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Re: Engine transplant, oil

KEP
 

Low mileage 8 year old engines rare hard to find, but look some more. If no
luck, go ahead with the 90K. It is not half worn, and if necessary it can
be replaced with a used Jap import engine. The 90K engine will provide the
wiring etc that you cannot get with the used import engines. I do not know
yet how well your 90K wiring will work on '95+ or 2.5 L engines.

Hobert Kennedy
Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550

(661) 272-1147

----- Original Message -----
From: Marshall Ruskin <MRUSKIN@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] Engine transplant, oil


A local yard has a Subaru Legacy FS with 130,000 KM, maybe 90,000 miles.

Is this one too tired to use as a transplant?

TIA

Marshall Ruskin


The Rabbit diesel is unusual, they are happy at high RPM, and would
probably
cruise at 70 on the level. The Subaru will cruise 70 up a pretty good
grade
with less interior noise, but more fuel expense. Total cost of kit and
engine should be about $3000 if you do the work. Allow three days for
the
wiring if you like that work. Allow another three full days for radiator
plumbing and setting the engine, etc. in place. Expect 20 MPG on manual
and
18 MPG on automatic.

Bastards are always hard to sell, bus owners with this kit normally will
refuse to sell for any price.

Hobert Kennedy
Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550

(661) 272-1147
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Brubaker <rmbrubaker@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>; <syncro@...>;
<vanagon@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 2:51 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Engine transplant, oil


Greetings. I am a new subscriber to these Vanagon lists and find them
interesting and helpful. Since '93 I and my wife have been the happy
owners of an '86 GL Syncro, now with 175K miles.

Unfortunately my original engine, in otherwise good running condition
(needs the heads resealed for external coolant leak), needs to be
changed because of contamination of the oil system from a failed oil
filter. This has lead me to consider the options of a different engine.
I have looked at the different options shown on the Vanagon web site.
Maybe I missed something, but is there anyone who has installed a
Turbocharged Diesel with as much or more power than the 2.1L and
capable
of reving high enough to cruise at 70+ mph?

My other interest is in the Subaru conversion. Some questions for those
who have done it.
What was the total cost by the time you were finished?

About how long did it take to complete the job?

Has it given better gas milage? If so how much?

How does this conversion affect the resale value.

Although I have already read a lot about this through the web site and
e-mail groups, I have not yet gotten through all the archives. If the
answers to my questions are already out there, forgive me for asking
again and point me in the right direction.

A comment about oil used. Since I have had this van (68K to 175K) I
have
used only synthetic oil. First Amsoil, than Mobil 1 and now Castrol
Syntec. The engine still has good power and compression and uses no oil
(OK 1/2 qt in 4000 mi). I resently found out that Castrol Syntec is
what
my local VW dealer recomends.

thanks for all the input.

Ray Brubaker



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Re: Subie Transplant Kit, starter question

KEP
 

The '85 starter will usually work but has no reserve. The '86 is rated 0.9
instead of 0.8 PS and is just enough stronger to get the job done and will
fit. The gear reduction starter is rated abuot 1.5 PS.

Hobert Kennedy
Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550

(661) 272-1147

----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Bryson <patrick@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 10:00 AM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Subie Transplant Kit, starter question


Hello All,
#1 I've asked this question before in a couple of other forums with no
response, but i'll give it a try here. I'm looking for a KEP Subie
conversion kit that someone purchased and decided not to use. i'm just
trying to save a buck. I will convert my van whether i pay full price or
not, but untill i save enough 100 dollar bills, i'm keeping my eyes open
for
a deal. Anyone know of one?

#B Is there a less expensive, good quality way to upgrade the starter in
my
'85 Vanagon when i put in the 2.2 without buying from Hobert? Can i just
use any '86 and newer starter?

Thanks for the help!

Patrick
'85 Westy
'73 Thing
'84 911 Targa
'88 Buick really big wagon. 4 sale - engine in wrong end


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Re: Water Pressure Gage?

KEP
 

A simple pressure gage would show the engine had warmed up to the 15 PSI it
should operate at. A differential pressure gage would show a pressure drop
but that is no indication that the water is flowing. A flow meter would
work but not worth the expense and effort. I recommend an aftermarket
temperature gage connected near the outlet of the engine, and enough
presence of mind to notice the red light, then read the gage and if
necessary go to the nearest gas station or source of water. It can go a few
gentle miles without damage when low on water. Subaru engines are cheap to
replace compared to a Waserboxer.

