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Re: Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion
Thanks Bob. The initial request was actually related to a Subaru conversion. I was questioning the higher 2.5L hp Subaru when linked with the lower hp rated VW transmission. I believe I am leaning toward your suggestion.
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Thanks for your insight. Tom To: subaruvanagon@... |
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Re: Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion
Thanks Don, I appreciate your life experience.
Tom To: subaruvanagon@... From: dkveuro@... Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:28:41 +0000 Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion --- In subaruvanagon@..., "surfervan91" <tomdueck@...> wrote: .................regear 3rd and 4th in my Westy tranny to accommodate the new engine.Here's what I know: No early diesel engined Vanagon transmission is strong enough for anything over 150 lbs ft torque. Seen two break and one owner was secretly happy it broke so he could install a later trans. Those trans rev's at 60 mph are 4200 to 4500 rpm. The 1.6 diesel was governed to 5200 rpm....VW built it as a city delivery van during the 1980's oil crisis never intending it to run at max for hours on end. The later 1984 up transmissions where prone to spin the 3/4 gear set due to torque loading...VW welded later 89/99 up gear sets. These give 4000 rpm at 70mph on stock size wheels and tyres. Even the later trans will break the hub in the 3/4 gear set over 150 lbs ft torque and will do so more often if low 3/4 gears are installed. The reason being, that at the 60 to 70mph rpm, the engine works harder to maintain speed and therefore more time is spent under peak torque loading. With a more powerful engine this happens a lot. There are companies claiming to build these transmissions to get the rpm's down to 3500 rpm at 70mph and lower with 16 inch wheel/tire combo's. I am of the opinion that keeping the rpm higher will cause less transmission failure because torque loading will be less but i am not going to say that statement is gospel. My experience was as follows...1994 Vanagon ABA 2.0ltr turbo engined ( Yeah I know it wasn't a Subaru.) at 4260 lbs pulling a 2300 lb dual axle trailer with a 3800 lbs Sun Roof Vanagon on the trailer with a spare 2.1 motor in the trailer too. All up weight 10,610 lbs. Transmission was a low reving 4th for 3100 at 60mph. Engine developed 210 HP and around the 200+ft lbs torque. It shed the 3/4 hub after 300 miles ! An extreme case I know, but until I find a different transmission, I will use a stock trans with synthetic gear oil. I'm looking at locating a Delorean Automatic for my next project unless I find a 915 Porsche transmission I can afford. My suggestion is it would be cheaper to get a 14/15 or 16 inch wheel set up with some 29 inch tyres. Others may have different experiences, but cost of 3/4 gears and overhaul is quite high. |
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Re: Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion
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On Apr 17, 2012, at 11:28 AM, Don wrote:yeah...I agree but I mentioned Subaru and Vanagon as many times as I could ! Waddaya think Tom? |
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Re: Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion
On Apr 17, 2012, at 11:28 AM, Don wrote:
My suggestion is it would be cheaper to get a 14/15 or 16 inch wheel set up with some 29 inch tyres.I'm pretty sure this thread is going to get "dinged" as not specifically related to Subaru-into-Vanagon subject matter, so take it elsewhere 鈥�. but I completely agree with the above. Much easier, and just as effective, to use wheels/tires for "gearing-change" purposes. bob '87 Syncro Westy Subaru H6 3.0 235/70-16 BFG A/T KO's |
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Re: Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion
--- In subaruvanagon@..., "surfervan91" <tomdueck@...> wrote:
.................regear 3rd and 4th in my Westy tranny to accommodate the new engine.Here's what I know: No early diesel engined Vanagon transmission is strong enough for anything over 150 lbs ft torque. Seen two break and one owner was secretly happy it broke so he could install a later trans. Those trans rev's at 60 mph are 4200 to 4500 rpm. The 1.6 diesel was governed to 5200 rpm....VW built it as a city delivery van during the 1980's oil crisis never intending it to run at max for hours on end. The later 1984 up transmissions where prone to spin the 3/4 gear set due to torque loading...VW welded later 89/99 up gear sets. These give 4000 rpm at 70mph on stock size wheels and tyres. Even the later trans will break the hub in the 3/4 gear set over 150 lbs ft torque and will do so more often if low 3/4 gears are installed. The reason being, that at the 60 to 70mph rpm, the engine works harder to maintain