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Re: Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion

Luke Bakken
 

I did that when I had Daryl @ aatransaxle rebuild my syncro
transmission a couple years ago. I run BFG AT K/O 215/75R15 tires as
well. I get 20 to 21 mpg when I keep it at 55 to 60 mph. '03 EJ25.

There's a pretty big gap between 2nd and 3rd gear, but I like the
change. Others on this group have said they prefer stock.

On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 9:00 AM, surfervan91 <tomdueck@...> wrote:
Hello everyone, I'm a newbie here with my first question. ?I'm about to sink a 2.5L SOHC Subaru into my '91 Westfalia. ?I've been reading about some people recommending that it's best to regear 3rd and 4th in my Westy tranny to accommodate the new engine. ?What are people's thoughts on the pros and cons or even the necessity of doing this?


Regearing 3rd & 4th gear after conversion

surfervan91
 

Hello everyone, I'm a newbie here with my first question. I'm about to sink a 2.5L SOHC Subaru into my '91 Westfalia. I've been reading about some people recommending that it's best to regear 3rd and 4th in my Westy tranny to accommodate the new engine. What are people's thoughts on the pros and cons or even the necessity of doing this?


Re: No start problem

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

the way I remember which way they go is ..
it would be logical, in my mind, to have the forward one ( toward the
front of the van ) be the feed,
and the aftward line the return.

it's opposite of that.

On 4/15/2012 7:04 AM, Paul wrote:

fuel lines appear to correctly connected, but thanks for the
suggestion...Paul.

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, Claudio Ruzzai
<claudioruzzai@...> wrote:

Hi,check if the fuel line , return and feed , are swaped???
claudio




Hesitation and poor idle problem fixed

 

I had a hesitation problem that I finally fixed this weekend on my 86 Syncro with 96 2.2 OBD II Engine and I wanted to share in case anyone else has the same problem. It all started when I started getting a hesitation at about 3000 rpm, any gear, then it started to idle poorly (start fine, then idle bad after a few seconds). I found that my Small Car ("The last header you'll ever need") header had cracked in several places, surprise! So I bought a header from Stan's Header and had Ballard Muffler in Seattle (I can't speak highly enough about those guys) do some welding on the J Pipe. I bought a new O2 sensor and put it all together. Dang it if the problem persisted, even got worse (now it died randomly at stop lights). I inspected the VSS, pulled the codes and found nothing unsual. Decided to swap out the plugs and wires as a matter of elimination and viola!! problem fixed. It looked like one of the plugs was fouled. I am not enough of a mechanic to know if the exhaust leak caused the plug to foul but I also don't believe in coincidences. Anyway I hope this helps someone else. Cheers!


Re: Cat 02 sensor

 

As far as I know, they are not directional.

I did exactly what you are talking about when I installed my OBDII EJ22. I put one bung in the j-pipe, and the other was in the cat.

If you are looking for an inexpenzsive cat, check out Summit Racing and look for the MPE-53034...about $77 and free shipping. Mind you, it isnt legal for all states, so take that into account for your purchase if you are in a CARB controlled area or CA.

HTH

Gavin

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "enerdome" <earthshelterman@...> wrote:

putting 2.2 in an 85 Westy using small car header. one 02 sensor goes in the J pipe (upstream), and one after the catalytic converter. can I mount the catalytic converter so the 02 bung is after the cat (downstream), or are the converters directional.I am looking to avoid the code that would be produced if I eliminated the downstream. thanks


Cat 02 sensor

enerdome
 

putting 2.2 in an 85 Westy using small car header. one 02 sensor goes in the J pipe (upstream), and one after the catalytic converter. can I mount the catalytic converter so the 02 bung is after the cat (downstream), or are the converters directional.I am looking to avoid the code that would be produced if I eliminated the downstream. thanks


Re: No start problem

 

Claudio.... a HUGE thank you for your repeated suggestion, I was adamant that I had it right, but no, I had reversed the fuel supply and return lines. DOH! Cheers mate. Paul.
....and thanks to the other posters for their suggestions.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "claudio" <claudioruzzai@...> wrote:



--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Paul" <pfetherston@> wrote:

Older 1990 EJ22 conversion, fifth time for the engine out for various reasons, on replacement always starts right up, but not today, I have spark, fuel pressure to engine, and tested an injector lead with a noid light, seems fine. Spark plugs look dry, no smell of gas from the tailpipe, and no gas from the fuel return line.

