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Re: hard start symptoms, intermittent, no cel hooked up.

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

if I suspect fuel getting in when it shouldn't ..
I would go directly the seals at the bottom of the bowl each injector
sits in .
If those leak ..
and they do deteriorate ..
fuel goes right into a cylinder . or cylinders. ..
any time there is fuel pressure. ..
engine doesn't even have to run.

On 5/5/2012 8:11 PM, Don wrote:



--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "dmz" <dmzwesty@...> wrote:

This is a 94 ej22 in a 4 speed van.
................. only noticed it when the engine is warm.

Engine spins nicely from the starter without any hint of starting.
No sputtering, coughing etc, just like spinning it without any plugs.


Gas pedal all the way down and held there, after about 10 long
seconds it sounds like one cylinder starts to fire, then 2.
With the pedal held down, after a total of 20-30 seconds of cranking
the rest come on, sputtering, then full on.

.......................................
Sounds like a classic case of over fueling. When you hold throttle in
WOT the ECU runs in 'clear flood' mode. That is, the injectors do not
fire until engine rpm's reach a target speed of over 600 rpm or so, or
when you reduce throttle opening to control rpm's as the engine fires up.

I would check injectors for weeping or over pressure from the fuel
pressure control. This will mean measuring the fuel pressure.

After shut down warm, you need to watch pressure and see if it drops
to zero too quickly. In a warm engine, to little fuel pressure will
allow the fuel to boil in the injection system and when you restart a
warm engine, all that's being injected is vapor....a very lean mixture.

Most FI systems hold around 25 to 30 psi fuel pressure for 20 minutes
to prevent vapor lock re starts.

regards

dk


Re: Thoughts on aluminum crank pulley

 

Matt:
You could probably use more rotating mass, not less.
Craig

--- On Sat, 5/5/12, Matt <mattsewalson@...> wrote:

From: Matt <mattsewalson@...>
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Thoughts on aluminum crank pulley
To: subaruvanagon@...
Date: Saturday, May 5, 2012, 10:47 PM
















?









Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are on aluminum crank pulley. A co worker recommended I get one because of weight and increase in horse power.

Thanks,

Matt



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Thoughts on aluminum crank pulley

Larry Hamm
 

On 5/5/2012 9:47 PM, Matt wrote:
Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are on aluminum crank pulley.
A co worker recommended I get one because of weight and increase in
horse power. Thanks, Matt
Snake oil.

Larry H.


Thoughts on aluminum crank pulley

 

Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are on aluminum crank pulley. A co worker recommended I get one because of weight and increase in horse power.
Thanks,
Matt


Re: hard start symptoms, intermittent, no cel hooked up.

 

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "dmz" <dmzwesty@...> wrote:

This is a 94 ej22 in a 4 speed van.
................. only noticed it when the engine is warm.

Engine spins nicely from the starter without any hint of starting.
No sputtering, coughing etc, just like spinning it without any plugs.


Gas pedal all the way down and held there, after about 10 long seconds it sounds like one cylinder starts to fire, then 2.
With the pedal held down, after a total of 20-30 seconds of cranking the rest come on, sputtering, then full on.

.......................................
Sounds like a classic case of over fueling. When you hold throttle in WOT the ECU runs in 'clear flood' mode. That is, the injectors do not fire until engine rpm's reach a target speed of over 600 rpm or so, or when you reduce throttle opening to control rpm's as the engine fires up.

I would check injectors for weeping or over pressure from the fuel pressure control. This will mean measuring the fuel pressure.

After shut down warm, you need to watch pressure and see if it drops to zero too quickly. In a warm engine, to little fuel pressure will allow the fuel to boil in the injection system and when you restart a warm engine, all that's being injected is vapor....a very lean mixture.

Most FI systems hold around 25 to 30 psi fuel pressure for 20 minutes to prevent vapor lock re starts.

regards

dk


Re: hard start symptoms, intermittent, Now with cel (thanks Tom)

dmz
 

I probably should have mentioned somewhere in there, this is a 4 speed vanagon, 1985, with a 1994 ej22

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "dmz" <dmzwesty@> wrote:

This is a 94 ej22 in a 4 speed van.