Hobert Kennedy
Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550

(661) 272-1147

----- Original Message -----
From: Ed McKinley <edmc@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 2:14 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Water Pressure Gage?


A brain is a terrible thing to be left on its own without supervision.

I've been thinking again and have a question for Hobert and others.
What about installing a water pressure gage in the copper radiator pipes
that will turn on a red light and, better yet, sound a buzzer at loss of
water pressure that I assume would accompany a burst water hose? Are
there gages sensitive to as low as 5lbs plus/minus? Would steam
production from the overheating engine create enough pressure to defeat
this system?

I have thought about this through the years because I heard so many
stories about vanagon engines destroyed by loss of water. Last few
years, however, I stopped thinking about it because I have now driven my
van over 100k miles (174k total) without any water problems and that
includes repaired heads (pitted heads filled). Only recently has
compression dropped below 100 in two cylinders.

I replaced most my hoses at 110k and am replacing all the heater hoses
this time (Thanks to Ken Wilford of Van-Again). So maybe this is, once
again, redundant behavior.

In my 1970 bus I spliced the oil pressure light into the door buzzer
alarm. I was rewarded the day an oil pressure galley plug blew out and
left a 2.5 quart trail of oil as my wife pulled over to the side of the
road. I think the engine might have gotten cooked if the buzzer didn't
sound. I'm not sure how quickly a driver would notice a red light on a
sunny day.

Too much thinking?


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Re: HELP! Need Subaru Tech: (Still have wrong harness.)

KEP
 

We have not found a difference in the '90-94 computers except part numbers.
Since you have stripped down one harness, take it to a wrecking yard and
find an engine harness that will plug to it, and try to buy just the little
harness that is on the engine. You may need to loosen the intake manifold
bolts to get the harness off the engine.

Hobert Kennedy
Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550

(661) 272-1147

----- Original Message -----
From: Warren Chapman <tallsound@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 12:52 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] HELP! Need Subaru Tech: (Still have wrong harness.)


For prospective converters,

ONCE AGAIN, just can't stress enough the value of BEING SURE you can
verify that all the required items are from the same vehicle:
OTHERWISE KEEP LOOKING UNTIL YOU DO!!

I bought my parts from a reputable and knowledgable salvage yard that
stated they were very familiar with this conversion. Well... so far
they've sent me two separate harnesses. The first one took me a few
hours to figure out that it was wrong one. I found out later that not
only was it the wrong one, but that only half of the harness was sent
(there are two sections which connect together.)

The second one came two weeks later, and I spent a whole week
stripping and matching wires only to find out that the two main large
(grey) plugs which connect to the harness on the engine do not match.
Now what?? What else might not match?? Since the harness doesn't
match the engine, is it possible that the computer might not either.

To avoid future problems, should I start over from scratch with a
whole new set (engine, harness, computer).... this time certain to
come from the same vehicle.

Can't proceed until I get some answers.

Does anyone out there know:
1. Is there is any difference in computers from 90-94.
2. Do auto and manual shift cars have the same computer?? Is there a
chance for a mismatch?
3. If neither 1. and 2. above matter, perhaps I can just get the
correct plugs to match my engine and splice them in.

Appreciate any feedback. Anyone know a good Subaru tech who could
answer these questions.

Warren C.


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Re: Subaru camshaft issue -- rust -- what do I do

KEP
 

Sorry, I have no experience to help you with one this problem.

Hobert Kennedy
Kennedy Engineered Products
38830 17th St. East
Palmdale, CA 93550

(661) 272-1147

----- Original Message -----
From: John Mates <JMATES@...>
To: <jmates@...>; <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 8:55 AM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Subaru camshaft issue -- rust -- what do I do



Hi!

I've been slowing doing a Subaru/Kennedy conversion to my Vanagon
Syncro. I've run into a worrisome problem...

I decided to replace the timing belt and the camshaft oil seals and
the front and rear main seals before running my 1994 Legacy 2.2
engine in the Vanagon. I also obeyed the Subaru manual to check the
hydraulic lift adjusters after replacing the timing belt, etc. So
I did ...

ALL the adjusters had air in them. Every last one of them (16). So
I learned how to get the air out. But, in the process I noticed two
unpleasant things about my right side camshaft. One of the lobes was
"pitted" slightly, right at the peak (minimum radius of curvature).
I decided that short of replacing the camshaft, there was nothing I
could do about this. The second issue was that there was RUST on all
of the cam surfaces. I used a brass brush and all of it came off
pretty nicely, EXCEPT from one lobe. This lobe remains scratchy and
bumpy to a fingernail rubbed across it...

