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Warren Chapman wrote:

Larry,

Thanks for responding tho the "oil pan thread". I am anxiously awaiting
the results of your measurements to see how much must be cut out the oil
plan to clear the Syncro skid plate.

Before I got started, I wanted to compare the truck and the van for ride
height. First I measured the truck and then exchanged tires with the van and
then measured the van. I found that the van rides ? inch lower in the rear
with the truck empty.

The lowest point on the Subaru oil pan is 7 inches off the ground. In the
van it would have 6? inches clearance.
The highest point on the skid plate under the VW WBX engine is 9 3/8 inches
above the ground. If the skid plate were mounted on the truck, the highest
point would be 9 7/8 inches above the ground.

For the skid plate to fit on the truck withour modification, the oil pan
would have to reduced by at least 2 7/8 inches - The $200 1? inch reduction
isn't enough.

The KEP exhaust header on the truck is 9 inches off the ground. The $200 1?
inch reduction in the oil pan would make the bottom of the oil pan about the
same height as the exhaust 8? inches vs. 9 inches. (i.e. on the van it would
be 8? in. vs. 8? in.). The skid plate, if mounted on the truck would be
about 10 inches above the ground where the KEP exhaust header comes from 2&4
cylinders. This pipe is about 9 inches above the ground and the skid plate
wouldn't clear it.

IMHO the $200 1? inch reduction is worth it because it brings the whole area
underneath to the same clearance (approx).
The stock skid plate won't fit without modification. The risk of off-roading
without a skid plate is too high.

-Larry

I need some help wiring my tachometer.

I made a two diode wiring arrangement to provide a signal to the VW
tachometer.

From 3,4 Coil ----|>----
\
-------- To VW Tachometer
/
From 1,2 Coil ----|>----

For diodes (-|>-) I used 1w 12v from Radioshack. I get a ? tachometer
reading with either the 3,4 Coil connected or the 1,2 Coil connected but the
engine won't run with both connected. It appears as if the diodes are
letting some (excitor) signal back the wrong way and causing the wrong coil
to fire (this is only a guess).

Is my circuit correct? What diodes should I be using?
Thanks Larry

CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHY I HAVE DIFFICULTY STARTING MY SUBARU ENGINE IN THE
MORNINGS. IT WANTS TO START BUT JUST PUFFS UNTIL FINALLY AFTER 5 TO 6 GOES
IT STARTS . IS IT FUEL?? TO MUCH ? NOT ENOUGH?? SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE
COLD START SYSTEM ?? PLEASE HELP

YES , IN STANDARD FORM HERE IN AUST THE LIBERTY WAS 149KW, BUT MINE IS NOT
STANDARD.I HAVE POSTED THE MODS ALREADY THAT HAVE BEEN DONE TO MY ENGINE.

I am in the process of my conversion and I am having trouble figuring
out the VW wiring.

1) Do I cut the vw wiring out of the picture except the ones I need?

On the main engine plug, we tapped into the wires, leaving the VW chassis-side terminal intact, just in case. (if you get another vanagon and you want to take the 2.2 with you)

2) Do I completely take out the VW ECU from under the back seat or
does it stay?

We removed the VW ECU. Getting the wire bundle out wasn't easy.

3) What about the VW coil and engine wiring box on the firewall
close to the coil? I know that the majority of my needed wires are
in this box, but there are alot of extras in there also.

We packed some of our wires back into that box.

Am I totally overlooking something here about the VW wiring harness
and ECU?

VW ECU and related harness is outta there!

Please any and all help is appreciated.

Good luck!

Tom
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| website:
| e-mail: TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+

I am in the process of my conversion and I am having trouble figuring
out the VW wiring.

1) Do I cut the vw wiring out of the picture except the ones I need?

2) Do I completely take out the VW ECU from under the back seat or
does it stay?

3) What about the VW coil and engine wiring box on the firewall
close to the coil? I know that the majority of my needed wires are
in this box, but there are alot of extras in there also.

Am I totally overlooking something here about the VW wiring harness
and ECU?

Please any and all help is appreciated.

Brian
1986 Syncro GL
Suffolk, VA

I suggest that before you pull apart the Sub compressor, you use a voltmeter
and measure the engage and release voltages on the compressor clutch, (and
actually, on the existing Vanagon compressor clutch, too!).