Hi, Paul, you are missing something here, you say fuell presure is OK?
and no fuel is coming out of return line?? or you dont have fuel presure or your fuel lines are pluged? you need to recheck it.
claudio


Re: 99' 2.2 timing marks

 

Todd, sorry you say 99 ej22, I have the book for a 92,.I will see
tomorrow at my work if Ican get photos of the 99.
and I mail you back to you.
Claudio

On 4/15/2012 8:46 PM, Todd Schroder wrote:

Cluadio,Thank you very much, but I guess I still have the same
question because when I do use the white slash marks on the new timing
belt they are 47 teeth from center (the center white slash on the belt
itself) on the left and 44 teeth from center on the right.
I am using all of the correct alignment marks per you pics and Tom
Shiels site but the teeth do not make sense to me, although it all
looks correct.What am I missing here?
Thank you againTodd.




Re: 99' 2.2 timing marks

 

Cluadio,Thank you very much, but I guess I still have the same question because when I do use the white slash marks on the new timing belt they are 47 teeth from center (the center white slash on the belt itself) on the left and 44 teeth from center on the right.?
I am using all of the correct alignment marks per you pics and Tom Shiels site but the teeth do not make sense to me, although it all looks correct.What am I missing here?
Thank you againTodd.


Re: 99' 2.2 timing marks

 

Todd, use the line stamped on the new belt to line up whit the mark on
the cam gears and crank gear.
the 40 t. in on bank one or driver side of the vanagon.
I will mail some photos to your mail.in minute
Claudio


99' 2.2 timing marks

 

Hi all,
I know this has been covered but after a lot of reading and rechecking myself I still have questions.

I know that I am using the correct crank marks (thank you Tom for the tutorial on you site), it's the teeth counting that has me caught.

when counting the teeth between marks that are on my new belt (I am referring to the marks on the belt itself I get 47 teeth from center to the left marking and 44 when counting from center to the right marking.
When I had the new belt on the engine and was counting the actual teeth from crank to cam gear I was also getting 47/44 (Right/left side respectively.

-Does the 44(left) and 40.5 (right) still apply to this year 2.2?

-last my engine cover on my 99 does not have a rear part on the left side like it does on the right. The right has a timing mark on the cover, is there a mark on the head or the block I should be looking for on the right side? ( I did mark the right side myself prior to removing the belt, but as I said I am now questioning myself a bit)

Thank you all for your help.
Todd.


Code 22 (knock sensor)

 

Hi, people, I have a code 22 and I need some help.
Is a 92 ej22.
On page 65 of the subaru repair manual.
1) ign. sw. ON
2)Voltage between ECU connector terminal and Body.
(connector B127, pin # 5 and Ground) 3 to 4 volts.
This is the white wire from the ECU to the knock sensor, well, I have 7.5 volt.
Van anybody verify in your engine, and tell me is the voltage is right on the book?
Because is 7.5 volt is wrong , I need a new ECU! is my thinking right?
Also I check ohm reading between the sensor and ground, it read 0.556 M.
I have an spare sensor and read the same value.
Many thank in advance....
Claudio


Re: No start problem

 

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Paul" <pfetherston@...> wrote:

Older 1990 EJ22 conversion, fifth time for the engine out for various reasons, on replacement always starts right up, but not today, I have spark, fuel pressure to engine, and tested an injector lead with a noid light, seems fine. Spark plugs look dry, no smell of gas from the tailpipe, and no gas from the fuel return line.

