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Re: Timing Chain Job - 1990 Subaru Legacy
Leon Korkin
Your Suby engine has timing belt, not chain and you can't damage valves
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by turning engine. To see the damage you have to remove timing belt dust covers and check camshaft sprockets for damage.I recently saw one engine hit on one side, the whole camshaft went back and siezed. Good luck Leon Korkin 85 Subwagen Westy 68rvbus@... wrote: I am new to this site. Trying to investigate my recently purchased |
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Timing Chain Job - 1990 Subaru Legacy
I am new to this site. Trying to investigate my recently purchased
Subaru which was wrecked slightly in the front at the time I purchased her. Here's my questions: (1) If car was hit, approx. 10mph, in the center front; and the bumper was missed (car went over...); the cross member holding radiator didn't slow the car any; The radiator was bent; the two radiator fan surrounds appears to take some hit; the power steering pump was crack 1/16 inch at bottom; and the camshaft sprocket cover has only a slight scrap in it....... Here's the thing, with the above mentioned "damage", the car was REPORTEDLY ran to load onto wrecker at time of accident. The car turns over SLOW but sounds ...... This car was running when hit....I think my slow turning car is caused by my timing belt having jumped its track due to the quick hit it took. Possible? If so can I still trying to crank it. I understand the 2.5l can bend a value in timing chain out.....is this the case with the 2.2l?????? Does that sound logical given damage? And given my newly charged battery cannot turn motor over quickly (25-45 deg. in Atlant...)???? (2) Can anyone send my a few pages from a good service manual that covers timing chain removal, inspection, etc. for my 1990 Subaru Legacy from a manual other than Haynes (I have it but it shows mostly 2.5l)???? Any help is greatly appreciated. Larry |
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Re: Subaru Power Output Graphs
Leon Korkin
The Legacy or Impreza 2.5l engines that might work were from year 1997
till current.
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They all make 165 hp and 162 lb/ft of torque.The big "but" is need for custom made exhaust, more complicated and unknown wiring, possible big problem with smogging(may need a friend in smog shop).It would be great to see it work! Leon Korkin Nelson Stoll wrote: ?Dear Converts,I am still researching the drivetrain combo to install in my 90 Vanagon when it goes south in an estimated 25k miles.? I sure would like the six mated to a G50 tranny, but the amount of work is daunting!I found an airplane hobbiest site that uses Subaru engines as the base.? He has posted some interesting stuff, including the graphs for the Japanese engines.Enjoy: Does anyone have access to info on the redesigned2.5L SOHC four introduced in 1999?? This four valve motor supposedly has much more low end torque for the size without resorting to using a turbo.? I sure would love to see the curves.? And also the new 3.0L six, new to 2000.Nelson StollSF Bay Area |
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Subaru Power Output Graphs
Nelson Stoll
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýDear
Converts,
?
I am
still researching the drivetrain combo to install in my 90 Vanagon when it goes
south in an estimated 25k miles.? I sure would like the six mated to a G50
tranny, but the amount of work is daunting!
?
I
found an airplane hobbiest site that uses Subaru engines as the base.? He
has posted some interesting stuff, including the graphs for the Japanese
engines.
?
Enjoy:
?
Does anyone have access to info on the
redesigned?2.5L SOHC four introduced
in 1999?? This four valve motor supposedly has much more low end torque for
the size without resorting to using a turbo.? I sure would love to see the
curves.? And also the new 3.0L six, new to
2000.
?
Nelson
Stoll
SF Bay
Area |
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Re: VW Engine $ ?
steve goldstein
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýDavid,
I think the most valuable part of a worn out VW Wasserleaker
is the muffler. If still good, I have seen them fetch $150.00.
I'm sure you can part out the engine. The individual parts
from VW of America are so expensive, that someone might give
you $200-250 for the whole shebang. Vanagon.com is a good
place to sell parts. I just sold my power steering pump with
reservoir for $100.00 off my old ' 90 2.1
Wasserleaker.?? Steve -----Original Message-----
From: david wilhite <dnmwilhite@...> To: subaruvanagon <subaruvanagon@...> Date: Thursday, January 04, 2001 5:24 PM Subject: [subaruvanagon] VW Engine $ ?
It appears that my conversion will make it, so it looks like I won't need
my VW engine after all.? I was wondering if I decided to sell it, where
would be the best place (ebay, Vanagon site, newspaper, etc.) and what it may be
worth?? It's from an 84'; has ~134,000 miles on it;?dun no if it had
been rebuilt; was running good but hot when I pulled it.? Unfortunately,
when I was pulling the heads off to check out the gaskets, one cylinder liner on
each side ended up sticking to the head, so?I think the engine would have
to be disassembled to remove and reinstall the liner and pistons.??
