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Re: Crank Pulley Torque
Unless you're the incredible hulk using a 2 foot breaker bar - I wouldn't sweat it. The Subaru torque spec is around 100ftlbs (I believe) which is tighter than your lug / wheel nuts.
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--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:
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Re: First timer - RMW Kit and EJ22
I'm preparing to do my EJ22 conversion right now. Plan is to use RMW kit as well but going to have them do the wiring harness. I'm really interested in how smooth the conversion goes and feed back on their kit.
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Matt --- In subaruvanagon@..., "iwalklongtime" <sensical@...> wrote:
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Re: Crank Pulley Torque
So here's the deal. I got my motor and getting ready to do the timing belt, idlers, water pump and etc. While removing the crank pulley bolt I had a huge brain fart and gave it a few 1/4 turns the wrong way. Once I figured out I was being a dumb a$$ and started to turn the wrench he right way it came out with no problems. At no point did it feel like I stripped anything out and the threads on the crank pulley bolt look fine. I'm just a little concerned about the crank shaft and if this could have caused any major damage.
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Sorry for not giving more info in my first post but I was in a hurry this morning. Thanks, Matt --- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:
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Re: muffler for KEP exhaust with standard cat
Remember that you can always remount the vanagon mustache (engine
support) bar to accomodate a lower mounting point for the heat shield. I have installed a smallcar carrier (using the mustache bar) and run a kep header so i do know they will work together. If you're going to reuse the stock vanagon heat shield you'll have to do a bit of bending and a bit of cutting. I typically cut out a part of the right hand side (as viewed from back of van) to give clearance to the lower coolant line going to/from the subaru thermostat. If you use Tom's exhaust flange I don't believe you'll need to cut anything off the heat shield but it's been awhile so i may be wrong. Brent -- Brent Weide Portland, Oregon www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/ |
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Re: Crank Pulley Torque
Sure you can overtorque anything. Worst case scenario is that the
bolt snaps but not all the way off. The mechanic is not aware that the bolt is snapped. The driver operates the vehicle and during that operation the bolt dislodges and the crank pulley weasels its way off, taking a chunk of the timing belt cover with it. The alternator, power steering, and a/c belts fly asunder. The vehicle will continue to run on the power of the battery alone but will conk out before long. It'll be hard to steer and the a/c wont work. The crank bolt will have to be extracted and the pulley replaced (if you can find it). If you suspect the crank bolt is overtorqued, i'd suggest removal and inspection. Even replacement depending on how much it was overtorqued. Brent On Wed, Mar 28, 2012 at 5:32 AM, Matt <mattsewalson@...> wrote: Can one over tighten the crank pulley bolt and if so what's the worst case scenario? -- Brent Weide Portland, Oregon www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/ |
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Re: Crank Pulley Torque
Hi Matt,
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Yes, you can over torque any bolt/stud. This will usually result in one or more of the following consequences: a) Nothing happens if only over torques slightly. b) You strip the threads on either the bolt or the hole. c) The bolt/stud stretches and possibly breaks. Tom Burlington ON --- In subaruvanagon@..., "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> wrote:
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Re: First timer - RMW Kit and EJ22
I'm just getting finished up on my install of a '99 Phase II EJ25 out of an Impreza 2.5RS, with mostly RMW hardware (adapter, exhaust, coolant mount, etc). Fired it up for the first time last weekend! Got a few bugs, but went well for the most part. As I'm sure everyone will tell you, the wiring harness is the biggest PITA. But its doable. If you are not patient or not very experienced doing this kind of work, its worth it to have an expert do the harness. I'm over in the V-Couv, so if you want to take a look at everything as it is in my van, you are more than welcome. Let me know and we can set something up. Good luck.
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Joe --- In subaruvanagon@..., "iwalklongtime" <sensical@...> wrote:
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First timer - RMW Kit and EJ22
Hi guys,
I've heard about this group for a few years, but only just up and joined as a swap is imminent! I've gone ahead and got the RMW kit as it seems really complete and pretty well made - I've dealt with them on some other stuff and met some people that had swaps done there as well and all good things to say... Located a Motor, ECU and harness locally [Portland, OR] out of a 99 Legacy. (Not a donor car, I'm just getting these parts) I understand this is a phase 2 motor - anyone have any experience with one of these good bad or otherwise? Am I missing anything major here? Seems like it's going to be reasonably straightforward. [Famous last words] Cheers all! |
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Re: muffler for KEP exhaust with standard cat
Rob
Twice ('87 Wolfsburg & '84 Westy) I've used the KEP header & my stock cat/muffler with good results until they wore out (rust). No fit problems...