Hi, Paul, you are missing something here, you say fuell presure is OK?
and no fuel is coming out of return line?? or you dont have fuel presure or your fuel lines are pluged? you need to recheck it.
claudio


Re: No start problem

 

Thanks for these suggestions, will do, I forgotten so much about the conversion, as it has run so well for so many years. I'll check these and report back.
Thanks Paul.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Joe Baker <joeb@...> wrote:

Also, check for spark, fuel, crank cam
Sensors, also read codes.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 14, 2012, at 10:14 PM, Claudio Ruzzai <claudioruzzai@...> wrote:

Hi,check if the fuel line , return and feed , are swaped???
claudio

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Re: No start problem

Joe Baker
 

Also, check for spark, fuel, crank cam
Sensors, also read codes.

On Apr 14, 2012, at 10:14 PM, Claudio Ruzzai <claudioruzzai@...> wrote:

Hi,check if the fuel line , return and feed , are swaped???
claudio




Re: No start problem

Joe Baker
 

Check your in line fuses in your wire harness..

On Apr 15, 2012, at 7:04 AM, "Paul" <pfetherston@...> wrote:

fuel lines appear to correctly connected, but thanks for the suggestion...Paul.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Claudio Ruzzai <claudioruzzai@...> wrote:

Hi,check if the fuel line , return and feed , are swaped???
claudio


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: No start problem

 

fuel lines appear to correctly connected, but thanks for the suggestion...Paul.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Claudio Ruzzai <claudioruzzai@...> wrote:

Hi,check if the fuel line , return and feed , are swaped???
claudio




Re: 95' EJ25 DOHC 's Oil cooler size

 

Thank you for your very kind words , jcl.

Upgrading oil pump's size is a good advice. I would see for local supplier.


Sent from iPhone

On 15 ??.?. 2555, at 8:29, "a914622" <a914622@...> wrote:

On my vw turbo diesel ,with the same type of oil/water cooler, I would see oil temps in the 250-290 degf on long pulls under boost, and the pressure would drop to 25lbs.

With the external cooler and Volvo plate it might get to 200 on a hot day(+100 deg f) but only for about a minute.most of the time the oil is at 185-190 and pressure holds at 45-50lbs.

The other thing you could do is update the oil pump to a 10mm or the 11mm pump found on the later 2.5's.The extra volume may help when the oil gets hot and thin.
OR add a cooler from the water pump to the oilcooler?.

I have to say even with the problem you are a lucky man to be driving a vanagon in one of the most beautiful places on the planet!!

jcl


--- In subaruvanagon@..., Hanniboon Boon <hanniboon@...> wrote:

Thank you , Scott,

Most of subygon in Thailand installed with simple reversed water manifold , but instead of heater circuit , we replace with LPG 's heat exchanger.

Many people here already replace new rad core. Better but problem still exist , warm coolant but very hot oil.

Google researching about adding external oil cooling ( oil to air exchanger ) tell me that it can reduce only a few degree , which might not worth its cost.

However , I ll try to run on pure gasoline and shutting off the heater 's circuit to see any difference.

I will report soon

Happy Thai 's new year ( SongKran Splash Festival )

Sent from iPhone

On 13 ¨¤?€¨¤??.¨¤??. 2555, at 4:04, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:

Hi
for whatever it's worth..
I don't think any amount of oil cooler will make much of a difference in
EJ35 coolant cooling.

Some factors ...
one, if the radiator is pretty old ..it's due. The only failure mode I
ever see in these radiators is they just fail to remove heat well
eventually.
( or course there are tricks like other radiators that are bigger,
have more rows of tubes and fins etc. )

Make *sure* the cooling system layout is correct. I use a minor
variation of the basic Kennedy ( KEP ) system..works just fine for me on
every conversion.
Make sure the coolant is going through the radiator the correct direction !

Sometimes, to increase initial circulation I will drill a small hole on
the edge of the thermostat. That doesn't really improve cooling on the
hot end of things of course.

Don't run a really hot thermostat of course.

And use Water Wetter ..
it actually works...and is standard in all Vanagon work that I do
.........especially in the warm months.

