Re: '91 Westie with '07 Forester 2.5
Thanks much to everyone, Problem resolved.
About a month ago I had removed the instrument cluster to fix the odometer (little white gear had come off, didn't stay on long) and when I reinstalled it, seems I scrunched one pin on the connector to the blue foil circuit.? There must have been just enough contact for the alt light to still come on, although maybe slightly dimmer.? Not sure if it was shorting out but after replacing the pin, alternator is now in the 14.5 V range.?
One item we hadn't thought of, I have a complete solar system installed, along with a Renogy MPPT Battery Charger/Solar Controller.? They are great units, but with the ability of charging both house and starter batteries from solar, our thinking is the starter battery was always charged because of the solar setup.? Short trips never drained the starter battery enough to notice any difference.? It wasn't till I drove about an hour that things started failing.
Try searching theSamba forum threads with something like Subaru alternator low voltage. Here's one: ?
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Re: '91 Westie with '07 Forester 2.5
Try searching theSamba forum threads with something like Subaru alternator low voltage. Here's one: ?https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=744842&highlight=subaru+low+voltage+alternator
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Re: '91 Westie with '07 Forester 2.5
Blue /red sense wire goes to the battery post on alternator or to battery post on starter or to + post on battery (with 10 amp fuse like Subaru has it)
TRy running a ground wire to the alternator bracket. Maybe? your engine grounds (intake to frame or trans to frame) are inadequate.
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Re: '91 Westie with '07 Forester 2.5
It sounds like you aren¡¯t getting a proper signal to the wire that excites the electromagnet. This is wire #1 (black and white) on the green plug. This runs through the warning light and I believe something as simple as the light burning out will cause this to not function properly. Check to make sure this light is working.?
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Re: '91 Westie with '07 Forester 2.5
Forced retirement sort of gave us the time to do these fantastic trips, we're very fortunate.
Yes, it's been tested and was good.? Not the original but an upgrade, can't recall the make and can't check as it's at the garage being figured out.
Have you Tested the primary battery with a real load tester ? is it a ¡°upgrade¡± like OPTIMA or ??
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BTW . West coast BC? AND Newfoundland ?WOW .
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Hoping someone may have an idea, been working on this for a few days with little success, and of course we are supposed to be heading out for a 6 week trip across Labrador & Newfoundland.
Had the conversion done a year ago, everything was fantastic for last year's 12,000 km trip to the west coast of BC. (Should have done the conversion year's ago)
Couple days ago was heading to the garage for a minor upgrade, when things started to 'turn off', until the van was barely able to run, battery down to ~7V.? I have a battery switch to flip between vehicle and house battery, enabling me
to go the additional distance.
We have tried 4 different alternators, with the engine running all of them max 12.4 V.? Have unplugged the alternator cables so no load, still only about 12.4V.? Take them out of my van, install in another, and they go up to around 14.4V.??
Belt seems ok, cam shaft pulley also ok.
Do one of the 3 connectors on the one plug of the alternator provide some kind of V sensing where if it isn't connected or loose/corroded, so max the alternator puts out is around 12.4V?? If yes, where is the other end of that going?
Any other ideas or thoughts are much appreciated.
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Re: '91 Westie with '07 Forester 2.5
Have you Tested the primary battery with a real load tester ? is it a ¡°upgrade¡± like OPTIMA or ??
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BTW . West coast BC? AND Newfoundland ?WOW .
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of JoelLib via groups.io
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2025 10:01 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [SubaruVanagon] '91 Westie with '07 Forester 2.5
?
Hoping someone may have an idea, been working on this for a few days with little success, and of course we are supposed to be heading out for a 6 week trip across Labrador & Newfoundland.
Had the conversion done a year ago, everything was fantastic for last year's 12,000 km trip to the west coast of BC. (Should have done the conversion year's ago)
Couple days ago was heading to the garage for a minor upgrade, when things started to 'turn off', until the van was barely able to run, battery down to ~7V.? I have a battery switch to flip between vehicle and house battery, enabling me
to go the additional distance.