I reassembled everything, but now I wonder if I shouldn't open up
the valve cover on the right side again and rub that lobe with some
fine emery cloth or something to at least make it smooth.

To replace the camshaft and this animal, you must remove the whole
head. I don't want to do that.

Please send me your best advice, even if it will be hard for me to
hear!

John
jmates@...

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Re: HELP! Need Subaru Tech: (Still have wrong harness.)

Jay Gardner
 

Warren,

yes there are differences and the Subaru techs have a book that details
which computer
will run with which air box etc. they will all plug in as normal I believe
but not run properly
you need the # off the comp.

The wrecking yard you are using seems to be consistently reassuring people
that
A. we do these all the time
b. have more experience in it
c. and then sending the wrong parts out of different cars

I know that was my experience as well as Rev. Brian in Orinda
They are carrying on the tradition with yours.

There is a subaru guru at a Bay area dealership and he is up on all this.

Call me and I'll get you the number for Subaru Guru

Jay
1985 Vubaru
(farphrumleakin)

----- Original Message -----
From: Warren Chapman <tallsound@...>
To: <subaruvanagon@...>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 12:52 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] HELP! Need Subaru Tech: (Still have wrong harness.)


For prospective converters,

ONCE AGAIN, just can't stress enough the value of BEING SURE you can
verify that all the required items are from the same vehicle:
OTHERWISE KEEP LOOKING UNTIL YOU DO!!

I bought my parts from a reputable and knowledgable salvage yard that
stated they were very familiar with this conversion. Well... so far
they've sent me two separate harnesses. The first one took me a few
hours to figure out that it was wrong one. I found out later that not
only was it the wrong one, but that only half of the harness was sent
(there are two sections which connect together.)

The second one came two weeks later, and I spent a whole week
stripping and matching wires only to find out that the two main large
(grey) plugs which connect to the harness on the engine do not match.
Now what?? What else might not match?? Since the harness doesn't
match the engine, is it possible that the computer might not either.

To avoid future problems, should I start over from scratch with a
whole new set (engine, harness, computer).... this time certain to
come from the same vehicle.

Can't proceed until I get some answers.

Does anyone out there know:
1. Is there is any difference in computers from 90-94.
2. Do auto and manual shift cars have the same computer?? Is there a
chance for a mismatch?
3. If neither 1. and 2. above matter, perhaps I can just get the
correct plugs to match my engine and splice them in.

Appreciate any feedback. Anyone know a good Subaru tech who could
answer these questions.

Warren C.


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89 Syncro 13,000 miles since conversion

 

Hello everyone
I am a new member to this group and was delighted to see something on
this subject on the net. I have put 13,000 miles on my 89 Syncro
Camper since the Kennedy conversion and would be happy to describe my
experience with the conversion and give advice, exspecially to the
fello Syncro owners. I have lots of experience with vibrating drive
shafts also. Any way, I am going to finish typing and start checking
out this site.
Hope to hear from you;
Richard


To Warren,

Ed McKinley
 

Warren, It appears that you are relatively close to Ron's and my
vanagon loctaions in Mendocino county. You might want to make a trip up
here before you install your engine to see what it looks like. I expect
to complete my swap by the middle of June.

Alternatively, if I successfully complete mine in time for my daughter's
college graduation ceremony my van will be in Alemeda the weekend of
June 17. Could possibly meet you in Marin county on our way down on
Friday afternoon the 16th.

As noted by the Meyers brothers, it is very handy to see what the end
product will look like.


Re: HELP! Need Subaru Tech: (Still have wrong harness.)

Ed McKinley
 

Hobert will tell you (and did in the instructions) that the automatic subaru harness is ok.? Most Subarus are automatic.? My wrecking yard sent everything!? It included an additional controller box for the a/t.? Following Hobert's culling instructions will leave you with what you need and the remainder makes for impressive photos that will make people think that you are both crazy and an electrical genius.

Wire colors could likely be different.? Both mine and Ron Bloomguist's harness had some wires with different colors and even had one or two wires going to different computer terminals than shown in Hobert's list. We even had some wire color differences between our harnesses and they are both 1991's. The wiring diagram, once again, saved the day.

