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Re: ignition- no spark woes timing belt
Darrell Boehler
Hi Brian,
I remember having a lot of fun with a 2.2L that had the timing belt out of time. I seem to remember it had some spark at times but it wasn't consistent. We spent a couple of days trying to get the 2.2L to start. We (listee Chuck Hill and I ) were using the older chiltons. It is very unclear if not misleading as to where the crank should be when the cams are set up at the proper mark. We did get a pop or 2 from the 2.2L when it was out of time but that was all. We finally got desperate and went shopping for knowledge, a kind mechanic from the local subaru dealer in Waterloo Iowa enlightened us. The crank shaft should have the tang at 12 o'clock not the tic mark on the pulley. A couple of hours later we were listening to the sweet sound of the 2.2L come to life with a roar. Darrell ----- Original M. essage ----- From: <SBWC919@...> To: <subaruvanagon@...> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 8:19 PM Subject: [subaruvanagon] ignition- no spark woes
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more wiring Qs
I figured out the alternator wiring on my 90 Legacy harness. The
yellow wire goes to the diode. But now I am trying to figure out where the A/C wires go. Specifically, the yellow/grn wire and the red/yellow wires coming from the compressor don't have a place to go. Where do they go, if anywhere? The third wire of that group, red/blue goes to the ECU. Also, on KEP's wiring diagram (the 6 foot one) on the upper left hand corner are three wires and a subharness that connecto to the Vanagon wiring. The top wire is the blk/wht one coming from the alternator and going to the alternator light on the Vanagon. The second wire indicates "B+ Hot from battery." Where does that wire come from on the Suby harness? The third wire indicates "To ignition on." Where does that wire come from on the Suby harness? Also, where do those inline fuses come from? Are they from the Vanagon harness or do we buy those and install them inline? The subharness beneath those three wires doesnt make sense to me either. The connector is from the Vanagon, but where do we get a connector to connect to the Vanagon connector? Finally, whats the deal with that water level sensor wire at the bottom of the diagram? Sorry for my ignorance. Any help is much appreciated. Mark Dobkin |
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Changing Power Steering Pump, oil on timing chain, problems???
I am working to make my 1990 Sub. Legacy (donor car....) run before I
convert it into my vanagon. I recently changed power steering pumps (Original busted in a front wreck....). How do you avoid, without totally draining fluid, spilling this power steering fluid on top the the timing chain cover and hence the timing belt. I did spill power steering here. Is that a problem???? Larry |
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Re: ignition- no spark woes
Darrell Boehler
Hi Brian,
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Try page 38. Darrell ----- Original Message -----
From: <SBWC919@...> To: <subaruvanagon@...> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 8:19 PM Subject: [subaruvanagon] ignition- no spark woes
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Re: Darrell: Re VSS- Hall Effects units??
Darrell Boehler
Hi Warren,
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Thanks for the kind words. First I am spent my working life as a technician not an electronic engineer. If you know one by all means get advice form them. I would try a hall from digikey.com like " hal214ua-e-nd " . It seems to have what we need, voltage range, current range is good, and is even suggested for use as a speed sensor among other things. The site you mention has some great hall information, thanks for pointing me that way. Darrell ----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren Chapman" <tallsound@...> To: <subaruvanagon@...> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 11:16 AM Subject: [subaruvanagon] Darrell: Re VSS- Hall Effects units??
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Re: Final Drive Ratios
Leon Korkin
Hi Steve,
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My van is 2wd but the spacer is needed to compensate for the diffrense in wheel offset.Offset of standard Vanagon wheel is 35mm, Audi wheel offset is 45mm. So the diffrence of 10mm=.39" and for Audi wheel to be in the stock position it needs to be spaced out by this amount and clearing suspension parts also. I chose 5/16" thickness and it was enough to clear suspension. The spacer print is the drawing of spacer i did in Autocad so any machine shop can make it. I am not familiar with Syncro but guess it doesn't matter.The hubs need to be opened to 2.500 dia due to front axle dust caps. The studs must be longer for 2wd van, using Porshe studs may be expensive. It's not that much work to do it and it is worth it. The hard part is removing axle nut, it is very tight, i have very large, ab. 5 foot long handle with socket to do it. Once you have axle hub out you can hammer old studs out. Get new studs, (may have to ream holes in axle hubs if you use Pep Boys studs) and press them in using hydrolic press.Standard studs have M14X1.5 thread and 35mm long, knurled dia(for pressing) is ab. .580" Pep boys studs knurled dia is larger so holes in axle hubs have to be reamed close to stud knurled dia so there is little interference(.008 or less) to keep studs there. Leon Steve Coseo wrote: Thanks. Wow. Appreciate that. |
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Re: filling collent from the radiator ?