Scott
www.turbovans.com

On 4/12/2012 4:21 AM, Hanniboon Boon wrote:

Thanks guy,

I just wonder that why many of my friend's suby having overheat and
head problems in this very hot tropical weather. Adding some oil
cooler may necessary.

Sent from iPhone

On 12 ¨¤?€¨¤??.¨¤??. 2555, at 9:21, "a914622" <a914622@...
<mailto:a914622%40yahoo.com>> wrote:

I have used the thermal plate out of a Volvo 740 turbo and plumed
the external oil cooler. The thermal plate bolts up were the stock
subaru water/oil cooler sits. It opens at 95c and cools the oil. There
were early subaru turbos that used the water/oil cooler, the problem
is they dont work quick enough to cool the oil under boost or in your
case under load.
There are some thermal plate being marketed at the wrx crowd. do a
google search.

The svx i have didnt have anything but the filter,but its getting an
external cooler.

jcl

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, Hanniboon Boon
<hanniboon@> wrote:

Hi,

We live in Thailand and there are many of us , T3 EJ25 , have the
same problem - the engine's head and overheating.

That make me wonder that the heat exchanger ( oil cooler ) was too
small.

I installed the oil-temp-guage to my 95' EJ25 n/a and I ve seen
that oil temp went above 110C ( 230F ) but the VW 's water temp
display so low , under the led. This always happen when drive in high
speed , 4000+ rpm.

This water temp gauge fools the driver that the engine still fine
, but it is not.

So I wonder that maybe subaru use the same size of oil cooler
inside both 22 and 25 n/a. And the bigger one in newer engine.

Sent from iPhone

On 3 ? ?????? ????.? ????. 2555, at 21:17, Brent Weide <brent.weide@> wrote:

Hanniboon:
You are talking about the oil cooler that spins into the spot
between
the oil filter and engine case, yes?
Not too many of the USDM engines have the coolers that I've worked
with. I installed a Forester (2004) that had the oil cooler which I
removed because I couldn't easily find a way to plumb the coolant
lines without interfering with the smallcar engine carrier.
The oil coolers for impreza 2.5's that i've seen have been
around 77mm
in diameter by 42mm in depth. Not sure about svx's or ej22's.
all the best,
Brent
--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/


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Re: Sealant recommendation

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

here's what I do ..
for a water pump o-ring/ gasket ..
I use either Toyota Black silicone sealant.........or The Right Stuff.
Light coat on on both sides.

for paper water pump gaskets ( doesn't' sound very subaru to me ) I put
Permatex High Tack red brush-on gasket sealer on both sides of a paper
gasket.

on an oil pump 0-ring I 'might' spray a very thin coat of Permatex High
Tack gasket sealer on an o-ring ..from a spray can..
if a real gasket ..
thin coat of either of the above sealants on both sides of the gasket.
Sparingly .

On 4/14/2012 6:08 PM, Matt wrote:

So I'm getting my EJ22 ready and will be installing a new water pump
and replacing the little O-ring at the oil pump. I know the water pump
uses a gasket but is any sealant recommended. Also what is the
recommended sealant to be used at the oil pump?

Thanks,
Matt


Re: High oil consumption

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

what year is the engine ?
90's are known for an oil problem.

it can happen to other years too.
I know of a 93' EJ22 right now that uses oil..
no real leaks, no smoking ..just 'likes oil'

I would be interested to see if new rings help you.
The pistons come off the rods once the heads are removed I believe.
I am not sure subaru engines can respond to new rings ..
please give it a shot and let us know how it works out.
thnx.
scott

On 4/14/2012 9:09 AM, chuck wrote:

Hello all
I have an EJ22 that is using a lot of oil. Runs great,seems to have
plenty of power, no smoke but uses a least 1 quart of oil every
500-600 miles.
I do not know the history,other then I was told the heads have been
replaced,timing belts. The odmeter reads 157000 miles.
The main question I have is Can the pistons be remove via the oil
pan,(with out splitting the case). I was thinking of replacing the
piston rings.
I will be thankful for any ideas.
Chuck