speed and therefore more time is spent under peak torque loading. With a more powerful engine this happens a lot. There are companies claiming to build these transmissions to get the rpm's down to 3500 rpm at 70mph and lower with 16 inch wheel/tire combo's. I am of the opinion that keeping the rpm higher will cause less transmission failure because torque loading will be less but i am not going to say that statement is gospel. My experience was as follows...1994 Vanagon ABA 2.0ltr turbo engined ( Yeah I know it wasn't a Subaru.) at 4260 lbs pulling a 2300 lb dual axle trailer with a 3800 lbs Sun Roof Vanagon on the trailer with a spare 2.1 motor in the trailer too. All up weight 10,610 lbs. Transmission was a low reving 4th for 3100 at 60mph. Engine developed 210 HP and around the 200+ft lbs torque. It shed the 3/4 hub after 300 miles ! An extreme case I know, but until I find a different transmission, I will use a stock trans with synthetic gear oil. I'm looking at locating a Delorean Automatic for my next project unless I find a 915 Porsche transmission I can afford. My suggestion is it would be cheaper to get a 14/15 or 16 inch wheel set up with some 29 inch tyres. Others may have different experiences, but cost of 3/4 gears and overhaul is quite high. |
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Re: Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion
I'd recommend sticking with stock gearing. It's more fun to drive with the added power, and it will encourage you to stick to lower speeds (which will give you better gas economy.)
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On Apr 17, 2012, at 12:00 PM, surfervan91 wrote:
Hello everyone, I'm a newbie here with my first question. I'm about to sink a 2.5L SOHC Subaru into my '91 Westfalia. I've been reading about some people recommending that it's best to regear 3rd and 4th in my Westy tranny to accommodate the new engine. What are people's thoughts on the pros and cons or even the necessity of doing this? |
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Re: Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion
Luke Bakken
I did that when I had Daryl @ aatransaxle rebuild my syncro
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transmission a couple years ago. I run BFG AT K/O 215/75R15 tires as well. I get 20 to 21 mpg when I keep it at 55 to 60 mph. '03 EJ25. There's a pretty big gap between 2nd and 3rd gear, but I like the change. Others on this group have said they prefer stock. On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 9:00 AM, surfervan91 <tomdueck@...> wrote:
Hello everyone, I'm a newbie here with my first question. 聽I'm about to sink a 2.5L SOHC Subaru into my '91 Westfalia. 聽I've been reading about some people recommending that it's best to regear 3rd and 4th in my Westy tranny to accommodate the new engine. 聽What are people's thoughts on the pros and cons or even the necessity of doing this? |
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Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion
surfervan91
Hello everyone, I'm a newbie here with my first question. I'm about to sink a 2.5L SOHC Subaru into my '91 Westfalia. I've been reading about some people recommending that it's best to regear 3rd and 4th in my Westy tranny to accommodate the new engine. What are people's thoughts on the pros and cons or even the necessity of doing this?
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Re: No start problem
Scott Daniel - Turbovans
the way I remember which way they go is ..
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it would be logical, in my mind, to have the forward one ( toward the front of the van ) be the feed, and the aftward line the return. it's opposite of that. On 4/15/2012 7:04 AM, Paul wrote:
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Hesitation and poor idle problem fixed
I had a hesitation problem that I finally fixed this weekend on my 86 Syncro with 96 2.2 OBD II Engine and I wanted to share in case anyone else has the same problem. It all started when I started getting a hesitation at about 3000 rpm, any gear, then it started to idle poorly (start fine, then idle bad after a few seconds). I found that my Small Car ("The last header you'll ever need") header had cracked in several places, surprise! So I bought a header from Stan's Header and had Ballard Muffler in Seattle (I can't speak highly enough about those guys) do some welding on the J Pipe. I bought a new O2 sensor and put it all together. Dang it if the problem persisted, even got worse (now it died randomly at stop lights). I inspected the VSS, pulled the codes and found nothing unsual. Decided to swap out the plugs and wires as a matter of elimination and viola!! problem fixed. It looked like one of the plugs was fouled. I am not enough of a mechanic to know if the exhaust leak caused the plug to foul but I also don't believe in coincidences. Anyway I hope this helps someone else. Cheers!