--- In subaruvanagon@..., beamreach@u... wrote:
Hi All,it). radiator, other end in a jug of coolent of course. |
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Re: filling collent from the radiator ?
--hello john i have installed a front fill radiator in my 1986
westy . Im currently in longmont co visiting if you want to take a look at the car.mail me back with your # and ill give you a call danny - In subaruvanagon@..., beamreach@u... wrote: Hi All,it). radiator, other end in a jug of coolent of course. |
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filling collent from the radiator ?
Hi All,
I've ordered the kit from KEP and motor from a 93 subi to cure my "thrown rod problem" in my 87 syncro. KEP sent me some docs early and looking them over I already having wiring questions (that I'll save for later hoping they'll solve themselves as I get into it). My question here is about filling the coolent. The Docs indicate that a front filling radiator might eliminate trapped air problems and make bleeding the cooling system so much easier. Has anyone tried this ? My thought was to get a small aquarium pump and place the output into the hole for the bleeder bolt on top of the radiator, other end in a jug of coolent of course. Any thoughts ? John, Evergreen, CO PS, if anyone needs a source for motors, I've found a business in Boulder CO that looks reputable and I'm willing to go up and look over motors for anyone who needs. |
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Darrell: Re VSS- Hall Effects units??
Warren Chapman
Darrell,
Thanks so much for your always helpful posts to our list. I'm one of the non-electronics educated on the list and so looked up the following site on "hall-effect"s to find out just what this is and how it works. Others may find it helpful. This site (hand the digikey.com site you recommend) mentions several types of hall units. Can you recommend one type or a Digikey part number that is useful for our application. Warren C. |
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Re: yellow wire from alternator
Warren Chapman
Mark,
The yellow wire from the round plug on the Subaru alternator is spliced into one of (mine has two) the VW black "ignition on" wire that come from the black junction box in the engine bay. Warren C. Mark Dobkin wrote. I am in the middle of wiring hell and I spliced the yellow wirefrom the alternator to somewhere but it unspliced itself and I cantfigure out where it goes. Any help would be appreciated. The wiring |
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yellow wire from alternator
I am in the middle of wiring hell and I spliced the yellow wire from
the alternator to somewhere but it unspliced itself and I cant figure out where it goes. Any help would be appreciated. The wiring harness is a 90 Legacy. thanks Mark Dobkin 89 Vanagon GL (with Legacy engine sitting next to it) |
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Re: Final Drive Ratios
Steve Coseo
Thanks. Wow. Appreciate that.