Re: hard start symptoms, intermittent, Now with cel (thanks Tom)

dmz
 

With huge thanks to Tom Shiels, I now have a cel!
(think of Tom Hanks on the beach "I ! have FIRE!"

anyway..Lots of codes.
Black only (stored codes) 21, 24, 35, 13

Green only, and at idle only, just 35.
Green only, rev to about 2000 for 60 seconds and I get:
35,51,33,
and I THOUGHT that I saw 21 one time, but I'm not positive, and have not been able to duplicate.


Researching the archive, looks like I can ignore 51? If I'm reading this correctly 51 is neutral switch?

That leaves in the stored memory:
13 -Cam position sensor or circuit

21 -Coolant temperature sensor or circuit

24 -Air control valve or circuit (exc. Justy); Idle speed control solenoid valve (Justy)

35 -Canister purge solenoid or circuit

And in the test mode:

51 (to be ignored)
35
33 -Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) or circuit _ Why would 33 not be in the stored codes?

Additional info on running characteristics:
The van starts up when cold nicely, though will bog down if I try to drive right away, I need to keep the revs up for a minute or 2.

Then drives pretty nice until it gets warmed up, at which point it misses badly, very low power. THIS is my major problem right now, once warm I can only give it a little throttle or misses badly.

I am assuming the hard start problem, with full throttle required, is because of engine flooding, though this is an intermittent problem, occurring about 20% of the time when the motor is warm.

With the oxy. sensor un-plugged, same result.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "dmz" <dmzwesty@...> wrote:

This is a 94 ej22 in a 4 speed van.

Intermittent hard start, only noticed it when the engine is warm.

Engine spins nicely from the starter without any hint of starting.
No sputtering, coughing etc, just like spinning it without any plugs.

Only way I've found to start it when it's in this mode is following:

Gas pedal all the way down and held there, after about 10 long seconds it sounds like one cylinder starts to fire, then 2.
With the pedal held down, after a total of 20-30 seconds of cranking the rest come on, sputtering, then full on.

Once running and in this mode, idle is much higher than the normal.
No tach but I'm guesstimating around 1500-2000.

As long as the idle is elevated like this, I know that if I turn off the engine it will require the above method to start again.

This may last a day or two, then disappear for several or 6 months.

Ideas of possible causes would be appreciated!


Re: Looking for 'Flip Kit' Advice

Rob
 

At 5/5/2012 11:30 AM,Ian Speakman wrote:
Richard at RJES does one and owning one myself I can say that they are excellent quality and do the job great.
Ok, found it




Rob
becida@...


Re: help with 3 codes

Jimmy Gouge
 

Just curious what kind of mileage you are getting.

Thanks
Jimmy

--- VW/Porsche Type4 Air Cooled 2270cc-175HP / 165lb Torque motor waiting
to go into some kind of a van.



On Sat, May 5, 2012 at 1:09 PM, theoldred90 <tbmccarney@...> wrote:

**


Hello,
I have 3 codes that I cannot get rid of. A little help please

1985 auto -- 1996 subaru 2.2 - i have the small car Interface Board

P0453 - Evap system pressure sensor high input

p1101 - neutral position switch circuit high input

p0461 - fuel level sensor circuit / performance

the van is running great, the gas mileage is a little low. Thanks for the
help




--
I've come to the end of the road, it is called Lopez Island, I will die
here but not today-----


help with 3 codes

theoldred90
 

Hello,
I have 3 codes that I cannot get rid of. A little help please

1985 auto -- 1996 subaru 2.2 - i have the small car Interface Board

P0453 - Evap system pressure sensor high input

p1101 - neutral position switch circuit high input

p0461 - fuel level sensor circuit / performance

the van is running great, the gas mileage is a little low. Thanks for the help


Re: Looking for 'Flip Kit' Advice

 

Richard at RJES does one and owning one myself I can say that they are excellent quality and do the job great.