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Re: Cat 02 sensor
As far as I know, they are not directional.
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I did exactly what you are talking about when I installed my OBDII EJ22. I put one bung in the j-pipe, and the other was in the cat. If you are looking for an inexpenzsive cat, check out Summit Racing and look for the MPE-53034...about $77 and free shipping. Mind you, it isnt legal for all states, so take that into account for your purchase if you are in a CARB controlled area or CA. HTH Gavin --- In subaruvanagon@..., "enerdome" <earthshelterman@...> wrote:
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Cat 02 sensor
enerdome
putting 2.2 in an 85 Westy using small car header. one 02 sensor goes in the J pipe (upstream), and one after the catalytic converter. can I mount the catalytic converter so the 02 bung is after the cat (downstream), or are the converters directional.I am looking to avoid the code that would be produced if I eliminated the downstream. thanks
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Re: No start problem
Claudio.... a HUGE thank you for your repeated suggestion, I was adamant that I had it right, but no, I had reversed the fuel supply and return lines. DOH! Cheers mate. Paul.
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....and thanks to the other posters for their suggestions. --- In subaruvanagon@..., "claudio" <claudioruzzai@...> wrote:
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Re: 99' 2.2 timing marks
Todd, sorry you say 99 ej22, I have the book for a 92,.I will see
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tomorrow at my work if Ican get photos of the 99. and I mail you back to you. Claudio On 4/15/2012 8:46 PM, Todd Schroder wrote:
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Re: 99' 2.2 timing marks
Cluadio,Thank you very much, but I guess I still have the same question because when I do use the white slash marks on the new timing belt they are 47 teeth from center (the center white slash on the belt itself) on the left and 44 teeth from center on the right.聽
I am using all of the correct alignment marks per you pics and Tom Shiels site but the teeth do not make sense to me, although it all looks correct.What am I missing here? Thank you againTodd. |
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99' 2.2 timing marks
Hi all,
I know this has been covered but after a lot of reading and rechecking myself I still have questions. I know that I am using the correct crank marks (thank you Tom for the tutorial on you site), it's the teeth counting that has me caught. when counting the teeth between marks that are on my new belt (I am referring to the marks on the belt itself I get 47 teeth from center to the left marking and 44 when counting from center to the right marking. When I had the new belt on the engine and was counting the actual teeth from crank to cam gear I was also getting 47/44 (Right/left side respectively. -Does the 44(left) and 40.5 (right) still apply to this year 2.2? -last my engine cover on my 99 does not have a rear part on the left side like it does on the right. The right has a timing mark on the cover, is there a mark on the head or the block I should be looking for on the right side? ( I did mark the right side myself prior to removing the belt, but as I said I am now questioning myself a bit) Thank you all for your help. Todd. |
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Code 22 (knock sensor)
Hi, people, I have a code 22 and I need some help.
Is a 92 ej22. On page 65 of the subaru repair manual. 1) ign. sw. ON 2)Voltage between ECU connector terminal and Body. (connector B127, pin # 5 and Ground) 3 to 4 volts. This is the white wire from the ECU to the knock sensor, well, I have 7.5 volt. Van anybody verify in your engine, and tell me is the voltage is right on the book? Because is 7.5 volt is wrong , I need a new ECU! is my thinking right? Also I check ohm reading between the sensor and ground, it read 0.556 M. I have an spare sensor and read the same value. Many thank in advance.... Claudio |
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Re: No start problem
--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Paul" <pfetherston@...> wrote:
Hi, Paul, you are missing something here, you say fuell presure is OK? and no fuel is coming out of return line?? or you dont have fuel presure or your fuel lines are pluged? you need to recheck it. claudio |
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Re: No start problem
Thanks for these suggestions, will do, I forgotten so much about the conversion, as it has run so well for so many years. I'll check these and report back.
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Thanks Paul. --- In subaruvanagon@..., Joe Baker <joeb@...> wrote:
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Bob Stevens
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