that during my initial test drive to trouble shoot this issue I blew the 30 amp and only had a 15 amp fuse available, which worked fine to get me to the gas station. Later on while monitoring amperage on that circuit it was always below 10 - until it blew the 30 I guess. All that to say I¡¯ve got a 15 in there now and will run that going forward once I track down the issue.
Given the apparent relationship to temperature, could it be the radiator fan motor?
any guidance would be appreciated. I¡¯m pretty good at following instruction but I lack the fundamental electrical knowledge to troubleshoot in a methodical way on my own.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Mr. Shields wrote up a description of black box connections and fuses a few years ago.? If you¡¯re curious, search our messages wit the phrase ¡°wiring sanity check¡±. Best
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On Jul 11, 2023, at 6:21 PM, Wayne Sitarz <wesitarz@...> wrote:
?Sounds like battery voltage from the alt to the post in the black box to fuse to harness. New alt sounds like it's the fix. Why a 30 amp fuse? Initially it was 25 amp, then 20, then even 10 amp was recommended was it not? I think I had a 10 amp in there.
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Fuses blow from current. They are controlling a circuit that should have no more than 60% of its amperage. 16 volt alternator charge is only 10% over. theoretically, according to watts law, amperage would go down. the fuse protects something... What? break down the circuit. what is on it, what controls each device and what current each device should? pull. easy ohms law V = A x R. a 16 ohm solenoid will pull .75 amps. What fuse should be there? If it should be a 10, then you have a problem someone is trying to cover. Fuel pumps are usually on 10 or 15 amp fuses and pull 6-8 amps. Electric motors are different, they demand watts(power= volts x amps). If there is a bad connection, the resistance will reduce the voltage to the motor. The motor will draw more amps and blow the fuse. All other electrical consumers, resistance, reducing applied voltage will only result in diminished operation, never blow the fuse. Verify sensing wire for alternator. If that wire is getting fed by the same circuit, as the voltage goes down, alternator charge goes up, overcharge. Assuming its the fuel pump fuse, the relay should isolate it to the only thing on that fuse. If it feeds an ignition circuit, many controls may be affected, including the fuel pump... doesn't mean its the fuel pump... Start with the correct fuse. I hope you all know you can get Alldata, they have a 1 car deal, I think its $60. Thats chump change when I hear all the texts start with a list of unsuccessful replaced parts... ?
On Tuesday, July 11, 2023 at 05:21:30 PM PDT, Wayne Sitarz <wesitarz@...> wrote:
Sounds like battery voltage from the alt to the post in the black box to fuse to harness. New alt sounds like it's the fix. Why a 30 amp fuse? Initially it was 25 amp, then 20, then even 10 amp was recommended was it not? I think I had a 10 amp in there.
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Sounds like battery voltage from the alt to the post in the black box to fuse to harness. New alt sounds like it's the fix. Why a 30 amp fuse? Initially it was 25 amp, then 20, then even 10 amp was recommended was it not? I think I had a 10 amp in there.
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30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Hi all, thanks for adding me. Hoping to get some new ideas on my recent issue. I have a 85 weekender with a 95 ej22. Did the swap myself about 5 years ago and have been on lots of road trips since with no major problems, until now.
Broke down a couple weeks ago on the PA turnpike coming home from camping. At first it was as if there was no gas when I pressed the pedal, then stalled and would not start back up. I was thinking fuel pump.?
Got towed home and replaced the fuel pump, then the fuel pump relay. Finally dawned on me to check wiring which is when I discovered the blown 30 amp fuse in the black box. Replaced it and the van fired right up. I took it for a drive and all seemed well until the engine got heated up. Fuse blew again. Replacing it when hot only gets me a little further down the road. If I let it cool down a bit before trying again I can go further still- so definitely seems temperature related.?
I had an electrical engineer friend help me troubleshoot and we found the the alternator was putting out normal voltage most of the time until the temp got high - then the voltage would go up to 15.8.?
I have a replacement alternator (another used from eBay) on the way, thinking it is the voltage regulator.?
However, just so I have a backup plan in mind should that not solve the issue, I am wondering if there could be other culprits that would cause this fuse to blow at high temps. Hoping to be on the road for a music festival in a week and a half!
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The ECU part # is 22611-AG591, I have driven the van about 1,000 miles since I put it back on the road after having the transaxle rebuilt by GTA I also also installed New CV joints, cooling pipes, heater hoses, thermostat, gas tank, fuel pump, filter, super trans cooler. I installed a RJES throttle cable witch gets the trans to kickdown properly, but it only stays in the lower gear for about 20 seconds or so I thought this could be something to do with a rev limiter but when i down shift on a steep grade it seems to run fine above 4,500 RPM. I got a P0171 code about 250 miles ago and have since replaced some vacuum lines and PCV. Test drove and got this P0851 after about 20 miles'
Steve W.
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Brent Weide