Re: Looking for 'Flip Kit' Advice

PaulWye
 

Sorry I was not more clear - An Intake Manifold 'Flip-Kit" was what I had intened to ask....Thanks!

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "larryalofs" <alofs@...> wrote:

Define "Flip Kit" please.


Re: Loss Power, CEL O2 Code, and smog test.

 

...didn't konw that, thanks for the info.

I fixed my problem in the end.

Stuck injectors. I had a faulted injector intially (0 Ohms) which I discarded. The ones I replaced in there were from a 20 year old manifold sitting in my garage. I thought, "what's the chance they are all stuck" as I tried all 4 of the replacement ones. turns out...100% are stuck.

I Soaked them in seaform for 24 hours and connected 12Vdc in quick pulses.


All problems cured, including O2.

Thanks,

Andy Malec

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "iiigoiii" <iiigoiii@...> wrote:

remember that when the ECU can't control the idle adequately via the IAC, it can resort to shutting off one or two injectors to slow the engine. this results in a lower, but rough idle. it can also lead you to the conclusion that injectors are not working if you test them only at idle.

it's also not uncommon to see the O2 sensor pegged at the low or high voltages when the engine is warming up or undergoing transients (like hard deceleration, etc), if the engine is temporarily running rich or lean out of the bounds of the ECU's correction ability, or in open loop.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "andymalec" <andymalec@> wrote:

Hi,

Need Help with an O2 sensor code (91 EJ22 in a 85 Vanagon) #32 and some rough running.
I have about 25K miles, 5 years, on my conversion, but it's smog time again here in California and, wouldn't 'cha know it, it decides to start throwing codes all over the place. Can't show up with a CEL a the smog test. It had been sitting mostly unused for the past year (light use). Anyway, here's the recent problems:

1)Code #15 (#2 Injector)- verified open loop on multimeter, should be 11.5 Ohms...replaced, code gone, thank you ECU.

2)Code #32 (O2 Sensor)- Replaced O2 sensor, code eventually showed back up. Scan tool shows Voltage not varying from .2 to .8 in a nice sine pattern. This was true for the old and new O2 sensor. It appears to peg near .1 volts for long time, but I've seem .8 too so it does change when revving sometimes. Rich, lean, ? either way don't' know what I can do about it.

3)Rough idle - Probably a symptom of problem #2. Tried new spark plug, spark plug wires, swapping coil, new Temp sensor (for ECU), different ECU, checked EGR Valve, sea-foaming the IAC....

The van has a loss of power when driving, but drives. When revving in the drive way, it sounds like it backfires a bit, kind of like a downshifting race car, only cool if you're a race car and not going for a smog test. Something is not right with the way the exhaust sounds when driving a full throttle. Sounds like a weaker whooshing noise that that growl I know and love. I've concentrated my efforts on the top end and sensors. I think the O2 is a red herring but don't know what else to do....mouse in the tailpipe..? I'm not sure if it really ran better after replacing the injector.

Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Andy Malec
Ventura, CA


Re: Bay Window Project

Kent or Jackie Ashton
 

let me google that for you :)

On May 3, 2012, at 11:57 PM, Eric Wester wrote:

I am looking at doing a suby conversion on a bay window model VW. Anybody have any experience. Thanks.





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Loss Power, CEL O2 Code, and smog test.

 

remember that when the ECU can't control the idle adequately via the IAC, it can resort to shutting off one or two injectors to slow the engine. this results in a lower, but rough idle. it can also lead you to the conclusion that injectors are not working if you test them only at idle.

it's also not uncommon to see the O2 sensor pegged at the low or high voltages when the engine is warming up or undergoing transients (like hard deceleration, etc), if the engine is temporarily running rich or lean out of the bounds of the ECU's correction ability, or in open loop.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "andymalec" <andymalec@...> wrote:

Hi,

Need Help with an O2 sensor code (91 EJ22 in a 85 Vanagon) #32 and some rough running.
I have about 25K miles, 5 years, on my conversion, but it's smog time again here in California and, wouldn't 'cha know it, it decides to start throwing codes all over the place. Can't show up with a CEL a the smog test. It had been sitting mostly unused for the past year (light use). Anyway, here's the recent problems:

1)Code #15 (#2 Injector)- verified open loop on multimeter, should be 11.5 Ohms...replaced, code gone, thank you ECU.