Then, it should be a simple matter for us Engineers to devise a voltage
translation circuit, if needed.

Otherwise, I cannot help but think that a compressor is a compressor. (But
that's really just a statement of ignorance, isn't it)

Any reason why any clutch would use a voltage other than 12v? I guess its possible.

Tom
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| website:
| e-mail: TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+

I am having a problem locating motor mounts for my 90 Legacy 2.2
outside of the ($145 each side) dealership. Does anybody have a
source for used motor mounts? I have a 90 2.2 from an automatic 2-
wheel drive that uses the round liquid-filled rubberized mounts. Please help.

Brian
87 Synchro GL
Suffolk, VA
PS Anybody near Suffolk, VA with a conversion (or in process)?

I'd go to the wrecking yard.

Tom
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| website:
| e-mail: TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+

Warren Chapman wrote:

Larry,

Thanks for responding tho the "oil pan thread". I am anxiously awaiting
the results of your measurements to see how much must be cut out the oil
plan to clear the Syncro skid plate.

Warren, before I got started, I wanted to compare the truck and the van for
ride height. First I measured the truck and then exchanged tires with the
van and then measured the van. I found that the van rides ? inch lower in
the rear with the truck empty.

The lowest point on the Subaru oil pan is 7 inches off the ground. In the
van it would have 6? inches clearance. The highest point on the skid plate
under the VW WBX engine is 9 3/8 inches above the ground. If the skid plate
were mounted on the truck, the highest point would be 9 7/8 inches above the
ground.

For the skid plate to fit on the truck without modification, the oil pan
would have to reduced by at least 2 7/8 inches - The $200 1? inch reduction
isn't enough.

The KEP exhaust header on the truck is 9 inches off the ground. The $200 1?
inch reduction in the oil pan would make the bottom of the oil pan about the
same height as the exhaust 8? inches vs. 9 inches. (on the van it would be
8? in. vs. 8? in.). The skid plate, if mounted on the truck would be about
10 inches above the ground where the KEP exhaust header comes from 2&4
cylinders. This pipe is about 9 inches above the ground and the skid plate
wouldn't clear it.

IMHO:
- the $200 1? inch reduction is worth it because it brings the whole area
underneath to about the same clearance.
- the stock skid plate won't fit without modification but the risk of
off-roading without a skid plate is too high so something will have be done.

Larry

my engine is from a 94 liberty rs turbo , which in standard form here in
Australia were 149kw.

Please note that in Australia the Legacy is marketed as "Liberty". More
senseless badge-engineering. It's not as if there's another vehicle sold
there as Legacy.

I am having a problem locating motor mounts for my 90 Legacy 2.2
outside of the ($145 each side) dealership. Does anybody have a
source for used motor mounts? I have a 90 2.2 from an automatic 2-
wheel drive that uses the round liquid-filled rubberized mounts.
Please help.

Brian
87 Synchro GL
Suffolk, VA

PS Anybody near Suffolk, VA with a conversion (or in process)?

Well, remember that the Vanagon compressor has an electric clutch. I assume
that the Sub compressor (has an electric clutch too, right?) will have to be
mated properly to the Vanagon control electronics (same switching levels,
polarities etc) for it to work properly.

I suggest that before you pull apart the Sub compressor, you use a voltmeter
and measure the engage and release voltages on the compressor clutch, (and
actually, on the existing Vanagon compressor clutch, too!).

Then, it should be a simple matter for us Engineers to devise a voltage
translation circuit, if needed.

Otherwise, I cannot help but think that a compressor is a compressor. (But
that's really just a statement of ignorance, isn't it)

YMMV

Marshall Ruskin
Subagon-Interested

Hello

Last week I purchased a '92 Legacy 2.2 with both PS and AC. I also ordered
the KEP conversion kit. I would like to use the Subaru compressor to run

the

AC in my 87 Wolfy. The compressor on the Subaru engine looks rather small
compared to the one on my Vanagon.

Do the AC hoses in the van simply connect to the stock Subaru compressor?

Is

it that simple to connect? I realize the system will need to be converted
and serviced once it is connected.

Is there anyone in the Boston area who has done a conversion? I would like
to see one, if possible, before I actually start mine.