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Both times I replaced them with a muffler from Tom after they wore out. I have tom's muffler on my 94 2.2 right now & recommend it to anyone interested. Rob becida@... At 3/27/2012 05:48 PM,kneuper_steve wrote:
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muffler for KEP exhaust with standard cat
kneuper_steve
Hello All,
Lots of things you find out during your first (gee, did I indicate there might be a second?) conversion. I went with mostly KEP components, and it puts my stock 88 converter and muffler more to the right side of the car than stock. I didn't realize that until now. Time to by a shorter muffler, perhaps 22 inches?!?!? to use on my conversion. I'm keeping the stock cat converter and will likely by one of Tom's support brackets for my EJ22 with automatic conversion. Should the end of the muffler align within an inch of the frame rail, where the slight arch is cut to accommodate? With the KEP mount I don't have an easy way to mount the heat shield, how have people worked around that? Perhaps time to bend the original sheet metal quite a bit.... Perhaps on this "2nd" conversion I'll go with a different mounting system. --steve in austin texas |
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Re: Vanagon with a DOHC 2.5 engine in North or South Carolina.
Over the weekend I finally started opening up the wiring harness in the engine compartment of the Vanagon, and made some progress until I was overcome by a bad case of bronchitis. My very preliminary findings are: Whoever did the wiring modification had the proper gauge wire, but had a limited choice of colors - therefore no continuity of colors from the inside to the outside of the harness. I found that the 2 long wire pigtails that come out of one of the sub-harnesses are part of the charging system. Using the wiring diagram for a 99 Legacy, the large red wire goes to hot with ignition in the run position, and the small black wire goes to the alt. lamp. The other 3 wire pigtails that come out of the main harness are: red to battery voltage, one of the orange wires is hot when ign is in crank position, and the other orange wire is hot when ign. is in run position. I plan to re-verify this this coming weekend, and move on to the wires that go to and from the relay bank mounted in the engine compartment. In the meantime, however, I thought that I might ask if there are any preferred locations to splice these wires into the Vanagon electrical system, as opposed to just using the wiring diagram to find locations that would appear to be appropriate sources for each circuit. Thanks !!
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--- In subaruvanagon@..., DARREL PENNIGAR <darrelp86@...> wrote:
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Re: where should i buy my used engine in the Denver Area
Hey, I'm in Denver also. There are a few reputable resellers out there but youre always taking the risk that you don't have all the pieces you need. I went to klode, which is a totalled car auction. I got an '00 legacy for $2200 with 100k miles. It was time consuming, but I sold 2k worth of parts off of it, took the parts I needed and then scrapped it.
There's also CCR, a Subaru engine rebuilder. They're familiar with the vanagon conversions but they are pretty pricey. Good luck! On Mar 27, 2012, at 11:27 AM, "Terry" <gannont15@...> wrote: Hey there,[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: will adding a cat reduce the gas smell?
Interesting stuff. I'm thinking I should add a cat. I've ran without one
for about 2,000 miles. I upgraded to the Small car stainless system and I got a straight pipe with an O2 bung where the cat would normally go. To answer the questions. No I am not getting any codes related to o2 sensors or nox or anything. The only codes I ever see are P1500, P1501 and P1507, which are all conversion related, I believe. (my ECU is still in auto mode... which I need to fix). Eddie On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 10:51 AM, Don <dkveuro@...> wrote: ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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where should i buy my used engine in the Denver Area
Hey there,
i'm starting to price out a ej25 for my Syncro Westy. I live in the denver area and found a guy (salvage yard i think) on CL selling one w 112K miles for 1400$. price includes the ECU. any thoughts suggesiton on the that price? recommendations? i have a motor that threw a rod so i'm debating on finding a long block and swappin it all out. there are rebuilds in the area for 1800$ but i am fairly new to these conversions so i thought i throw it out there for suggestions. thanks |
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Re: will adding a cat reduce the gas smell?
--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Neil" <furrylittleotter@...> wrote:
............................... I could even run a cat and it would be fine, and work, possibly for YEARS?Limp Mode default is triggered by loss of MAP, TPS, CTS or transmission signal, VSS or a slip condition in the transmission. These lost or corrupted signals are then ignored and a factory back up substitute used. When this happens it really is Limp Mode and some vehicles will not restart again if cooled off. Automatics will usually stay in 3rd and engine will not rev above 4000rpm.. Most, but not all will run well without O2 sensors. However, to be sure, a check with a Digital Oscilloscope or DVOM should be performed before running long term . .. |
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Current thoughts on best SVX conversion parts source combination?
I will be starting my SVX conversion into my '87 SyncroWesty this spring and I wanted to know your current thought on the best combination of SVX conversion parts/vendors.
I'm in Colorado, so I'm looking closely at RMW. But I'm just guessing. I'm also a fairly experienced mechanic, my winter project was converting our Audi Cabriolet from automatic to manual transmission ( ). Given all the possible combinations of bell housings, adapter plates, headers, shortened oil pans and the like right now, it would be great to hear some experienced, big-picture, opinions on the best combination. |
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Re: will adding a cat reduce the gas smell?
Larry Hamm
Not all car's limp modes are created equal...
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Larry H. On 3/26/2012 10:28 PM, Neil wrote:
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Brent Weide
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