The gaskets were cracked and I assume that was where my water was going.?
The engine was running carbs and not fuel injection, so I don't have the
computer or the injectors.? If anybody could give their two cents worth,
I'd appreciate it.
?
Also, would a Subaru power steering pump be worth anything?
?
David Wilhite
2001 KLR650
Subaruvanagon in progress
?
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: subaruvanagon-unsubscribe@... |
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VW Engine $ ?
david wilhite
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
It appears that my conversion will make it, so it looks like I won't need my VW engine after all.? I was wondering if I decided to sell it, where would be the best place (ebay, Vanagon site, newspaper, etc.) and what it may be worth?? It's from an 84'; has ~134,000 miles on it;?dun no if it had been rebuilt; was running good but hot when I pulled it.? Unfortunately, when I was pulling the heads off to check out the gaskets, one cylinder liner on each side ended up sticking to the head, so?I think the engine would have to be disassembled to remove and reinstall the liner and pistons.?? The gaskets were cracked and I assume that was where my water was going.? The engine was running carbs and not fuel injection, so I don't have the computer or the injectors.? If anybody could give their two cents worth, I'd appreciate it.
?
Also, would a Subaru power steering pump be worth anything?
?
David Wilhite
2001 KLR650
Subaruvanagon in progress
?
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Re: Ignition coil or ignitor problem Update
Ten minutes into the 20 minute drive home from work the engine quit
missing and seems to run fine now. Runs smooth and has full power. Not sure what to make of it. I suspect this will not be the last of this problem. Thanks to everyone who responded with ideas and info. --- In subaruvanagon@..., "John Seehorn" <jseehorn@h...> wrote: Has anybody had any ignition coil or igniter problems?It ran very rough and I could hear the snapping arc jumping from thestarted the engine and it ran smoother although maybe not as smooth as itfouled plug and bead blasted it clean. No improvement. Still runs roughI'm starting to think I may have toasted a coil or igniter when thespark plug wire was disconnected. Or one of the two was already weak |
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Re: Ignition coil or ignitor problem
Larry Hamm
John Seehorn wrote:
John, Try swapping plug wires with another plug, maybe the wire is shot. Larry |
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Re: Ignition coil or ignitor problem
Darrell Boehler
Hi John,
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Thanks and glad I could help a bit. The 2.2L coil is designed a little different than we are usually accustomed to. If you have a bad coil you will loose 2 cylinders on the 2.2L. Like cyl 1 and 2 or cyl 3 and 4. The electrical section says the the wires should measure between 5 k and 12 k ohms resistance. The picture of the coil at the Meyers site has a diagram of the coil under tach information. Darrell ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Seehorn" <jseehorn@...> To: <subaruvanagon@...> Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 1:49 PM Subject: [subaruvanagon] Ignition coil or ignitor problem Has anybody had any ignition coil or igniter problems? |
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Ignition coil or ignitor problem
Has anybody had any ignition coil or igniter problems?
Last night I was mounting my aircleaner and knocked off one of the spark plug wires without noticing it until I started the engine. It ran very rough and I could hear the snapping arc jumping from the coil to the wire..... about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. It probably ran for less than a minute, just long enough to get out see the problem and then go shut the engine off. After putting the wire back on I started the engine and it ran smoother although maybe not as smooth as it used to. It was late and I didn't think too much of it at the time thinking the plug may be fouled and would clear up. This morning it was harder to start and ran rough on the way to work. When I feel the temp of the exhaust pipes the one cylinder pipe is noticeably cooler than the other three. I pulled the fouled plug and bead blasted it clean. No improvement. Still runs rough and that exhaust head pipe is only warm not hot like the rest. My check engine light so far only blinks a steady flash, no code. I'm starting to think I may have toasted a coil or igniter when the spark plug wire was disconnected. Or one of the two was already weak because I've been having a bit of a starting problem that I had not worked out yet. Tonight I will do the "ignition control system" checks listed in the Fuel Injection System info that was posted by Darrel Boehler a few weeks ago, thanks Darrel. If anyone has any info I'd be glad to hear it before I dive in to this one. |
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Vanagon Transmissions
Brown, Rich
General question regarding Vanagon Transmissions: I am in the process of
putting a '91 Subaru 2.2 L engine in a 1984 Vanagon GL which had the 1.9 L WBX gas engine. The transmission is a bit tired after 200,000 miles showing signs of syncro's failing in 2nd and 3rd gear. The question is, can I put in a later model transmission in this vehicle? Is the linkage the same and the output flanges and halfshafts? Did they change the gear ratios? That may be advantageous with the Subaru engine if they went to slightly higher gearing with the bigger WBX in later years. I have been getting conflicting stories from wrecking yards. Some say you can, others say you can only use a '84 or 85 transmission in an '84. Thanks for the advice Rich |
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Re: Check engine light --- no codes???