Hey, a few questions sir. Are you saying I need spacers on my syncro as well? Or JUST for the non syncro applications? i have a reg van as well. They seemed to fit fine on my syncro, and I looked at the suspension, but it was dark and of course I might have missed something, and I have no idea how they would fit with the suspension actually moving up and down. The reason I ask this is that I have been told that the wheels fit the syncro with NO mod, but I learned quickly that I had to ream the hub a bit. What is a spacer print? I have also heard that the rear lugs have to be longer for the wheels to fit a non syncro van. Heard that porsche 911 studs work. Heard anything like that? I would hate to have to press it new studs. Sounds likea lot of work... Thanks again, steve ----Original Message Follows---- From: Leon Korkin <korkwood@...> Reply-To: subaruvanagon@... To: subaruvanagon@... Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] Re: Final Drive Ratios Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 22:43:45 -0800 You will need spacers too.I got the same wheels and used 5/16" thick alum. spacers and it works clearing all suspension parts.Reaming out the center is critical part and has to be precise for wheel balancing.I got spacer print and if you need it can mail it to you. I got longer studs for rear hubs at Pep boys at very reasonable price. Because they were bit larger diameter had to drill larger holes in hub and pressed them in. The wheels proved to be very good and with 215/75/15 tires lifted van for much better clearance. Leon 85 Subwagen Westy Steve Coseo wrote: Great post. thanks.the syncro disk hub.to a full 2.5 inches.that could do that? Brian (smallcar.com)described a couple days ago. 5x112 bolt pattern, 7 inch rims with a 25 mm or 1 inchhis old front tires LT 195 75 r 14 turned 834and rear 225 70 14 were 795. Thenorthwest the past couple of weeks and likes this set up. His words are more likeit handles great, he also has a rear anti- sway bar.his set up with 25 mm offset is as good as you can get using the same wheelsall around with no spacers. It is dead center between the outside wheel welland ball joint in front and has 1 inch of clearance at the trailing arms andliked that.happy with the ecu. The check engine light stays off. However if we hook upread out jumper it will have 51 and 52 (neutral and parking brake) errorslogged. Darrella gear ratio chart somewhere within "Tom's Vanagon Website" (not sure) inthe engine conversion section.engine turning around 3600 or 3700, instead of the 4000 it now turns at 70 MPH. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: subaruvanagon-unsubscribe@... _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at |
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Re: Final Drive Ratios
Leon Korkin
You will need spacers too.I got the same wheels and used 5/16" thick alum.
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spacers and it works clearing all suspension parts.Reaming out the center is critical part and has to be precise for wheel balancing.I got spacer print and if you need it can mail it to you. I got longer studs for rear hubs at Pep boys at very reasonable price. Because they were bit larger diameter had to drill larger holes in hub and pressed them in. The wheels proved to be very good and with 215/75/15 tires lifted van for much better clearance. Leon 85 Subwagen Westy Steve Coseo wrote: Great post. thanks. |
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Re: Final Drive Ratios
Darrell Boehler
Hi Larry,
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We had some vss discussions last summer. I remember taking pictures but I don't think they are posted yet. On a 2wd 3 magnets on the o2 counter shaft will be about right. We are using 4 with no problem. The o2 mileage counter spins at 800 revs per mile on a 2 wd. On a syncro you probably only want 2 magnets. Seems the legacy needs about 2k vss pulses per mile. Ours is made similar to the Meyers brothers, except where they used a reed type contact we used the hall unit. The vss / hall has given us no problems since install. Darrell Hi Leon, We used a hall unit from webtronics.com, they only sell one. Digikey.com sells hall units also, some of theirs are more sensitive and may be easier to work with. We use 4 magnets just like Dick Meyer from Radio shack catalog # 64-1895, attaching them to the vans o2 counter shaft with radio shack quick drying epoxy 64-2313b. We get 4 pulses per revolution of the o2 counter shaft / or revolution of the left front wheel which ever way you prefer to look at it. It seems to us the vss along with the park, neutral switch, ac clutch all seem to have an impact on engine idle. It idles very smooth at all ranges and it varies the idle speed depending which switches or combination of switches are active. I am waiting for a note from Dick Meyer on how to wire up the park and neutral switches for best results. He has a handle on them. Darrell ps. For those who want a quick run down. We will put some pictures and more details on our web site and I will post here when we get them up. The hall we used (ohn3133u) required passing the magnets within about .030 inch or less of the hall unit front midsection. I tested / scoped the unit on the bench using a drill to drive the unit. It has plenty of drive with just the hall transistor (no driver transistor needed). On install we pick up 12 volts and ground at the fuel pump through a 5 amp inline fuse. The D+ wire already at the o2 counter was lacking adequate power to drive the vss signal on our van. (The 2.2L seems to have a very wimpy D+ signal). Other than 12v and ground the hall unit has an output pin that we took direct to the ecu connector b58 pin11 or kep pin b11. We reset the ecu codes and have no more 33 error type logged. As I mention in an earlier post we now have 51 and 52 error codes. Tom is traveling to Wisconsin to a further festival this weekend, and the system will get a good long test under actual driving conditions. ----- Original Message -----
From: "Leon Korkin" <korkwood@...> To: <subaruvanagon@...> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 10:45 PM Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] vss / error 33 Hi Darrell,----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Hamm" <LDHAMM@...> To: <subaruvanagon@...> Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] Re: Final Drive Ratios
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