We have tried 4 different alternators, with the engine running all of them max 12.4 V.? Have unplugged the alternator cables so no load, still only about 12.4V.? Take them out of my van, install in another, and they go up to around 14.4V.??
Belt seems ok, cam shaft pulley also ok.
Do one of the 3 connectors on the one plug of the alternator provide some kind of V sensing where if it isn't connected or loose/corroded, so max the alternator puts out is around 12.4V?? If yes, where is the other end of that going?
Any other ideas or thoughts are much appreciated.
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'91 Westie with '07 Forester 2.5
Hello all, Hoping someone may have an idea, been working on this for a few days with little success, and of course we are supposed to be heading out for a 6 week trip across Labrador & Newfoundland.
Had the conversion done a year ago, everything was fantastic for last year's 12,000 km trip to the west coast of BC. (Should have done the conversion year's ago)
Couple days ago was heading to the garage for a minor upgrade, when things started to 'turn off', until the van was barely able to run, battery down to ~7V.? I have a battery switch to flip between vehicle and house battery, enabling me to go the additional distance.
We have tried 4 different alternators, with the engine running all of them max 12.4 V.? Have unplugged the alternator cables so no load, still only about 12.4V.? Take them out of my van, install in another, and they go up to around 14.4V.??
Belt seems ok, cam shaft pulley also ok.
Do one of the 3 connectors on the one plug of the alternator provide some kind of V sensing where if it isn't connected or loose/corroded, so max the alternator puts out is around 12.4V?? If yes, where is the other end of that going?
Any other ideas or thoughts are much appreciated.
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To the best of my knowledge, the ab sensors are usually taken care of with a custom interface board made by one of them common converters here on the list. I think GoWesty Rockymountainwesty and Van ventures. (Jeff R). Mine is a small car version one and works in Arizona. However, this year I opted for historic plates in skipping emissions every year..
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On May 12, 2025, at 6:36?PM, Gary Helbig via groups.io <gwh611@...> wrote:
? I hired a shop in Northern California to do my conversion.? I'm in Reno, NV - they were the closest, and they claimed to know how to get the OBD-II working.
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After a year and a half - it's not done - the EVAP sensors are not working.
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Is there someone that can provide guidance on how to get this working?? Or some shop that can actually do the job?
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Please help,
Gary.
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Re: gas tank emissions monitor isn't setting
Unfortunately I don¡¯t know anyone in Reno who can pull that off, it¡¯s going to be a challenge. The easiest way would be to pick a California compliant swap since NV will honor any of those, but sounds like you¡¯re committed to the current setup at this point.?
You¡¯re correct, you¡¯re limited to 5,000 miles a year with classic plates, which is all self reported mileage. I travel quite a bit in ours and have yet to surpass the 5k mile annual limit, but I have another car I daily drive. But we¡¯ve made trips from Reno to Canada and the like, the biggest was a loop of the entire western US last year and that came in at about 4500 miles. But if you plan on exceeding 5000 miles a year it won¡¯t be an option. ?
If you¡¯ve paid the shop, you might have a valid case to get money back or have a complaint with the California bureau of automotive repair if they are unable to finish and refuse to refund you in part.?
So I guess I didn¡¯t answer your question, as I don¡¯t know anyone here that¡¯ll be able to get you squared away. Hopefully someone can chime in with a shop in Cali that has pulled off an OBD2 Subaru swap and maintained all of the OBD2 emissions components.?
I also know there are brokers who will register your car for you in states that do not require smog, but that most likely be illegal.?
Good luck!
Connor
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On May 12, 2025, at 7:50?PM, Gary Helbig via groups.io <gwh611@...> wrote:
? I've been told that 'Historical Vehicle' plates aren't suitable for RV's because of the annual mileage limits.
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What I'm hearing from the inspection station in Sparks is that they want to OBD-II scan it and get an "all good" response.
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Part of my problem is that I've already paid for it - and now finding out that they can't do it.
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The other part of my problem is that they've spent a year and a half trying to do it.? (Did I mention that I've already paid for it?)