I will defer on the matching computer questions because I don't know.? You can ask the Subaru parts department what computer numbers are interchangeable. This problem surley won't require an entirely new set. Keep your engine or your wrecking yard will never talk to you again!.

When you find out what year the harness is I suggest getting wiring diagrams for both the engine and harness, if different years, and sort it out.? The computer should govern because it needs the right wires in the correct slots.? In theory you could build your own harness from scratch by following the wiring diagram that goes with the computer.

Splicing new engine plugs should not be a problem if you can get the plugs that match your engine.? You have to splice to shorten all the wires going to the plugs anyway so no big deal.? But you will have to, in the case of harness and engines from different vehicles,? trace the wires from your engine plug to where they go on the engine to make sure the corresponding wire on the harness plug matches in function.

Ron Bloomquist traced all his engine plug wires to there sources on his engine while solving what turned out to be a minor problem.? He took a lot of time with this and made diagrams.?? When I did my harness, all my harness plug pins matched in function with Ron's drawings so I didn't trace the wires to the engine terminuses (if that is a real word).

Good luck... It will work out!

Warren Chapman wrote:

For prospective converters,

Can't proceed until I get some answers.

Does anyone out there know:
1.? Is there is any difference in computers from 90-94.
2.? Do auto and manual shift cars have the same computer?? Is there a
chance for a mismatch?
3.? If neither 1. and 2. above matter, perhaps I can just get the
correct plugs to match my engine and splice them in.

Appreciate any feedback.? Anyone know a good Subaru tech who could
answer these questions.

Warren C.


Water Pressure Gage?

Ed McKinley
 

A brain is a terrible thing to be left on its own without supervision.

I've been thinking again and have a question for Hobert and others.
What about installing a water pressure gage in the copper radiator pipes
that will turn on a red light and, better yet, sound a buzzer at loss of
water pressure that I assume would accompany a burst water hose? Are
there gages sensitive to as low as 5lbs plus/minus? Would steam
production from the overheating engine create enough pressure to defeat
this system?

I have thought about this through the years because I heard so many
stories about vanagon engines destroyed by loss of water. Last few
years, however, I stopped thinking about it because I have now driven my
van over 100k miles (174k total) without any water problems and that
includes repaired heads (pitted heads filled). Only recently has
compression dropped below 100 in two cylinders.

I replaced most my hoses at 110k and am replacing all the heater hoses
this time (Thanks to Ken Wilford of Van-Again). So maybe this is, once
again, redundant behavior.

In my 1970 bus I spliced the oil pressure light into the door buzzer
alarm. I was rewarded the day an oil pressure galley plug blew out and
left a 2.5 quart trail of oil as my wife pulled over to the side of the
road. I think the engine might have gotten cooked if the buzzer didn't
sound. I'm not sure how quickly a driver would notice a red light on a
sunny day.

Too much thinking?


HELP! Need Subaru Tech: (Still have wrong harness.)

Warren Chapman
 

For prospective converters,

ONCE AGAIN, just can't stress enough the value of BEING SURE you can
verify that all the required items are from the same vehicle:
OTHERWISE KEEP LOOKING UNTIL YOU DO!!

I bought my parts from a reputable and knowledgable salvage yard that
stated they were very familiar with this conversion. Well... so far
they've sent me two separate harnesses. The first one took me a few
hours to figure out that it was wrong one. I found out later that not
only was it the wrong one, but that only half of the harness was sent
(there are two sections which connect together.)

The second one came two weeks later, and I spent a whole week
stripping and matching wires only to find out that the two main large
(grey) plugs which connect to the harness on the engine do not match.
Now what?? What else might not match?? Since the harness doesn't
match the engine, is it possible that the computer might not either.

To avoid future problems, should I start over from scratch with a
whole new set (engine, harness, computer).... this time certain to
come from the same vehicle.

Can't proceed until I get some answers.

Does anyone out there know:
1. Is there is any difference in computers from 90-94.
2. Do auto and manual shift cars have the same computer?? Is there a
chance for a mismatch?
3. If neither 1. and 2. above matter, perhaps I can just get the
correct plugs to match my engine and splice them in.

Appreciate any feedback. Anyone know a good Subaru tech who could
answer these questions.

Warren C.


Subaru camshaft issue -- rust -- what do I do

John Mates
 

Hi!

I've been slowing doing a Subaru/Kennedy conversion to my Vanagon
Syncro. I've run into a worrisome problem...