Thanks

Gary

Gary McEachern, Reading Ma.
'90 Westy (4 sp)
'84GL w/ Super Sunroof (for sale)
'87GL Wolfsburg Weekender (auto)
'75 Spitfire

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Hello

Last week I purchased a '92 Legacy 2.2 with both PS and AC. I also ordered the KEP conversion kit. I would like to use the Subaru compressor to run the AC in my 87 Wolfy. The compressor on the Subaru engine looks rather small compared to the one on my Vanagon.

Do the AC hoses in the van simply connect to the stock Subaru compressor? Is it that simple to connect? I realize the system will need to be converted and serviced once it is connected.

Is there anyone in the Boston area who has done a conversion? I would like to see one, if possible, before I actually start mine.

Thanks

Gary

Gary McEachern, Reading Ma.
'90 Westy (4 sp)
'84GL w/ Super Sunroof (for sale)
'87GL Wolfsburg Weekender (auto)
'75 Spitfire

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at

I had also wondered if, during the oil pan sectioning, the dip stick
could be modified to be available at the license plate flap.

The company that would do the shortening is located in Temeculah,
CA., which is just south of L.A and Riverside. It would be great if
they could see a Vanagon w/Subaru conversion to understand our
particular issues.

Anyone in that vicinity willing to drop in on them with their van??
Contact me for the address.

Warren Chapman
415-331-4830

Just a thought, but at the the time of sectioning the oil sump, if
they could rotate the lower half by 90 degrees, the dipstick would
aim
at the license plate flap on the rear side of the timing belt cover
making checking the oil far easier.

I have located a company which specializes in performance Subaru
engines for sandrail applications.

They will section (shorten) your oil pan 1.75 inches for a fee of
$200.00. This will reduce the oil capacity by one quart. IMHO with a
good synthetic oil and reasonable monitoring),that would be enough to
feel comfortable. (I have to measure if this is enough for Syncros.)

Thanks Warren. I am an interested candidate. I have a spare oil pan ready.
We have both a Syncro WBX with skid guard and a Syncro Urabus without. Over the weekend, I'll make some measurements to see if 1.75
inches will be enough.

It has been pointed out to me that the Subaru oil pump already has fittings ready for an external oil cooler: the two bolts pointing
downward. I had thought of simply adding an external oil reservoir to compensate for the reduced oil pan capacity. Any thoughts?

-Larry

What about adding an external oil cooler to increase capacity? Would that
make a difference, or, is the idea that you want more oil floating around in
the sump?

A reservoir would help for hi-rpm. For sidehills or hard cornering, you want a deep sump. For me, and likely any vanagon, the reservoir would be fine! Remember, these are vans, not SVX.

Tom
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| website:
| e-mail: TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+

What about adding an external oil cooler to increase capacity? Would that
make a difference, or, is the idea that you want more oil floating around in
the sump?

I think that would work fine except it would be difficult to drain all of the oil. Possibly an external, large capacity filter housing from a diesel truck, (with a filter either in place or not) would restore the original capacity.

A method to 'pre-fill' this reservoir prior to starting the engine after an oil change would be advisable.

Does anyone know if Subaru runs oil temp on the ragged edge of failure like a wasserboxer? If so, maybe an oil cooler would be the way to go

Tom
--
+------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349
| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
| website:
| e-mail: TomMyers@...
+------------------------------------+

I will send some pictures of the engine as soon as I have some time. the
engine has done 3000 km since install and with only one ongoing problem.
cold starts are difficult , I have to turn the ignition switch over 5 to 6
times before the motor starts. every time I turn the ignition the motor
puffs to start then stops until it eventually starts. (any help would be
great) . the motor has a standard turbo but with a lightened rotor for
quicker spool up. the exhaust is now fabricated out of 3 inch stainless
steel. tapered at the turbo to incorporate the wastegate flow. I run the
engine on what is called here premium unleaded , which is a high octane
fuel, economy is well !!! ok depending on how much fun I want to have . I
have calculated the maximum speed for the vehicle given the gearbox ratios
and maximum rpm would attain a speed of 226 km per hr. I have reached speeds
of 185 km with plenty more grunt and the engine still pulling very hard.

What about adding an external oil cooler to increase capacity? Would that
make a difference, or, is the idea that you want more oil floating around in
the sump?

A group purchase on the harness is also something I'd be interested in. Is
that possible with all the variations in Subaru wiring I've heard about?

Bravo to warren for checking into this.

Tim King
87 Sycnro
Seattle, WA