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So yes, I want the problem addressed.? If you know of a "can do" person or shop, I'm all ears.
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Gary.
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Re: gas tank emissions monitor isn't setting
I've been told that 'Historical Vehicle' plates aren't suitable for RV's because of the annual mileage limits.
?
What I'm hearing from the inspection station in Sparks is that they want to OBD-II scan it and get an "all good" response.
?
Part of my problem is that I've already paid for it - and now finding out that they can't do it.
?
The other part of my problem is that they've spent a year and a half trying to do it.? (Did I mention that I've already paid for it?)
?
So yes, I want the problem addressed.? If you know of a "can do" person or shop, I'm all ears.
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Gary.
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Black is ign ON and red/black is starter signal for late model van.
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Edit: 7pin round connector in black box on firewall
T7a/1 Blue/Black 0.3 bar oil pressure switch
T7a/2 Yellow/Red coolant temperature
T7a/3 Gray - coolant level
T7a/4 Brown - coolant level
T7a/5 Green Tachometer
T7a/6 Red/Black Starter crank
T7a/7 Yellow 0.9 bar oil pressure switch
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Sounds good, You are a life saver! Much appreciated.
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Yes ignition ON (key ON) 135-7 and starter switch 135 -28 (12v when cranking) are different. If you don't know which wires they are you need to test with a 12v test light or multimeter. The neutral switch pin should be grounded. Constant battery power and ignition (Key ON) power should be fused (15 amp and 10 amp respectively)
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Thanks for this! I had a feeling I didnt have it quite right.
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Just to clarify?
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B135-7 Green/Red (Ignition controlled 12v) will connect to that grey wire with the yellow connector in the box?
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B135-26 White/Black (Neutral Switch)- I currently have it cut short at the ECU. This is a MT so I was just going to leave it disconnected, is that right?
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B135-28 White/Blue ( ignition switch "start" )- Where do I connect this to?
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B136-9 Black/Red? (Constant Hot connection)- Have this one sorted out, connected to stud in box
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Any help would be appreciated, thanks for chiming in.
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Late to the party? also i think there was a misunderstanding happening?
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i would connect both.
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B135-7 ? (Green / Red) goes to the ignition switch "run"
B135-26 (White / Black) goes through a neutral switch (closed when in neutral??) to a ground
B135-28 (White / Blue) goes to the ignition switch "start"
B136-9?? (Black / Red) Goes to the battery (constant power)
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The Start signal is needed, since it will help the engine start by tell it go into a "starting" parameter so-to-speak
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Thanks Wayne.
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So based on that I will splice the Ignition Switch B135 Pin 7 into that at the black box4. Thanks for the clarification!
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Ill cut that "Starter Switch" short and leave it in the bundle.
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Thanks again.
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Ryan
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You need ignition start signal to the ECU which I did to the VW wire in the black box and you need it to go the solenoid on the starter. I connected in the black box and used the VW start wire to the solenoid.
On my 02 2.5L? harness, the wire going to the ECU had a bigger gauge double splice coming off it, I think one would go to ignition Switch and the other to the starter solenoid.
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Hey all,?
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I am building a harness from a 2002 Forester. I have all of the wiring diagrams and pinout for this year.?
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I am confused on which "starter" wire to leave in the bundle.
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For the "box", I have the following:
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12V Hot to stud in box
12v Ignition 12v
Oil Pressure
Water Temperature
CEL
Tach
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Now here is my issue.. Do I need a starter signal? I think I remember I needed one on the last harness I made.. just cant remember..
I see "Starter Switch" ( B135 Pin 28)on the ECU Pinout which wants 8-14 Volts during cranking OR a "Ignition Switch" (B135 Pin 7)
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Do I need one of these connected anywhere else? Also, do you see anything else on my list that is missing?
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Thanks
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Ryan
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Looks like single heater return but not stock plumbing. Need a wider view.
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Here's the fitting...so not sure which you would call this? Jim
What water pump do you have?? The 2.5 has a single heater return fitting. The OE 2003 2.0 turbo has 3 fittings.
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Dr Mark