I decided to replace the timing belt and the camshaft oil seals and
the front and rear main seals before running my 1994 Legacy 2.2
engine in the Vanagon. I also obeyed the Subaru manual to check the
hydraulic lift adjusters after replacing the timing belt, etc. So
I did ...

ALL the adjusters had air in them. Every last one of them (16). So
I learned how to get the air out. But, in the process I noticed two
unpleasant things about my right side camshaft. One of the lobes was
"pitted" slightly, right at the peak (minimum radius of curvature).
I decided that short of replacing the camshaft, there was nothing I
could do about this. The second issue was that there was RUST on all
of the cam surfaces. I used a brass brush and all of it came off
pretty nicely, EXCEPT from one lobe. This lobe remains scratchy and
bumpy to a fingernail rubbed across it...

I reassembled everything, but now I wonder if I shouldn't open up
the valve cover on the right side again and rub that lobe with some
fine emery cloth or something to at least make it smooth.

To replace the camshaft and this animal, you must remove the whole
head. I don't want to do that.

Please send me your best advice, even if it will be hard for me to
hear!

John
jmates@...


Stopping selfsent messages returning

 

How do I set it so that my own messages don't come back to me?

Andrew


Re: Subaru Torque

Tom Myers
 

Can anyone comment on the difference in low RPM torque (1500-2500?rpm) between the 2.2 Sub conversion and the standard 2.1L WBX.
Is the Sub better or worse?

Every day I reverse up a steep driveway in close quarters.? If there was less torque I would not be happy.?? Subaru 2.2L is noticeably torquier than WBX even at idle.

Tom
--
+------------------------------------+
|? CycoActive Products ??????????? tel (206) 323-2349
|? 701 34th Ave? ??????????? fax (206) 325-6016
|? Seattle, WA 98122??? USA
|? webpage:?? http://www.cycoactive.com
|? e-mail:? TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+


Subaru Torque

John P
 

开云体育

Can anyone comment on the difference in low RPM torque (1500-2500?rpm) between the 2.2 Sub conversion and the standard 2.1L WBX.
Is the Sub better or worse?


Re: starting engine

Tom Myers
 

I'm getting ready to install my subaru engine. It has been sitting
quietly for 6 months since its host vehicle got rear ended.

Does anyone have any recommendations about preparing an engine for
starting. My concern is that the oil may have drained down and most the
bearing surfaces may be dry.

Many years ago, when I worked on the air the cooled engines we used a
very, very viscous oil on all the moving parts if the engine was going
to sit for any time and even if it was going right in.
I've taken apart engines that have sat for years, and the parts are not dry. Six months is nothing. I'd just start it.

Tom
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| webpage:
| e-mail: TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+


(No subject)

Ed McKinley
 

I'm getting ready to install my subaru engine. It has been sitting
quietly for 6 months since its host vehicle got rear ended.

Does anyone have any recommendations about preparing an engine for
starting. My concern is that the oil may have drained down and most the
bearing surfaces may be dry.

Many years ago, when I worked on the air the cooled engines we used a
very, very viscous oil on all the moving parts if the engine was going
to sit for any time and even if it was going right in.


Subaru engine prices in NZ

 

I'm surprised to find that US prices for used Subaru engines are so high,
especially as it seems that you get SOHC versions there.

Here in New Zealand you can get a DOHC EJ20 (Legacy 2.0) for $350US. DOHC
EJ20 single-turbo for $750US. DOHC EG33 (SVX) for $2250. Haven't seen EJ18
or EJ22 (1.8 and 2.2 Legacy) prices yet. Add about $250 for complete
electrics. A dealer in Japan offered me a 290hp WRX Type RA EJ20
single-turbo for $1800US including shipping, with full electrics and
5-speed trans and driveshafts (I was thinking of modifying the trans case
to flip the diff and use in my Vanagon). Many of these are brought in from
Japan, either out-of-car or still mounted in wrecks brought in for parts.

I am told also that the Legacy auto trans is weak and often gives problems.
Others have told me that the 5-speed is weak too, but have doubts about
that.

Shame Subaru never produced a dieselboxer, though I'm sure they made
prototypes. How about a turbodiesel DOHC 24V diesel six boxer?

Has anyone tried modifying a Subaru trans to run backward for rear-engined
application?