2)Code #32 (O2 Sensor)- Replaced O2 sensor, code eventually showed back up. Scan tool shows Voltage not varying from .2 to .8 in a nice sine pattern. This was true for the old and new O2 sensor. It appears to peg near .1 volts for long time, but I've seem .8 too so it does change when revving sometimes. Rich, lean, ? either way don't' know what I can do about it.

3)Rough idle - Probably a symptom of problem #2. Tried new spark plug, spark plug wires, swapping coil, new Temp sensor (for ECU), different ECU, checked EGR Valve, sea-foaming the IAC....

The van has a loss of power when driving, but drives. When revving in the drive way, it sounds like it backfires a bit, kind of like a downshifting race car, only cool if you're a race car and not going for a smog test. Something is not right with the way the exhaust sounds when driving a full throttle. Sounds like a weaker whooshing noise that that growl I know and love. I've concentrated my efforts on the top end and sensors. I think the O2 is a red herring but don't know what else to do....mouse in the tailpipe..? I'm not sure if it really ran better after replacing the injector.

Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Andy Malec
Ventura, CA


Re: Fuel Injector choices...

 

i also wasn't able to remove my injectors from the fuel rail; they were stuck in there good after 20 years. i used one of the two big injector cleaner services, who charge a little extra if you simply send them the whole rail and they remove the injectors themselves.

in my case they only increased the spray and efficiently marginally (accoring to their own tests) and sent one injector back completely stuck, which i had to return to them again to unstick.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Leon Korkin <korkwood@...> wrote:

It takes special tool to remove injectors without destroying them.
There are many fuel injector cleaning companies all around USA, much
better deal than buying new ones
they replace O-rings and caps and give you complete report about before
and after flow rate
Leon



On 5/1/2012 12:07 PM, Peter Sharp wrote:

1995 EJ120 DOHC non turbo ....... European build standard.

Scott

However did you manage to dismantle the darned things? I spent hours
trying to removed the injectors from their seatings but gave up in the
end lest I damaged them. Also, where did you find the replacement
rubbers? Be a good idea to buy some in before I attempt another
dismantling session!

Pete...


Enjoying my quiet power steering

 

I recently invited a potential convertee over to view and drive my 2.2 '86 Westy. I think we both learned a few things. He commented on the buzzing noise my engine has made (ever since the van was converted in Berkeley many years ago, using KEP parts.) I finally looked into it and the harmonics in the power steering seem to be telegraphing up to the steering rack. Actually kind of annoying to listen to at a stop light. I was advised that a NEW pump could help. But, as many folks have commented on the need for the high pressure hose to have a dampening restrictor inside of it, I tried that route.
I spoke w/ Mike @ Rocky Mountain Westy about the High Pressure hose they supply in their conversion kit. He said they use a new stock-like Subaru hose and also a section to adapt it to the vanagon plumbing. (also comes w/ some mounting hardware) He said he had not had any complaints of power steering noise from these. So I installed one of his and did as he recommended to refill and bleed to system: With front wheels off the ground, cycle the steering lock to lock a dozen times, being vigilant to watch the reservoir fluid level. My noisy power steering is finally quiet, and now I can hear my Walker muffler's guts rattle. The steering takes a just bit more effort than before, but feels fine. Fluid level is still right up there, too, so any air must have left.
Thank you Mike and Rocky Mountain Westy


(No subject)

 

The intake is higher , so I cut a 6x6 hole in the lid and glue a piece of plexi- glass over the opening.


Looking for an exhaust manifold

 

We're installing a 2006 EJ25 in a 2WD 91 Westy with an auto tranny. We're using a KEP engine support. Is there a used steel or stainless steel exhaust manifold out there?
Best regards.


Bay Window Project

Eric Wester
 

I am looking at doing a suby conversion on a bay window model VW. ?Anybody have any experience. ?Thanks.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]