Ed McKinley
P.S. When you connect the green plugs to get error codes you must have
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the black plugs disconnected otherwise you may clear all memory and your engine will have to relearn its functions again. No bid deal but you have to wait a bit while things get back to normal. I think others have mentioned having plugs connected while driving also. The plugs should only be connected if you want to use them. Check the manual for correct operation. Ed McKinley wrote:
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Re: Sagging rear springs can be found at : www.fastforward.ca
the 2wd westy spring kit is going to be available at
www.fastforward.ca , but after seeing their site , it's not yet ready unless you have a syncro. You can sign up there to be notified when it becomes available. Tim Roberts, slc,ut -- In subaruvanagon@..., 68rvbus@U... wrote: Did you ever find a source for this "lift kit". I also have a 1985ago, soendperhaps the kits are available now. Steve ' 90 Carat Suberbvan of ain2WD Westfalia. I have an '85 which sits a good 2 inches lower theVanagonrear. When accelerating (esp. with the Subaru engine) it really siteall?the options are: New springs from the dealer. Very expensive. Syncro.org.New springs in the prototype stage from Steve Schwenk @ Spacers under the existing springs. |
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Re: Check engine light --- no codes???
Ed McKinley
The green plugs are called Test Mode Connector and are used for the "D
Check" which gives trouble codes through the check engine light. When used in conjunction with the black plugs will clear all codes from memory. The black plugs are called Read Memory Connector and are used to check past trouble codes, blink the vehicle specification code (type of vehicle) and possibly other functions we don't make use of. They will also clear codes in the computer when used with the green plugs. The code clearing procedure will clear all memory functions which the computer will have to relearn as you drive for a while. I believe the computer memorizes all its functions and constantly averages how it responds to input from all the sensors based on past actions. In other words it works just like our brain does. With the black plugs only connected you may get a blinking light with the ignition on but engine off. This is either a trouble code from memory or the Subaru veh identification code if there are no codes in memory. The test procedures for both sets of plugs is listed in the fuel injection manual which should be on the web link that has been posted twice by Darrell. Basically to test for trouble codes you connect the green plugs, turn the key on, depress the acc pedal all the way and immediately back off to half throttle for two seconds then let up. Then start the engine. This may cause the check engine light to emit trouble codes. (Didn't on mine) If not, drive down the street for one minute and shift through all gears. This should cause the check engine light to emit trouble codes. (I got codes half way through this process). Then it says to "warm up" the engine above 2000 rpm. The book notes that over 2k for more than 40 seconds will produce a trouble code but it doesn't say which one or whether you are supposed to stop or continue beyond 40 seconds. If light blinks in a non trouble code sequence you are done with the test but should be scratching your head because you should have at least the codes for the each of the "big three" items you have not done a Myers patch for. If light is not blinking at this point you should go back through the 2000 rpm warm up again. I got the big three codes both in my test and from a dealer who used the Select Monitor plug. The Select Monitor is a hand held device that can check all the codes, including those the D Check doesn't pick up. It can also clear the memory. |
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Re: Check engine light --- no codes???
Warren Chapman
Ed,
I'm not getting ANY codes so far. That was my question. Do I connect the green plugs in order to get them?? I have tried connecting them, but still......nothing. I haven't driven around much yet but have idled the engine and reved it up to 2000-3000 rpm and held it there for a while. Still no flashing codes. I know the light is working because it comes on when the black plugs are connected. Is that what its supposed to do?/ Warren C. |
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Re: Check engine light --- no codes???
Ed McKinley
Warren, It took several days and miles before my check engine light
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would stay on and then it was on permanently. This process may repeat itself each time you clear the codes with the black connectors. I've never reconnected my check light and will not until I set up the Myers three code fix. I eventually want the check light to actually perform its intended function. Have you checked your codes by connecting the green plugs and running the engine as specified? If so what codes do you get? Should be 33, 51, 52. Warren Chapman wrote:
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Re: Check engine light --- no codes???
Darrell Boehler
Hi Warren,
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I posted some information several weeks ago on subaru fuel injection system. It has what you need to diagnose / trouble shoot 2.2L problems. It is still out there on the net I just checked. Enjoy. Darrell ps. The test connectors are explained on page 21 ----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren Chapman" <tallsound@...> To: <subaruvanagon@...> Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 1:41 AM Subject: [subaruvanagon] Check engine light --- no codes???
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Check engine light --- no codes???
Warren Chapman
Hooked up my check engine light today but not getting any flashing
codes. When are you supposed to get them? Do the green "read memory" plugs have to be connected to make the codes flash? Get steady light when the black "test mode" plugs are connected. Warren C. |
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