Andrew
Dunedin
New Zealand


Andrew Grebneff
Dunedin
New Zealand
Molluscophile
69 VW Kombi-Corvair
75 VW Kombi (ex Toyota 3.5 V8)
84 VW T3 Caravelle GL/SVX
85 Mitsubishi Sigma Super Saloon 2.0
86 Toyota Corolla DX 1.8 diesel
89 Toyota Corona Select 2.0 diesel


Porsche trans in Vanaru?

 

I'm a new member of this list, having seen the announcement of its
beginning on vanagon.com. I guess most members are vanagon.com as well?

I am gathering parts and information for my 84 Caravelle's upcoming
conversion. Currently it is fitted with a 174hp 3.8liter V6 from a VN
Holden Commodore (Holden is the Australian GM division). The 094 5-speed
was in the process of failing when I bought it, and I wanted to fit a
Porsche trans. However then I decided that as the heavy iron anchor causes
serious understeer, I should go to Subaru power.

I bought a 250hp 3.3liter EG33 engine from an SVX wreck in Japan. This will
be desmogged and run an aftermarket computer, so should produce 260hp or a
bit more. Engine cost $1250US; I could have had the computer etc from
another Jap wreck for a further $250US, but due to uncertainty as to how
well this would work (I know Hobert Kennedy of KEP is working on the SVX
electrics now, but the US wiring etc is unlikely to be compatible with a
Japanese-market engine system, and it could end up extremely expensive to
get fitted from scratch) I passed this up and just grabbed the ignitor for
$27.

As I have serious doubts about any VW trans to handle 200hp-plus I brought
a late-type (aluminum-case) Porsche 915 trans in from the States. I have
found out how to do most of the fitting of this to the van, but it will
need shifter, front mount and output flange adaptors fabricated. As VW
axles can break under severe loadings use of Porsche 930 CVs is judged
wise, and the 915 drive flanges, which accept VW CVs, need adaptor plates
made. After the trans is fitted I can measure things up and order
Sway-a-Way axles. This seems seriously fiddly. Nobody makes a full kit,
though Weddle sells SAW axles, 930 CVs, 930 stubaxles etc for a decent
price, it lacks shifter adaptor, front mount and 930 output flanges.

Does anybody have experience fitting one of these trans?

The Getrag G50 trans, fitted to later 911s, is far stronger and
better-shifting than the 915, and is just about bulletproof. I think I have
found a G50-Vanagon kit in Germany. Apparently it is complete, including
short-bellhousing trans, mount, shifter adaptor, CVs (G50-equipped 911s use
930 CVs), stubaxles, axles etc, all for DM4500 ($2250US). It was offered to
my by Claer Automabile through an e-mail intermediary who doesn't know
cars. Herr Claer is not on e-mail, says through this lady that I can reach
him by fax. However, though he speaks good Englisch, he doesn't reply
directly to my faxes, but passes them via his friend, who doesn't like it.
Has anyone else been in contact with Herr Claer?

The G50 kit will not cost all that much more than the 915 plus incomplete
kit, and when fabrication and labor are taken into account for the 915, the
supposedly bolt-in G50 kit may actually be cheaper, as well as much easier.


I need to claerify this business before I can make an order, either for the
Claer or Weddle kit. German Vanagon nuts and websites haven't been of any
help. Can anyone on this list help?

Andrew Grebneff
Dunedin
New Zealand

Andrew Grebneff
Dunedin
New Zealand
Molluscophile
69 VW Kombi-Corvair
75 VW Kombi (ex Toyota 3.5 V8)
84 VW T3 Caravelle GL/SVX
85 Mitsubishi Sigma Super Saloon 2.0
86 Toyota Corolla DX 1.8 diesel
89 Toyota Corona Select 2.0 diesel


Subie Transplant Kit, starter question

Patrick Bryson
 

Hello All,
#1 I've asked this question before in a couple of other forums with no
response, but i'll give it a try here. I'm looking for a KEP Subie
conversion kit that someone purchased and decided not to use. i'm just
trying to save a buck. I will convert my van whether i pay full price or
not, but untill i save enough 100 dollar bills, i'm keeping my eyes open for
a deal. Anyone know of one?

#B Is there a less expensive, good quality way to upgrade the starter in my
'85 Vanagon when i put in the 2.2 without buying from Hobert? Can i just
use any '86 and newer starter?

Thanks for the help!

Patrick
'85 Westy
'73 Thing
'84 911 Targa
'88 Buick really big wagon. 4 sale - engine in wrong end